Select to expand quoteFoilAddict said..
All stleepasty said..FoilAddict said..
Here's what I found works:
1125/85m/70f/232v2 0 to -1 over A+
925/85m/60/232v2 -1 over A+
1550v2/85m/60f/232v2 -1 to -1,5 over A+
I have also tried the 925/85/60/v200 twice and it probably needs about -1.5 over A+
you mean adding -1 shim or running it with no shim on a+ so it's minus 1?
ive been finding the v200 better winging with no shim on the 925 but not tried any more negative
These are on top of the -1 in the A+ system.
Just to be 100% clear, by adding negative shims on top of the -1 (which is built in to the v2 tails), you mean increasing the downward force of the tail wing, correct?
Do also you happen to know by any chance if this built-in -1 angle of the 232v2 is the same as the built-in angle of the 232v1? So, did they change the angle of the 232 from v1 to v2? I'm still running the "old" system with the titanium shims and a first version 232, so trying to figure out what the equivalent would be.
Another question I'd be keen to hear your thoughts on Kane, is what a higher aspect ratio tail achieves in your opinion? I don't have the riding skills to test or validate in the water, but as a thought experiment I would think: a higher aspect ratio increases the slope of the Cl-alpha curve, so at a bigger pitch deflection you would get a comparatively speaking higher stabilizing force, and this would result in a more pitch stable setup? I would imagine this is favorable, especially as you start going faster. Trying to think of the negatives, quicker to stall?
Im pretty sure there is no built in angle to the 232 tail wing itself. Original fuse itself was at zero - adding those metal shims changed its pitch.
A plus fuse set at minus 1 - so putting on nuetral 232 tails means you are at minus 1. Add plastic shims to change.
i have old fuse, running a zero metal shim but with a plus one red plastic shim turned around - so essentially im at minus 1. The fit isnt perfect on the fuse but good enough for me not to notice.
Select to expand quotehilly said..longboard said..hilly said..
I adapted a SPG 18 inch Sprint tail. Very thin and fast. easy to cut down as well www.signatureperformancegear.com/product/sprint-18-tail-wing/?v=e4dd286dc7d7
Thanks Hilly.
I actually have one of those tails...
Would you mind giving some insight on how you adapted the tail to fit the Armstrong fuse...?
Would it be a case of drilling the aft hole to align with the Armstrong rear hole on the fuse...(Basically drill another hole at the red dot?)
And possibly some sanding on the tail area that contacts the fuse as well...?
I filled the hole with epoxy and re-drilled a new hole and counter sunk it.
I added bog at the front but that fell off and it works fine with no sanding.
Ok dumb question.
I see the Armstrong thread for the screws is in the actual tail - and that the SPG tail isn't threaded.
Any advice on how to get the screws to hold the SPG tail on the Armstrong fuse??
Hilly - did you thread the titanium fuse.?!
Could try using the Armstrong barrel nuts - would be easier than putting thread into titanium
Select to expand quotelongboard said..hilly said..longboard said..hilly said..
I adapted a SPG 18 inch Sprint tail. Very thin and fast. easy to cut down as well www.signatureperformancegear.com/product/sprint-18-tail-wing/?v=e4dd286dc7d7
Thanks Hilly.
I actually have one of those tails...
Would you mind giving some insight on how you adapted the tail to fit the Armstrong fuse...?
Would it be a case of drilling the aft hole to align with the Armstrong rear hole on the fuse...(Basically drill another hole at the red dot?)
And possibly some sanding on the tail area that contacts the fuse as well...?
I filled the hole with epoxy and re-drilled a new hole and counter sunk it.
I added bog at the front but that fell off and it works fine with no sanding.
Ok dumb question.
I see the Armstrong thread for the screws is in the actual tail - and that the SPG tail isn't threaded.
Any advice on how to get the screws to hold the SPG tail on the Armstrong fuse??
Hilly - did you thread the titanium fuse.?!
No I used a thin SS nut on top.
Select to expand quotehilly said..longboard said..hilly said..longboard said..hilly said..
I adapted a SPG 18 inch Sprint tail. Very thin and fast. easy to cut down as well www.signatureperformancegear.com/product/sprint-18-tail-wing/?v=e4dd286dc7d7
Thanks Hilly.
I actually have one of those tails...
Would you mind giving some insight on how you adapted the tail to fit the Armstrong fuse...?
Would it be a case of drilling the aft hole to align with the Armstrong rear hole on the fuse...(Basically drill another hole at the red dot?)
And possibly some sanding on the tail area that contacts the fuse as well...?
I filled the hole with epoxy and re-drilled a new hole and counter sunk it.
I added bog at the front but that fell off and it works fine with no sanding.
Ok dumb question.
I see the Armstrong thread for the screws is in the actual tail - and that the SPG tail isn't threaded.
Any advice on how to get the screws to hold the SPG tail on the Armstrong fuse??
Hilly - did you thread the titanium fuse.?!
No I used a thin SS nut on top.
Roger that. Thanks.
Looking forward to giving the SPG tail a run...
