Select to expand quoteAchernar said..
As a friend of mine is fond of saying, if its stupid and it works, its not stupid. $29.95.
www.bunnings.com.au/holman-150mm-pvc-dwv-male-flap-valve_p0149150?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_dWGBhDAARIsAMcYuJy6ZY-QnGPk4y6CduZa7VLu5YtHY0qE2iyFp5drahGLtw1bFWQLLQgaAvkbEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Or, whatever size fits.
Yes thank you I saw those and went had a had a look at them but I think they might be a little flimsy as the single pivot doesn't look that strong and probably isn't UV friendly. Suppose I could buy a couple and bung them in when I do a passage and then throw them away if they break or take them off later. Anyway looks like if I was still at home in Sydney I couldn't visit, work on or sail my boat so my as well stay in Airlie Beach for at least another couple of weeks. Anyone up here want to take me for a sail and cure my withdraws :-)
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said..Achernar said..
As a friend of mine is fond of saying, if its stupid and it works, its not stupid. $29.95.
www.bunnings.com.au/holman-150mm-pvc-dwv-male-flap-valve_p0149150?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_dWGBhDAARIsAMcYuJy6ZY-QnGPk4y6CduZa7VLu5YtHY0qE2iyFp5drahGLtw1bFWQLLQgaAvkbEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Or, whatever size fits.
Yes thank you I saw those and went had a had a look at them but I think they might be a little flimsy as the single pivot doesn't look that strong and probably isn't UV friendly. Suppose I could buy a couple and bung them in when I do a passage and then throw them away if they break or take them off later. Anyway looks like if I was still at home in Sydney I couldn't visit, work on or sail my boat so my as well stay in Airlie Beach for at least another couple of weeks. Anyone up here want to take me for a sail and cure my withdraws :-)
If you want boat scupper flaps lots of options available
This weekend I did a dry fit on my dinghy, still have to sort out the mast step. Then I can check it all again and epoxy everything in place.
Next, make the swing rudder, tiller, in/out wale, mast,boom,spar, and order the sail. Oh and sand, paint, and varnish.
Splash down is set for the end of Sept, somewhere sheltered and quiet.
Select to expand quoteMike367 said..
This weekend I did a dry fit on my dinghy, still have to sort out the mast step. Then I can check it all again and epoxy everything in place.
Next, make the swing rudder, tiller, in/out wale, mast,boom,spar, and order the sail. Oh and sand, paint, and varnish.
Splash down is set for the end of Sept, somewhere sheltered and quiet.
cool looks like a practical design
Select to expand quoter13 said..
That's a beauty look forward to seeing it sailing.
Yeah me too :)
Select to expand quoteboty said..Mike367 said..
This weekend I did a dry fit on my dinghy, still have to sort out the mast step. Then I can check it all again and epoxy everything in place.
Next, make the swing rudder, tiller, in/out wale, mast,boom,spar, and order the sail. Oh and sand, paint, and varnish.
Splash down is set for the end of Sept, somewhere sheltered and quiet.
cool looks like a practical design
It's a Selway Fisher designed Coble
Firstly Rob (R13), a big thank you for bringing Spindrift to my attention.
It been nearly a year since I purchased it and it is a joy to sail.
I have the completed the following improvements. Saltiest1 has helped me with some of them.
Replaced the furler with a Profurl C-320
Replaced the toilet with a manual Jabsco
Replaced the water pump with Jabsco
Replaced the batteries and bow plate
Replaced the cockpit perspex windows
Repaired forward hatch, boarding ladder
Removed two excess spinnakers which tidied up the mast base
Removed ten meters of rusty chain rode. Still have forty metres
Added a tiller extension, lazy jacks, sailbag and shadecloth
Serviced the Fleming Wine Vane, hydraulic backstay and winches and I have run the main halyard back to the cockpit
Currently replacing the compass, the cockpit speakers and the ignition switch and repositioning it into the cockpit
I have had the engine serviced and its presently being antifouled
I am planning some time away at Lake Macquarie in September.
Thanks John. A power of work you have done there. Waiting for the mongrel westerlies to go away and the temp to warm up so can work through the to-do list more regularly on the weekend.
That'll be a well-earned and well-deserved break after all that work, great stuff!
Select to expand quote2bish said..
That'll be a well-earned and well-deserved break after all that work, great stuff!
Great to hear from both of you.
Select to expand quoteBundeenabuoy said..
Firstly Rob (R13), a big thank you for bringing Spindrift to my attention.
It been nearly a year since I purchased it and it is a joy to sail.
