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Singles, Mids and anything else not LB

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Created by SP > 9 months ago, 6 Aug 2015
smh
NSW, 7269 posts
16 Nov 2016 9:12PM
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I had a look at that Al. I'll have to hire a 666 I guess. There's a few places around I've heard.

Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
17 Nov 2016 9:05AM
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This is a c#nt of place to try and get out when its this...I usually go the loooooooooooooooong way


Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
17 Nov 2016 9:11AM
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smh said..
I had a look at that Al. I'll have to hire a 666 I guess. There's a few places around I've heard.


Practice your fighting skills...I saw more punch ups at Kasiers and Ala Moana than I did on the North shore

SP
10982 posts
17 Nov 2016 9:12AM
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Tux said..

smh said..
I had a look at that Al. I'll have to hire a 666 I guess. There's a few places around I've heard.



Practice your fighting skills...I saw more punch ups at Kasiers and Ala Moana than I did on the North shore


I Didn't bother with either of them...


Koa board sports or Big Wave Dave were the best hire joints i found, street back from the duke statue, have storage and good to deal with.

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
17 Nov 2016 11:50AM
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Tux said...
This is a c#nt of place to try and get out when its this...I usually go the loooooooooooooooong way





There's a local guy who grew up there and left when he 30. He has a few "survival on the high seas" stories. He about 55 and still charges. Loves his single fins. Mine are based on his. He used to do lots of swimming to train for the paddle outs and the clean up sets. He is one of those guys who is out there by himself when everyone else is watching.

Mick, 5 or 6 times head high. Huge. Never seen it that big again so I am guessing (pre-Internet swell buoys) it was 6-8m swell. And offshore.

smh
NSW, 7269 posts
17 Nov 2016 4:14PM
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Tux said..
This is a c#nt of place to try and get out when its this...I usually go the loooooooooooooooong way


Tux said..

smh said..
I had a look at that Al. I'll have to hire a 666 I guess. There's a few places around I've heard.



Practice your fighting skills...I saw more punch ups at Kasiers and Ala Moana than I did on the North shore




I wont be going out either of those spots.

smh
NSW, 7269 posts
17 Nov 2016 4:16PM
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SP said..

Tux said..


smh said..
I had a look at that Al. I'll have to hire a 666 I guess. There's a few places around I've heard.




Practice your fighting skills...I saw more punch ups at Kasiers and Ala Moana than I did on the North shore



I Didn't bother with either of them...


Koa board sports or Big Wave Dave were the best hire joints i found, street back from the duke statue, have storage and good to deal with.


I'll check them out SP. Thanks for the heads up.

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
17 Nov 2016 4:06PM
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smh said...
Tux said..
This is a c#nt of place to try and get out when its this...I usually go the loooooooooooooooong way


Tux said..

smh said..
I had a look at that Al. I'll have to hire a 666 I guess. There's a few places around I've heard.



Practice your fighting skills...I saw more punch ups at Kasiers and Ala Moana than I did on the North shore




I wont be going out either of those spots.



I assumed it was the same spot?

smh
NSW, 7269 posts
17 Nov 2016 7:26PM
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thedrip said..

smh said...

Tux said..
This is a c#nt of place to try and get out when its this...I usually go the loooooooooooooooong way



Tux said..


smh said..
I had a look at that Al. I'll have to hire a 666 I guess. There's a few places around I've heard.




Practice your fighting skills...I saw more punch ups at Kasiers and Ala Moana than I did on the North shore





I wont be going out either of those spots.




I assumed it was the same spot?


i was talking about Kaisers and Ala Moana not that spot in Vicco .

Macaha
QLD, 21976 posts
17 Nov 2016 6:35PM
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smh said..
I'm heading over there next year Mac. A guy I surf with reckons theres a spot called Pops that is also good. I'll just hire out a barge over there.



Yeah both good spots you'll love that place which month are you going?

Agree with SP Kona and Big Wave Dave.

