Congrats. Serious asymm kite prodder and anchor off the bow fitting. What is the yachts model and manufacturer?
Select to expand quoter13 said..
Congrats. Serious asymm kite prodder and anchor off the bow fitting. What is the yachts model and manufacturer?
Thanks 
.
Jarkan 10.5
Gday Woohoo - I would seriously worry about that prodder. Congrats on the new boat and Jarkans are nice but that prodder is very agricultural and will bend or break under any serious load. The PO must have used it only in the lightest of winds.
Also I don't like the way the anchor roller sticks out so far. That could cause issues in a choppy anchorage.
It looks to me like the PO got a bit silly with the desire to fly a Code zero and played around with the roller to fit it. My advice would be to get the anchor roller back closer to the bow and start the prodder idea from scratch. I have "designed" and built a couple of prodders. They can be great but they can get some serious loads on them.
Not meaning to be a killjoy but the roller/prodder will almost certainly cause issues and that would be bad. Good luck with the new boat.
Phil
Select to expand quoteKankama said..
Gday Woohoo - I would seriously worry about that prodder. Congrats on the new boat and Jarkans are nice but that prodder is very agricultural and will bend or break under any serious load. The PO must have used it only in the lightest of winds.
Also I don't like the way the anchor roller sticks out so far. That could cause issues in a choppy anchorage.
It looks to me like the PO got a bit silly with the desire to fly a Code zero and played around with the roller to fit it. My advice would be to get the anchor roller back closer to the bow and start the prodder idea from scratch. I have "designed" and built a couple of prodders. They can be great but they can get some serious loads on them.
Not meaning to be a killjoy but the roller/prodder will almost certainly cause issues and that would be bad. Good luck with the new boat.
Phil
Thanks Phil.
All advice considered.
Yeah ...she has good bones, however, there is a long list of improvements to be made.
PO is a very blase bloke with an overdeveloped attitude of she'll be right.
The prodder is being removed definitely.
What would you advise about the anchor roller?
This one actually appealed as my previous boat had a more plumb bow and wind against tide always left me with scuffs and bits out of the stem. I thought this might be an improvement?
Btw, new Manson Supreme is already ordered.
My thoughts on the roller were that it sticks a long way out the front and is unsupported for most of that length. In a seaway you will get serious downward acting forces on the roller. I can't see how the roller will resist those forces. Getting the whole roller back closer to the bow will help, reducing ovehang and increasing roller engagement with the deck will help. The roller itself does not look dodgy, just how far it is sticking out is the worry. Somehow the torque produced by the roller with the boat pitching up in a rock anchorage will have to resisted by the amount of roller connected to the deck. I would always want much more roller in contact with the deck than hanging out over the front to get the loads down on the deck.
As for scuffs - a good cruising boat has a raked bow - or a bowsprit, so hopefully the amount of rake will keep the bow nicer.
Actually - maybe the PO wanted to put a roll bar anchor on and pushed the roller out forwards to do this. The Supreme may not fit on the roller when in the normal position. Some mono sailors get the Sarca Excel instead so they don't need the roll bar. Maybe ask for the Manson to be put on hold until after you move the roller, or it may not fit when you get the roller nice and strong and back closer to the bow.
cheers
Phil
I actually think the bow roller is fine if your going on a conventional mooring in an area where you have strong wind over tide conditions. Making a garden ornament out of the CQR is a wise move. I would also suggest hauling the Manson Supreme well clear of the bow roller so it does not wear through the riser when on the mooring. The outer end of the bow roller might need some smoothing as well to keep the boat on the mooring in gale force winds and wind over tide. I welded a SS loop on the end of my bow roller to take the tack line for the cruising chute back to the cockpit
This is my bow and it shows how I extended the roller out, not as much as yours but it makes the boat hang off the mooring better. the side anchor roller is a South Australian thing and I must admit it's excellent. In my mooring field most of the boats come off their moorings from abrasion from the outer edge of the roller. The edge of the bow-mounted anchor or the front fairlead, Especially if the boat hangs off one fairlead. Boats that have twin risers to fairleads on either side tend to "sail up" and hook the riser around the keel till the riser wears through. Extending the bow roller a bit solves all these problems.
