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When did you 'give in'.

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Created by laceys lane > 9 months ago, 23 May 2017
laceys lane
QLD, 19804 posts
23 May 2017 3:04PM
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Im asking when you went from shortboards to mals and why.
Was it age or injuries or ?

The day is coming for me i guess but im fighting it.

Mac would have me in a retirement home. I think hes a sales rep.

Reckons im crazy and should let go

But the weekend was so good.

Anyway cheers

Ricardo1709
NSW, 1302 posts
23 May 2017 3:16PM
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Pffft no reason you can't do both if you stay fit n flexible,theres a bloke at my local in his late 70s and still on a 6'8 shortboard,ride mals when its too small for a shortie,so many options for boards these days.Love riding a mal on softer point waves like arra/cresc.Id only ride a mal full-time if my kook to good surf ratio reaches a certain point,of course i move it now and then

Macaha
QLD, 21977 posts
23 May 2017 3:21PM
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Lacey trust me, when you get married you pack on weight save hard sell any toy you may own to fund houses kids school fees and to put food on the table, well that's what happened to me,until my wife asked if I still had a surfboard, I didn't so purchased one but it was 8 foot and not the 5'11 I once surfed. I've lost count now haha,If I was your frame I probably would still ride one but I'm not, so keep going but your right there comes a time when an old man looks all wrong on a shortboard and your time is fast approaching

laceys lane
QLD, 19804 posts
23 May 2017 3:29PM
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Ricardo1709 said..
Pffft no reason you can't do both if you stay fit n flexible,theres a bloke at my local in his late 70s and still on a 6'8 shortboard,ride mals when its too small for a shortie,so many options for boards these days.Love riding a mal on softer point waves like arra/cresc.Id only ride a mal full-time if my kook to good surf ratio reaches a certain point,of course i move it now and then


for me it hard to go back to a shortie from a mal and when it is a shortie wave the crowds are all over it so little chance to ease into.

however I did 8 days in a row shortboard as well as working on the tools and paddle training - I'm stuffed. so guess a few long board sessions would break up the hi energy wear out factor.

I

laceys lane
QLD, 19804 posts
23 May 2017 3:30PM
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Macaha said..
Lacey trust me, when you get married you pack on weight save hard sell any toy you may own to fund houses kids school fees and to put food on the table, well that's what happened to me,until my wife asked if I still had a surfboard, I didn't so purchased one but it was 8 foot and not the 5'11 I only surfed. I've lost count now. If I was your frame I probably would still ride one but I'm not, so keep going but your right there comes a time when an old man looks all wrong on a shortboard and your time is fast approaching


cheers

Macaha
QLD, 21977 posts
23 May 2017 3:44PM
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Select to expand quote
laceys lane said..


Ricardo1709 said..
Pffft no reason you can't do both if you stay fit n flexible,theres a bloke at my local in his late 70s and still on a 6'8 shortboard,ride mals when its too small for a shortie,so many options for boards these days.Love riding a mal on softer point waves like arra/cresc.Id only ride a mal full-time if my kook to good surf ratio reaches a certain point,of course i move it now and then




for me it hard to go back to a shortie from a mal and when it is a shortie wave the crowds are all over it so little chance to ease into.

however I did 8 days in a row shortboard as well as working on the tools and paddle training - I'm stuffed. so guess a few long board sessions would break up the hi energy wear out factor.

I



Personally I think you take surfing way too seriously you allow it to control your mind/mind set, take up a non water hobby it will balance your head space. I get all depressed when you tell me about how hard it is going from long to shortboards, gets me thinking is it that important to whinge on a perfect summers weekend.

surfbroker
NSW, 1488 posts
23 May 2017 3:46PM
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For me the move came when my wave count dropped riding a short board..
I went gradually from 6'6"~7'~7'6"~ 9'...over a 15 year period.
With the various bottom configurations and fin set ups you can get a longer board that performs like a shorter one (not like sub 6' though)
These days my short board is 8' but as a quad it still rides and turns like a 7' while my "long" board is 8'6"
If you still flexible short boards are great, but as you approach old fart age length/volume keeps you out there.