MickPC
8266 posts
18 Nov 2016 12:19PM
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thedrip said..


Tux said...
This is a c#nt of place to try and get out when its this...I usually go the loooooooooooooooong way






There's a local guy who grew up there and left when he 30. He has a few "survival on the high seas" stories. He about 55 and still charges. Loves his single fins. Mine are based on his. He used to do lots of swimming to train for the paddle outs and the clean up sets. He is one of those guys who is out there by himself when everyone else is watching.

Mick, 5 or 6 times head high. Huge. Never seen it that big again so I am guessing (pre-Internet swell buoys) it was 6-8m swell. And offshore.



Whoa 5 to 6 times SW over head is very different to 5 to 6 overhead Indo, so much power...so how was the farm that day then? Must have been cranking

Probably even had waves in Busso that day

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
18 Nov 2016 12:41PM
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This was before they damned the creek so the bank at the farm epic. A big peak out in the middle of the bay. The lefts were awesome - wally not barrelling like the right and the elk around was the go if you got caught - and the right was every bit of six foot. Super crowded but I was young so I got my unfair share. on a katana 6'6".

And at that stage I didn't even know Busso had a beach. Gero boy with a Busso farmer girlfriend so I just drove through the town from the farm for two years before I saw that part of the bay.

smh
NSW, 7269 posts
18 Nov 2016 5:18PM
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Macaha said..

smh said..
I'm heading over there next year Mac. A guy I surf with reckons theres a spot called Pops that is also good. I'll just hire out a barge over there.




Yeah both good spots you'll love that place which month are you going?

Agree with SP Kona and Big Wave Dave.


Probably May Mac. It wont be a serious surf trip at all. I'll be bobbing around with the rest of the tourists

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
19 Nov 2016 11:40PM
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thedrip said...
The outline has been drawn and cut out. These got ordered last March (2015). Hopefully they are completed this year. 9'6" X 21 1/2 X as much as he can get out of the blank (around 3 1/2 Tom reckons - maybe a smidge more) and 8' X 21 1/2 X whatever he can keep (3 1/4 roughly maybe).




But they are babies next to this behemoth 12 footer. I simply can't imagine the waves it is capable of surfing, although I have seen pics of it in action at huge Margies. It gets stored at the factory for space reasons.




The broccoli board on the left, and four more out of frame, are for two Queensland blokes. Keep an eye out for them surfing five fin Precision Equip surfboards.

These two for me are the first boards I will have with The Claw, despite having 7 boards off Tom over the years.




Found a copy of one of pics of the big yellow board in action. Big board for big waves. In the next few pics in the sequence (which I have seen but don't have) the guy floundering around in the base of the wave misses out on being decapitated by a foot or two.

How big do you reckon this wave is? The board make the wave look "not that big", then I zoom in and see the size of the guy compared to the face. He is 6'5" btw.

The pic makes me want to be rocked gently to sleep by my mum.





chrispy
WA, 9675 posts
20 Nov 2016 2:41AM
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When you are paddling vertically to get over waves you know it's big

Get your grom a haircut

How could have missed all this.....can't wait for your action shots on it drip...I will be sipping tea in my favorite chair while you are testing mach speed and maximum lung capacity

SP
10982 posts
22 Nov 2016 8:37AM
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Logs, eggs, bonzers, keeled twins, thrusters, you name it, Tyler has shaped it, surfed it and generally appreciated it more than you. Welcome to the latest episode of Board Tales featuring artist, slash shaper, slash silk freesurfer Tyler Warren. He's a creative guy with a professor's degree in surfboard history and design (not really but you get the picture). What you'll dig about Tyler is his enthusiasm towards experimentation, so much so you might develop an itch to bust your comfort bubble and mix up your go-to quiver rotation for something a little more colourful.“You try one thing then move onto the next," says Tyler. "It’s fun just to feel all the different feelings that a board can have. Fin placement or what kind of fins your putting on there all affects the ride and makes it interesting, it creates new stoke in surfing to have something new to ride."

