Couple of pics from out the front here last week when the rain trough from up north hit . High tide top , low tide bottom
My back and hip have finally come good enough for me to venture out.
Avalon wasn't crowded for a change, with waist to chest high waves coming through. So a good opportunity to get to know the new mal, (well new as in not surfed much, it's over 6 months since I built it).
Last time I had a knee paddler was in 1966!
So this was a trip down memory lane.
I'm very happy with the way the board went, easy to turn and nose ride, and all that rocker surprisingly doesn't make it slow.
And I surprised a couple of people by how easy it was to catch waves.
I just need more decent sessions on it, to get thoroughly comfortable with it. Then I can concentrate on the wave, instead of the board.
Surfed a little bank out of the wind over the last three days . Nothing special . Water still a bit discoloured from the rain
Only surfing the web today. 
Saving, time, petrol and sanity. 
Glad I'm past the days of optimistically thinking I might just jag a couple of fun ones out here:
Got a few surfs in over the past few days but it's been pretty small . The best of it was a bank up the middle of the beach in town and I had it to myself . Knee high lefts but really consistent and fun .
Got out today. It was around head high and clean enough but low tide. Got a few close outs and a few OK waves .
Went out this morning but the east northeast swell didn't arrive until later in the day . Got a few small ones and it was clean
It's been big here this week it's settling down hopefully tomorrow more longboard friendly but first up is a 6 am paddle out for my longtime mate accountant it's been a week I'm still rattled at his lose and how it happened such a amazing human and outstanding surfer I figure more to it than reported hopefully I'll come away with more info I can't believe it was a simple drowning he was too good for that, news said leg rope caught on rocks he would have pulled the strap Rip AK
Just surfed a lumpy high tide beach break after night shift . More swell here today . Got smashed in the shore break trying to get out . 
Still got a few . No crowd
Select to expand quoteMacaha said..
It's been big here this week it's settling down hopefully tomorrow more longboard friendly but first up is a 6 am paddle out for my longtime mate accountant it's been a week I'm still rattled at his lose and how it happened such a amazing human and outstanding surfer I figure more to it than reported hopefully I'll come away with more info I can't believe it was a simple drowning he was too good for that, news said leg rope caught on rocks he would have pulled the strap Rip AK
I was talking to a guy the other day who got his leggy caught over reef and with the water surging he couldn't get down to release the strap .
Select to expand quotesmh said..Macaha said..
It's been big here this week it's settling down hopefully tomorrow more longboard friendly but first up is a 6 am paddle out for my longtime mate accountant it's been a week I'm still rattled at his lose and how it happened such a amazing human and outstanding surfer I figure more to it than reported hopefully I'll come away with more info I can't believe it was a simple drowning he was too good for that, news said leg rope caught on rocks he would have pulled the strap Rip AK
I was talking to a guy the other day who got his leggy caught over reef and with the water surging he couldn't get down to release the strap .
Yep. Happened to me at Desert Point Lombok. Lucky leggie eventually broke presumably on reef edge.
There's a spot at my local where its happened twice. Boards tombstoning & the currents sucking so hard through a reef section it took over a minute before I could get to the release with the aid of a set wave pushing the other way & lessoning the pressure enough. It was sucking me under water.
Select to expand quotebeachandbush said..
Hey guys.
Invest in a knee rope. You don't have to bend that far.
I've got one
Smaller today but better winds . Nice peaks . Sunny weather . Still in boardies and rash vest . Best time of the year . The kids go back to school next week which is a massive bonus .
Select to expand quoteMacaha said..
Three different banks is it true singles go better on your back hand?
Not sure about that Mac .
Select to expand quoteMacaha said..
Three different banks is it true singles go better on your back hand?
I reckon
Select to expand quoteLastSupper said..Macaha said..
Three different banks is it true singles go better on your back hand?
I reckon
Not sure what's going on but the first surf on the new board I hooked into a reform left and it felt so nice again the other day smooth flowing
Select to expand quoteMacaha said..
Three different banks is it true singles go better on your back hand?
For what you surf single is the way to go that's all I ride now .??
Select to expand quoteasea said..Macaha said..
Three different banks is it true singles go better on your back hand?
For what you surf single is the way to go that's all I ride now .??
My man busted up knees had a call today you asking for sup advice that sucks mate keep the style mate
Select to expand quoteasea said..Macaha said..
Three different banks is it true singles go better on your back hand?
For what you surf single is the way to go that's all I ride now .??
My man busted up knees had a call today you asking for sup advice that sucks mate keep the style mate
Select to expand quoteasea said..Macaha said..
Three different banks is it true singles go better on your back hand?
For what you surf single is the way to go that's all I ride now .??
My man busted up knees had a call today you asking for sup advice that sucks mate keep the style mate
Select to expand quoteasea said..Macaha said..
Three different banks is it true singles go better on your back hand?
For what you surf single is the way to go that's all I ride now .??
My man busted up knees had a call today you asking for sup advice that sucks mate keep the style mate
Clean and overhead on the sets . Not bad shape but a few out . Beautiful Autumn weather and water still warm enough for boardies and rash vest . I'll be back out there tomorrow
Avalon again, this time a little bigger, probably got a couple around chest high. I'm starting to get used to moving my feet again. Found all that rear rocker taking over, in one nice cutback. Had a couple of latish tack offs that caused me a problem getting to my feet, but that may improve with practise.
BUT, I now have sore knees, I'm going to have to use some sort of padding somewhere until I get some calluses happening.
Skate board knee pads, soft deck grip???
Any ideas
A few mellow waist hi peelers at BB ... Hey ASEA....Dippers back in action going well...!
Clean overhead on the sets . Not as crowded as yesterday and better winds. Water still warm . Another great autumn day
