Select to expand quotehilly said..
Cannot believe how light I can get on foil now with the 4.2. Hard to gybe due to the light wind. Gust of 12 knots enough to get up on foil. Not what I thought when I started on the Pwing 
After watching Foilrat's "how to jibe" video, my success rate on the 4.2 is probably now 80% or higher in light winds:
Select to expand quotegneve said..hilly said..
Cannot believe how light I can get on foil now with the 4.2. Hard to gybe due to the light wind. Gust of 12 knots enough to get up on foil. Not what I thought when I started on the Pwing
After watching Foilrat's "how to jibe" video, my success rate on the 4.2 is probably now 80% or higher in light winds:?si=7VsBwQVYOkihXBoU
His latest video on using an old wing board has me thinking about dusting off my old 75L board.
When there is wind I am gybing no problems. I am talking about hitting a lull of 5 knots as you turn. Even if I grab a back line the parawing has no structure. I need to learn to tack but that skill is a work in progress.
Hi
Just bought a new 4.2m Dwing and not sure if I've ended up with a dud.
First parawing so not sure how they are meant to fly - seems to be pretty unstable and can't get it anywhere close to the edge of the wind window without it wanting to fly into the ground.
Is there a trick to this or should it fly better or do you need to stay well, well away from edge of the wind window?
Does anyone possibly have a video of one of the defective batch flying ?
Thanks
Select to expand quoteWindWaterSailAU said..
Hi
Just bought a new 4.2m Dwing and not sure if I've ended up with a dud.
First parawing so not sure how they are meant to fly - seems to be pretty unstable and can't get it anywhere close to the edge of the wind window without it wanting to fly into the ground.
Is there a trick to this or should it fly better or do you need to stay well, well away from edge of the wind window?
Does anyone possibly have a video of one of the defective batch flying ?
Thanks
They do not like flying at the edge of the window in light gusty wind. If you are standing on the beach in that type of wind they will not fly well. Take it out in consistent 15 knots plus to work out how to fly it.
For peace of mind, you can email the serial number to dwing@flowparagliders.com.au and they will let you know if it is part of the defective batch.
Is there anything interesting coming in the v2, if anyone has secret gossip? It would have to be significantly exciting to make me want to engage with them again.
Select to expand quotehilly said..WindWaterSailAU said..
Hi
Just bought a new 4.2m Dwing and not sure if I've ended up with a dud.
First parawing so not sure how they are meant to fly - seems to be pretty unstable and can't get it anywhere close to the edge of the wind window without it wanting to fly into the ground.
Is there a trick to this or should it fly better or do you need to stay well, well away from edge of the wind window?
Does anyone possibly have a video of one of the defective batch flying ?
Thanks
They do not like flying at the edge of the window in light gusty wind. If you are standing on the beach in that type of wind they will not fly well. Take it out in consistent 15 knots plus to work out how to fly it.
For peace of mind, you can email the serial number to dwing@flowparagliders.com.au and they will let you know if it is part of the defective batch.
Where does one find the serial number on the D wing ?
Select to expand quotegneve said..
I just recently received my 4.2 Flow and while I don't have a ton of experience with parawings, it feels as if something is off. Just practicing on the beach, when the wing gets to the edge of the window, it has a strong tendency to continue to rotate and go leading edge down. No input on the bar seems to recover from this behavior. The only thing I can do is grab the trailing edge lines on the side to which I want to turn and give them a pull. I have reached out to Flow but have yet to hear back.
Is your replacement able to sit on the edge of the window without that rotation onto the leading edge ?
Select to expand quoteWindWaterSailAU said..hilly said..WindWaterSailAU said..
Hi
Just bought a new 4.2m Dwing and not sure if I've ended up with a dud.
First parawing so not sure how they are meant to fly - seems to be pretty unstable and can't get it anywhere close to the edge of the wind window without it wanting to fly into the ground.
Is there a trick to this or should it fly better or do you need to stay well, well away from edge of the wind window?
Does anyone possibly have a video of one of the defective batch flying ?
Thanks
They do not like flying at the edge of the window in light gusty wind. If you are standing on the beach in that type of wind they will not fly well. Take it out in consistent 15 knots plus to work out how to fly it.