If the OP was a bit "blase" with his ali pipe, how do I rate?
This is a very light genniker so I am limited to using it.
gary
Thanks Phil and Graham
Will put the brakes on for a while until I think this through.
I'll have plenty of time while I'm cleaning her thoroughly.....diesel and toilet smells and so much mould and mildew 
....yuk!
Select to expand quotegarymalmgren said..
If the OP was a bit "blase" with his ali pipe, how do I rate?
This is a very light genniker so I am limited to using it.
gary
?
Bestest ! more than sewerpipe ? as looks to have decent wall thickness + strengthen with end caps ?
Mason
Select to expand quoteWoohoo said..
Thanks Phil and Graham
Will put the brakes on for a while until I think this through.
I'll have plenty of time while I'm cleaning her thoroughly.....diesel and toilet smells and so much mould and mildew ....yuk!
Persistent Pongs can linger,especially if have got into the fabric. Remove and wash,with Vanish/PineOClean sanitiser,then dry in the sun .
Bosistos is a good neutaliser,but ventilation the key - Installed Hurricane vents (whitworths) in forehatch/cabin top,which creates a flow of air,allowing sails to be kept in the forecabin . Admittedly not a large space,and no diesel,but was green/gross/gagging,and now almost habitable !
+ Big hanging bags of moisture absorber/damprid from Big Green Shed,are good value,and will last a month,if strategically placed .
Mason
So when I design my prodders and other bits on my cat, I have to work out where the the whole system will break. For most boats it is not the structure so that means the shackle or halyard in the case of flying a Code zero. I do this all the time when designing chainplates or beams or anything - make the bit bonded to the boat stronger than the rope or wire it is attached to.
8mm spectra breaks at about 3.3 tonnes. So if a prodder is not going to break (and it shouldn't) then the prodder should be able to take about 4 tonnes upward force at its end. This does not give much margin for error.
I reckon Woohoo's new prodder is about 40cm out from the bow and has a bury of about 20cm. The prodder will rotate lets say clockwise from the bow and the part on the bow resists that torque by producing a torque in the opposite direction. Basically after some calculations you get a lifting force of about 7 tonnes on the forward bolt (if the prodder rotates on the aft bolt). That is a lot of force/torque.
Now there is no way that load will be able to be applied. The round tube looks like about 50mm diameter with about 4 mm thickness. It will fail as a cantilever at much less than the 7 tonnes load.
Select to expand quoteWoohoo said..
Thanks Phil and Graham
Will put the brakes on for a while until I think this through.
I'll have plenty of time while I'm cleaning her thoroughly.....diesel and toilet smells and so much mould and mildew ....yuk!
The ALDI hospital grade cleaner disinfectant works well. After a couple of days spray the areas where the mildew was with cloves mixed with water. Just a couple of drops of cloves is ample and that actually kills the spores. It's very dangerous to breath the fumes so spray a small area holding your breath then depart for the upper-deck! I leave a spray bottle onboard now for those small patches I missed earlier. My boat has excellent ventilation but that does not seem to matter that much if you have a lot of rain for a few days.
Select to expand quotePlanter said..Woohoo said..
Thanks Phil and Graham
Will put the brakes on for a while until I think this through.
I'll have plenty of time while I'm cleaning her thoroughly.....diesel and toilet smells and so much mould and mildew ....yuk!
Persistent Pongs can linger,especially if have got into the fabric. Remove and wash,with Vanish/PineOClean sanitiser,then dry in the sun .
Bosistos is a good neutaliser,but ventilation the key - Installed Hurricane vents (whitworths) in forehatch/cabin top,which creates a flow of air,allowing sails to be kept in the forecabin . Admittedly not a large space,and no diesel,but was green/gross/gagging,and now almost habitable !
+ Big hanging bags of moisture absorber/damprid from Big Green Shed,are good value,and will last a month,if strategically placed .
Mason
Thanks so much Mason for the tips.
I'll look at the Hurricane vents you've mentioned.
Yeah, has definitely penetrated the bunk cushions so they'll need a good clean and airing. Failing that, I'll make new ones.
