John let me have a few runs on his 8.6m Evo4 today and the cam rotation is diabolical!
On the plus side, if you are lucky enough/strong enough to pop one over the rest follow.
Was stuck for couple of minutes after gybing and could not pop the cams over.Tried to push back hand as far down the boom as possible but still impossible.
If you fall off the plane while gybing,good luck with rotating the cams.
The boom could have been extended a cm or two longer but then you lose that edge of bottom end.
Don't use my 7m warp anymore as i can't get it to rotate properly.
Problem of cam rotation on modern sails is far from being solved.
My Reflex 4's are pretty stiff as well but a very helpful fella advised me that with the severne's if you pop the foot cam first the others will follow. sure enough he was right lol
the world is conspiring against him again
Its either that or he's too weak from eating non sheeple food
because he used someones poorly rigged sail rigged
because he used someones poorly rigged sail rigged 
& the sales person will be able to show you how to tune it, simple really 
& the sales person will be able to show you how to tune it, simple really
I used an Evo once and couldn't get the cams to rotate either.
I also couldn't get them to rotate on a couple of my Koncepts until I removed some spacers and reduced the batten tension. Now they rotate beautifully for me. It wasn't a problem with the sails, they worked perfectly for their previous owners, it was just that I wasn't strong enough (or had good enough technique) to pop the cams over with high skin tension. Wind strength plays a part too.
When a sail is yours you can play with things like spacers. When you are sailing someone else's you have to stick with their settings. Sometimes they will work for you, sometimes they won't, especially if they belong to a really good speed sailor who likes a lot of skin tension for foil stability.
One of my favourite quotes that I often use to motivate myself is from an old baseball movie called a league of their own. Tom Hanks is the coach of the team and when one of his best players decides to quit because it is too hard Tom Hanks replies "It's supposed to be hard. It's the hard that makes it good. If it was easy, everybody would do it"
How this relates to windsurfing gear is this, if the fastest state of the art equipment was easy to use everybody would be riding it, except they wouldn't because it just doesn't work that way. Somebody will always take that fast easy to use gear and mess with it in a way that makes it harder to use but faster than the easy stuff. It's human nature to fiddle with things to see how far we can push it before it breaks. Fastest and best will never be easy and thank god for that.
Was not slagging off any sail maker,just making the very valid point that modern fully cambered race sails even in this present day have a long way to go before reasonable rotation is achieved. The Evo4 i'm sure is a terrific sail but for rotation alone i would not buy one.Perhaps it's as easy reducing batten tension and taking out a few spacers. From my experience with cammed sails the roller cams of previous years had the smoothest rotation.
As Windxtasy said some people sacrifice cam rotation for a super stiff Rig.
I've used my mates NP sails before and always found them hard to Rotate but I know he applies a lot of cam and batten tension.
They will rotate but you need to be aggressive through ya gybe.
If you really want a Race that Rotates easy, try one that rigs on an RDM mast.
I find that you also need to be fully powered for effective rotation, no use complaning about cam ratation if you are only using sails at their bottom end(which lightweights might be doing). You shouldn't have to pump to plane at the very least.
Peter
Was the sail rigged on the recommended mast and tuned to the recommended settings?
If no then the review is of no value.
I have to say my evos (2,4&5) rotate superbly albeit my 8.6 is an e2.
In any case I am about your size and have zero issues with rotation of any of my 6 evos.
Or my 10.7 reflex for that matter..
One thing that can make rotation hard,and I recon this is what you experienced, is having the boom set too short. The batten above the boom has too straighten fully to change from one side to another.
When this happens the edge of the sail at the clew can hit the inside of the boom thus resulting in the sail struggling to change sides or tacks, this resistance will impede rotation for sure.
This can be fixed by extending the boom a cm or so,this issue would be the same for most sails.
Just my opinion..
Just found this thread, It was my sail,in its defence, rigged on wrong mast (one of the few I have left!) for zero wind ,ie less than recomended down and out haul,as Snides points out a little more boom length would have made rotation a lot easier.
I bought a NP MK3 or 4 slalom and when i put extra negative outhaul i had major trouble with rotation also. Thinking these Pryde sails are designed more for neutral outhaul rather than lots of negative,possibly due to the unusual clew design.
Was pretty funny being stuck in the middle of the river for a few minutes with no way to rotate the sail,short of a boot to one of the lower cams.
Recycle,you should have bought a 8.6m loft instead,mine rotates quite beautifully even with heaps of negative,rigged on a old Arrows 490.
I'm a bit confused....how do you have 'negative' outhaul? Surely if you put no outhaul on at all except basically tieing off the slack then that is neutral...??? Pulling on it creates positive outhaul does it not? I didn't realise you could actually have negative unless you were running way too short a boom and the sail was creased over to fit.
Hmm... I must be getting old, and had too long a break from the sport. Last sails I had before my current ones were all rigged with negative outhaul!!
Sailing with negative outhaul will always cause the sail to be difficult to initiate the battens to start to roll. Only use negative outhaul for downwind speed set up. You should get outhaul back on before you gybe if possible. If powered up there is not much of an issue.
Setting up close to recommended numbers should have easier rotation.
I just bought a KA race from Peter and he had major trouble with rotation. In his defence the sail is a 2012 proto type so the downhaul number does not correspond to correct setting. So I suspect Peter set it to the marking on the sail and it probably will not rotate at all.
Peter I rigged it on a Powerex z speed mast and a NP X9 and both had easy no trouble rotation of the cams. Close to 6cm less than printed as it has the 2011 numbers on sail. Rotates better than all my other race sails.
I think that it is a common mistake to rig with too much downhaul if not powered up to ideal conditions and I see this all the time. Big difference 1-2cm downhaul makes.
When you go downwind at about 120-130 degrees apparent wind then you need to twist more so the sail does not stall and that's why you need to have negative outhaul. Get it back on to neutral or slight positive when at 90 degrees or less apparent wind angle. You don't need as much twist now, and the outhaul works like a boom vang on a normal sailing boat to stand the leach up for more power. (yes more power and control).
Sorry if it sounds like a sailing lesson, but I am an international sailing coach and I hear and see all sorts of BS