I have the completed the following improvements. Saltiest1 has helped me with some of them.
Replaced the furler with a Profurl C-320
Replaced the toilet with a manual Jabsco
Replaced the water pump with Jabsco
Replaced the batteries and bow plate
Replaced the cockpit perspex windows
Repaired forward hatch, boarding ladder
Removed two excess spinnakers which tidied up the mast base
Removed ten meters of rusty chain rode. Still have forty metres
Added a tiller extension, lazy jacks, sailbag and shadecloth
Serviced the Fleming Wine Vane, hydraulic backstay and winches and I have run the main halyard back to the cockpit
Currently replacing the compass, the cockpit speakers and the ignition switch and repositioning it into the cockpit
I have had the engine serviced and its presently being antifouled
I am planning some time away at Lake Macquarie in September.
A nice boat and excellent jobs to complete. Enjoy the sail, I hope it warms up for you.
Just a bit of an update inspired by the thread on deckhead linings. I took these photos this morning before I rolled on a coat of clear on the deckhead. The saloon deckhead is just the single layer plywood and I'm using Cabots floor clear instead of varnish. The yellow/cream colour in the cabin is just the first coat. The covers are off on the engine and I have not touched the bunk fronts or the main bulkhead yet. I'm just going to install backrests/shelf in the main saloon in the next couple of days. Note the deck prisms.
There are teak trim pieces to go around the lower edge of the cabin and I will be stitching up a red leather pad to go on the front edge where the flush deck starts and headroom reduces.
Glory that's some sort of result right there, you must be totally chuffed and knackered with all the work you have put into Richochet 2. Obviously it was let go and languished in Kogarah Bay for way too long - ok I fully realise these things happen due to more than valid circumstances - when it became clear that you had taken the yacht over it was clear another phoenix was going to ensue.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Just a bit of an update inspired by the thread on deckhead linings. I took these photos this morning before I rolled on a coat of clear on the deckhead. The saloon deckhead is just the single layer plywood and I'm using Cabots floor clear instead of varnish. The yellow/cream colour in the cabin is just the first coat. The covers are off on the engine and I have not touched the bunk fronts or the main bulkhead yet. I'm just going to install backrests/shelf in the main saloon in the next couple of days. Note the deck prisms.
There are teak trim pieces to go around the lower edge of the cabin and I will be stitching up a red leather pad to go on the front edge where the flush deck starts and headroom reduces.
Great work. Didn't realise they had the motor so far forward.
Prisms noted!!!!
What are you plans for all of the winch bolts dangling through the deckhead.
Sorry, just had to find SOMETHING to nit-pic.
She looks wonderful and a credit to you for taking so much care of her.
Keep the info and pics coming.
Gary
Being stuck in lockdown I've had a bit of time on my hands so I made a prop brake.
My boat has a hydraulic gearbox so the prop free wheels when sailing which is not only annoying but wearing out parts unnecessarily as well!!
I made a manual lock ages ago but it meant going below, lifting a floor panel & sticking my head down in the bilge & manually locking the prop, with a torch, & then doing the same to unlock it.
So now I have an electric brake - push a button to lock, push a button to unlock. 
A light will come on adjacent to the start button when locked.
Vid: www.facebook.com/100000077181867/videos/906856933508969/
Not sure if everyone who is in lockdown knows about this but I am using this to get to my boat to do maintenance etc & check on her!!
I live more than 10k from my boat & am only going down twice a week & not pushing the limits.
Also I don't come into contact with anyone else.
I've also had both Covid shots & had a test yesterday which came back negative. :)
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said..Ramona said..
Great work. Didn't realise they had the motor so far forward.
The engine is probably 30cm further back than the original engine layout.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..julesmoto said..Ramona said..
Great work. Didn't realise they had the motor so far forward.
The engine is probably 30cm further back than the original engine layout.
There's a piece in Ted Heath's book about the first Morning Cloud where h says that he paid extra to get a manual starting option for the engine because he was worried that with all the radio stuff he had to carry (as Leader of the party) he would flatten the batteries. The one time he went to use it, he discovered there wasn't enough room between the engine and the mast to put the crank handle in....
Welded up and installed a bar to hold the spinnaker and topping lifts clear of the mast today. How people can live without these I don't know! Slatting halyards have me reaching for the razor blades!
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Welded up and installed a bar to hold the spinnaker and topping lifts clear of the mast today. How people can live without these I don't know! Slatting halyards have me reaching for the razor blades!
Nice stuff, yep it's
number 3 on my list of why marina's are crappy places to sleep. Number 1 is the constant lighting and 2 is the proximity to people.
