Can't wait for it to get here. Board doesn't give anywhere near that great railing feeling that I remember.
Also as mentioned above by the other guy's, I can compare fin size/performance properly. (Sorry different thread).
Good thing the fin in the photo is also coming.
Board is no good without adjustable mast track either.
Now I'm more suitably inspired to restore it.
i am sure that the center board is standard , that mast track is missing the stainless steel slider and the top plastic plate. i made the top plate out of a old chopping board, the slider plate can be made out of some stainless steel 1/8 plate i can take photos if you need.the board does not rail like my eliminator or my imco as the speed is a bit wider but it still performs good
Great to see old raceboards being restored but it would be a sin to just stop at that. Old raceboards want to be raced, its in there dna, its what makes them happy.
Sail Brisbane in a few weeks, there is a raceboard division, see you there
Ok so ive got the board. Not watertight. Usual chine issues n mast track not moving but all parts there. Generally in good condition. Who is the mast track guru for these SPEED boards?
Peter Nitschkie at Landsborough, but he's away till late July, I think it is. (Wind and Surf).
Very good, and affordable repairs.
Thanks Grich, photo's would be a great help mate, if it's not too much trouble.
Cheers
Darren










the other way is to screw a chinok style base plate to the car ,or make a new car to suit
the center board has been repaired with carbon and balsa ,but the top half is orignal
Hi Greg, just picked up board. It needs a bit of TLC before we hit the water. Usual chine issues. Formula mast track about double the width of SR250L(SR250L n SS125L same.) No notched plate for car to locate. Seems to lock down either edge of track. Will post some pics asap. ![]()
Oh I see, it's the old Tyronsea brass end that goes into it??? Pretty sure I have some of those.
Can make those bit's easy enough.
I note the ball bearing. Should the tab's point upwards to be able to shift it with a screwdriver, or no?
Thank's heaps for going to the trouble to do that.
Cheers.
Oh I see, it's the old Tyronsea brass end that goes into it??? Pretty sure I have some of those.
Can make those bit's easy enough.
I note the ball bearing. Should the tab's point upwards to be able to shift it with a screwdriver, or no?
Thank's heaps for going to the trouble to do that.
Cheers.
there is small spring under the ball bearing and a detent in the plate,you can tighten the screws to stop the plate sliding.the tangs face down and are tapered to stop it interfering with the lock mechanism. the original pin is smaller than a tyronsea pin but you can drill it out to a bigger size mine will fit the bic or mystal pin
Hey Jungleman, and Grich. Do you know if they are both original centerboards?
The entire rig came with everything including a board cover + a selection of fins + the two centreboards. I am guessing they are the originals.
All this talk of longboards has got me jealous , I like to float around on a nice day and my boards are sooo slow sub planing .
One more board couldn't hurt could it ?
I don't know what is a good thing , i have a formula board which I covered in foam that is now kid and dog friendly and it goes upwind surprisingly good ( perfect learner board but that's another story ) , but it's slow. I can't go a old heavy plastic thing , any suggestions ?
Anyone with a snapped in half phantom going cheap ?
All this talk of longboards has got me jealous , I like to float around on a nice day and my boards are sooo slow sub planing .
One more board couldn't hurt could it ?
I don't know what is a good thing , i have a formula board which I covered in foam that is now kid and dog friendly and it goes upwind surprisingly good ( perfect learner board but that's another story ) , but it's slow. I can't go a old heavy plastic thing , any suggestions ?
Anyone with a snapped in half phantom going cheap ?
i have 3 race boards up here , i will sell the speed but,you will have to come up here and prove you are committed to owning a race board ,they require more love than a wife and more maintenance than a helicopter, but pay you back by being able to sail when kites can not.and are just cruisy.
All this talk of longboards has got me jealous , I like to float around on a nice day and my boards are sooo slow sub planing .
One more board couldn't hurt could it ?
I don't know what is a good thing , i have a formula board which I covered in foam that is now kid and dog friendly and it goes upwind surprisingly good ( perfect learner board but that's another story ) , but it's slow. I can't go a old heavy plastic thing , any suggestions ?
Anyone with a snapped in half phantom going cheap ?
All this talk of longboards has got me jealous , I like to float around on a nice day and my boards are sooo slow sub planing .
One more board couldn't hurt could it ?
I don't know what is a good thing , i have a formula board which I covered in foam that is now kid and dog friendly and it goes upwind surprisingly good ( perfect learner board but that's another story ) , but it's slow. I can't go a old heavy plastic thing , any suggestions ?
Anyone with a snapped in half phantom going cheap ?
i have 3 race boards up here , i will sell the speed but,you will have to come up here and prove you are committed to owning a race board ,they require more love than a wife and more maintenance than a helicopter, but pay you back by being able to sail when kites can not.and are just cruisy.
The wife bit is easy and the mainainance I would love but a sixty hour round road trip , that is commitment.
So ive cleaned up the board. Tweaked the mast track adjuster. Taped the one minor ding. Screwed a 35cm Flying objects freeride fin in the US box. Found the centreboard cassette slides straight thru the board?? Seems there may be a lip missing at top of pvc cassette?? Water test time. Flukey light wind. 8m Cheetah. No centreboard.This board points much higher than IMCO. A much faster, more manouverable ride. Hull is quite stiff. Planing along with a rooster tail of water flying up thru centreboard slot. Found one slot gasket completely gone. So packed it up. , Rebuild time.... STOKED with the performance !!![]()
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So ive cleaned up the board. Tweaked the mast track adjuster. Taped the one minor ding. Screwed a 35cm Flying objects freeride fin in the US box. Found the centreboard cassette slides straight thru the board?? Seems there may be a lip missing at top of pvc cassette?? Water test time. Flukey light wind. 8m Cheetah. No centreboard.This board points much higher than IMCO. A much faster, more manouverable ride. Hull is quite stiff. Planing along with a rooster tail of water flying up thru centreboard slot. Found one slot gasket completely gone. So packed it up. , Rebuild time.... STOKED with the performance !!![]()
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make up the cassette out of 3 mm alloy plate ,cut out the plan shape and bend over the same size wood bend the ears in a vice .a road trip up here and ill sort it for you
Grich sounds good mate. If i make it to Tville i will be leaving with your SR250L. Then i will have Speed SS125L n Two variants of SR250L. Yep im a SPEED freak. ![]()
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Centreboard issues. Seems something broken/missing from edge of the pvc cassette closest to handle.


