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Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

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Created by doggie > 9 months ago, 23 Apr 2010
GPA
WA, 2529 posts
16 Oct 2011 12:15PM
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Place I surfed yesterday was basically a mess... lots of swell action, but cross-shore and hard to pick a peak. Plenty out trying early, but as the wind picked up the crew went in...

Drove along the coast on the way home and no where was working particularly well... shame, as it's a good swell - but the low tide and poor banks made for a lot of big straight waves.

thommo 000
1670 posts
16 Oct 2011 4:21PM
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Ten foot today,

Sham1984
VIC, 415 posts
16 Oct 2011 8:47PM
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Just got back from my first trip (with board) down south! Yesterday was hell onshore but found a nice secluded sheltered break withonly one other guy out, he left 10 minutes after I paddled out. Got a couple of great waves then freaked myself out with some shadows and paddled in. haha

Today was sooo nice and the swell was huge!! Drove around to a bunch of different breaks and just watched, was way too big for me everywhere! But there were some awesome surfers out so got some great snaps!

GPA
WA, 2529 posts
16 Oct 2011 6:56PM
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Sham1984 said...

Just got back from my first trip (with board) down south! Yesterday was hell onshore but found a nice secluded sheltered break withonly one other guy out, he left 10 minutes after I paddled out. Got a couple of great waves then freaked myself out with some shadows and paddled in. haha

Today was sooo nice and the swell was huge!! Drove around to a bunch of different breaks and just watched, was way too big for me everywhere! But there were some awesome surfers out so got some great snaps!


You know the rules/saying... "pics, or it didn't happen..."

Torch
WA, 521 posts
16 Oct 2011 7:24PM
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I hope you all got some! Im soooo spewing!! Have been looking at photos from the South West and it looks mental!!!!
I nearly cried, cause im stuck on a rig

bakesy
WA, 682 posts
16 Oct 2011 7:48PM
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yep, everywhere was working down here, couple of the outer reefs even looked OK. Crowds spreadout so one of the more enjoyable Sunday's for as long as I can remember, back to work tomoz after two weeks off

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
16 Oct 2011 8:29PM
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Hectic day of surf. So many good rides...so many wipeouts.
Absolutely wrecked.

sparki
WA, 410 posts
16 Oct 2011 9:04PM
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subasurf said...

Hectic day of surf. So many good rides...so many wipeouts.
Absolutely wrecked.


hinters as to location? thought today would be too big for the normal beaches, so i went looking elsewhere to find something that can handle immense water movement. turned out to be a pretty bad choice.

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
16 Oct 2011 9:35PM
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Just out at Leighton today.

jjd
WA, 705 posts
17 Oct 2011 6:55AM
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I'm sorry - drove to leighton to sacrifice straighthander size for some shape - leighton was absolutely poo

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
17 Oct 2011 8:53AM
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Wedge was about as much fun as a wet fart too. 25+kt NE was just too much.

Zuke
901 posts
17 Oct 2011 8:54AM
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Trigg was straight, sloppy and weedy this morning.

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
17 Oct 2011 9:13AM
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jjd said...

I'm sorry - drove to leighton to sacrifice straighthander size for some shape - leighton was absolutely poo


It was for most of the time. If you were patient and could handle the beatings then there was some quality rights to be had...if you were lucky.

jjd
WA, 705 posts
17 Oct 2011 9:28AM
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Sorry mate, but unless you are 3 foot tall, it was "poo" as in "small"

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
17 Oct 2011 9:38AM
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Ha!
What time did you get there? There were plenty of sets that were over head height breaking near the footbridge.

Let me guess...you stopped and watch for 10 seconds before making your mind up. Suits me I guess.

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
17 Oct 2011 2:55PM
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subasurf said...

Ha!
What time did you get there? There were plenty of sets that were over head height breaking near the footbridge.

Let me guess...you stopped and watch for 10 seconds before making your mind up. Suits me I guess.


I checked all over yesterday. Stopped at Anesty and it was huge and heavy. Haven't been there in nearly 15 years though and the brown sand and piped music in the dunes just about had me in tears.

Went to show and heard about Avalon so travelled back up north. Leighton was okay but looked a little messy. The outer break was going of nicely if you had a small boat to surf on. Guys i saw getting rides all the way to shore

All of Cott was just small boat territory , enough so maybe a small boat ramp should be put in

Got stuck in car park at Brighton so just wanted to head home. Ended up at my usual that was big and dumping but surprisingly fun. Had to help a few swimmers in and was dieing of sweat(only had steamer) so called it a day after psyching myself out at shadows too..

