Select to expand quoteWillyWind said..
Okay, so I bought a used Patrik Aeon. The original owner bought it last November and realized it was too fast for him.
95m mast, 100 v1 fuse, 750 and 550 wings, and 190 stab. Really looking forward to trying it. I'm curious how different it will be compared to my IQfoil (115+ and 1000 wing). I will be using it with a starboard freeride 85cm wide board. I don't race but I like to point upwind. I know I need to try the setup, but do you think I will need the 110 fuse or the 900 wing to get similar light wind take off/upwind capability? I weigh 80kg.
I have changed from the IQ foil settup to the Patrick Aeon recently. I can tell you the aeon foil is much more stable and direct compared to the IQ. The glide is also better but i have the 750 front wing for the aeon compared to the 900 on the IQ. The lift is comparable with the 110 v1 fuse and i now mostly use the 100v2 and have no issues going upwind even in light winds (im 98kg). As there are no course races here curently, i do not need the 900 at all, but maybe in the future if i decide to go course racing.
The 550 is where it gets really fun in my opinion. The foil still has a lot of lift but i would say 12-13 knots wind is where i would switch to the 550. Its just a realy stable and fast foil.
Okay, today I had my first session. 750 front wing, 110 v1, 195 rear wing with 0 shim. Starboard freeride board (85cm) and 8.5 Sailworks flyer. I was concerned the foil would be hard to use but it is definitely more stable than my iQfoil. Even when the wind was very light to the point I was barely flying, I was able to gybe without touchdowns. I was surprised because in the same situation, it would be harder for me to do the same with the iQfoil. I agree with most who said that the faster you go, the more stable it gets. BTW, I am not a fast rider, I sail in a lake so the best I can do is freerace and up/down wind (point upwind and then go downwind either "fast" or play a little bit with the chop. Even though I have the 100 fuse, I was surprised with the upwind capability.
Having said that, I am thinking about getting the 110 fuse. Not sure which one though. Can someone please measure the distance between the front last screw and the front tip of the fuse of the 110 v1 and v2?
I am very exited about this foil.
Select to expand quoteWillyWind said..
Okay, today I had my first session. 750 front wing, 110 v1, 195 rear wing with 0 shim. Starboard freeride board (85cm) and 8.5 Sailworks flyer. I was concerned the foil would be hard to use but it is definitely more stable than my iQfoil. Even when the wind was very light to the point I was barely flying, I was able to gybe without touchdowns. I was surprised because in the same situation, it would be harder for me to do the same with the iQfoil. I agree with most who said that the faster you go, the more stable it gets. BTW, I am not a fast rider, I sail in a lake so the best I can do is freerace and up/down wind (point upwind and then go downwind either "fast" or play a little bit with the chop. Even though I have the 100 fuse, I was surprised with the upwind capability.
Having said that, I am thinking about getting the 110 fuse. Not sure which one though. Can someone please measure the distance between the front last screw and the front tip of the fuse of the 110 v1 and v2?
I am very exited about this foil.
Very interesting to hear your findings of the Patrik aeon WillyWind I am considering changing from phantom iris to aeon foil. What sail size (and sail make ) to wind strength will the v1/v2 and 750 wing lift ? Also interested in your top speed so far ?
With the 110 v1 fuse i use a +0.5 shim and with the 100 v2 fuse i use a +1.25 shim on the 750 and +1.5 shim for the 550 settup. If you are not going to compete upwind/downwind course racing format you do not need the 110 fuse. I was in the same dilema as you as our lake has some realy light winds usually and at the start i was only using the 110 fuse. I now find the 100 fuse actually easier to get into the air with pumping as it reacts faster.
Select to expand quotenerdycross said..WillyWind said..
Okay, today I had my first session. 750 front wing, 110 v1, 195 rear wing with 0 shim. Starboard freeride board (85cm) and 8.5 Sailworks flyer. I was concerned the foil would be hard to use but it is definitely more stable than my iQfoil. Even when the wind was very light to the point I was barely flying, I was able to gybe without touchdowns. I was surprised because in the same situation, it would be harder for me to do the same with the iQfoil. I agree with most who said that the faster you go, the more stable it gets. BTW, I am not a fast rider, I sail in a lake so the best I can do is freerace and up/down wind (point upwind and then go downwind either "fast" or play a little bit with the chop. Even though I have the 100 fuse, I was surprised with the upwind capability.
Having said that, I am thinking about getting the 110 fuse. Not sure which one though. Can someone please measure the distance between the front last screw and the front tip of the fuse of the 110 v1 and v2?
I am very exited about this foil.
Very interesting to hear your findings of the Patrik aeon WillyWind I am considering changing from phantom iris to aeon foil. What sail size (and sail make ) to wind strength will the v1/v2 and 750 wing lift ? Also interested in your top speed so far ?
Hi nerdy, I only have the 100 v1 so not sure how it compares to the v2. Yesterday I started with Sailworks Flyer 7.0 but the wind was patchy and coming down so came back right away for my 8.5. Of course, as soon as I was back in the water, the wind increased a little bit. The wind was gusting to maybe 15-7mph and was able to get going without pumping. I know that with my iQfoil (with the 1000 front wind) I would have been using my Flyer FR 6.0. Remember, I like to go up/downwind, I don't care about top speed too much. My top speed yesterday was 26mph (2 seconds).
before I buy either a longer fuse or the 900 wing I want to play with settings. I believe my mast rake is at 3.9 degrees (measured with my phone) and I only used the 0 degree shim. Next time I will try the +.75 and +1.
