The outer reefs stop any (most) swell from getting through to beaches Nth of watermans south of mullalloo
i recall Watermans, Mettams and Toms being alot bigger and better before the marina (and dont forget the effect of the 3 sorrento groynes placed before the marina came along)
or is it just a groms memory of bigger/better!!!!
I don't mean to discount the older memories of older waves, but I do think sometimes our memories seem larger when we were younger. For example, if you go back to your old primary school, it is pretty common to think 'I remember that being so much bigger'.
The only reason I'm saying this is I like boats and I had a conversation with a bloke who said "I don't care what anyone say, the old outboards used to go so much faster". I think this is untrue. Also, people recall the days of their valiants, cortinas and kingswoods and say 'yeah the old 250 was very quick' or 'gee the 245 really took off'. It only takes a quick bit of research on a car comparing website to realise these old cars actually had very, very little horsepower and not as much torque as we remembered.
I have no authority to say how waves were back in the day as I wasn't there.
Surfed gallows yesterday arvo by myself for an hour and then a couple of other guys paddled out. Inconsistent but head high on the set and protected from sea breeze (glassy). Fun times.![]()
no doubt that the point changed after Hilary's, watched it happen and it was pretty devastating. I'm pretty sure that places like Mett's and Tom's were effected but not to the extent that was seen at the point, many predicted that it would sort itself out but I'm pretty certain it didn't happen
The Cut is a slightly different story, although its construction destroyed an awesome sandbar break it appears to have had little impact on the other breaks nearby, many have said to me that Avalon is as good as ever, melros and Gearies seem to have been unaffected according to crew that have surfed here for three to four decades. I know the two projects are very different but it's interesting to note how man made coastal developments can have a very different impact on the surf.
How could the marina affect Trigg? With the seabreeze all the sand moves south to north, thats why it takes some time after winter for the point to fill with sand and start breaking.
^^^
Look how far Hilliary's Marina extends out to sea... along with the 3 groynes at Sorrento they have altered the way the sand moves along the coast. I can't give a scientific answer, but I can say from experience that Trigg Point is no where near the wave it used to be. In 1983 it made the news as pro-surfers from all over Oz were coming over for the perfect 6ft rights that ran down the beach for nearly 100m... Must have been around October as I was studying for my yr 12 exams.
Yep i remember almost missing exams (mind u it was only art!) because 1st reef waterman was pumping, taking off way inside the reef and finishing on the shore 1/2 way up the bay. Have never seen it again since...... Also surfin the reef at trigg point during a comp, think it was King of da, taking off way up the sth end and going right thru the comp area.... Thought i was smashin it too on my indian ocean high velocity finned thruster.....all that moise cumin from the beach was for me not matt manners or benton moran or boonga!!
yep, I remember Cheyne Horan surfing it around those times then Munga Barry, Dooma and Occy surfing it before they went to to the masters. I think the norwesters during winter set it up which may explain it as the marina would block that flow, no science to back it up just memories of what it was like before. King of da point was a big deal in the 70's,80's and early 90's does it even exist nowdays?
Being a rocko boy, I don't remember any of that. All I remember is 4x4 through huge dunes to get to surf beach, which we all though was way better than trig. Not sure if it was, but that's what the rocko boys thought.....
did those guys really jump on a plane to come surf trigg point back then? Perth must have really got heaps more swell back then compared to now, I didnt surf back then and dont even check the place due to the crowds these days. I find it difficult to imagine anyone travelling to perth to surf, its not like we get epic swells like the east coast and when we do the banks are usually crap
least they can get up to 10 12 ft in metro locations and have variety and good banks which leaves isolated out of town locations uncrowded, in wa you travel from 2 to 12 hrs in a car and its still crowded. fine if your a pro, naturally rip or have your "secret" locations. average joe struggles to get a wave
1st groyne was arippa during late grommyhood, usedta wait all day during summer hols for sea breeze to howl in so me n mate could be ready....all f$^$ day sittin on the groyne watching it from side on till that magic moment when one looked good enough.....nth side could get long ish rides from out front of groyne or south side sucky short ones...................ah memories
Wish I started surfing as a grom... but what can you say, enjoy what you got at the moment ![]()
Anyone out today? Has the wind died down and is it worth a paddle even if it's little 1ft'ers?
Had an onshore surf on my own this arvo, not bad considering the conditions. It was pretty consistent for nearly an hour until the 'breeze really kicked in. Sets were shoulder to head and the faces were nice and clean.
This pic was a between the sets wave, I was too keen to hop in and didn't wait for a set to get a good pic. When I got out it was really messy so no pic then either.
Ok to keep the peace I won't mention any names in future......like I said though I would think your mates should be more worried about those surf maps and guidebooks though.....
Pumping on the east coast today again. Swell has straightened out and is little more organised today!
Have you seen this
www.wannasurf.com/spot/Australia_Pacific/Australia/WA/Margaret_River_North/index.html
or the surf map you get from the visitors bureau. The cat has been out of the bag for a very long time. Some of you really can be a bunch of delusional knobbers.
There are very few secret spots between the Capes anymore.