I should probably mention here that the engine is running now and runs exceptionally well. I did not bother working on the engine until about 6 weeks ago as I was more interested in finishing off the deck and making the boat waterproof.
The engine is a Beta 20hp which is a Kubota D722 and was new and installed in 2013 but has done very few hours. I'm guessing one oil change and probably 200 hours going by the internal appearance. My mate who repairs diesels reckons it's brand new. Ricochet sat on that mooring in Kogarah Bay for many years and the holes in the deck allowed plenty of rain inside. Apparently, the engine was totally submerged several times in freshwater. The water level marks were clearly visible when I bought her. The alternator and starter motor was rusted solid but the engine oil was perfectly clean and I could hand crank the engine over. The bell housing was full of water and I had to suck that out. I tossed the alternator and starter motor and replaced them with superbly made Chinese items off eBay for about $400 for both. I had to replace several wires in the wiring loom which had suffered badly around the crimped bits and blade connectors. The engine cranked over but would not start so I moved on to the fuel tank. The fuel tank is a SS unit, 80 litres mounted under the cockpit. There was a flush-mounted filler in the teak cockpit floor not properly sealed and about 150mm directly under that the fuel filler cap almost flush in the top of the tank. The shipwright strikes again! Water from the cockpit has been dripping directly onto the threads of the fuel cap and contaminating the diesel and there was the bug. The tank has no access panel. I sucked out the diesel and replaced it with 15 litres of fresh diesel. I polished this diesel for a while but it was never going to get really clean so I sucked that out again. Added another 15 litres and polished that over a few days. Just an hour a day or so till it was spotless. The deck filler now sits 20mm higher on a plastic base and I turned up a dome cover that fits on top of the tank lid so that any moisture runs off.
I then spent several days trying to get the engine to fire. Cranked fine but there seemed to be no compression. The glow plugs were fine. I cranked the engine with the rocker cover off and all the valves seemed to be fine. I suspected the rings might be stuck in but I had soaked them with diesel earlier on. I eventually gave the rockers a gentle tap with a hammer. My mate who made a point of staying away from the engine reckoned to just crank the crap out of it! So after several attempts, I was leaning over the engine and I thought it was firing so I cut the power to the starter and she was running! It was at idle and really quiet but when I put the throttle up she sounded good. During the first 10 minutes, there was the occasional noise of a sticking valve but that soon went away. I ran it for an hour or so. Now it starts instantly and runs as sweet as a nut.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
I should probably mention here that the engine is running now and runs exceptionally well. I did not bother working on the engine until about 6 weeks ago as I was more interested in finishing off the deck and making the boat waterproof.
The engine is a Beta 20hp which is a Kubota D722 and was new and installed in 2013 but has done very few hours. I'm guessing one oil change and probably 200 hours going by the internal appearance. My mate who repairs diesels reckons it's brand new. Ricochet sat on that mooring in Kogarah Bay for many years and the holes in the deck allowed plenty of rain inside. Apparently, the engine was totally submerged several times in freshwater. The water level marks were clearly visible when I bought her. The alternator and starter motor was rusted solid but the engine oil was perfectly clean and I could hand crank the engine over. The bell housing was full of water and I had to suck that out. I tossed the alternator and starter motor and replaced them with superbly made Chinese items off eBay for about $400 for both. I had to replace several wires in the wiring loom which had suffered badly around the crimped bits and blade connectors. The engine cranked over but would not start so I moved on to the fuel tank. The fuel tank is a SS unit, 80 litres mounted under the cockpit. There was a flush-mounted filler in the teak cockpit floor not properly sealed and about 150mm directly under that the fuel filler cap almost flush in the top of the tank. The shipwright strikes again! Water from the cockpit has been dripping directly onto the threads of the fuel cap and contaminating the diesel and there was the bug. The tank has no access panel. I sucked out the diesel and replaced it with 15 litres of fresh diesel. I polished this diesel for a while but it was never going to get really clean so I sucked that out again. Added another 15 litres and polished that over a few days. Just an hour a day or so till it was spotless. The deck filler now sits 20mm higher on a plastic base and I turned up a dome cover that fits on top of the tank lid so that any moisture runs off.
