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Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

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Created by doggie > 9 months ago, 23 Apr 2010
doggie
WA, 15849 posts
27 Sep 2011 4:53PM
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subasurf said...

I made the mistake this morning of giving Trigg a go.
Talk about a humbling experience...a tiring one too...uuuurgh.


Did you get belted?

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
27 Sep 2011 5:06PM
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The paddle out took forever, got pummeled on the way out by what felt like an endless surge of wash (never seamed to be a lull) and then waited for ages for a wave I could actually paddle into...hahaha.
Finally got one and it was fairly sizable, only managed a few turns before it assploaded me all over a rock (cracked the rail on the board)...then tried again to get back out...too tiring...got smashed, leash came undone, board washed in and I had a nice little swim to get back in. Beach patrol guy was slightly concerned hahaha!

Good times

In all fairness, I surfed for about 6 hours yesterday and every day for the last week and I think my arms have had it. No rest to be had though...Secrets is looking tempting for an early one tomorrow.

Zuke
901 posts
27 Sep 2011 5:36PM
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smicko said...

North. Thursday through Sunday looks like it'll be alright up that way too.


I thought it looked familiar. I used to camp up that way a lot in the 80's and early 90's. It's a bit hit and miss but at least there's plenty of km's of beaches to check out. Only needs about 1.5 metres of swell, great in summer.

Zuke
901 posts
27 Sep 2011 5:38PM
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subasurf said...

I made the mistake this morning of giving Trigg a go.
Talk about a humbling experience...a tiring one too...uuuurgh.


What time were you there? I didn't see anyone else in the water when I was there this morning. There was a bit of size with the sets.

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
27 Sep 2011 5:59PM
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Probably in the water just after 8am mate.
Went out at the cafe and drifted down to 2nds.

A lot of effort for one ride...but I try to look at it as an optimist
Any time I make it back safely in heavy conditions I consider it a good fitness training session.
Makes those heavy sessions down south just that little bit easier.

Zuke
901 posts
27 Sep 2011 6:29PM
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Yes it's great for fitness. I left at 7.30.

trevor1
WA, 598 posts
27 Sep 2011 10:16PM
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subasurf said...

The paddle out took forever, got pummeled on the way out by what felt like an endless surge of wash (never seamed to be a lull) and then waited for ages for a wave I could actually paddle into...hahaha.
Finally got one and it was fairly sizable, only managed a few turns before it assploaded me all over a rock (cracked the rail on the board)...then tried again to get back out...too tiring...got smashed, leash came undone, board washed in and I had a nice little swim to get back in. Beach patrol guy was slightly concerned hahaha!

Good times

In all fairness, I surfed for about 6 hours yesterday and every day for the last week and I think my arms have had it. No rest to be had though...Secrets is looking tempting for an early one tomorrow.

What rock?
What rock)


trevor1
WA, 598 posts
27 Sep 2011 10:18PM
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Quoting above not really working ...

But in response to supasurf's post:

"what rock?"

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
27 Sep 2011 10:59PM
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Not sure exactly what you're asking?
There's plenty of rocks between the cafe and 2nds. There's about 6 signs on the beach clearing pointing them out.

I put myself out of the water for a solid week after landing on my knee on one near the start of the year.

Zuke
901 posts
28 Sep 2011 9:20AM
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This morning was good. Clean swell and some really good waves at Trigg. Much cleaner than I thought it would be after yesterdays onshore.

12 out at Toms and no one else until 2nd's at Trigg. Plenty of good waves going unridden this morning.

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
28 Sep 2011 10:32AM
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Zuke said...

This morning was good. Clean swell and some really good waves at Trigg. Much cleaner than I thought it would be after yesterdays onshore.

12 out at Toms and no one else until 2nd's at Trigg. Plenty of good waves going unridden this morning.


Good to hear

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
28 Sep 2011 1:25PM
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Ventured down to Secrets this morning. Lineup was almost empty and I had at least 80 metres between me and the nearest surfer.
Some real quality waves rolling through...I surfed like an absolute kook (just way too exhausted) but got lucky and managed a left tube ride (crouching) to start the sesh

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
28 Sep 2011 5:56PM
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Oh I had a fun day. Bit of travel but FUN!!!

Zuke
901 posts
28 Sep 2011 6:35PM
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smicko said...

Oh I had a fun day. Bit of travel but FUN!!!


Where and any Pics?

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
28 Sep 2011 7:41PM
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^
That!

