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Singles, Mids and anything else not LB

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Created by SP > 9 months ago, 6 Aug 2015
MickPC
8266 posts
24 Nov 2016 3:29PM
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Post your 8 pic sequence dripster.

SW hammerings are pretty common for anyone, you only have to be in the wrong place at the wrong time to have your world suddenly turn on its or your end

My worst time was walking all the way round to Cobblestones from South Point, paddling straight out into a set & having my board broken on the first wave. Sitting that day out watching my mates have a great time a little further up at Big Rock. Buying a board off Neko Padaratz that arvo & breaking that a couple of days later at supertubes...bloody good board too

Actually not my worst time, I've had a few near death experiences, but at least they gave me stories to tell & not broken boards

SP
10982 posts
24 Nov 2016 3:39PM
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Ted the Kiwi said...
Similar over here - never heard it called 7ft - but 6 and 8 or 6-8 ! 7 never gets a run Different scale over east mind you



Yeah, even 5 foot sounds weird..

Speaking of weird reports

Read the early report??




Any one that lives on the east coast should be able to spot the error.




chrispy
WA, 9675 posts
24 Nov 2016 4:07PM
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Blacktown ?

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
24 Nov 2016 4:53PM
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MickPC said...
Post your 8 pic sequence dripster.

SW hammerings are pretty common for anyone, you only have to be in the wrong place at the wrong time to have your world suddenly turn on its or your end

My worst time was walking all the way round to Cobblestones from South Point, paddling straight out into a set & having my board broken on the first wave. Sitting that day out watching my mates have a great time a little further up at Big Rock. Buying a board off Neko Padaratz that arvo & breaking that a couple of days later at supertubes...bloody good board too

Actually not my worst time, I've had a few near death experiences, but at least they gave me stories to tell & not broken boards


The sequence was a photocopy so it's really poor quality. I'll ask Tim if has the pics now next time I am down there.

Memorable beatings?

Getting in the way of someone taking off as I scrambled for the shoulder at 10-12 E Bombie and going over backwards in the lip as the poor bastard went over his nose. Yes he did have words to say when we surfaced.

2. E Bombie again. Stuffing a take off, curling into a ball as I fell out of the lip so no arms got dislocated and being dragged and dragged and dragged. And dragged. And dragged. And realising I wasn't coming up, so opened my arms and legs to increase drag so the foam would release me. Popped up seeing stars.

3. E Bombie. Again. dunno how I got there, but opening my eyes and not being able to see the surface because I was so deep (I used to look for the light), then climbing my legrope. Oxygen starved and desperate for a breath I got to the "surface" only to realise the foam was about two feet thick and I couldn't breathe still, yet I couldn't get on top of the foam. Flailing panicked arms eventually cleared it enough to get a good breath. One breath. Then the next wave rolled over me.

3. Solid Guillotines. Stuffed a take off. Bounced down the face on my back like a skipping rock. Got to the bottom then had the lip land on me. Saw it coming and just felt sick. Paddled out and got hassled for wasting waves by a bloke who had pulled back on his previous two. WTF?

4. Margies Bombie. Bitch slapped like boxer fighting four divisions higher than he should. Funnily enough it was only about five foot, but geez when it gets it gets you. Then was dragged through the nigger heads on the inside.

Good times.

Try to avoid putting myself in those times these days.

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
24 Nov 2016 4:58PM
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MickPC said...
Post your 8 pic sequence dripster.

SW hammerings are pretty common for anyone, you only have to be in the wrong place at the wrong time to have your world suddenly turn on its or your end

My worst time was walking all the way round to Cobblestones from South Point, paddling straight out into a set & having my board broken on the first wave. Sitting that day out watching my mates have a great time a little further up at Big Rock. Buying a board off Neko Padaratz that arvo & breaking that a couple of days later at supertubes...bloody good board too

Actually not my worst time, I've had a few near death experiences, but at least they gave me stories to tell & not broken boards


One and only time I surfed Supertubes - it's in my backhand - I didn't make five takeoffs. The last wave I finished up standing in knee deep water with my board under my arm as a five footer went too to bottom and broke on me. Decided I wasn't good enough and in.

Not sure why I haven't been back in the last 20 years.

Ted the Kiwi
NSW, 14256 posts
24 Nov 2016 9:29PM
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SP said..

Ted the Kiwi said...
Similar over here - never heard it called 7ft - but 6 and 8 or 6-8 ! 7 never gets a run Different scale over east mind you



Speaking of weird reports

Read the early report??