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
17 Oct 2011 4:42PM
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Had a junky surf Saturday arvo on a board that is too small for me but I did get some, was amazed at how I could ride a smaller board, am I onto something?

Looked Sunday but wasnt really interested, I think I need my mojo back

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
17 Oct 2011 5:16PM
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My latest is 5'4" Doggie and I'm lovin it. My boards have come down a foot in the last year or so. I'm 6ft and 110kilo too, so no lightwieght.

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
17 Oct 2011 6:43PM
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smicko said...

My latest is 5'4" Doggie and I'm lovin it. My boards have come down a foot in the last year or so. I'm 6ft and 110kilo too, so no lightwieght.


Holy cow..What board are you running

GPA
WA, 2529 posts
19 Oct 2011 11:36AM
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Bleck! Early southerly with small swell... about 18 out at Trigg Seconds picking off some waist high crumblers... I came home for a coffee (that's how good it was).

Plenty of weed still around.

thommo 000
1670 posts
19 Oct 2011 12:00PM
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GPA said...
Plenty of weed still around.


GPA
WA, 2529 posts
19 Oct 2011 12:08PM
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thommo 000 said...

GPA said...
Plenty of weed still around.





doggie
WA, 15849 posts
19 Oct 2011 1:09PM
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smicko said...

My latest is 5'4" Doggie and I'm lovin it. My boards have come down a foot in the last year or so. I'm 6ft and 110kilo too, so no lightwieght.


In clean waves it would have been great! It lacked a bit of rail volume so I had to be carefull on cutties but paddled well for such a small board

Before my back op I used to ride a 6,2 x 18 1/2 x 2 1/4 Gunther Rohan. Im 80kgs and this thing was so easy to surf and it was waifer thin. After my op I needed a bigger board as I had been out of the water for 8 months and was unfit and fat

smicko
WA, 2503 posts
19 Oct 2011 6:26PM
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jbshack said...

smicko said...

My latest is 5'4" Doggie and I'm lovin it. My boards have come down a foot in the last year or so. I'm 6ft and 110kilo too, so no lightwieght.


Holy cow..What board are you running



www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Surfing/Shortboards/New-Blade/

Zuke
901 posts
20 Oct 2011 9:00AM
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Trigg was small this morning and surprisingly busy, waste high with about 30 out between 2nd and 3rd's but the water is warming up.

Sham1984
VIC, 415 posts
20 Oct 2011 12:14PM
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Zuke said...

Trigg was small this morning and surprisingly busy, waste high with about 30 out between 2nd and 3rd's but the water is warming up.


everyone was on that peak throwing off little rights.. i was a little further down on the bank putting out some nice little lefts.. only 2 others were on that peak

still way too many people out for how small it was.. damn you nice weather!!

GPA
WA, 2529 posts
20 Oct 2011 2:13PM
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Sham1984 said...

Zuke said...

Trigg was small this morning and surprisingly busy, waste high with about 30 out between 2nd and 3rd's but the water is warming up.


everyone was on that peak throwing off little rights.. i was a little further down on the bank putting out some nice little lefts.. only 2 others were on that peak

still way too many people out for how small it was.. damn you nice weather!!



Well, I was there at 8:20 and there were some shoulder high set waves... but by 9:45am it was all but gone - went back and got my mal and had a 'play' in VERY inconsistent knee to waist high peelers off that right... swell dropped massively. Even the guys with fat fishes were struggling - even a goat-boater was complaining how small it had become... Not sure there will be anything left by tomorrow...

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
20 Oct 2011 2:56PM
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Secrets was a bit of a let down this morning.
Great if you were on a bigger board...still plenty to catch on the shorty but the rides weren't terribly long or exciting

Greenroom
WA, 7608 posts
21 Oct 2011 12:11AM
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Took the smart option and left the shortboards at home today. Got a fun SUP in mid morning and headed back out in the arvo with a sail.
Just Leech and I.
Yeow

poor relative
WA, 9106 posts
21 Oct 2011 6:38AM
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Why aren't you in g'loo?



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"Legions surf report :: Daily updates.." started by doggie