MickPC
8266 posts
22 Nov 2016 9:17AM
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thedrip said...


Found a copy of one of pics of the big yellow board in action. Big board for big waves. In the next few pics in the sequence (which I have seen but don't have) the guy floundering around in the base of the wave misses out on being decapitated by a foot or two.

How big do you reckon this wave is? The board make the wave look "not that big", then I zoom in and see the size of the guy compared to the face. He is 6'5" btw.

The pic makes me want to be rocked gently to sleep by my mum.







haha yeah I would not like to be that guy floundering, did the guy go above or around him?

I'd call it 3 to 4 times overhead or about 20 foot face, I tend to round sizes when it gets over double head

Cuttlefish
QLD, 1332 posts
22 Nov 2016 6:31PM
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www.tracksmag.com.au/ride-guide-2016

smh
NSW, 7269 posts
22 Nov 2016 7:52PM
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MickPC said...
thedrip said...


Found a copy of one of pics of the big yellow board in action. Big board for big waves. In the next few pics in the sequence (which I have seen but don't have) the guy floundering around in the base of the wave misses out on being decapitated by a foot or two.

How big do you reckon this wave is? The board make the wave look "not that big", then I zoom in and see the size of the guy compared to the face. He is 6'5" btw.

The pic makes me want to be rocked gently to sleep by my mum.







haha yeah I would not like to be that guy floundering, did the guy go above or around him?

I'd call it 3 to 4 times overhead or about 20 foot face, I tend to round sizes when it gets over double head


i would have said 10 - 12 feet .

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
22 Nov 2016 5:04PM
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smh said...
MickPC said...
thedrip said...


Found a copy of one of pics of the big yellow board in action. Big board for big waves. In the next few pics in the sequence (which I have seen but don't have) the guy floundering around in the base of the wave misses out on being decapitated by a foot or two.

How big do you reckon this wave is? The board make the wave look "not that big", then I zoom in and see the size of the guy compared to the face. He is 6'5" btw.

The pic makes me want to be rocked gently to sleep by my mum.







haha yeah I would not like to be that guy floundering, did the guy go above or around him?

I'd call it 3 to 4 times overhead or about 20 foot face, I tend to round sizes when it gets over double head


i would have said 10 - 12 feet .


Nah...6 foot

Photos from today.






Surf reports from today. Only 6/10 and 3/10.









The Bombie in the first pic is markedly bigger than the wave with the surfer. Only 3-4 apparently.

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
22 Nov 2016 5:36PM
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haha yeah I would not like to be that guy floundering, did the guy go above or around him?

I'd call it 3 to 4 times overhead or about 20 foot face, I tend to round sizes when it gets over double head


He went above him, caught a nose rail, then fell off. The sequence is seven or eight shots. Bith the boys got demolished.

I dunno. Everyone goes on about how when Margies is that big the Masters should move to NP. I personally think a survival in the high seas and surfing that well should be part of the criteria for world champ, not just riding a perfect 6-8 barrel. Gives the Aussies a chance against the Zillas and barrel aficionados like JF.

smh
NSW, 7269 posts
23 Nov 2016 10:52AM
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thedrip said..

smh said...

MickPC said...

thedrip said...


Found a copy of one of pics of the big yellow board in action. Big board for big waves. In the next few pics in the sequence (which I have seen but don't have) the guy floundering around in the base of the wave misses out on being decapitated by a foot or two.

How big do you reckon this wave is? The board make the wave look "not that big", then I zoom in and see the size of the guy compared to the face. He is 6'5" btw.

The pic makes me want to be rocked gently to sleep by my mum.








haha yeah I would not like to be that guy floundering, did the guy go above or around him?

I'd call it 3 to 4 times overhead or about 20 foot face, I tend to round sizes when it gets over double head



i would have said 10 - 12 feet .



Nah...6 foot

Photos from today.






