Probably best that the measuring has been done then. A bit light early on.
But filled in nicely by about one.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
I'm only looking at the bark on the tree the yacht in the background is just a bit out of focus.
Well you had to throw it out there southace. The photo is about context, as in the framing of the shot.
The framing of the shot is more important than the quality of the shot, as in capturing the moment.
You have posted some beautiful underwater photos, obviously you have a higher capability camera than I.
Back to you.
Finally got the Sonata back from getting its first antifoul including etch,epoxy etc. plus new keel rope from Ship Shape Ships at Horizon Shores . I said there was no rush so a few urgent jobs pushed mine back to 30 plus days . As a thanks they gave her foc a complete acid wash and cut and polish of the hull. The topsides were crying out for a cut and polish to match the hull .I purchased a buffing machine from Super Cheap Auto for $35 . The salesman ,a boatie, recommended Sepitone cut and wax even though they don't sell it. Did today the cockpit and topsides .
My goodness not only was it easy as with the buffer but the finish was brilliant. For stubborn stains and rub marks I used white vinegar with a rag first. She looks almost new again .
Select to expand quotePhoenixStar said..Twohull said..
It will make anchoring easier, so far instaled but no wiring done yet, midle deck was foam sadwich and was replaced with 18mm hard wood plywood. Should I invest in chain counter? What pros or cones?
Rode counters are luverly particularly if you have a remote up/down switch aft. Not too hard to install and save all that chain marking/mark watching bother. Maxwell have them.
Thanks PhoenixS, I decided on "cheap and nasty" solution: two water resistant momentary switches on 5m long triple wire appliances cable, old markings on chain still OK, no chain counter needed. This way control of the anchor winch can be done from any place on the boat.
Got the local shipwright to fit stainless full length hinges on my Saloon table. Routed , glued and screwed total cost $210 dollars! And ordered a new fridge $1800 dollars! Happy Christmas southace and Icon.
Select to expand quoteBananabender said..
Finally got the Sonata back from getting its first antifoul including etch,epoxy etc. plus new keel rope from Ship Shape Ships at Horizon Shores . I said there was no rush so a few urgent jobs pushed mine back to 30 plus days . As a thanks they gave her foc a complete acid wash and cut and polish of the hull. The topsides were crying out for a cut and polish to match the hull .I purchased a buffing machine from Super Cheap Auto for $35 . The salesman ,a boatie, recommended Sepitone cut and wax even though they don't sell it. Did today the cockpit and topsides .
My goodness not only was it easy as with the buffer but the finish was brilliant. For stubborn stains and rub marks I used white vinegar with a rag first. She looks almost new again .
I'd love to see photos BB. Did you think ahead and take any pre and post polish piccies?
Says he who never remembers to!
Your not wrong Shaggy , Forgot to take pics after giving the top sides a polish . Must not forget next time says I
Pre acid wash and hull polish
Post hull polish
Report from ship shape was keel and hull in very good condition
Post hull ,pre top sides cut and polish. Since added lifelines, and some new running rigging
Here are some details of a big job on Currawong. This will be of interest to other owners of Baker built Magpies and Brolgas and anyone considering sub $20K boats with integral steel work.
When I bought the boat, I was always worried about the steel ring frame unit that the mast sits on. It was corroded, but based on an opinion from a surveyor, rigger, support from this forum and generous tapping of a hammer I got some comfort that it was ok. You can see the original in the video that Ramona found in another post on this forum. Looks pretty good doesn't it ?
The boat creaked and moaned inside when driven hard. A while later, on closer inspection with a big hit from a hammer I was able to get a screw driver easily right through the frame. It looks like a previous owner sanded down the rusty flakes and painted over the metal to make it look sound. Most of the corrosion was inaccessible where the frame sat in bilge water. The entire thing was on the verge of collapse. I looked at lots of options, but ended up replacing the original steel unit with an identical stainless steel replica. The cost was not as much as you might think and is keeping with the original style of the boat. Fleming Marine did most of the excellent work. All the creaks and moans are gone and the boat feels much stiffer.