Select to expand quotehilly said..longboard said..hilly said..longboard said..hilly said..
I adapted a SPG 18 inch Sprint tail. Very thin and fast. easy to cut down as well www.signatureperformancegear.com/product/sprint-18-tail-wing/?v=e4dd286dc7d7
Thanks Hilly.
I actually have one of those tails...
Would you mind giving some insight on how you adapted the tail to fit the Armstrong fuse...?
Would it be a case of drilling the aft hole to align with the Armstrong rear hole on the fuse...(Basically drill another hole at the red dot?)
And possibly some sanding on the tail area that contacts the fuse as well...?
I filled the hole with epoxy and re-drilled a new hole and counter sunk it.
I added bog at the front but that fell off and it works fine with no sanding.
Ok dumb question.
I see the Armstrong thread for the screws is in the actual tail - and that the SPG tail isn't threaded.
Any advice on how to get the screws to hold the SPG tail on the Armstrong fuse??
Hilly - did you thread the titanium fuse.?!
No I used a thin SS nut on top.
So you've had the 1125 for a while, what's it like compared to the 1250, 1550v2 or the 925 for winging?
I have the 925 which is good, trying to find the low end but as my weight looking for a higher aspect bigger wing for 15knots
Does the 1125 replace the 1250 or 1550v2 for a 95-100kg rider?
So had my best session on the 1125 today. Some things clicked. For me its not an easy foil to learn to ride compared to the plug and play mid aspects like HS1250. Its very addictive though. Wind was a SW rolling in to the Outer Harbour in Toronto. This setups some nice lake swell, short period with not a lot of voodoo cross chop. I have found that really makes or breaks sessions. If the water has lot of cross chop the 1125 becomes too much for me. On jibes going in with lots of speed but quickly coming back to a flat wing position as the wing is re-engaging kept the speed and stability. After that its easy to crank upwind. The pumping though was amazing. I was running way faster than the waves but just light taps and keeping the foil level kept the glide going for long sections. along with leaning forward.
Can't wait for another SW session
- 99L FG board at position 4.5,
- 60 fuse
-KD 14" Tail with 0.5 shim
-wing 6.0 strike
- weight 85 kg
Hello.
I have the 1125 + 85m + 60f.
I noticed (on the beach) that the front wing is not completly stif. It wobbles (rotates) a little when i manually move it left and right. Does it do it for too ? I m worried it will get damage over Time...
I ll try to take a video of it.
Select to expand quotetyvain said..
Hello.
I have the 1125 + 85m + 60f.
I noticed (on the beach) that the front wing is not completly stif. It wobbles (rotates) a little when i manually move it left and right. Does it do it for too ? I m worried it will get damage over Time...
I ll try to take a video of it.
If you don't have the A+ fuse, and the wobbling is occurring in the Fuse/Mast connection, I would recommend fixing the issue before it becomes worse. I've never had to do this, but some have used some sort of thin clear coat spray or light glassing on the fuse portion so that it will make a nice snug fit. You can always sand it back lightly if you over due it. Some even use surf wax 
I've had the opposite problem before and had to take off some carbon inside one of my masts that was too tight. I used a paint pen to mark up the fuse so that when I inserted I could see where the paint/marker was rubbing, indicating a high point. Some very light sanding fixed my issue there.
Select to expand quoteMidAtlanticFoil said..tyvain said..
Hello.
I have the 1125 + 85m + 60f.
I noticed (on the beach) that the front wing is not completly stif. It wobbles (rotates) a little when i manually move it left and right. Does it do it for too ? I m worried it will get damage over Time...
I ll try to take a video of it.
If you don't have the A+ fuse, and the wobbling is occurring in the Fuse/Mast connection, I would recommend fixing the issue before it becomes worse. I've never had to do this, but some have used some sort of thin clear coat spray or light glassing on the fuse portion so that it will make a nice snug fit. You can always sand it back lightly if you over due it. Some even use surf wax
I've had the opposite problem before and had to take off some carbon inside one of my masts that was too tight. I used a paint pen to mark up the fuse so that when I inserted I could see where the paint/marker was rubbing, indicating a high point. Some very light sanding fixed my issue there.
Its a Brand New a+ kit.
I will bring it back to th? shop.. I am a bit disapointed in regards to the Price. I expexted something more stif...
Select to expand quote
Its a Brand New a+ kit.
I will bring it back to th? shop.. I am a bit disapointed in regards to the Price. I expexted something more stif...
Do you mean the flex in the bottom of mast not the it's wobbling on the connection?
i find the flex helps with the turns and gives the lively feel. if you put a 1100 wide wing on any mast/fuse you can flex it with you hand on the beach. The Armstrong is more of a springy flex where as others especially with Ali fuse and carbon mast have more of a flex and twisting action which I would think is not good ??
Yeh was about to say you need to clarify exactly what the so called wobble is? If front wing - fuse connection bad. If overall flex - equals good once you dial it in.
Select to expand quotetyvain said..MidAtlanticFoil said..tyvain said..
Hello.
I have the 1125 + 85m + 60f.
