I got s k u n t e d, swell wasn't hitting the bank right and then got tied up with work until well after the breeze swung.
I haven't been wet since the 6th of September and I gotta say it's starting to $hit me a bit now.
I hear Surf Beach was a bit of a mission to get out the back this morning?
It certainly was...well it was at first but got easier. If you weren't in a rip you had little chance...and staying in the rip was tricky because the gutter current was quite fast.
In all honesty...I've never seen so many clean waves roll in at such frequency. We were all giving up waves that normally people would be killing each other for...just cause we could. I really wish I could have stayed out even longer.
haha yeah i know i know. By the time I'd carried my boards back to the car, after hours in the water, there was no chance I was walking back to take photos that wouldn't have done it justice hahaha 
....not when coffee and bacon was waiting....
Really need to get a gopro! Managed a real quick tube today and would have come up a treat on camera!
...but the chika saw it all and that's all the matters right now 
what about this arvo Suba? if you don't surf today you'll be sad, I'm stuck in the classroom but will get an arvo, probably onshore but yesterday arvo was good despite a slight onshore down here. Sat morn looks good. Also, Smicko, any reports on the new blade? might get in touch with your man after the Indo trip, Xmas present I think
Probably the best metro waves ive had all year. Forgotten how tiring surfing can be when there's no crew around and you can just paddle for anything. Arms were burnt out after 2 hours.
^ 
Running around like a headless chicken better be worth it. Still got a bunch of stuff to do before a trip away so I've been flat out with no water time for maybe a couple of weeks. Rest assured I've been driving past the water though, and yesterday in particular looked good, today too.
Newby is fun Bakesy, only had one surf on it which was that sucky breakwall down your way. Really quick and loose with the width back but the fins back hold the tail in on late drops. Fun.
Enjoy Indo mate.
Right I'm headed north for an early in the morning, need to be back by one-ish. If anyone is keen on a paddle PM me as my usual surfing partner is still bungle bungling his way around up north.
Will be working til about 8 or so tonight so you won't hear back from me until after that.
cheers
mick
Running around like a headless chicken better be worth it. Still got a bunch of stuff to do before a trip away so I've been flat out with no water time for maybe a couple of weeks. Rest assured I've been driving past the water though, and yesterday in particular looked good, today too.. I'll get up at 5.30 and check just in case.
. I'll miss some spring days, but it's GWS season anyway.
Internet bag-outery aside, that really really sucks mate.
Here's to a speedy recovery. Cant imagine more than a week out of the salt.
. I'll miss some spring days, but it's GWS season anyway.
Shoulder. It'll be three weeks off two years exactly since the other one was done. Same problem, same doc, same prognosis. Should be fine by next winter.
Ya didn't miss much Dog, was fatter than me. Had one good double up and that was about it.
Swell well down on yesterday - but I had a much better surf... northern beachie inconsistent shoulder to head, 8/10 shape and glassy as... a small pack of about 15 waiting - but no aggro or hassling...
Lulled big time about 9:15am - but when the 2knot Westerly came in so did the sets - shame for the 10 blokes who went in and left it for me and another bloke....
Started to poop itself around 10:00am.
A bit of weed around tho'
Jumped in at Mullaloo mid morning with kids and was actually not bad. Bit inconsistent but ended up helping a female Sup-er out the back for her first time and karma was on my side. Not hers sadly as she kept getting belted back into the beach.
After she left it dropped of so tried to help a new bin lidder but that made no difference as the tide was coming in so i sent him away..
Fun day and didn't kick my toe until second last waveNot fun surfing with busted toe..
Just spent a few hours in at Cott. Mushy as hell but patience paid off often enough. Checked out Trigg but was looking super messy and there was a seal washed up who looked either sick, injured or VERY tired...was final straw for me not to be bother 
Had to have another sesh....went back out again for a couple of hours...
...too knackered to type...almost.
I made the mistake this morning of giving Trigg a go.
Talk about a humbling experience...a tiring one too...uuuurgh.