Quite amazing how strongly built the Currawongs are. The ring frame floats above the keel, but is solidly bolted onto two longitudinally bulkheads that run behind the benches. Despite this there must be big forces involved with the chain plates so far inboard and the frame in tension keeps the two longitudinal bulkheads tied together. I guess this also helps generate space for the generous head room the boat provides.
Here it is just after removal.
Locating the new unit in place. On the floor behind the frame you can see two 10kg lead weights that were glassed in a void. I removed these and are replaced with emergency anchor chain.
Old and new side by side, both weigh the same. The original was used as a jig as it was slightly asymmetrical and probably cut to fit in the Baker ship yard.
It is much worse in the flesh than these two shots suggests.
Here it is today. You wouldn't know it was replaced.
Select to expand quoteBananabender said..
Your not wrong Shaggy , Forgot to take pics after giving the top sides a polish . Must not forget next time says I
Pre acid wash and hull polish
Post hull polish
Report from ship shape was keel and hull in very good condition
Select to expand quotepost cut and polish topsides
Select to expand quotecisco said..
The offset is that when she is on this mooring the annual licence fee is $50. Fifteen minutes from leaving home I am onboard the yacht.
Just wondered how much you charge the cockatoos for rousting Cisco 
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Should only post progress pictures on this thread some people lack that.
Oh!! Appy Polly Loggys.
I will keep that in mind and only post pics of progress. Watch this space.
Select to expand quoteAndrew68 said..
Here are some details of a big job on Currawong. This will be of interest to other owners of Baker built Magpies and Brolgas and anyone considering sub $20K boats with integral steel work.
When I bought the boat, I was always worried about the steel ring frame unit that the mast sits on. It was corroded, but based on an opinion from a surveyor, rigger, support from this forum and generous tapping of a hammer I got some comfort that it was ok. You can see the original in the video that Ramona found in another post on this forum. Looks pretty good doesn't it ?
The boat creaked and moaned inside when driven hard. A while later, on closer inspection with a big hit from a hammer I was able to get a screw driver easily right through the frame. It looks like a previous owner sanded down the rusty flakes and painted over the metal to make it look sound. Most of the corrosion was inaccessible where the frame sat in bilge water. The entire thing was on the verge of collapse. I looked at lots of options, but ended up replacing the original steel unit with an identical stainless steel replica. The cost was not as much as you might think and is keeping with the original style of the boat. Fleming Marine did most of the excellent work. All the creaks and moans are gone and the boat feels much stiffer.
Quite amazing how strongly built the Currawongs are. The ring frame floats above the keel, but is solidly bolted onto two longitudinally bulkheads that run behind the benches. Despite this there must be big forces involved with the chain plates so far inboard and the frame in tension keeps the two longitudinal bulkheads tied together. I guess this also helps generate space for the generous head room the boat provides.
Here it is just after removal.
Locating the new unit in place. On the floor behind the frame you can see two 10kg lead weights that were glassed in a void. I removed these and are replaced with emergency anchor chain.
Old and new side by side, both weigh the same. The original was used as a jig as it was slightly asymmetrical and probably cut to fit in the Baker ship yard.
It is much worse in the flesh than these two shots suggests.
Here it is today. You wouldn't know it was replaced.
nice job
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Should only post progress pictures on this thread some people lack that.
point taken
Seeking internet forum guidance.
So was it incorrect behaviour on my behalf to respond to Shaggy's measurement post with photos and comments about the race I thought he was preparing for.
Obviously nothing to do with what I did to my sailing boat today. ( other than sailing it)
Select to expand quoteSailMark said..
Seeking internet forum guidance.
So was it incorrect behaviour on my behalf to respond to Shaggy's measurement post with photos and comments about the race I thought he was preparing for.
Obviously nothing to do with what I did to my sailing boat today. ( other than sailing it)
G'day Sailmark,
God I hope it was not incorrect. I can't remember having a verbal conversation with anyone where a singular topic is ok and all other subjects are taboo! That would be utterly boring, and most times thread drifts can be most enjoyable!