For peace of mind, you can email the serial number to dwing@flowparagliders.com.au and they will let you know if it is part of the defective batch.
Where does one find the serial number on the D wing ?
On the email they send you eg D-Wing DW4#### 4.2m
Select to expand quoteWindWaterSailAU said..gneve said..
I just recently received my 4.2 Flow and while I don't have a ton of experience with parawings, it feels as if something is off. Just practicing on the beach, when the wing gets to the edge of the window, it has a strong tendency to continue to rotate and go leading edge down. No input on the bar seems to recover from this behavior. The only thing I can do is grab the trailing edge lines on the side to which I want to turn and give them a pull. I have reached out to Flow but have yet to hear back.
Is your replacement able to sit on the edge of the window without that rotation onto the leading edge ?
I used my replacement 4.2 a handful of times in the gorge and while I was drastically overpowered, the dwing behaved really well. I should've been out on a 3m most of the time but that's the only parawing I own. That being said, riding overpowered makes getting on foil so much easier. Only problem was that once up, I was flying on the front lines and trying to bleed as much power as possible.
I have a couple of updates to share with my Dwings.
Earlier this year I posted about using my 4.2m for a downwinder in 30 knot winds. Since then I have done quite a few downwinders in similar conditions. I dont have a 3m just yet and this winter we've had a lot of really strong storm fronts. Holding onto the 4.2m in strong gusty winds is difficult and messy. It flaps about wildly and can be difficult to control. The hardest part is getting going, once up on foil moving downwind it becomes quite manageable. I think over 35 knots is the limo where it's just not controllable. Riding in these conditions undoubtedly thrashs the wing although as of yet haven't noticed much difference in performance. If overall it's not pretty but it does get the job done and has enabled me to get some really good downwinders in over winter.
Second update is that Ive managed to have a good session on the 5.5m. Previous sessions were all messed up either by too much seaweed, wind dropping to nothing or wind picking up too much for the 5.5m. I really can't hold onto the 5.5 in overpowered conditions like I can the 4.2, one session the wind picked up to about 25 knots and I got completely blown off the water.
I had managed a couple good upwind downwind runs with successful wadding and redeploy. The long lines definitely make it a lot more difficult. I saw some posts about people wrapping their lines on the ozone PR to shorten them so I thought I'd give that a go and it has worked well. Now with the shorter lines I can easily reach the canopy and am getting a much better success rate with my wadding and redeploy. Yesterday I managed to have a proper good session with a lot of good upwind downwind runs. Stowing/ wadding and redeploying takes more time and focus than the 4.2m but it's not that big of a difference, maybe 30% harder. Once you've got it wadded up nicely there's a bit more to carry but again it's not a giant difference.
For the line shortening it's quite easy to do, fully reversible and hasn't seemed to cause any damage to the line or the bar ( so far, no guarantees).
Undo the grey pigtail that connects the lines to the black webbing loop that comes up off the bar. It helps to tie a string through the loops on the lines to keep them organised. Pass the ends of the lines through the black webbing loops on the bar, this stops them moving up and down the bar. Use the lines to make a full 360 wrap around the bar ( could do a double wrap if you want to go really short). Use the grey pigtail to connect the end of the lines around the base of the black webbing loop. Make sure it's all pulled down tight and then it will be nice and even for each line set.
Its made stowing and redeploy much easier and made the wing more responsive in jybes. Haven't noticed any difference in low end or upwind.
Select to expand quoteYoungbreezy said..
I have a couple of updates to share with my Dwings.
Earlier this year I posted about using my 4.2m for a downwinder in 30 knot winds. Since then I have done quite a few downwinders in similar conditions. I dont have a 3m just yet and this winter we've had a lot of really strong storm fronts. Holding onto the 4.2m in strong gusty winds is difficult and messy. It flaps about wildly and can be difficult to control. The hardest part is getting going, once up on foil moving downwind it becomes quite manageable. I think over 35 knots is the limo where it's just not controllable. Riding in these conditions undoubtedly thrashs the wing although as of yet haven't noticed much difference in performance. If overall it's not pretty but it does get the job done and has enabled me to get some really good downwinders in over winter.
