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Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

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Created by doggie > 9 months ago, 23 Apr 2010
1joe
WA, 156 posts
6 Apr 2011 10:10PM
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doggie said...

Legion said...

Friday will be awesome. Every year I and every other numbskull paddle out on the first swell of the year at the metro beaches with the straight banks. And we sit and we sit, waiting for something that doesn't close out. And it's overhead and dumping. Boards are snapping and it generally is a waste of time. Amusing.


Ffs go north!! I'm outta here on fri nite!


Yes, good advise.... just make sure if ya gunna go north go Lanno and further! Go say hello to Thommo

Please, for FS leave the big "d" carpark alone!!! Thats my local

PS, Legion, its gonna be kaos for the next 5 swells mate!!! If its any conselation the first one was a week ago

1joe
WA, 156 posts
6 Apr 2011 10:15PM
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spot1 said...

It wont bother me as i will be in BALI yeeeharrr


Hey dude, I got back from there 2 weeks ago. I've been there a "few" times and last trip was the longest flat spell over there ever!!! Hope your fate is not the same as mine

Still got waves, just was a bit more difficult than usual

spot1
WA, 1588 posts
6 Apr 2011 10:51PM
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as long as i can get 1 or 2 good days for me i will be happy
its more about getting young josh into some,so i dont want it to big he is only 8.7y/old,
He surfed k/reef last year with a bit of help from sony one of the locals.
any way we all love it over there

here he is getting one at trigg point at the grom comp last year



1joe
WA, 156 posts
6 Apr 2011 11:05PM
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Thats gold, great 18th or 21st video spot1.

Good thing about Bali, always a wave somewhere......its wheather or not you can be bothered getting to it

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
7 Apr 2011 10:51AM
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1joe said...

doggie said...

Legion said...

Friday will be awesome. Every year I and every other numbskull paddle out on the first swell of the year at the metro beaches with the straight banks. And we sit and we sit, waiting for something that doesn't close out. And it's overhead and dumping. Boards are snapping and it generally is a waste of time. Amusing.


Ffs go north!! I'm outta here on fri nite!


Yes, good advise.... just make sure if ya gunna go north go Lanno and further! Go say hello to Thommo

Please, for FS leave the big "d" carpark alone!!! Thats my local

PS, Legion, its gonna be kaos for the next 5 swells mate!!! If its any conselation the first one was a week ago


"d" is my local as well if we are talking about the same place.

1joe
WA, 156 posts
7 Apr 2011 11:33AM
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I'm talkin about 30min drive from Joondalup

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
7 Apr 2011 11:39AM
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1joe said...

I'm talkin about 30min drive from Joondalup


Same, best wave ever should I say best fun wave ever. Surfed since I was 15 thats why I call it my local, do live up that way?

Rotto has just gone to 3.0+ should be good for the weekend

1joe
WA, 156 posts
7 Apr 2011 11:56AM
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yeah i live there....

would've been good this morning i reckon. Got the day off tomorrow

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
7 Apr 2011 12:11PM
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1joe said...

yeah i live there....

would've been good this morning i reckon. Got the day off tomorrow


The left will be smokin!! You should get a good session in then

GPA
WA, 2528 posts
7 Apr 2011 1:56PM
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doggie said...

1joe said...

I'm talkin about 30min drive from Joondalup


Same, best wave ever should I say best fun wave ever. Surfed since I was 15 thats why I call it my local, do live up that way?

Rotto has just gone to 3.0+ should be good for the weekend


I love that wave, but have not been there for 3-4yrs... last time it was a Tuesday morning in March (no Pub Hol) and there was already 9 cars there at 8:00am - 17 people in the water... I love the take off on the right when it's overhead.

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
7 Apr 2011 2:17PM
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GPA said...

doggie said...

1joe said...

I'm talkin about 30min drive from Joondalup


Same, best wave ever should I say best fun wave ever. Surfed since I was 15 thats why I call it my local, do live up that way?

Rotto has just gone to 3.0+ should be good for the weekend


I love that wave, but have not been there for 3-4yrs... last time it was a Tuesday morning in March (no Pub Hol) and there was already 9 cars there at 8:00am - 17 people in the water... I love the take off on the right when it's overhead.


Surfed it last year around the same time for 7 days straight. The Monday was the best with 5 others out 2.2m 13-14 sec @ Rotto light offshore. Must of been out for three hours. It was the best week ever

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
7 Apr 2011 2:34PM
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I don't know where it is

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
7 Apr 2011 2:37PM
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subasurf said...

I don't know where it is


sorry but thats the plan

GPA
WA, 2528 posts
7 Apr 2011 3:43PM
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doggie said...

subasurf said...

I don't know where it is


sorry but thats the plan


Ditto; that's +1 there I'm afraid...

