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Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

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Created by doggie > 9 months ago, 23 Apr 2010
mocha1
WA, 934 posts
26 Dec 2011 11:07AM
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The outer reefs stop any (most) swell from getting through to beaches Nth of watermans south of mullalloo
i recall Watermans, Mettams and Toms being alot bigger and better before the marina (and dont forget the effect of the 3 sorrento groynes placed before the marina came along)


or is it just a groms memory of bigger/better!!!!

GPA
WA, 2529 posts
26 Dec 2011 1:25PM
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mocha1 said...

The outer reefs stop any (most) swell from getting through to beaches Nth of watermans south of mullalloo
i recall Watermans, Mettams and Toms being alot bigger and better before the marina (and dont forget the effect of the 3 sorrento groynes placed before the marina came along)


or is it just a groms memory of bigger/better!!!!


No was def much better... there's already a thread about this somewhere on this site...

No photos, but I'm the same height now as I was at 15, and we used to regularly surf Watermans first reef over head high in winter... and surfing Trigg Point used to hold some cred, as it was known as the premier metro break... Now it rarely works properly and is full of tweenies on lids...

PaddlePig
WA, 421 posts
26 Dec 2011 3:26PM
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I don't mean to discount the older memories of older waves, but I do think sometimes our memories seem larger when we were younger. For example, if you go back to your old primary school, it is pretty common to think 'I remember that being so much bigger'.

The only reason I'm saying this is I like boats and I had a conversation with a bloke who said "I don't care what anyone say, the old outboards used to go so much faster". I think this is untrue. Also, people recall the days of their valiants, cortinas and kingswoods and say 'yeah the old 250 was very quick' or 'gee the 245 really took off'. It only takes a quick bit of research on a car comparing website to realise these old cars actually had very, very little horsepower and not as much torque as we remembered.

I have no authority to say how waves were back in the day as I wasn't there.

swalkington
WA, 401 posts
26 Dec 2011 4:19PM
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Surfed gallows yesterday arvo by myself for an hour and then a couple of other guys paddled out. Inconsistent but head high on the set and protected from sea breeze (glassy). Fun times.

bakesy
WA, 682 posts
26 Dec 2011 7:21PM
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no doubt that the point changed after Hilary's, watched it happen and it was pretty devastating. I'm pretty sure that places like Mett's and Tom's were effected but not to the extent that was seen at the point, many predicted that it would sort itself out but I'm pretty certain it didn't happen The Cut is a slightly different story, although its construction destroyed an awesome sandbar break it appears to have had little impact on the other breaks nearby, many have said to me that Avalon is as good as ever, melros and Gearies seem to have been unaffected according to crew that have surfed here for three to four decades. I know the two projects are very different but it's interesting to note how man made coastal developments can have a very different impact on the surf.

coreyb
WA, 463 posts
26 Dec 2011 8:28PM
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How could the marina affect Trigg? With the seabreeze all the sand moves south to north, thats why it takes some time after winter for the point to fill with sand and start breaking.

GPA
WA, 2529 posts
26 Dec 2011 8:43PM
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^^^
Look how far Hilliary's Marina extends out to sea... along with the 3 groynes at Sorrento they have altered the way the sand moves along the coast. I can't give a scientific answer, but I can say from experience that Trigg Point is no where near the wave it used to be. In 1983 it made the news as pro-surfers from all over Oz were coming over for the perfect 6ft rights that ran down the beach for nearly 100m... Must have been around October as I was studying for my yr 12 exams.

mocha1
WA, 934 posts
26 Dec 2011 9:17PM
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Yep i remember almost missing exams (mind u it was only art!) because 1st reef waterman was pumping, taking off way inside the reef and finishing on the shore 1/2 way up the bay. Have never seen it again since...... Also surfin the reef at trigg point during a comp, think it was King of da, taking off way up the sth end and going right thru the comp area.... Thought i was smashin it too on my indian ocean high velocity finned thruster.....all that moise cumin from the beach was for me not matt manners or benton moran or boonga!!