Probably was listening to the Pet Shop boys whilst posting that

Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
25 Nov 2016 7:59AM
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MickPC said..
Post your 8 pic sequence dripster.

SW hammerings are pretty common for anyone, you only have to be in the wrong place at the wrong time to have your world suddenly turn on its or your end

My worst time was walking all the way round to Cobblestones from South Point, paddling straight out into a set & having my board broken on the first wave. Sitting that day out watching my mates have a great time a little further up at Big Rock. Buying a board off Neko Padaratz that arvo & breaking that a couple of days later at supertubes...bloody good board too

Actually not my worst time, I've had a few near death experiences, but at least they gave me stories to tell & not broken boards



Best description I've heard of main break

Margs main break any number of times

Boatramp Bombie - Big day as 14 year old got talked into by a mate of my dads went out and it was every inch of ****ing big and ****ing scary got one all got got another one and went straight over with the lip and got flogged until I thought i was going to die...on the paddle back out Dads mate asked me when I kept trying to catch insiders..stayed for a little while getting shoulders as the swell was on the up...went back in teh arvoi and saw a wave nearly close out the bay and whitewater mow a windsufer on his way out...the whitewater was over his mast

North Point - Couldn't decide to pull in or eject at the bottom of the take off...que lip to head neck near the take off...rocks...beats downs...sets to head

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
25 Nov 2016 6:19AM
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You a goofy or a natural, Tux?

MickPC
8266 posts
25 Nov 2016 8:53AM
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Tux said..



MickPC said..
Post your 8 pic sequence dripster.

SW hammerings are pretty common for anyone, you only have to be in the wrong place at the wrong time to have your world suddenly turn on its or your end

My worst time was walking all the way round to Cobblestones from South Point, paddling straight out into a set & having my board broken on the first wave. Sitting that day out watching my mates have a great time a little further up at Big Rock. Buying a board off Neko Padaratz that arvo & breaking that a couple of days later at supertubes...bloody good board too

Actually not my worst time, I've had a few near death experiences, but at least they gave me stories to tell & not broken boards






Best description I've heard of main break

Margs main break any number of times

Boatramp Bombie - Big day as 14 year old got talked into by a mate of my dads went out and it was every inch of ****ing big and ****ing scary got one all got got another one and went straight over with the lip and got flogged until I thought i was going to die...on the paddle back out Dads mate asked me when I kept trying to catch insiders..stayed for a little while getting shoulders as the swell was on the up...went back in teh arvoi and saw a wave nearly close out the bay and whitewater mow a windsufer on his way out...the whitewater was over his mast

North Point - Couldn't decide to pull in or eject at the bottom of the take off...que lip to head neck near the take off...rocks...beats downs...sets to head




Sh1t mate, that must have been a bloody big day at Bombie for a 14yo fark

I've surfed it heaps but only on days with hardly any wind & very small by bombie standards. Like just over double head in summer on the lower tide mostly going left. Seen Tom Carrol surf it bloody big a couple of times, bloody good to watch.

Many a beating at North Point like you described haha its good for that

My scariest story was Margs main break. Westerly plus plus swell, sitting on the shoulder with Dave Macaulay sitting deeper & further out. Had a few big wide ones with very little wall, just top turn, cutback, top turn, cutback all the way in pretty much going straight. About 3 to 4 times overhead.

I paddled for this wave & missed it. Then turned around to see something like 20 foot of steep whitewater churning towards me that had broken out 1/2 way to China. I jumped off my board & swam as deep as my leggy would allow, felt this sudden increase in water preassue as an extra 20 foot of water passed over me...a pull on my leg & then nothing. The dreaded broken leggy.

I started swimming in & Dave asked if I was ok. I said yeah no worries, just gonna swim in & find my board. But I didn't realize how much Northerly current there was rushing across the reef on the inside. I was swimming in for like 20 minutes getting tired when I realized I was now 1/2 way between the mainbreak & rivermouth & I was not getting any closer to shore.

(As you guys know) Normally when your stuck in a rip you don't swim against it, you swim to the side or let it take you out & then come in another way. I've got mainbreak on one side where I'd washed across from, the box & reefs in front of it with huge waves & whitewater on the other side. I was starting to think I would have to go around behind the box, navigate my way through a minefield of random reefs off Killkarnup & come in at Killkarnup bay about 3km to the North.

