Select to expand quoteSandman1221 said..
Great repair job, but honestly seems like a waste of money from the customer's perspective!, unless the entire board top/rails/bottom was covered with a water tight outer-layer cause whatever you did not cover up is going to delaminate and then leak sooner or later based on the known construction problems.
Wrapping more glass around the whole board is not going to stop further delams, if there's an internal problem
Select to expand quotedecrepit said..Sandman1221 said..
Great repair job, but honestly seems like a waste of money from the customer's perspective!, unless the entire board top/rails/bottom was covered with a water tight outer-layer cause whatever you did not cover up is going to delaminate and then leak sooner or later based on the known construction problems.
Wrapping more glass around the whole board is not going to stop further delams, if there's an internal problem
Like putting lipstick on a pig 
Select to expand quotedecrepit said..Sandman1221 said..
Great repair job, but honestly seems like a waste of money from the customer's perspective!, unless the entire board top/rails/bottom was covered with a water tight outer-layer cause whatever you did not cover up is going to delaminate and then leak sooner or later based on the known construction problems.
Wrapping more glass around the whole board is not going to stop further delams, if there's an internal problem
Agree, you would have to make sure the new layer stuck to the core, presumably like Mark did for the repair of the delaminated deck. So clearly that board had a problem when constructed, I am just saying why not repair the whole board in stead of 3/4s? Reason is the cost to do that would of made it clear to the owner the board was not worth fixing!
I had the box from the new board ready to store the Naish board away until there is some free time. But reality is that every year I seem to be getting busier.
I'm going to put some thick aluminum foil tape over the Us boxes and use the board as a SUP for the summer season on a lake area.
Select to expand quoteSandman1221 said..decrepit said..Sandman1221 said..
Great repair job, but honestly seems like a waste of money from the customer's perspective!, unless the entire board top/rails/bottom was covered with a water tight outer-layer cause whatever you did not cover up is going to delaminate and then leak sooner or later based on the known construction problems.
Wrapping more glass around the whole board is not going to stop further delams, if there's an internal problem
Agree, you would have to make sure the new layer stuck to the core, presumably like Mark did for the repair of the delaminated deck. So clearly that board had a problem when constructed, I am just saying why not repair the whole board in stead of 3/4s? Reason is the cost to do that would of made it clear to the owner the board was not worth fixing!
Shoosh !
Mark _australia said..
"You get to keep the rails."
Comment of the week, that made me laugh Mark, your quite funny
And your too cheap $250 for all that work plus materials.
Select to expand quoteHenners said..
I'm going to put some thick aluminum foil tape over the Us boxes and use the board as a SUP for the summer season on a lake area.
I'm surfing mine with fins and don't notice any issues with the open foil boxes.
Select to expand quotekato said..Henners said..
I'm going to put some thick aluminum foil tape over the Us boxes and use the board as a SUP for the summer season on a lake area.
I'm surfing mine with fins and don't notice any issues with the open foil boxes.
Used to do the same.
But the water is getting into the board through the US boxes. So if I tape up the boxes then I can avoid more water getting in and get some more use out of the board.
Just hate throwing "good" stuff away.
Also agree Mark's repair is a bargain.
Select to expand quoteSandman1221 said..
And for the money the guy paid you to repair a lost cause board, he could of bought a good secondhand board!
Perhaps, however second hand boards that are the correct size and shape aren't always that cheap. Plenty of stuff that's expensive to ship, or the wrong size or wrong shape.
The customer likely knows the score.
Nowhere near it.
Nice to see tracks set in wood, that is a new one and would be a great insert. However that is relying upon the compression resistance of the foam (there is nil) to stop the tracks from sinking, and it has not enough glass over it.
(1) should wrap glass around track insert first so it comes up the sides and will meet (bond to) the outer laminate later. I'd do 2 x 4oz and a bit of carbon at least - dependent upon other construction factors
(2) needs about 4 extra patches on the tracks and then a couple of bigger ones over the whole tail and tapering up to front foot. I put more glass over FCS or Futures inserts on a kitebord than he has for foil tracks 
.
I'd not tape the boxes, good glassing technique means no resin in the boxes. What he has done there required sanding later to taper the glass down, so its really thin over the black plastic track, so not enough glass right where u want it, and edge is more likely to lift. Do it right with 6 plus layers over tracks and router out the slot later.
As an aside also - pouring resin like that is really bad on EPS, it will suck it up so bad and that's why he says "wow this is using more resin than I thought..."
At least he figures out to squeegee it later for the deck, but still pours too much in one area.... pour and squeegee in a line keep it moving and don't let it pool as the EPS is a sponge.
Brilliant product and I'd love to try the kit but as instructionals go its very basic, it will not last long.