Oh...and looks like I'm not getting my rest day tomorrow...back out again to secrets in the morning...

It's a tough life.

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
28 Sep 2011 8:17PM
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Not gettin any pics out of me on this one boys. Offshore, waist to chest high 100m+ little rights with two of us out.

swalkington
WA, 401 posts
28 Sep 2011 9:24PM
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subasurf said...

Ventured down to Secrets this morning. Lineup was almost empty and I had at least 80 metres between me and the nearest surfer.
Some real quality waves rolling through...I surfed like an absolute kook (just way too exhausted) but got lucky and managed a left tube ride (crouching) to start the sesh


Thanks for letting everyone know it was uncrowded. May as well send a personal invite to the hoards !!

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
28 Sep 2011 10:46PM
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my bad...

Sham1984
VIC, 415 posts
29 Sep 2011 12:37PM
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barely anyone out this morning.. no swell either but some glassy waist high sets came through so plenty of fun! had a nice peak to myself for about 2 hours before work!

default
WA, 1255 posts
29 Sep 2011 11:32AM
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smicko said...

Not gettin any pics out of me on this one boys. Offshore, waist to chest high 100m+ little rights with two of us out.


wtf?...are you dreaming?

surferstu
1011 posts
29 Sep 2011 3:00PM
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swalkington said...

subasurf said...

Ventured down to Secrets this morning. Lineup was almost empty and I had at least 80 metres between me and the nearest surfer.
Some real quality waves rolling through...I surfed like an absolute kook (just way too exhausted) but got lucky and managed a left tube ride (crouching) to start the sesh


Thanks for letting everyone know it was uncrowded. May as well send a personal invite to the hoards !!


agreed, noone likes crowds so why anyone would encourage more crew to turn up is crazy.

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
29 Sep 2011 3:15PM
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swalkington said...

subasurf said...

Ventured down to Secrets this morning. Lineup was almost empty and I had at least 80 metres between me and the nearest surfer.
Some real quality waves rolling through...I surfed like an absolute kook (just way too exhausted) but got lucky and managed a left tube ride (crouching) to start the sesh


Thanks for letting everyone know it was uncrowded. May as well send a personal invite to the hoards !!


Yea while they are all at work

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
29 Sep 2011 3:44PM
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These boards are frequented by like minded blokes and i can't see i reference hear and there making a big difference to the surf crowding...

It ain't no conspiracy..The hole idea of this thread is to share a little info FFS.

newguy
654 posts
29 Sep 2011 4:06PM
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In that case, it was so crowded this morning. Even dolphins had rocked up to take on the oldies on minimals. I strongly suggest everyone to not turn up tomorrow as it will probably be the same. Further more the ocean was basically flat with the occasional dumping wave

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
29 Sep 2011 5:05PM
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Well...Secrets was 5hithouse this morning.
Nice weather at least...

Legion
WA, 2222 posts
30 Sep 2011 1:26AM
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jbshack said...

These boards are frequented by like minded blokes and i can't see i reference hear and there making a big difference to the surf crowding...

It ain't no conspiracy..The hole idea of this thread is to share a little info FFS.

It's not the forum members you have to worry about, it's the dozens or more who aren't logged in or aren't members who just read anonymously. There's no login requirement and it's a public forum. If it were private it might not matter so much.

default
WA, 1255 posts
30 Sep 2011 9:24AM
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subasurf said...

Well...Secrets was 5hithouse this morning.


lol, nice come back

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
30 Sep 2011 10:15AM
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haha well it was the truth
There was one guy managing insane rides on what were barely even ripples...don't know how he managed to get so much speed from nothing.

Almost everyone else was on longboards. There was even a SUPer.
When there's SUPers at Secrets you know it's bad

Oh and yeah, sorry again. Don't know what I was thinking with my other post.
Silly indeed.

GPA
WA, 2528 posts
30 Sep 2011 12:46PM
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Just checked the Scarb cam - trying to plan my day tomorrow - watch the GF with two teams I care less about - or look for an uncrowded surf...

Anyways... Scarborough looks about 6 inches and the only person I saw on two runs of the cam was a sole SUPer.

GROAN!

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
30 Sep 2011 1:29PM
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default said...

smicko said...

Not gettin any pics out of me on this one boys. Offshore, waist to chest high 100m+ little rights with two of us out.


wtf?...are you dreaming?


Nope, gotta think outside the square. There's lots of little nooks and crannies along our coast that are offshore in an onshore.



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"Legions surf report :: Daily updates.." started by doggie