The board is under shaping phase, not to bad and very enjoing. I made my portion of mistakes I can share: glued sheets of insulation panels since I was not able to find a plank for reasonable price. Unfortunately the glue to use for this purpose is very hign cost (PU G4 type) and heavy like hell. It ads quite a strenght to the EPS but uselessly since everything is going to be wrapped wit PVC and fiber sheets. Moreovwer the glue thin layer is very difficult to sand and when and were you need to do so is quite an assle. The board gets 0,6 kg of weight. I would avoid it altogether in the future.
Despite this, the shaping phase is going pretty well and the board looks awesome.
Shaping almost finished, I am quite happy of the result, Sandwiching is next to come
Select to expand quoteTe Hau said..
Hello Edoardo,
I'm sorry for late reply, I haven't been on the site for some time.
"-the 48 gr glass layer underneath the PVC is to get better adhesion of the PVC to the EPS core?
-how you avoid EPS to aborb to much resin? do you seal it with resin+ microbaloons or wet the glass on a table before laying it on the EPS?
-I assume yo put some carbon reinforcements underneath PVC in the areas where local pressure may be applied (straps, UJ ecc...).
-The 48 gr/m2 glass layer on top of carbon is to protect from carbon brittleness? is that enough to avoid dents?"
48gr glass is for improved adhesion as you suggested. It's to hold the resin and prevent it from soaking into the EPS.
I don't seal the EPS (too heavy. not necessary)
I wet the fabrics on a table.
I use a plastic squeegee which leaves more resin in the fabric.
If your wish is for a very light and dry wet out, then use a metal squeegee.
Yes, I use carbon patches at the feet/heels, fin box area
48gr on top of the CF is for protection and also as resin absorber for the CF layer.
I never do see dry spots in the 48gr layer but if I did, I would just wet them out after the vac bag stage.
If dents are a worry, go heavier (48gr is mighty light). I do see harness hook dents.
Regarding the bottom shape.
For my foil boards I have been keeping it simple (as you intend) and I use a 300mm wide central flat section from tail to nose with the remaining outboard sections vee'd at 1 degree.
Out on the rails I have a 6 degree rail bevel which is max 65mm wide (at1900mm) and it fades out to zero at 900mm from the tail.
This shape works well and is easy to do.
Shape it on the blank and then score the PVC at the bend lines (3mmPVC scored to 1.5mm) before you bond the PVC on.
With this shape my boards take off early, breach safely and land easily and I've only been over the front once.
Board #1 had no cut outs, #2 with cut outs, #3 again no cut outs.
You can see that I saw little benefit from the cutouts.
Tail width is around 570mm at 100mm. Max widths 760 #1, 810 #2, 770 #3
Good luck and happy building.
One question Te Hau if I may ask...what is the orientation of the fron straps you would suggest for windfoiling? I so far used something around 30 deg respect to board axis since I was told that windfoiling requires to be more sort of upwind stance, though when jibing, I often find myself stuck in the straps when performing foot change. distance between holes I got 16 cm along the strap, while distance between the two row of inserts for the same strap is 8 cm. Would you suggest something different? Thank you
One question Te Hau if I may ask...what is the orientation of the fron straps you would suggest for windfoiling? I so far used something around 30 deg respect to board axis since I was told that windfoiling requires to be more sort of upwind stance, though when jibing, I often find myself stuck in the straps when performing foot change. distance between holes I got 16 cm along the strap, while distance between the two row of inserts for the same strap is 8 cm. Would you suggest something different? Thank you
I tested with the angle and I use 45 degree (90 degree between straps) I found it easier to pump onto the plane when my foot is pointing forward. It's also good for gybing as the foot comes out easily. I have my straps at 155mm between screws.
I sail in booties and I have the rear strap in (ie) 3rd hole and 4th hole, so that the rear strap is more open (180mm Vs 155mm) this is a good safety feature and stops the foot getting stuck if you go over the bars, also more mobile foot is good for weight shift and no negative that I can see (unless racing).
I'm not sure what you mean with the final (8cm) question.
Happy 2023
Select to expand quotecoolmove said..
Next step
So nice!, please let me know how it works on the water..what is the weight of the board you got?
Select to expand quoteTe Hau said..
One question Te Hau if I may ask...what is the orientation of the fron straps you would suggest for windfoiling? I so far used something around 30 deg respect to board axis since I was told that windfoiling requires to be more sort of upwind stance, though when jibing, I often find myself stuck in the straps when performing foot change. distance between holes I got 16 cm along the strap, while distance between the two row of inserts for the same strap is 8 cm. Would you suggest something different? Thank you
I tested with the angle and I use 45 degree (90 degree between straps) I found it easier to pump onto the plane when my foot is pointing forward. It's also good for gybing as the foot comes out easily. I have my straps at 155mm between screws.
I sail in booties and I have the rear strap in (ie) 3rd hole and 4th hole, so that the rear strap is more open (180mm Vs 155mm) this is a good safety feature and stops the foot getting stuck if you go over the bars, also more mobile foot is good for weight shift and no negative that I can see (unless racing).
I'm not sure what you mean with the final (8cm) question.
Happy 2023
Happy 2023 to you and all as well!
Thank you for your kind answer, I had the same feeling: torso more facing forward for effective pump, and problems when jibing if straps are to parallel to rails.