Eventually the thread will reassert itself back to the topic.
I would hope that people feel encouraged to post whatever they like rather than not post anything at all.
My 2 c. Contributions should be applauded, not filtered.
Edit: btw , nice pictures!!
SB
I picked MB up from Gladesville Bridge Marina after her slip, anti foul and prop speed. Slips through the water much better now.
They were the cheapest quote I had in the harbour and have done a pretty good job.
Select to expand quoteMorningBird said..
I picked MB up from Gladesville Bridge Marina after her slip, anti foul and prop speed. Slips through the water much better now.
They were the cheapest quote I had in the harbour and have done a pretty good job.
Nothing like a clean bottom MB
Well I didn't do anything to my boat but I went down to Batemans Bay to check out my mates alloy Cole 42 out of the water.
I used to have a stink boat called pimples a Stacer centre console she was X pro and they never wired things to make her last
Took a couple of weeks but she never leaked again 
2 more days and my Christmas present arrives! Will post some before and after pics and reports.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
2 more days and my Christmas present arrives! Will post some before and after pics and reports.
Did you buy the water cooled version of the fan system?
I always felt the water cooled system might not be as good in the tropics? Bit like the sea water cooled motor
You should save up for some space engineered insulation Space Gel some one on ebay was selling some and the importer is in W.A. but it might be on Amazon by now also
www.aerogel.com.au/products-and-services/spaceloft
www.buyaerogel.com/product/spaceloft/
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerogel
The 4 main types of Aspen Aerogels that we distribute are: - Pyrogel? XT: Temperature range from -40?C to 650?C. Ideal for insulating piping, vessels, tanks, and equipment, Pyrogel? XT is an essential material for those seeking the ultimate in thermal efficiency. - Pyrogel? XTF: Temperature range from -40?C to 650?C. Similar to Pyrogel? XT in composition, Pyrogel? XTF has been specially formulated to provide exceptional protection against fire. - Spaceloft? B&C (Building & Construction): Temperature range from -40?C to 200?C Spaceloft? is a proven, effective insulator in building applications, providing the highest R-value of any insulation material for maximum energy efficiency in walls, floors, roofs, framing, and windows. - Cryogel? Z Temperature range from -200?C to 90?C Cryogel? Z 's unique properties -- extremely low thermal conductivity, superior flexibility, compression resistance, hydrophobicity, and ease of use -- make it essential for those seeking the ultimate in thermal protection for cryogenic applications.
Decided we needed more speed, so the bottom was painted red and the blue stripe changed to RED. She'll now be a force to be reckoned with !!!
I might have to try red also mines only had one coat of long life at the moment .Probably not the best choice so far .
Plus a prop mod as the 14 incher is a bit to bigger over drive for the gear box motor drive coupling I get hull speed at 1600 rpm bit low .
my Guess was a bit out .
So I have a 14 x 7 I think three blade with prop speed thats have very little use . Chit happens
Lifted my 1980 Endeavor 26 out of the water today.
First time I have seen the bottom since buying it a short time ago.
Well what do you know. Bloody blisters. I was half expecting them.
Spent the afternoon rubbing down the old antifoul and then grinding them out.
Will definitely slow me down.
Plus I have to fix that crack under the mainsheet and the rotten rib.
Lucky I took till Tuesday off from work.
Would have pictures, but the camera on my phone has decided to freeze the phone every time I try to use it!
Oze fridge is up and running great Australian made product and service. It requires some tuning up and have to plumb my water tanks into it some how but so far on fan and compressor the beers are cold!
The ozefridge controller is going to take the plate down to -10 and my thermostat in the blue should it around 4 degrees. Just the right temp for beers and prawns!
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
The ozefridge controller is going to take the plate down to -10 and my thermostat in the blue should it around 4 degrees. Just the right temp for beers and prawns!
You obviously don't like the taste of either beer or prawns, it's the only reason I can think of why you would consume them at that temperature.
