The paddle out took forever, got pummeled on the way out by what felt like an endless surge of wash (never seamed to be a lull) and then waited for ages for a wave I could actually paddle into...hahaha.
Finally got one and it was fairly sizable, only managed a few turns before it assploaded me all over a rock (cracked the rail on the board)...then tried again to get back out...too tiring...got smashed, leash came undone, board washed in and I had a nice little swim to get back in. Beach patrol guy was slightly concerned hahaha!
Good times ![]()
In all fairness, I surfed for about 6 hours yesterday and every day for the last week and I think my arms have had it. No rest to be had though...Secrets is looking tempting for an early one tomorrow. ![]()
Probably in the water just after 8am mate.
Went out at the cafe and drifted down to 2nds.
A lot of effort for one ride...but I try to look at it as an optimist
Any time I make it back safely in heavy conditions I consider it a good fitness training session.
Makes those heavy sessions down south just that little bit easier.
Not sure exactly what you're asking? ![]()
There's plenty of rocks between the cafe and 2nds. There's about 6 signs on the beach clearing pointing them out.
I put myself out of the water for a solid week after landing on my knee on one near the start of the year.
This morning was good. Clean swell and some really good waves at Trigg. Much cleaner than I thought it would be after yesterdays onshore.
12 out at Toms and no one else until 2nd's at Trigg. Plenty of good waves going unridden this morning.
Ventured down to Secrets this morning. Lineup was almost empty and I had at least 80 metres between me and the nearest surfer.
Some real quality waves rolling through...I surfed like an absolute kook (just way too exhausted) but got lucky and managed a left tube ride (crouching) to start the sesh ![]()
^
That!
Oh...and looks like I'm not getting my rest day tomorrow...back out again to secrets in the morning...
It's a tough life.
Not gettin any pics out of me on this one boys. Offshore, waist to chest high 100m+ little rights with two of us out.
barely anyone out this morning.. no swell either but some glassy waist high sets came through so plenty of fun! had a nice peak to myself for about 2 hours before work!
These boards are frequented by like minded blokes and i can't see i reference hear and there making a big difference to the surf crowding...
It ain't no conspiracy..The hole idea of this thread is to share a little info FFS.
In that case, it was so crowded this morning. Even dolphins had rocked up to take on the oldies on minimals. I strongly suggest everyone to not turn up tomorrow as it will probably be the same. Further more the ocean was basically flat with the occasional dumping wave ![]()
haha well it was the truth ![]()
There was one guy managing insane rides on what were barely even ripples...don't know how he managed to get so much speed from nothing.
Almost everyone else was on longboards. There was even a SUPer.
When there's SUPers at Secrets you know it's bad ![]()
Oh and yeah, sorry again. Don't know what I was thinking with my other post.
Silly indeed.
Just checked the Scarb cam - trying to plan my day tomorrow - watch the GF with two teams I care less about - or look for an uncrowded surf...
Anyways... Scarborough looks about 6 inches and the only person I saw on two runs of the cam was a sole SUPer.
GROAN! ![]()