Day 2.5 on the slip
Another coat of antifoul this morning and prop speed! Then 3/4 of the hull polished and another 2 hours polishing before the 9.30 am re-launch! I love boats not,
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
You have painted your shaft anode with antifoul. Surely that defeats the purpose of having it there.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..Andrew68 said..
Then glued it back up again with some layers of glass for good measure.
Nice looking composite tiller!
Here it the tiller in action, currently with the auto helm enabled. The Fleming wind vane chain attaches to a bolt and locked on with shock cord just under the extension handle. I usually run the electric unit for about a few minutes to satisfy my self that the wind vane will steer in the correct direction before switching over to the wind vane. It feels like a huge leap of faith to surrender the controls - but it always works happily keeping a constant course for several hours at a time.
That area is usually a bit more tidy with the cords and lines tucked out of site.
Select to expand quotecisco said..southace said..
You have painted your shaft anode with antifoul. Surely that defeats the purpose of having it there.
They last alot longer this way
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
They last alot longer this way
Certainly they would because you are isolating it from the electrical circiut which thereby allows the other metals (bronze propellor, bronze P bracket and stainless shaft) to react with each other via the electrolyte which is the sea water. Think about how a lead/acid battery works. It is called electrolysis.
The least noble of the metals will suffer which will be the bronze. The tin will leach out of the bronze and it will turn pink in colour and become brittle.
The anode is sacrificial and supposed to erode away. They are a lot less expensive to replace than propellors and P brackets.
Your boat and your money so it makes no difference to me. I am merely trying to advise you of a potentially expensive mistake.
Select to expand quotecisco said..southace said..
They last alot longer this way
Certainly they would because you are isolating it from the electrical circiut which thereby allows the other metals (bronze propellor, bronze P bracket and stainless shaft) to react with each other via the electrolyte which is the sea water. Think about how a lead/acid battery works. It is called electrolysis.
The least noble of the metals will suffer which will be the bronze. The tin will leach out of the bronze and it will turn pink in colour and become brittle.
The anode is sacrificial and supposed to erode away. They are a lot less expensive to replace than propellors and P brackets.
Your boat and your money so it makes no difference to me. I am merely trying to advise you of a potentially expensive mistake.
Thanks for such noble advice CISCO kid I spent hours scraping all that antifoul tape off the anode and felt like a right old twit. 3 days 2 coats antifoul, prop speed and cut n polish the 42 foot hull and got a nice sail in this arvo. Btw How's your slipping progress coming along?
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Btw How's your slipping progress coming along?
Two weeks of rain has fairly much killed any progress. Just what you need when you have the cabin windows out.
Icon is looking really good. The first sail or motor after a slipping always has a good feel about it.
Cabin sole was built as platform and the furniture built ontop, it appeared that when access to the bilge was needed it was done by cutting another hole ! Resulting in a jigsaw puzzle that still didn't give full access
And after
A lick of paint in the bilge and now to make some tanks
So I just get out of my pen and engine fails, kick over again, 10m further splutter cough out. Try again, and finally get room to unfurl jib - safe...for now. Find a place to anchor and try to find problem. Sounds like air in fuel...Pull filters, bleed lines, but no success. Winds up to 15 bags, and no way to get back to pen. Hmmm...times like these that you really gotta love sailing. Solution - use your tender, with the trusty 6hp.
First time for me & worked remarkably well pushing an 8tonne boat - rigged tender mostly clear of water so not affected by waves
Select to expand quoteQueequeg said..
Oh dear this is going to take a while!
Oh well, it has been a while since somebody has done what you are doing.
This may be a spiritual experience for you.
Select to expand quoteConcepcion said..
So I just get out of my pen and engine fails, kick over again, 10m further splutter cough out. Try again, and finally get room to unfurl jib - safe...for now. Find a place to anchor and try to find problem. Sounds like air in fuel...Pull filters, bleed lines, but no success. Winds up to 15 bags, and no way to get back to pen. Hmmm...times like these that you really gotta love sailing. Solution - use your tender, with the trusty 6hp.
