Place I surfed yesterday was basically a mess... lots of swell action, but cross-shore and hard to pick a peak. Plenty out trying early, but as the wind picked up the crew went in...
Drove along the coast on the way home and no where was working particularly well... shame, as it's a good swell - but the low tide and poor banks made for a lot of big straight waves.
Just got back from my first trip (with board) down south! Yesterday was hell onshore but found a nice secluded sheltered break withonly one other guy out, he left 10 minutes after I paddled out. Got a couple of great waves then freaked myself out with some shadows and paddled in. haha
Today was sooo nice and the swell was huge!! Drove around to a bunch of different breaks and just watched, was way too big for me everywhere! But there were some awesome surfers out so got some great snaps!
I hope you all got some! Im soooo spewing!! Have been looking at photos from the South West and it looks mental!!!!
I nearly cried, cause im stuck on a rig ![]()
yep, everywhere was working down here, couple of the outer reefs even looked OK. Crowds spreadout so one of the more enjoyable Sunday's for as long as I can remember, back to work tomoz after two weeks off![]()
I'm sorry - drove to leighton to sacrifice straighthander size for some shape - leighton was absolutely poo
Ha!
What time did you get there? There were plenty of sets that were over head height breaking near the footbridge.
Let me guess...you stopped and watch for 10 seconds before making your mind up. Suits me I guess.
Had a junky surf Saturday arvo on a board that is too small for me but I did get some, was amazed at how I could ride a smaller board, am I onto something?
Looked Sunday but wasnt really interested, I think I need my mojo back ![]()
My latest is 5'4" Doggie and I'm lovin it. My boards have come down a foot in the last year or so. I'm 6ft and 110kilo too, so no lightwieght.
Bleck! Early southerly with small swell... about 18 out at Trigg Seconds picking off some waist high crumblers... I came home for a coffee (that's how good it was).
Plenty of weed still around.
Trigg was small this morning and surprisingly busy, waste high with about 30 out between 2nd and 3rd's but the water is warming up.
Secrets was a bit of a let down this morning.
Great if you were on a bigger board...still plenty to catch on the shorty but the rides weren't terribly long or exciting ![]()
Took the smart option and left the shortboards at home today. Got a fun SUP in mid morning and headed back out in the arvo with a sail.
Just Leech and I.
Yeow![]()