Macaha
QLD, 21977 posts
23 May 2017 3:50PM
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As a longboarder I like to think Vanders listens to my reason I tell him, don't take that big wave pig machine out when he could ride a 10 foot instead of the 11.11,those big boards make you lazy and has the same effect Lacey is taking about.

climber
NSW, 1125 posts
23 May 2017 3:53PM
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I guess it is what you don't know sometimes ..... Started surfing later in life (7-8yrs ago), (Like Mac ... houses kids business etc etc can make time an funds tight ..mostly time ) I didn't know that you should move from shorty to mals ... I learnt on a mal and then went to shorties. Still ride both today .. so
Stay fit and well
Have fun
ride what you want .... when you want ... on what you want ... when you can and with who you can
Who really cares anyway ... it really is just ourselves and our own stuff we have to manage


He who has the biggest smile and has the most fun surfing is the "best" at it.


(and this "going from longboards to short boards is hard and visa versa ....pfffft ....its called commitment to both, One good wipe out and you have it sorted for the session ...thats what I tell myself ..some days it just take more than 1 )

MichaelR
NSW, 862 posts
23 May 2017 3:55PM
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I've never ridden anything sub 9'. Starting at 50 I was too fat and unfit and on my first outing needed help getting back to shore..... I sometimes fancy trying something shorter, but I have so much fun on what I ride now, I don't want to waste a good day in the surf not catching waves.

climber
NSW, 1125 posts
23 May 2017 4:01PM
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MichaelR said..
I've never ridden anything sub 9'. Starting at 50 I was too fat and unfit and on my first outing needed help getting back to shore..... I sometimes fancy trying something shorter, but I have so much fun on what I ride now, I don't want to waste a good day in the surf not catching waves.


Graaaaaaaaacccee

Macaha
QLD, 21977 posts
23 May 2017 4:12PM
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But deep down I think the purpose of this thread is Lacey hoping somebody saying sell all your shortboards and buy a longboard Quiver

surfanimal
NSW, 1659 posts
23 May 2017 4:20PM
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Lacey.

Remove the board length from the equation and ask yourself what your goals are.

Is it a planned boat trip to a remote island, cruising knee highs with mates, overcoming personal demons / challenges, staying fit, maintaining a healthy lifestyle, a desire to carve or glide ? Maybe a few of these or something else altogether of a personal nature ?

Once you set your own personal road to fulfilling your individual needs the answer to which board to ride on any given day answers itself and having a trusty quiver allows each session to be totally fulfilling on whatever plain you are at on that day.

Forget the haters, surfing is an individual activity so just be true to you as your best self and ride the board that makes you smile, feel fulfilled and gets you through the day.

DARTH
WA, 3028 posts
23 May 2017 2:30PM
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Shortboards rule

Macaha
QLD, 21977 posts
23 May 2017 4:38PM
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laceys lane said..

Macaha said..


laceys lane said..




Ricardo1709 said..
Pffft no reason you can't do both if you stay fit n flexible,theres a bloke at my local in his late 70s and still on a 6'8 shortboard,ride mals when its too small for a shortie,so many options for boards these days.Love riding a mal on softer point waves like arra/cresc.Id only ride a mal full-time if my kook to good surf ratio reaches a certain point,of course i move it now and then






for me it hard to go back to a shortie from a mal and when it is a shortie wave the crowds are all over it so little chance to ease into.

however I did 8 days in a row shortboard as well as working on the tools and paddle training - I'm stuffed. so guess a few long board sessions would break up the hi energy wear out factor.

I





Personally I think you take surfing way too seriously you allow it to control your mind/mind set, take up a non water hobby it will balance your head space. I get all depressed when you tell me about how hard it is going from long to shortboards, gets me thinking is it that important to whinge on a perfect summers weekend.



Im sorry if thats depressing for you . Its not for me. Just something to figure out.

I ll not tell you from now on i promise


Its ok your a short-order remember the text you sent me the other week,I expect to hear your charging TOS and D-BAH no LM for you.

laceys lane
QLD, 19804 posts
23 May 2017 4:39PM
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Macaha said..
But deep down I think the purpose of this thread is Lacey hoping somebody saying sell all your shortboards and buy a longboard Quiver


Nar. I have time in mind when i think it will be time.