I'd just kinda stopped swimming & was waiting to see where this damn current was taking me when a huge set broke between mainbreak & the box. Its does this occasionally when its big & this desperate man saw it as a godsend. The first wave had broken, but it was fat & had a bit of fat wall in front of about 10 foot of whitewater. I swam my ass off & body surfed it for a bit before getting rag dolled towards shore with the first & then following 3 or 4 waves. This got me onto the reef running onto the shore just to the South of rivermouth & I then 1/2 swam 1/2 got hammered across that with a few waves....Stoked!..I didn't die

Almost kissed the ground, walked up & there's my board leaning against the stairs up to the carpark. Never found out who grabbed it for me, some legend

Ted the Kiwi
NSW, 14256 posts
25 Nov 2016 2:47PM
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Heavy story Mick. Sounds horrible. Next time wear two leg ropes

MickPC
8266 posts
25 Nov 2016 12:04PM
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Ted the Kiwi said..
Heavy story Mick. Sounds horrible. Next time wear two leg ropes


hahaha...there won't be a next time bro...I hope

SP
10982 posts
25 Nov 2016 12:10PM
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chrispy said..
Blacktown ?


Yeah maybe Hunter Valley Vineyards????

Last time i looked the coast ran north to south..


Great stories boys keep them coming..

chrispy
WA, 9675 posts
25 Nov 2016 12:42PM
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SP said...
chrispy said..
Blacktown ?


Yeah maybe Hunter Valley Vineyards????

Last time i looked the coast ran north to south..


Great stories boys keep them coming..


I laughed when I read it...I originally wrote morrieset

Ted the Kiwi
NSW, 14256 posts
25 Nov 2016 3:55PM
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That's not far from here Chrispy - it is West they have a very very hot chilli plantation there. Super duper pain threshold required.

chrispy
WA, 9675 posts
25 Nov 2016 1:03PM
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Ted the Kiwi said...
That's not far from here Chrispy - it is West they have a very very hot chilli plantation there. Super duper pain threshold required.


I got sent to a Christian camp there when I was young as my mum thought that would Fark me.... god could not even help them ... After a prayer night for me they awoke hoping some miracle had happened and the camp group would not be under my misfit control....

Well when i awoke...I did so with more fire in my belly ....they then sent me home

smh
NSW, 7269 posts
25 Nov 2016 5:03PM
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check this chilli eating session. The guy in the black is from the central coast so maybe its him.

MickPC
8266 posts
25 Nov 2016 2:41PM
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smh said..

check this chilli eating session. The guy in the black is from the central coast so maybe its him.


hahaha they talked me out of trying them, I don't mind spicy but I soon learnt to say "no hot, no spicy" in Thailand

SP
10982 posts
25 Nov 2016 2:52PM
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^^ Hahaha. When we were there a mate went to piss just after we ordered, we called the waiter back and asked.if we could get it with extra chilli.... bloody hilarious...



This is a good one..

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Underoath said...
This was a few years ago.




MickPC
8266 posts
25 Nov 2016 3:53PM
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SP said..
^^ Hahaha. When we were there a mate went to piss just after we ordered, we called the waiter back and asked.if we could get it with extra chilli.... bloody hilarious...



Not hilarious, plain evil mate

We told one place just a little spicy...damn, hottest food I've ever attempted to eat in my life...even no spicy is spicy as fark in Thailand lol

SP
10982 posts
26 Nov 2016 10:15AM
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Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
29 Nov 2016 9:14AM
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MickPC said..

Tux said..




MickPC said..
Post your 8 pic sequence dripster.

SW hammerings are pretty common for anyone, you only have to be in the wrong place at the wrong time to have your world suddenly turn on its or your end

My worst time was walking all the way round to Cobblestones from South Point, paddling straight out into a set & having my board broken on the first wave. Sitting that day out watching my mates have a great time a little further up at Big Rock. Buying a board off Neko Padaratz that arvo & breaking that a couple of days later at supertubes...bloody good board too

Actually not my worst time, I've had a few near death experiences, but at least they gave me stories to tell & not broken boards







Best description I've heard of main break

Margs main break any number of times

Boatramp Bombie - Big day as 14 year old got talked into by a mate of my dads went out and it was every inch of ****ing big and ****ing scary got one all got got another one and went straight over with the lip and got flogged until I thought i was going to die...on the paddle back out Dads mate asked me when I kept trying to catch insiders..stayed for a little while getting shoulders as the swell was on the up...went back in teh arvoi and saw a wave nearly close out the bay and whitewater mow a windsufer on his way out...the whitewater was over his mast

North Point - Couldn't decide to pull in or eject at the bottom of the take off...que lip to head neck near the take off...rocks...beats downs...sets to head





Sh1t mate, that must have been a bloody big day at Bombie for a 14yo fark

I've surfed it heaps but only on days with hardly any wind & very small by bombie standards. Like just over double head in summer on the lower tide mostly going left. Seen Tom Carrol surf it bloody big a couple of times, bloody good to watch.