Select to expand quoteKarbonko said..
With the 110 v1 fuse i use a +0.5 shim and with the 100 v2 fuse i use a +1.25 shim on the 750 and +1.5 shim for the 550 settup. If you are not going to compete upwind/downwind course racing format you do not need the 110 fuse. I was in the same dilema as you as our lake has some realy light winds usually and at the start i was only using the 110 fuse. I now find the 100 fuse actually easier to get into the air with pumping as it reacts faster.
Hey Karbonko, can you measure the 110 mast from the front mast screw to the very front tip of the fuselage? I am curious to see how it compares to the Starboard 115+. my theory is that with the longer fuselage I could carry a smaller sail for my casual riding. Front wing would do the same but it's more expensive. I am pretty sure in the end I will buy both and then one fuse will collect dust.
Got the measurments for you and a comparison, although my 100 fuse is a V2 so a bit les power than V1. Its 41,5 cm from front bolt to the front of the fuse.
This strava track shows how capable the Aeon 750 wing is even in realy light winds. Wind station was showing 8-10 knots. Maybe there was 1 knot more in the bay. I was on the 91 v2 patrick board and 7.3 Gastra phantom air and with the 100v2 fuse. It was borderline and i would preffer a bigger sail but it was doable. The wind droped completely for the way down tho. Im actually retiring my 9.0 sail as im just not enjoying it anymore and this foil settup works with smaller sails anyways.
Dumb question: for the aeon foil, the higher the degree angle in the stab, the less power it has? Since the stab and the front wing are sitting on the same side of the fuselage, I feel it should be the opposite compared to the iQfoil, right? In the iQfoil the the +1 degree shim has more power than the -1.
Yes, but the shims are marked correctly for + an - power on the Aeon. So use them as it states on the actual shims.
Does anyone know why Patrik is using brass barrel nuts for the fuselage and mast connections? Brass is definitely softer than stainless steel. Price? Corrosion? I will upgrade to stainless for peace of mind.
Select to expand quoteWillyWind said..
Does anyone know why Patrik is using brass barrel nuts for the fuselage and mast connections? Brass is definitely softer than stainless steel. Price? Corrosion? I will upgrade to stainless for peace of mind.
I have upgraded mine between mast and board to titanium. The lower ones in the mast don't carry any load due to the smart design. I have heard that stainless should rip the treads, that is why standard is brass. I got the titanium ones from Peters windsurfshop
Select to expand quoteKasper79 said..WillyWind said..
Does anyone know why Patrik is using brass barrel nuts for the fuselage and mast connections? Brass is definitely softer than stainless steel. Price? Corrosion? I will upgrade to stainless for peace of mind.
I have upgraded mine between mast and board to titanium. The lower ones in the mast don't carry any load due to the smart design. I have heard that stainless should rip the treads, that is why standard is brass. I got the titanium ones from Peters windsurfshop
I think it would be sufficient to change the rear barrel nut. The rear screw gets tensile load, the front of the mast is pressed into the foilbox, so the front screw does not have to hold a lot of force.
Select to expand quoteKasper79 said..WillyWind said..
Does anyone know why Patrik is using brass barrel nuts for the fuselage and mast connections? Brass is definitely softer than stainless steel. Price? Corrosion? I will upgrade to stainless for peace of mind.
I have upgraded mine between mast and board to titanium. The lower ones in the mast don't carry any load due to the smart design. I have heard that stainless should rip the treads, that is why standard is brass. I got the titanium ones from Peters windsurfshop
Rip the thread as in galling? Starboard uses stainless steel for the barrel nuts, I wonder if iQfoilers, who are known for pushing their gear to the limit, replace them. My one concern is that brass is a much softer material. Maybe I'm overthinking this ("WillyWind, Patrik knows what he is doing") but, hey, that's what I do :)
In case someone needs this info in the future. I just got the 110 v1 fuse. Even tho it it's 10 cm longer than the 100 v1, it just places the front wing around 1.5 cm forward. So I am not expecting this fuse to be much more "powerful" than the 100v1 but it should be more pitch stable. In contrast, the starboard 115plus fuselage puts the front wing 7.5cm forward compared to the 105 plus.
Now, SB 115+ v aeon 110 v1. Even though it's 5 cm shorter, the front wing in the Patrick fuse sticks out of the end of the fuse. Comparing both fuses, the front wings are in the same position.
Not sure if this was posted before, but still.interesting :
www.patrikproshopbretagne.fr/guide-reglage-foil-aeon
Hello, I want to know how much faster the dim-s is than the dim-l. Thanks in advance. I'm really hesitating which mast to buy, but since I also practice formula foil, I don't know which one. But I want to ride in 6 knots of wind with large wings and 25 knots with small ones. I have a formula foil 100 and a slalom foil 85 boards. I can't understand why people prefer 95 over 100. Is there anyone who has ridden both masts and can give an answer? In many indicators 100 is better than 95. Thank you very much