Dropping into a few good lefts on a right/good board was something im keen to keep as long as possible.

Coming back from sups and tuning back into boards wirh the right stuff wasnt what i was expecting thou

laceys lane
QLD, 19804 posts
23 May 2017 4:42PM
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Select to expand quote
Macaha said..



laceys lane said..




Macaha said..





laceys lane said..







Ricardo1709 said..
Pffft no reason you can't do both if you stay fit n flexible,theres a bloke at my local in his late 70s and still on a 6'8 shortboard,ride mals when its too small for a shortie,so many options for boards these days.Love riding a mal on softer point waves like arra/cresc.Id only ride a mal full-time if my kook to good surf ratio reaches a certain point,of course i move it now and then









for me it hard to go back to a shortie from a mal and when it is a shortie wave the crowds are all over it so little chance to ease into.

however I did 8 days in a row shortboard as well as working on the tools and paddle training - I'm stuffed. so guess a few long board sessions would break up the hi energy wear out factor.

I








Personally I think you take surfing way too seriously you allow it to control your mind/mind set, take up a non water hobby it will balance your head space. I get all depressed when you tell me about how hard it is going from long to shortboards, gets me thinking is it that important to whinge on a perfect summers weekend.






Im sorry if thats depressing for you . Its not for me. Just something to figure out.

I ll not tell you from now on i promise





Its ok your a short-order remember the text you sent me the other week,I expect to hear your charging TOS and D-BAH no LM for you.




That old chest nut again

Dbar i could surf no worries but too crowded for me these days. It actually a easy wave to surf most times imo
Tell you what bro.
Lots of lookers at the palmy break on the weekend.


Ps im no hell charger. Never was

Al G
NSW, 7704 posts
23 May 2017 4:43PM
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I gave up riding short boards in 2000,my back decided that for me just couldn't stand the pain any longer from having a couple of hour sessions,spending days upon days lying flat on the bed or lounge with a support brace on wasn't my idea of fun anymore,let alone time off work= no money.I couldn't twist and turn my body and wasn't as agile as I was in my teens to 40s.I loved riding short boards and "I'm not loving myself here" was pretty good at it,Reo's ,Cutbacks,bottom Turns,etc,I had many mates used to tell me I was a good surfer in the day.Since riding a Longboard I don't get half as much pain now when I have a few sessions,after this weekends roadtrip it's give me some but nothing to what it would be if I rode a shortboard all weekend.In saying that I'm enjoying riding longboards full time now heading towards my 60s and still learning along the way,another phase in life and surfing

laceys lane
QLD, 19804 posts
23 May 2017 4:45PM
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Al G said..
I gave up riding short boards in 2000,my back decided that for me just couldn't stand the pain any longer from having a couple of hour sessions.I couldn't twist and turn my body and wasn't as agile as I was in my teens to 40s.I loved riding short boards and "I'm not loving myself here" was pretty good at it,Reo's ,Cutbacks,bottom Turns,etc,I had many mates used to tell me I was a good surfer in the day.Since riding a Longboard I don't get half as much pain now when I have a few sessions,after this weekends roadtrip it's give me some but nothing to what it would be if I rode a shortboard all weekend.In saying that I'm enjoying riding longboards full time now heading towards my 60s and still learning along the way,another phase in life and surfing



Cool. Thats the kind if feedback in looking at cheers

MickPC
8266 posts
23 May 2017 2:57PM
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I'm 45, started riding LB's a few years ago. Basically coz they're an awesome board type to have in the quiver. When I first got one I was stoked with the ability to paddle in so easily, get going early & make sections I would not have made on a shortboard. Really wish I'd got one 20 years ago, looking back at all the perfect shaped small waves I was unable to ride on my 90's style highly rockered boards I surfed until 2009. But over the last 18 months I've focussed on lowering the bar for what I consider shortboard conditions, coz I was getting a bit lazy. Reckon I have a good mix going now. Its not unusual for me to take a shortboard out first & then grab the longboard when I start getting tired.

laceys lane
QLD, 19804 posts
23 May 2017 4:59PM
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Actually thats a pretty good idea

Al G
NSW, 7704 posts
23 May 2017 5:01PM
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DARTH said..
Shortboards rule


They used to

climber
NSW, 1125 posts
23 May 2017 5:14PM
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Select to expand quote
surfanimal said..