Many a beating at North Point like you described haha its good for that

My scariest story was Margs main break. Westerly plus plus swell, sitting on the shoulder with Dave Macaulay sitting deeper & further out. Had a few big wide ones with very little wall, just top turn, cutback, top turn, cutback all the way in pretty much going straight. About 3 to 4 times overhead.

I paddled for this wave & missed it. Then turned around to see something like 20 foot of steep whitewater churning towards me that had broken out 1/2 way to China. I jumped off my board & swam as deep as my leggy would allow, felt this sudden increase in water preassue as an extra 20 foot of water passed over me...a pull on my leg & then nothing. The dreaded broken leggy.

I started swimming in & Dave asked if I was ok. I said yeah no worries, just gonna swim in & find my board. But I didn't realize how much Northerly current there was rushing across the reef on the inside. I was swimming in for like 20 minutes getting tired when I realized I was now 1/2 way between the mainbreak & rivermouth & I was not getting any closer to shore.

(As you guys know) Normally when your stuck in a rip you don't swim against it, you swim to the side or let it take you out & then come in another way. I've got mainbreak on one side where I'd washed across from, the box & reefs in front of it with huge waves & whitewater on the other side. I was starting to think I would have to go around behind the box, navigate my way through a minefield of random reefs off Killkarnup & come in at Killkarnup bay about 3km to the North.

I'd just kinda stopped swimming & was waiting to see where this damn current was taking me when a huge set broke between mainbreak & the box. Its does this occasionally when its big & this desperate man saw it as a godsend. The first wave had broken, but it was fat & had a bit of fat wall in front of about 10 foot of whitewater. I swam my ass off & body surfed it for a bit before getting rag dolled towards shore with the first & then following 3 or 4 waves. This got me onto the reef running onto the shore just to the South of rivermouth & I then 1/2 swam 1/2 got hammered across that with a few waves....Stoked!..I didn't die

Almost kissed the ground, walked up & there's my board leaning against the stairs up to the carpark. Never found out who grabbed it for me, some legend


**** me thats hectic

I'm a natural footer Drip

SP
10982 posts
6 Dec 2016 7:16AM
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stabmag.com/stabcinema/dual-dreams-craig-anderson-ozzie-wright-twin-fins-wa/


Stab, Craig Anderson, Ozzie Wright and Damion Fuller aka The Boardcollector grabbed six vintage twin fins from different shapers, from different places, all with different design features, and headed into the desert with host Ry Craike, to find some barrels and put the ideas to the test. Despite a swell prediction of eight-to-10 feet, Craig requested 5’7” to 5’10”s and Ozzie asked for 5’3” to 5’7”s…

SP
10982 posts
8 Dec 2016 11:49AM
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<div>Published on Mar 14, 2016

<div>Joel Tudor breaks down his quiver.

<div>CategorySports

SP
10982 posts
9 Dec 2016 2:04PM
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Irons was, and remains, one of the greatest talents surfing has ever known.

In this very special episode of Board Tales, we take a look inside the 3x World Champ’s garage, which over the course of his life became a storage place for his prized possessions and memorabilia.

Trophies, personal photos and, of course, countless iconic boards are just a few of the items inside that Andy’s close friend Joel Parkinson, wife Lyndie Irons and brother Bruce Irons discover and share with us as they tell stories from Andy’s legendary life and career.

chrispy
WA, 9675 posts
9 Dec 2016 2:07PM
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I liked this

SP
10982 posts
9 Dec 2016 2:11PM
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Yeah. Its good.

What a garage.. all the toys

SP
10982 posts
9 Dec 2016 3:13PM
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Nice midlength. Click through more photos and a story.
img]


deuscustoms.com/blog/introducing-the-sherpa/

MickPC
8266 posts
9 Dec 2016 8:36PM
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#t=266.955788

MickPC
8266 posts
12 Dec 2016 9:43PM
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No soup for you!!!

MickPC
8266 posts
15 Dec 2016 7:27AM
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"Singles, Mids and anything else not LB" started by SP