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
7 Apr 2011 3:46PM
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doggie said...
sorry but thats the plan



Yeah that's why I refused to ask.
If I'm going to find it, I'll find it myself and earn it

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
7 Apr 2011 4:13PM
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subasurf said...

doggie said...
sorry but thats the plan



Yeah that's why I refused to ask.
If I'm going to find it, I'll find it myself and earn it


I could tell you but then I would make you ride a SUP

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
7 Apr 2011 4:23PM
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haha, i'd rather spend the rest of my life being cut off by bodyboarders than ride a SUP. Haha

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
7 Apr 2011 4:32PM
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subasurf said...

haha, i'd rather spend the rest of my life being cut off by bodyboarders than ride a SUP. Haha


You are fitting in well

thommo 000
1670 posts
7 Apr 2011 4:56PM
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had 3 good surfs on the way back home from Perth last Saturday, surfed Kearnsys, then the other kearnsys, then had a look at kearnsys island but was to far to paddle so barred that, but it looked good, quick one at Dongara, was offshore all the way

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
7 Apr 2011 4:59PM
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thommo 000 said...

had 3 good surfs on the way back home from Perth last Saturday, surfed Kearnsys, then the other kearnsys, then had a look at kearnsys island but was to far to paddle so barred that, but it looked good, quick one at Dongara, was offshore all the way




Back of the island is great on a small swell

thommo 000
1670 posts
7 Apr 2011 5:04PM
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yeah i was thinking of all the sharks you guys see there, so barred it

Chopz
WA, 147 posts
8 Apr 2011 7:18PM
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All day easterly tomorrow, perfect day for SUPing

Legion
WA, 2222 posts
9 Apr 2011 2:41PM
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Well, I hope those who left the city got some waves somewhere. Completely flat today. I just watched a bit of the comp on Fuel and it looked pretty flat down south too. Graphs show a very steep slide downhill.

On a related note, someone said last year how the graphs changed their scale. I was too lazy to get out of bed yesterday morning but I had a look online. There's no way there was as much swell as the graphs indicated (compared to how they used to behave anyway). A few years ago that was about as big as it would get midwinter - a 1m swell at Cott and 3m at Rotto for a clean swell (although it would get bigger during onshore storms). But yesterday seemed tiny, whereas what used to be a 1m/3m swell would be 4'+ all along the metro coast.

GPA
WA, 2528 posts
9 Apr 2011 3:15PM
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^^^
Was about 3ft in the sets at Trigg Point - quite good shape, gusty NE, but as expected about 50+ on it - was surprised at the high percentage of novice surfers out there... one guy got a cracker of a wave, overhead and nice and deep - but he spent the whole length of the wave weaving through the 14yo boogers...

About 15 or so boogers surfing off the back of the point reef...

There was also a good peak at the Trigg/Scarbs Underpass; 2-3ft in sets - nice to see a shoulder for a change. About 30 or so sitting patiently for them...

Still pretty straight at 1st, 2nd and 3rd car parks.

By the time I finished my 70min walk the swell was noticeably smaller...

Nothing worth reporting at Mettams - 3 out. About shoulder high at Toms and tiny at Grabbers.

What a dissapointing final to the Margs comp...

subasurf
WA, 2154 posts
9 Apr 2011 7:20PM
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Just got back from an overnighter at Lancelin.
Lancelin was cranking today. Perfect offshore winds all down carving some beautiful green barrels.

Surfed for about 10 hours and my thighs are rashed up to buggery

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
11 Apr 2011 2:02PM
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Wedge got x-shore early, bout 25-30 people out when we got there and none when we left average waves but waves all the same

Ados
WA, 421 posts
11 Apr 2011 3:42PM
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you lucky buggers. I did my sciatic nerve thingy (bulged disk L4/5)) and had a cortisone shot to the back (which I dont recomment ) and after 3 weeks am only know beginning to walk without pain. Surfing is a distant dream.
Adrian
By all means, have yourselves a ball

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
11 Apr 2011 4:02PM
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Ados said...

you lucky buggers. I did my sciatic nerve thingy (bulged disk L4/5)) and had a cortisone shot to the back (which I dont recomment ) and after 3 weeks am only know beginning to walk without pain. Surfing is a distant dream.
Adrian
By all means, have yourselves a ball


I feel for you mate I was out of the water for 10months with a similar problem.
I popped the lowest disk through my spine and onto the sciatic and had to have an op to cut the disc away from the nerve. Worst thing ever and, took ages to get back into the surf properly. All good now tho had the op in Jan 07

spot1
WA, 1588 posts
11 Apr 2011 4:08PM
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the bested josh and i could do

GPA
WA, 2528 posts
11 Apr 2011 5:06PM
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doggie said...

Ados said...

you lucky buggers. I did my sciatic nerve thingy (bulged disk L4/5)) and had a cortisone shot to the back (which I dont recomment ) and after 3 weeks am only know beginning to walk without pain. Surfing is a distant dream.
Adrian
By all means, have yourselves a ball


I feel for you mate I was out of the water for 10months with a similar problem.
I popped the lowest disk through my spine and onto the sciatic and had to have an op to cut the disc away from the nerve. Worst thing ever and, took ages to get back into the surf properly. All good now tho had the op in Jan 07


Ados - don't worry. Like Doggie I was out with a back injury... 30% crush fracture to L2 - and I was out of action for 10 months also... that was 12yrs ago. More recently, I had surgery to repair a badly torn tendon in my left ankle - thought I'd be OK in 10wks - Wrong!! 6 months on still have some pain and discomfort - but would be starting back in the water if I hadn't stacked my bike 2 weeks ago and broken my hand (3 places) and rib!!! Now I have another 3-4 wks just looking at the surf!!

So as you can see "**** happens" - you just gotta stay positive and deal with it...

Chin up - you will surf again, you just need to give the body time to heal... Best of luck.



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"Legions surf report :: Daily updates.." started by doggie