Cassette slips straight thru board.

Were the countersunk screws on either side of centreboard case used to locate the cassette permanently? Or was it the norm to remove the cassette/centreboard to store or transport the board? Who is in the know? Easy enough to reproduce the cassette from pvc. But id like to know its shape n dimensions etc, as id like to keep it as original as can be. Cheers.
Hope this helps, the material is 3.2mm thick, hard grey plastic. The boards were shipped with centre boards installed, held in with the two screws. They rairly needed removing for maintenance, it was the track that tended to require more loving.
Not a board to ride without booties, lots of sharp things to hurt your feet. Interestingly, one fail was that Steve didn't fit a towing eye to his race boards, a requirement under class rules, so if you find a board with a towing eye, it has been raced.



Airsail thats AWESOME!! Just what i was looking for.
Thanks for the pics n knowledge. Might see if i can fabricate new cassette from aluminium. Or should i stick with Pvc? No towing eye on my board. Serial no 91018. So its board number 18 made in 1991.
After sailing the board n leaving in the sun for a bit ive got 2 saltwater geysers bubbling from the hull. So i weighed it. 17.5kg
with standard screw down footstraps, centreboard n 35cm fin. Surprisingly light.
Repair time....
these boards were made in the eighties in south east queensland from scratch!
fun times, like in industrial estates at the port of brisbane close to wellington point
cool stuff that you guys still rate them ![]()
Thanks for the reply Greenleader! Were you involved in any construction? Any idea of how deck grip was done? Im doing some minor repairs n bringing into the new millenium. Looking to gather as much knowledge as i can on these fine old boards. Cheers
Update time. So I drained the board. Epoxied the dings n leaks. Just the cosmetic finishing/sanding to go. Faired the centreboard n remade the pvc cassette.Then shimmed to suit housing in hull.Replaced the footstraps. Hit the water again. Board sails great, upwind on the rail like a freight train. Awesome
Changing the straps has brought about another leak. So back to baking in the sun again.
This time using a wick of paper in the leaking screw hole. ( thanks Grich62
) Hopefully it'll be drained n sealed before the forecast wind arrives later next week.![]()
Ok guys this is the never ending thread. So now im keen to instal a ventscrew. Where to?
Down in front mastrack recess? (It clears the mastcar)
Or here?
I got my old raceboard out earlier in the year. The first windsurf for my grand daughter after a quick beach instruction we were away.
Roughly 30 year old board (1 owner) and 3 year old sail felt great in the extra light wind

