Well when you start work at 7, it's the only option!
Bit of a stretch and im alright.. Not crisp, but alright
got down to a section of trigg at bout 8am to see some guy getting shacked on a very nice hollow wave as i got to the shoreline. that is enough to get any surfer super stoked, so i bolted into the lineup. wasn't as good as that for much of the session, but there were some nice (short) hollow waves around if you were patient.
the wind went cross-shore at about 9.30, so that cut a fun session short. ![]()
Looks like a glassy morning with waves a bit smaller along the stretch. Worth the paddle out unless you're like me and did your knee yesterday. Fingers crossed physio says I haven't done anything major!
How good was this morning! Very few out and a light offshore with a two and a half metre rising swell. There were some bombs coming through at Trigg, head and a half on the sets and really clean.
Couldn't be bothered with the extra drive so jumped in at Mulla. But shallow and duck diving ripped out my rear fin![]()
Won't be ready till next weekend either..
Big bloody seal was hanging around me and another guy giving us the sh-ts too. When they sit about a meter from you and dive in at you under the water **** those front dog teeth look big![]()
yeah, swell had a bit of kick in it this morning
just went to local northern reef break, rocks pocking out
Week turn around seems a bit long, i've repaired 4 plugs in a day and been out the next afternoon, worth ringing around if your getting someone to do it for you...
^^^
Sorry to see that you've busted your board JB... was there any banks there? How was the northern end? Weed?
Yeah - I'd probably just head to Katana and look at his S/H rack and buy something... I HATE waiting for board repairs so mostly do my own - but I'd have that one done properly.
Nah it was just a indo winged fin. Actually i did like what it did to the board. I had it in at Trigg on Monday morning and i found it gave me more pace( i think ) and the board moved rail to rail better. (May have just been bigger waves than Mulla)
But i was enjoying it.
This morning i found of the bottom and trying to snap of the top a little harder and i got the feeling it was never gone a happen but i'm not sure if that's the board, the fin or me![]()
I will grab my old Rusty board. Its 6'6" and a lot thinner so paddling will be not as much fun but it used to fly for me. (when 20 kilos lighter) Big night for me tonight but maybe tomorrow morning. I am keen to progress but finding board choice just too hard. There's way more choice these days and i think i will maybe get one built. My board is at Ocean line and they seem good. Will see how the repair works out.
Never heard of the Indo winged fin, is it like the red tip? Or is it more like the winged fin/keel set up like Horans boards?
The Point had weed and the rest wasn't that bad. Actually the bombie was breaking occasionally so was fun. Fair bit of back wash and the old two step waves that piss me of but, a little fun. Mostly the bigger ones just dropped so take and and get swallowed
Oh and shallow![]()
Yeah - it can 'double face' there badly when shallow - and can really bugger up your wave count some days... and I've been ground into the sand a couple of times there... even up at the point it can get very shallow...
...bloody weed - I'm sick of it!
Just had a quick 'night' surf at Cott...some faaaairly good ones rolling in if you didn't mind getting ****ed up all over the shore.
Desperate times...
I went for a quick flick off the rocks at Cott for some herring or skippy...saw decent waves so grabbed the board instead. Sun was down though so didn't stay in too long. Warm water though ![]()
Well I must be getting old and picky...
Drove from north Mullaloo to Port beach and back stopping at various places along the way... lots of rips, backwash, exposed reef and WEED!
If you were 13yo grom Leighton had a small clean waist high wave... too much of a close-out for me to bother...