Second update is that Ive managed to have a good session on the 5.5m. Previous sessions were all messed up either by too much seaweed, wind dropping to nothing or wind picking up too much for the 5.5m. I really can't hold onto the 5.5 in overpowered conditions like I can the 4.2, one session the wind picked up to about 25 knots and I got completely blown off the water.
I had managed a couple good upwind downwind runs with successful wadding and redeploy. The long lines definitely make it a lot more difficult. I saw some posts about people wrapping their lines on the ozone PR to shorten them so I thought I'd give that a go and it has worked well. Now with the shorter lines I can easily reach the canopy and am getting a much better success rate with my wadding and redeploy. Yesterday I managed to have a proper good session with a lot of good upwind downwind runs. Stowing/ wadding and redeploying takes more time and focus than the 4.2m but it's not that big of a difference, maybe 30% harder. Once you've got it wadded up nicely there's a bit more to carry but again it's not a giant difference.
For the line shortening it's quite easy to do, fully reversible and hasn't seemed to cause any damage to the line or the bar ( so far, no guarantees).
Undo the grey pigtail that connects the lines to the black webbing loop that comes up off the bar. It helps to tie a string through the loops on the lines to keep them organised. Pass the ends of the lines through the black webbing loops on the bar, this stops them moving up and down the bar. Use the lines to make a full 360 wrap around the bar ( could do a double wrap if you want to go really short). Use the grey pigtail to connect the end of the lines around the base of the black webbing loop. Make sure it's all pulled down tight and then it will be nice and even for each line set.
Its made stowing and redeploy much easier and made the wing more responsive in jybes. Haven't noticed any difference in low end or upwind.
thanks for sharing the info!
Select to expand quoteYoungbreezy said..
I have a couple of updates to share with my Dwings.
Earlier this year I posted about using my 4.2m for a downwinder in 30 knot winds. Since then I have done quite a few downwinders in similar conditions. I dont have a 3m just yet and this winter we've had a lot of really strong storm fronts. Holding onto the 4.2m in strong gusty winds is difficult and messy. It flaps about wildly and can be difficult to control. The hardest part is getting going, once up on foil moving downwind it becomes quite manageable. I think over 35 knots is the limo where it's just not controllable. Riding in these conditions undoubtedly thrashs the wing although as of yet haven't noticed much difference in performance. If overall it's not pretty but it does get the job done and has enabled me to get some really good downwinders in over winter.
Second update is that Ive managed to have a good session on the 5.5m. Previous sessions were all messed up either by too much seaweed, wind dropping to nothing or wind picking up too much for the 5.5m. I really can't hold onto the 5.5 in overpowered conditions like I can the 4.2, one session the wind picked up to about 25 knots and I got completely blown off the water.
I had managed a couple good upwind downwind runs with successful wadding and redeploy. The long lines definitely make it a lot more difficult. I saw some posts about people wrapping their lines on the ozone PR to shorten them so I thought I'd give that a go and it has worked well. Now with the shorter lines I can easily reach the canopy and am getting a much better success rate with my wadding and redeploy. Yesterday I managed to have a proper good session with a lot of good upwind downwind runs. Stowing/ wadding and redeploying takes more time and focus than the 4.2m but it's not that big of a difference, maybe 30% harder. Once you've got it wadded up nicely there's a bit more to carry but again it's not a giant difference.
For the line shortening it's quite easy to do, fully reversible and hasn't seemed to cause any damage to the line or the bar ( so far, no guarantees).
Undo the grey pigtail that connects the lines to the black webbing loop that comes up off the bar. It helps to tie a string through the loops on the lines to keep them organised. Pass the ends of the lines through the black webbing loops on the bar, this stops them moving up and down the bar. Use the lines to make a full 360 wrap around the bar ( could do a double wrap if you want to go really short). Use the grey pigtail to connect the end of the lines around the base of the black webbing loop. Make sure it's all pulled down tight and then it will be nice and even for each line set.
Its made stowing and redeploy much easier and made the wing more responsive in jybes. Haven't noticed any difference in low end or upwind.
Thanks will try.
i find the 3m lines longer than then need to be.