Once you set your own personal road to fulfilling your individual needs the answer to which board to ride on any given day answers itself and having a trusty quiver allows each session to be totally fulfilling on whatever plain you are at on that day.

Forget the haters, surfing is an individual activity so just be true to you as your best self and ride the board that makes you smile, feel fulfilled and gets you through the day.


What he said .... right on SA ^^^^

laceys lane
QLD, 19804 posts
23 May 2017 5:42PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
Macaha said..


laceys lane said..




Ricardo1709 said..
Pffft no reason you can't do both if you stay fit n flexible,theres a bloke at my local in his late 70s and still on a 6'8 shortboard,ride mals when its too small for a shortie,so many options for boards these days.Love riding a mal on softer point waves like arra/cresc.Id only ride a mal full-time if my kook to good surf ratio reaches a certain point,of course i move it now and then






for me it hard to go back to a shortie from a mal and when it is a shortie wave the crowds are all over it so little chance to ease into.

however I did 8 days in a row shortboard as well as working on the tools and paddle training - I'm stuffed. so guess a few long board sessions would break up the hi energy wear out factor.

I





Personally I think you take surfing way too seriously you allow it to control your mind/mind set, take up a non water hobby it will balance your head space. I get all depressed when you tell me about how hard it is going from long to shortboards, gets me thinking is it that important to whinge on a perfect summers weekend.



look mac, I answered this and then deleted it. I think this kind of stuff is best left over a coffee. after tux said two old ladies last Monday I have refused to get into a tit for tat. you may have noticed I just said keep surfing.

how about it, you know, we just go for the cheap laughs and leave the heavy hitting stuff out.

cheers

chrispthekiwi
83 posts
23 May 2017 3:50PM
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surfanimal said..
Lacey.

Remove the board length from the equation and ask yourself what your goals are.

Is it a planned boat trip to a remote island, cruising knee highs with mates, overcoming personal demons / challenges, staying fit, maintaining a healthy lifestyle, a desire to carve or glide ? Maybe a few of these or something else altogether of a personal nature ?

Once you set your own personal road to fulfilling your individual needs the answer to which board to ride on any given day answers itself and having a trusty quiver allows each session to be totally fulfilling on whatever plain you are at on that day.

Forget the haters, surfing is an individual activity so just be true to you as your best self and ride the board that makes you smile, feel fulfilled and gets you through the day.


this.

I have boards from 6'4 - 10'6. I ride what i think will be fun.

Cobra
9106 posts
23 May 2017 4:10PM
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Lacey great thread, but will people answer this truthfully.

For me watching old blokes surf short boards is hysterical watching a bloke trimming along a wave
pulling off the slowest of cutbacks if you'd call it a cut back,,they never forget the throwing of the arms
it makes the turn slash BBhahahaha,,,then the weakest of pumps even weaker bottom turn
,,,,,,sorry forgot what im saying as I'm pissing myself laughing.

TRULY disregard my post and keep slashing it under the lip cranking off the bottom and getting air off the lip
because you are throwing that short board around like a pig dog with a toy.

and remember when walking out of the surf ,suck the gutt in,pull that combover back
BECAUSE You have that 6'2" under your wing and you owned that sesh.

laceys lane
QLD, 19804 posts
23 May 2017 6:13PM
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Select to expand quote
Cobra said..
Lacey great thread, but will people answer this truthfully.

For me watching old blokes surf short boards is hysterical watching a bloke trimming along a wave
pulling off the slowest of cutbacks if you'd call it a cut back,,they never forget the throwing of the arms
it makes the turn slash BBhahahaha,,,then the weakest of pumps even weaker bottom turn
,,,,,,sorry forgot what im saying as I'm pissing myself laughing.