I agree that ventilation is the key. My old boat had far better ventilation and never smelled bad. However...I was living aboard so it was usually open with lots of fresh air circulating.
It'll be a process making this boat habitable, but I'll get there in time.
Once again, thank you.
Not my boat, the boat my daughter is on.
Her design graphic has made its way onto the 5inch on the HMAS Brisbane.
Select to expand quotecammd said..
Not my boat, the boat my daughter is on.
Her design graphic has made its way onto the 5inch on the HMAS Brisbane.
The girl has some talent! That's really cool Cammd.
Time to replace the engine mounts, Wapiti is fitted with polyflex mounts that are made locally in Brisbane. Easy and cheap I only have to replace the orange cores at $50 ea.
Select to expand quotecammd said..
Time to replace the engine mounts, Wapiti is fitted with polyflex mounts that are made locally in Brisbane. Easy and cheap I only have to replace the orange cores at $50 ea.
Good stuff from Poly Flex.
Very sad to see owner and founder, Brian Gagen, died yesterday. Forever chasing rainbows, 07/03/1942 - 01/04/2025.
Select to expand quoteLazzz said..cammd said..
Time to replace the engine mounts, Wapiti is fitted with polyflex mounts that are made locally in Brisbane. Easy and cheap I only have to replace the orange cores at $50 ea.
Good stuff from Poly Flex.
Very sad to see owner and founder, Brian Gagen, died yesterday. Forever chasing rainbows, 07/03/1942 - 01/04/2025.
That is sad, I had no idea
Cam good job resurrecting this thread.
I finally finished wiring my Nav/Deck/Steaming/Anchor lights into the switch panel and hooked up the new masthead VHF antenna.
Like most times when we return from extended cruising my time is spent doing modifications and cutting new holes in my yacht. This is made so much easier by the fact my cruising yacht is parked next to my workshop garage on its trailer not in the water in some remote location or at an expensive time constrained haulout location somewhere. Also we spent 1.5 days returning from our recent nearly 4 week cruise in The Gippsland Lakes by road not weeks slogging upwind in lousy conditions just to return from South East Victoria to South East South Australia.
Select to expand quotesaltiest1 said..
Sold it
Congratulations! ...and commiserations...
A week and a bit on the hard
Antifoul, Prop speed, new anodes, 1 x new skin fitting, 7 x new seacocks, polish topsides, re coat teak decks , new engine mounts, numerous smaller jobs then back in and a rig check today by a local rigger.
Select to expand quotecammd said..
A week and a bit on the hard
Antifoul, Prop speed, new anodes, 1 x new skin fitting, 7 x new seacocks, polish topsides, re coat teak decks , new engine mounts, numerous smaller jobs then back in and a rig check today by a local rigger.
Glory that's a lot of work, take the rest of the week off. Have the new engine mounts resulted in less vibrations? Were they Polyflex? Was the coupling and alignment ok?
Yes Polyflex engine mounts, I did them one at a time taking care to measure and reset the engine to the same height.
I also have a polyflex coupling, I found it difficult to determine how accurate the alignment is using a feeler guage because the coupling adds an extra face into the mix.
I plan to have a chat at the boat show with the guys from polyflex later this week and see if they have any tips or tricks.
The short trip from the travel lift to the berth seemed pretty good. I always had some bad vibrations between 1000 and 1400 rpm, kettle would rattle on the stove etc, they seem to be gone. I am going to do a bit more testing tied up today an see how it feels
At different revs and double/triple check everything again.
I always find it difficult to feel confident in my work the first time I do something.
I'm going to kick something in to see if anyone can tell me what I can do about it.
2 weeks ago I fitted the new Plastimo flexible tank in my boat in place of the old one. I replaced all the hose with drinking hose and fitted a deck filler at the top of the 38mm filler pipe. All in all it was a nice job, and I was surprised because I normally f**k things up the first time I do them.
Until I drank a cup of tea with the water. The Plastimo tank has badly tainted the water.
I've been through all the cruisers forum posts etc. Didn't like any of the answers.
Is there something I can do to rescue what was quite a neat solution?
Assume you have seen this prior post - seems like a few varied solutions - trust one would work?
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Watertank-clean-and-disinfection?page=1