The 8 cm distance is referred to the sideways (perpendicular to board center line) distance between straps inserts; with your 45 deg suggested angle they would be cos45 X strap lenght= sqrt(2)* strap lenght/2=0,7*15,5= 11 cm more or less, my angle was much closer, almost 35 deg vs axis
A little behind Coolmove on the schedule :-) though progressing: inserts, foil and base boxes, bottom PVC....not so many mistakes so far..cross fingers, this WE I should vacum bag bottom sandwich. I did the inserts myself to save money and make them as strong and light as possible, they will get some carbon layers before glueing them to core...I can't even imagine loosing the foil offshore what would be. By the way Coolmove, you board is awesome! I will never be able to make it so nice looking! Core AS, this is probably the board you were looking for 190x71x 126 liters (approx)
Select to expand quotedimacced said..
. By the way Coolmove, you board is awesome! I will never be able to make it so nice looking!
Thank you, but i know that you are able to make it nice looking too.
will se what I will be able to do, my boards are usually fast & durty kind of...meanwhile I sanwiched the deck as well...getting close
Select to expand quotecoolmove said..
A new one
170 x 67 cm
Can't catch your pace, you are already on a new one, while I still have to complete my first...I am ready for final lamination though, planning to go 200 gr/m2 biaxial carbon on top of 3 mm sandwich plus reinforcements in critical areas. I need to decide if putting a layer of glass on top of the carbon to protect it from dinging...struggling with the idea, I will probably put it only on critical areas to save some weight...will decide shortly
Select to expand quotedimacced said..coolmove said..
A new one
170 x 67 cm
Can't catch your pace, you are already on a new one, while I still have to complete my first...I am ready for final lamination though, planning to go 200 gr/m2 biaxial carbon on top of 3 mm sandwich plus reinforcements in critical areas. I need to decide if putting a layer of glass on top of the carbon to protect it from dinging...struggling with the idea, I will probably put it only on critical areas to save some weight...will decide shortly
final deck laminatiopn ongoing, I am almost there...still far to hit the water but the board is almost completed
Tomorrow this time I will open the bag and my full carbon, first totally self made windfoil board will be there...than microballons, sanding, painting, antiskid pads and finally...hitting the water to see how god is it going to be...by the way it seems that Slinghshot team is following this thread..they inserted the handle on their V4 version as well :-)
Out of curiosity, what would be the biggest issue about building a windfoil board without vacuum bagging? A little bit heavier because you can't remove the excess resin? a little bit less strong because of the excess resin? Harder to have sharp edges? All three? Something else?
Select to expand quoteWillyWind said..
Out of curiosity, what would be the biggest issue about building a windfoil board without vacuum bagging? A little bit heavier because you can't remove the excess resin? a little bit less strong because of the excess resin? Harder to have sharp edges? All three? Something else?
All the above but mostly the edges, it's hard to get thicker fibers to make the turns. Bagging is not that hard, and the results are worth the effort. You can't get the time you spend building a board back. Your time is invaluable. Spend a little more time and money to learn how to vacuum bag so your results are worth your effort. I would recommend vacuum bagging even if all you do is one nose repair.
Select to expand quoteWillyWind said..
Out of curiosity, what would be the biggest issue about building a windfoil board without vacuum bagging? A little bit heavier because you can't remove the excess resin? a little bit less strong because of the excess resin? Harder to have sharp edges? All three? Something else?
All the above but mostly the edges, it's hard to get thicker fibers to make the turns. Bagging is not that hard, and the results are worth the effort. You can't get the time you spend building a board back. Your time is invaluable. Spend a little more time and money to learn how to vacuum bag so your results are worth your effort. I would recommend vacuum bagging even if all you do is one nose repair.
Select to expand quoteutcminusfour said..WillyWind said..
Out of curiosity, what would be the biggest issue about building a windfoil board without vacuum bagging? A little bit heavier because you can't remove the excess resin? a little bit less strong because of the excess resin? Harder to have sharp edges? All three? Something else?
All the above but mostly the edges, it's hard to get thicker fibers to make the turns. Bagging is not that hard, and the results are worth the effort. You can't get the time you spend building a board back. Your time is invaluable. Spend a little more time and money to learn how to vacuum bag so your results are worth your effort. I would recommend vacuum bagging even if all you do is one nose repair.
Yes I agree; the most challenging build option is sandwich construction, and the most challenging of the costruction phases is deck sandwiching, very difficult to do without vacum bagging, and even with vacum bagging you need to know what you are doing, since the risk of having not good adhesion around corners is there. the tecnique is not that difficult to learn and after2-3 attempts, you learn the tips that make it work very smoothly. I also modified my pump to avoid it running continuously and release hot oil, inserted a pressure gauge that sets a target for the pump to meet and switch the pump of when target is reached, so that the pump need only to compensate the very minimal bag leakages; mine switch on 1 per minute or so for 5 sec.
Select to expand quotejdfoils said..
Handle was on the v3 wizard and v2 freestyle too
I Was jocking...strange enough the wizards have been the last to get the handle, don't know why
Select to expand quotedimacced said..dimacced said..coolmove said..
A new one
170 x 67 cm
Can't catch your pace, you are already on a new one, while I still have to complete my first...I am ready for final lamination though, planning to go 200 gr/m2 biaxial carbon on top of 3 mm sandwich plus reinforcements in critical areas. I need to decide if putting a layer of glass on top of the carbon to protect it from dinging...struggling with the idea, I will probably put it only on critical areas to save some weight...will decide shortly
final deck laminatiopn ongoing, I am almost there...still far to hit the water but the board is almost completed
Tomorrow this time I will open the bag and my full carbon, first totally self made windfoil board will be there...than microballons, sanding, painting, antiskid pads and finally...hitting the water to see how god is it going to be...by the way it seems that Slinghshot team is following this thread..they inserted the handle on their V4 version as well :-)
here we are, now I need to spot where the hole for footstraps inserts are ...
My new one. I had to built one new with XPS core. The other one died while vakuum.