TRULY disregard my post and keep slashing it under the lip cranking off the bottom and getting air off the lip
because you are throwing that short board around like a pig dog with a toy.

and remember when walking out of the surf ,suck the gutt in,pull that combover back
BECAUSE You have that 6'2" under your wing and you owned that sesh.


no worries concrete

Ricardo1709
NSW, 1302 posts
23 May 2017 6:18PM
Thumbs Up

I know the feeling of going from a mal to a shortboard especially when you get a bit older,Im 57 this year 80 kg and after Ive surfed a mal for a few days my shortboard feels like a toothpick,thats why i bought a 39ltr shorty as its high volume feels better than my 32ltr 6'2 and lets me step down not so drastically in one go,that flying fish you bought Id buy at stock size 36ltr ,everyone says volume shouldn't be the be all and end all,but most good shapers know where to place it to deliver a good refined board with the extra foam where its needed,I rely on volume a lot for boards now then eyeball its lines and how it feels under the arm.If you still want to ride shortboards adjust the board accordingly.
Keep surfing

Macaha
QLD, 21977 posts
23 May 2017 6:24PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
laceys lane said..

Macaha said..



laceys lane said..





Ricardo1709 said..
Pffft no reason you can't do both if you stay fit n flexible,theres a bloke at my local in his late 70s and still on a 6'8 shortboard,ride mals when its too small for a shortie,so many options for boards these days.Love riding a mal on softer point waves like arra/cresc.Id only ride a mal full-time if my kook to good surf ratio reaches a certain point,of course i move it now and then







for me it hard to go back to a shortie from a mal and when it is a shortie wave the crowds are all over it so little chance to ease into.

however I did 8 days in a row shortboard as well as working on the tools and paddle training - I'm stuffed. so guess a few long board sessions would break up the hi energy wear out factor.

I






Personally I think you take surfing way too seriously you allow it to control your mind/mind set, take up a non water hobby it will balance your head space. I get all depressed when you tell me about how hard it is going from long to shortboards, gets me thinking is it that important to whinge on a perfect summers weekend.




look mac, I answered this and then deleted it. I think this kind of stuff is best left over a coffee. after tux said two old ladies last Monday I have refused to get into a tit for tat. you may have noticed I just said keep surfing.

how about it, you know, we just go for the cheap laughs and leave the heavy hitting stuff out.

cheers


Shame you deleted your post while I was off line and Tux is entitled to his opinion just like you,you asked a question so I answered it to the best of my knowledge and if thats too much for some well they need to HTFU.

Macaha
QLD, 21977 posts
23 May 2017 6:26PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
Cobra said..
Lacey great thread, but will people answer this truthfully.

For me watching old blokes surf short boards is hysterical watching a bloke trimming along a wave
pulling off the slowest of cutbacks if you'd call it a cut back,,they never forget the throwing of the arms
it makes the turn slash BBhahahaha,,,then the weakest of pumps even weaker bottom turn
,,,,,,sorry forgot what im saying as I'm pissing myself laughing.

TRULY disregard my post and keep slashing it under the lip cranking off the bottom and getting air off the lip
because you are throwing that short board around like a pig dog with a toy.

and remember when walking out of the surf ,suck the gutt in,pull that combover back
BECAUSE You have that 6'2" under your wing and you owned that sesh.


haha well said.

laceys lane
QLD, 19804 posts
23 May 2017 6:26PM
Thumbs Up

Select to expand quote
Ricardo1709 said..
I know the feeling of going from a mal to a shortboard especially when you get a bit older,Im 57 this year 80 kg and after Ive surfed a mal for a few days my shortboard feels like a toothpick,thats why i bought a 39ltr shorty as its high volume feels better than my 32ltr 6'2 and lets me step down not so drastically in one go,that flying fish you bought Id buy at stock size 36ltr ,everyone says volume shouldn't be the be all and end all,but most good shapers know where to place it to deliver a good refined board with the extra foam where its needed,I rely on volume a lot for boards now then eyeball its lines and how it feels under the arm.If you still want to ride shortboards adjust the board accordingly.
Keep surfing


I think the big thing is on a longboard you can get up any old how where the shortboards getups you have a specific/ method process to nail it/ on point first up.
now the mals are fun no doubt .



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"When did you 'give in'." started by laceys lane