Surf reports from today. Only 6/10 and 3/10.









The Bombie in the first pic is markedly bigger than the wave with the surfer. Only 3-4 apparently.



6foot ? Looking at that guy standing there it looks 4 times overhead. Its got to be bigger than 6 foot . decent size wave nonetheless

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
23 Nov 2016 12:19PM
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I was poking fun at the surf reports and surfers propensity to understate size.. Got lost in translation I guess.

Personally I would have called it 12-15 foot for the big wave. The board is 12 foot long.

MickPC
8266 posts
23 Nov 2016 1:16PM
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thedrip said..

He went above him, caught a nose rail, then fell off. The sequence is seven or eight shots. Bith the boys got demolished. I dunno. Everyone goes on about how when Margies is that big the Masters should move to NP. I personally think a survival in the high seas and surfing that well should be part of the criteria for world champ, not just riding a perfect 6-8 barrel. Gives the Aussies a chance against the Zillas and barrel aficionados like JF.



Above! Geez that guy must have been sh1tting himself, would be cool to see the full sequence mate.

I agree...why hold a contest at a reknown big wave spot if you move the contest when it gets big...although I'd rather surf a big day at margs than an average day at the box

Do you remember that year the Masters was held & it was huge. There was some great footage of Pauline Mencer going over the falls & Tom Curren surfed one into the rivermouth. Something no one could recall anyone ever doing before. Unfortunately they never showed any footage of him doing it on the telly, so dunno if there ever was some. I've tryed to find footage but havn't been able to, was early 90's about '92.

I ended up on a follow up show called "shut up & surf" surfing a couple of waves at South Point. Shown on channel ten, I asked for a copy of the show about 6 years later but they said they didn't keep anything. It was all shot by some guys from Vic on contract who had all the footage & they couldn't release details.. Would love to have got hold of the offcuts. Seems like most stuff from before the digital age has been lost & gravity has blown most vhs recordings.

chrispy
WA, 9675 posts
23 Nov 2016 2:26PM
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Wow I'm getting old....i would not have even put a 12 there and just called it 15 foot....

And at that size how can you call someone floundering....i call them haha hahaha from me being nervous

Surf69
WA, 883 posts
24 Nov 2016 9:04AM
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chrispy said..
Wow I'm getting old....i would not have even put a 12 there and just called it 15 foot....

And at that size how can you call someone floundering....i call them haha hahaha from me being nervous


A bit of a running joke with my mates over the years. Everything on the SW of WA has to have a 12...it is written

Can only be 10-12 or 12-15 either way there must be a 12.

Ted the Kiwi
NSW, 14256 posts
24 Nov 2016 12:24PM
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Similar over here - never heard it called 7ft - but 6 and 8 or 6-8 ! 7 never gets a run Different scale over east mind you

Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
24 Nov 2016 2:06PM
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thedrip said..


I agree regarding Margies...personally I always found it super challenging there once it was over 6 foot...the jack on that place is crazy

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
24 Nov 2016 11:58AM
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Tux said...
thedrip said..


I agree regarding Margies...personally I always found it super challenging there once it was over 6 foot...the jack on that place is crazy




The best description I have heard for solid Margies is that it's like a container ship hitting the reef then turning sideways and swinging in at you before stopping and standing up to break.

I got a brand new twin fin back 2001 and stayed at a mates house that night. The next day I had a truly legendary hangover - someone had a knitting needle and was stabbing my brain and I vomitted twice between Margaret River and Prevelly. I paddled out on the twinny into 6-8 foot Margies. The equipment was woefully inadequate to begin with and with my hangover, the first five waves had me paddling over the falls. I was so slow I didn't even try to get up, just paddled into my flogging and went over head first. Then I paddled across to Southsides and got a couple. I never surfed the twinny out there again.

Ted the Kiwi
NSW, 14256 posts
24 Nov 2016 4:15PM
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Nice story



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"Singles, Mids and anything else not LB" started by SP