I then spent several days trying to get the engine to fire. Cranked fine but there seemed to be no compression. The glow plugs were fine. I cranked the engine with the rocker cover off and all the valves seemed to be fine. I suspected the rings might be stuck in but I had soaked them with diesel earlier on. I eventually gave the rockers a gentle tap with a hammer. My mate who made a point of staying away from the engine reckoned to just crank the crap out of it! So after several attempts, I was leaning over the engine and I thought it was firing so I cut the power to the starter and she was running! It was at idle and really quiet but when I put the throttle up she sounded good. During the first 10 minutes, there was the occasional noise of a sticking valve but that soon went away. I ran it for an hour or so. Now it starts instantly and runs as sweet as a nut.
Great result. Could have been a lot worse and more expensive. So satisfied I bet!
I made some major errors. We've had a leaky sterngland so we paid $$ to get a new coupling modified, stern gland fitted, etc. I also anti-fouled, had some checks done, etc. Got the mooring checked. Got the new sail cover fitted. Replaced a leaky window. Rebedded sojme fittings. Cleaned and polished the boat.
It's a disaster. I no longer have a decent excuse to drive the 4+ hours down to check the boat. I know she's fine. It doesn't help that the North Arm Cove (Port Stephens) community is so full of helpful yachties that people are already keeping an eye on the boat.
So now we can only wander down to the bottom of the yard, past the 'roo paddock, and sail on our little private lake.
I still can't get an answer on the 10km or LGA issue that Lazzz's screen shot mentioned above. No one says whether one can move within the greater of 10km or one's LGA, or the lesser of 10km or one's LGA. I hope it's the former, or those of us who live in the country can't get into town. We'll be forced to live off 'roos and bathtub gin, but at least at our place we can go sailing.
Select to expand quoteChris 249 said..
I made some major errors. We've had a leaky sterngland so we paid $$ to get a new coupling modified, stern gland fitted, etc. I also anti-fouled, had some checks done, etc. Got the mooring checked. Got the new sail cover fitted. Replaced a leaky window. Rebedded sojme fittings. Cleaned and polished the boat.
It's a disaster. I no longer have a decent excuse to drive the 4+ hours down to check the boat. I know she's fine. It doesn't help that the North Arm Cove (Port Stephens) community is so full of helpful yachties that people are already keeping an eye on the boat.
So now we can only wander down to the bottom of the yard, past the 'roo paddock, and sail on our little private lake.
I still can't get an answer on the 10km or LGA issue that Lazzz's screen shot mentioned above. No one says whether one can move within the greater of 10km or one's LGA, or the lesser of 10km or one's LGA. I hope it's the former, or those of us who live in the country can't get into town. We'll be forced to live off 'roos and bathtub gin, but at least at our place we can go sailing.
Yeah I made the mistake of leaving my boat on Lake Macquarie when I live near near Pittwater thinking I would fix up/modify a few things first and explore the lake a bit. Now it's nearly 100 km away and although I rang Water Police Sydney head office a month ago and got the name of a Senior Constable and his number who said it was ok to go and check on my boat (once I slightly exaggerated that it was 33 years old and had a leaky stern gland) I'm not game to actually go. Before I rang him I rang Lake Macquarie Command and they said they didn't think it was ok and I'm damn sure that the half a dozen people who live in the houses that overlook my boat and know I come from Sydney would probably dob me in seeing everyone is so paranoid about the flue and parochial. I may be legally justified but if somebody hands out a fine it would be a pain in the ass have to go to court and prove it. Mind you seeing as this Lockdown seems likely to last 4 months in total I think that most boats should be checked on at least a couple of times during that length of time.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Welded up and installed a bar to hold the spinnaker and topping lifts clear of the mast today. How people can live without these I don't know! Slatting halyards have me reaching for the razor blades!
i agree but i take the toppers about 400 mm forward of the mast to aid the jib sheet not foulling on mast hardware
Select to expand quoteboty said..Ramona said..
Welded up and installed a bar to hold the spinnaker and topping lifts clear of the mast today. How people can live without these I don't know! Slatting halyards have me reaching for the razor blades!
i agree but i take the toppers about 400 mm forward of the mast to aid the jib sheet not foulling on mast hardware
The baby stay keeps the sheets clear. I had an adjustable inner forestay about mid deck that I have shifted back to about the same place as the baby stay on a stock SS34.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..boty said..Ramona said..
Welded up and installed a bar to hold the spinnaker and topping lifts clear of the mast today. How people can live without these I don't know! Slatting halyards have me reaching for the razor blades!
i agree but i take the toppers about 400 mm forward of the mast to aid the jib sheet not foulling on mast hardware
The baby stay keeps the sheets clear. I had an adjustable inner forestay about mid deck that I have shifted back to about the same place as the baby stay on a stock SS34.
so you have no forward lowers so much better for sheeting the blade inboard im jealous