bakesy
WA, 682 posts
26 Dec 2011 10:08PM
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yep, I remember Cheyne Horan surfing it around those times then Munga Barry, Dooma and Occy surfing it before they went to to the masters. I think the norwesters during winter set it up which may explain it as the marina would block that flow, no science to back it up just memories of what it was like before. King of da point was a big deal in the 70's,80's and early 90's does it even exist nowdays?

swalkington
WA, 401 posts
26 Dec 2011 11:30PM
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Being a rocko boy, I don't remember any of that. All I remember is 4x4 through huge dunes to get to surf beach, which we all though was way better than trig. Not sure if it was, but that's what the rocko boys thought.....

surferstu
1011 posts
26 Dec 2011 11:35PM
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did those guys really jump on a plane to come surf trigg point back then? Perth must have really got heaps more swell back then compared to now, I didnt surf back then and dont even check the place due to the crowds these days. I find it difficult to imagine anyone travelling to perth to surf, its not like we get epic swells like the east coast and when we do the banks are usually crap

swalkington
WA, 401 posts
26 Dec 2011 11:43PM
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surferstu said...

did those guys really jump on a plane to come surf trigg point back then? Perth must have really got heaps more swell back then compared to now, I didnt surf back then and dont even check the place due to the crowds these days. I find it difficult to imagine anyone travelling to perth to surf, its not like we get epic swells like the east coast and when we do the banks are usually crap


Western aust actually gets way more consistent swell than east coast it's just that Rotto & outer reefs block it from getting to Perth. Maybe those pros were on there way to margs and scored good trigg as they passed thru? .....just think of all the options back then.....the bluff gnaralloo Need time capsule

surferstu
1011 posts
26 Dec 2011 11:50PM
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least they can get up to 10 12 ft in metro locations and have variety and good banks which leaves isolated out of town locations uncrowded, in wa you travel from 2 to 12 hrs in a car and its still crowded. fine if your a pro, naturally rip or have your "secret" locations. average joe struggles to get a wave

swalkington
WA, 401 posts
26 Dec 2011 11:55PM
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surferstu said...

least they can get up to 10 12 ft in metro locations and have variety and good banks which leaves isolated out of town locations uncrowded, in wa you travel from 2 to 12 hrs in a car and its still crowded. fine if your a pro, naturally rip or have your "secret" locations. average joe struggles to get a wave


Yes to all you eastcoasters stay away there are no waves in WA (and it's always crowded)

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
27 Dec 2011 7:44AM
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swalkington said...

surferstu said...

least they can get up to 10 12 ft in metro locations and have variety and good banks which leaves isolated out of town locations uncrowded, in wa you travel from 2 to 12 hrs in a car and its still crowded. fine if your a pro, naturally rip or have your "secret" locations. average joe struggles to get a wave


Yes to all you eastcoasters stay away there are no waves in WA (and it's always crowded)


At the moment its sure as hell windy

Hamsta
505 posts
27 Dec 2011 12:12PM
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mocha1 said...

The outer reefs stop any (most) swell from getting through to beaches Nth of watermans south of mullalloo
i recall Watermans, Mettams and Toms being alot bigger and better before the marina (and dont forget the effect of the 3 sorrento groynes placed before the marina came along)


or is it just a groms memory of bigger/better!!!!


1st reef at Watermans Bay used to be a fun right hander that wouild also work in winter onshores, as did Watermans Bay. There was a bunch of non-grommet regulars who would surf here and it would definately produce ridable waves a lot more during winter. I suspect that a series of heavier than usual winter swells/storms washed the sand away from the bay/1st reef and it has never been fully replentished so the wave ceased to work.