I noticed (on the beach) that the front wing is not completly stif. It wobbles (rotates) a little when i manually move it left and right. Does it do it for too ? I m worried it will get damage over Time...
I ll try to take a video of it.
If you don't have the A+ fuse, and the wobbling is occurring in the Fuse/Mast connection, I would recommend fixing the issue before it becomes worse. I've never had to do this, but some have used some sort of thin clear coat spray or light glassing on the fuse portion so that it will make a nice snug fit. You can always sand it back lightly if you over due it. Some even use surf wax
I've had the opposite problem before and had to take off some carbon inside one of my masts that was too tight. I used a paint pen to mark up the fuse so that when I inserted I could see where the paint/marker was rubbing, indicating a high point. Some very light sanding fixed my issue there.
Its a Brand New a+ kit.
I will bring it back to th? shop.. I am a bit disapointed in regards to the Price. I expexted something more stif...
Oh, so you are referring to the overall rig being flexible. If you pull on the 1125 wingtip, downward (when the board is upside down) there certainly will be some flex in the tapered mast due to the leverage. You have to realize that when you are foiling, the entire front wing has positive lift, so that amount of one sided load is not ever going to occur. The amount of flex you experience riding is much less and as others have said, it creates a lively feel. Think crappy epoxy tuff-lite surfboards versus traditional construction.
If you are a heavyweight, or very much use to an aluminum mast, it can take some getting use to it. In the end, some love it and others don't.
To clarify (sorry my english IS not so good).
The mouvement is between the fuse and front wing.
When i grab both tips of the front wing and 'rotate' it i can see it rotate between fuse and front wing.
Its very little (maybe 1mm) but i expexted this part to not move at all.
I know that there can be flex in the material. I juste dont expexted parts to move from each other...
Can someone look if they have the same 'rotating front wing' issue ?
Select to expand quotetyvain said..
To clarify (sorry my english IS not so good).
The mouvement is between the fuse and front wing.
When i grab both tips of the front wing and 'rotate' it i can see it rotate between fuse and front wing.
Its very little (maybe 1mm) but i expexted this part to not move at all.
I know that there can be flex in the material. I juste dont expexted parts to move from each other...
Can someone look if they have the same 'rotating front wing' issue ?
This has been addressed frequently previously. A few different solutions clear lacquer spray in several light coats inside the foil, wax on the spigot or tape. You just need to add a small amount of some material to take up the slack. But seriously you will not feel the difference when riding as the whole foil is loaded.
The addition of the barrel bolt addressed this issue for A+ setups, and for the older V1 setups all you have to do is drill one extra hole in the top of the wing to accommodate the barrel nut and the problem is solved.
Hi all,
I struggle with this setup and I would like advice:
1125 ha/f60/m85/V200/no shim (so I am at -1).
43 years old, 85Kg, intermediate level.
Wing foil in choppy water (30 cm waves).
I have 6 sessions so far.
easy take off, easy and fast riding straight up or down wind, easy carving to play.
Now my problem:
I fall on every gybe!!
When I start the turn, I feel it becomes very instable, I loose power and I fall on a side.
I am not a good rider, but I used to never fall with my former 2000 aero foil (it was so easy).
So here are my options:
1- change for 1250 HS + V200
2- change for 1125 HA + 232
3- keep trying... I just need more sessions with this wing?
4- change the setup (positive shim?)
5- another advice ?
Sorry if my english is not perfect.
First session on 1125 today, have been winging for about 2 weeks now on a 1600cf. Bought the 1125 as an aspirational foil and potentially as a light wind foil for kiting, as well as 925. After a session on both with kite the 1125 won't be used for that again, can pump up the 925 in almost anything.
anyway having just got hang of winging I figured might as well throw it on and have a try. Surprisingly easy to get up going from 1800cf to 1125ha, struggled first few gybes as it fees like it doesn't want to turn. Didn't feel significantly faster but was beating upwind mostly and a bit of weed around.
then went out the back to some swell.. jeeeesus. Dropping a face is terrifying, and it was about a foot or two. once it got going it was on.
short story- its a challenging foil but not expert level,
I'm glad i had something lower aspect to start but i will be able to ride it.
armstrong settings are still doing my head in and i really struggle with the massive range of shimming-
people doing same thing riding from -2 to +2. I have ben riding with a+ no shim (-1) and as i have no basis for comparison can't really tell what 'balanced' is on a wing compared with kite foiling.
would appreciate tips and thoughts on positioning of the mast and shimming for my specs-
72kg rider, 5 ft 4 fanatic sky wing (90L)
HA1125/85cm/60f/232
Select to expand quoteradair said..
Could one of you guys with a 1125 measure the chord for me?
Feels great.
Faster, more surfy and doesn't get locked in. Feels like I can push it like a surf wing. Only loss is glide.
Need to test in more surfy condition but am a fan so far.
Probably need to dial in the tips a bit but they performed well. Chopped all the upturn on the tip.
Feels similar to a 725 with more low end. That is what I am going for.
Pics below vs 925 and 725
Video: www.instagram.com/reel/CjQDMC1g7dg/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