Sorrento Groyne (2nd Groyne) used to provide sucky waist to chest height left handers if a 1.5 to 2m swell coincided with a strong seabreeze. I can remember some older guys surfing here, so it was not grommet waist to chest height! Not great waves, but another option that doesn't exist anymore due to changes in sand movement?

mocha1
WA, 934 posts
27 Dec 2011 1:27PM
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1st groyne was arippa during late grommyhood, usedta wait all day during summer hols for sea breeze to howl in so me n mate could be ready....all f$^$ day sittin on the groyne watching it from side on till that magic moment when one looked good enough.....nth side could get long ish rides from out front of groyne or south side sucky short ones...................ah memories

newguy
654 posts
27 Dec 2011 5:21PM
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Wish I started surfing as a grom... but what can you say, enjoy what you got at the moment

Anyone out today? Has the wind died down and is it worth a paddle even if it's little 1ft'ers?

TimKay
752 posts
27 Dec 2011 5:34PM
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swalkington said...

Surfed gallows yesterday arvo by myself for an hour and then a couple of other guys paddled out. Inconsistent but head high on the set and protected from sea breeze (glassy). Fun times.

And by telling everyone you limit your chances of it happening again

Zuke
901 posts
27 Dec 2011 6:33PM
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Had an onshore surf on my own this arvo, not bad considering the conditions. It was pretty consistent for nearly an hour until the 'breeze really kicked in. Sets were shoulder to head and the faces were nice and clean.

This pic was a between the sets wave, I was too keen to hop in and didn't wait for a set to get a good pic. When I got out it was really messy so no pic then either.


jjd
WA, 705 posts
27 Dec 2011 7:02PM
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A .........s ?

Zuke
901 posts
27 Dec 2011 7:19PM
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^^^ can't say, it upsets people.

swalkington
WA, 401 posts
27 Dec 2011 11:08PM
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TimKay said...

swalkington said...

Surfed gallows yesterday arvo by myself for an hour and then a couple of other guys paddled out. Inconsistent but head high on the set and protected from sea breeze (glassy). Fun times.

And by telling everyone you limit your chances of it happening again


Not really..... I only surf it once a year on Christmas day anyway. Every other day I have been there it's been pretty crowded & it ain't no secret (directions in every surf guide book available ave seen to that)

TimKay
752 posts
28 Dec 2011 9:15AM
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swalkington said...

TimKay said...

swalkington said...

Surfed gallows yesterday arvo by myself for an hour and then a couple of other guys paddled out. Inconsistent but head high on the set and protected from sea breeze (glassy). Fun times.

And by telling everyone you limit your chances of it happening again


Not really..... I only surf it once a year on Christmas day anyway. Every other day I have been there it's been pretty crowded & it ain't no secret (directions in every surf guide book available ave seen to that)

Well I have some good mates who surf the place regularly
They live locally and wouldnt be happy with advertising the place in the bush telegraph and digital media
But hey, why would you care You only surf there once a year

swalkington
WA, 401 posts
28 Dec 2011 9:22AM
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Ok to keep the peace I won't mention any names in future......like I said though I would think your mates should be more worried about those surf maps and guidebooks though.....

Prawnhead
NSW, 1317 posts
28 Dec 2011 12:25PM
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Pumping on the east coast today again. Swell has straightened out and is little more organised today!

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
28 Dec 2011 9:49AM
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Oh FFS get over the secret spots that are NOT secret. Thumb away **** wits

oz surf
WA, 407 posts
28 Dec 2011 2:16PM
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smicko said...

Oh FFS get over the secret spots that are NOT secret. Thumb away **** wits


They might not be secret but you dont have to tell everyone.You xxxxwit

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
28 Dec 2011 2:36PM
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Have you seen this
www.wannasurf.com/spot/Australia_Pacific/Australia/WA/Margaret_River_North/index.html

or the surf map you get from the visitors bureau. The cat has been out of the bag for a very long time. Some of you really can be a bunch of delusional knobbers.
There are very few secret spots between the Capes anymore.

Woodo
WA, 792 posts
28 Dec 2011 2:50PM
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^^^ haha

Let's hope they don't make one of those for our secret metro spots



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"Legions surf report :: Daily updates.." started by doggie