First time for me & worked remarkably well pushing an 8tonne boat - rigged tender mostly clear of water so not affected by
Thanks for shearing this idea, it is worth to remember. When I had move my previous boat I was towing it with dinghy, there was many insults thrown at the time by me (nobody heard, it was only me). Your way is beterer, kill switch may be on long string I do guess.
Select to expand quoteQueequeg said..
Oh dear this is going to take a while!
I really like Lewmar, this winch was a mess but after some serious "talking to" it came good - very pleased. Now for the starboard one.
Had to dismantle another #
#!!*
*#! toilet. This time it was a paper kitchen towel.
..last time, one of our beloved guests decided to flush a wet wipe.
You need a sign on the toilet lid.
"Apart from the paper provided, do not put anything in the toilet that you have not eaten or drunk first. Failure to comply with this will result in the boat exploding."
Antifoul, New electric winch the old winch was a manual one wire the winch to the new start isolator and battery etc., polish the hull and paint internal areas below the floor boards and the gunwale rubbing strip oiled, new kitchen sink tap and a general clean-up after being at Shipyard for a week.
Select to expand quotewhiteout said..
Antifoul, New electric winch the old winch was a manual one wire the winch to the new start isolator and battery etc., polish the hull and paint internal areas below the floor boards and the gunwale rubbing strip oiled, new kitchen sink tap and a general clean-up after being at Shipyard for a week.
Looks fantastic Whitout!
Have just put mine back in the water after changing anodes, 3 coats of antifoul with a fourth on waterline rudder skew, leading and trailing edges of everything and the rear few feet of hull above the rudder. Had to replace the cutlass bearing too. First time I have done that. Was a composite one glued in so had to get oxy onto it to release the glue. My boat is aluminium. Was out for 4 days.
Select to expand quotecisco said..
You need a sign on the toilet lid.
"Apart from the paper provided, do not put anything in the toilet that you have not eaten or drunk first. Failure to comply with this will result in the boat exploding."
You ever tried prying an olive seed out of a Mercerator? You're sign might be close, but still not fool proof. 
It's a steel hull I painted it with epoxy Wattyl paint and rolled and tipped the paint on similar to my first boat which was fibreglass.
Select to expand quoteToph said..
You ever tried prying an olive seed out of a Mercerator? You're sign might be close, but still not fool proof.
Whoever let the olive seed come out his rear end has not been chewing his/her food properly.
Old Mate who had "Pipes of Pan", a Hitchiker 40 with the party bridge deck who hung around Maggie, Airlie and other parts north and south years ago used to take on the odd few backpackers for crew.
I was checking out his party deck and sliding a couple of coldies down with him one day and I had to ask him if he had more than one dunny.
I have now he said. I got sick of them clogging the one below so I installed a domestic house dunny with cistern and plumbed it out a 100 mm hole through the in side of the port hull a bit above the waterline.
That would have fixed it I said.
No he said. Said he had this big vegetarian German backpacker girl on board who laid a dirty great cow pat in there and he had to bust it up with a broom stick to get it to flush out.
I think he gave the backpackers away not long after that.
New boom bag hand made by my good friends! And more grinding and glassing and moved saloon table forward and will be doing upolstery in cream macro suede all hand made by meeee! Apart from the sewing bits!
Boom bag looks good Southace, what did you use for the stiffener where the lazy jacks attach, electrical conduit?
cheers
Select to expand quoteBlueMoon said..
Boom bag looks good Southace, what did you use for the stiffener where the lazy jacks attach, electrical conduit?
cheers
That's correct mate, I'll show you tomorrow!
Select to expand quoteBlueMoon said..
Boom bag looks good Southace, what did you use for the stiffener where the lazy jacks attach, electrical conduit?
cheersSelect to expand quoteBlueMoon said..
Boom bag looks good Southace, what did you use for the stiffener where the lazy jacks attach, electrical conduit?
cheers
We reused the rods from the old bag , it appears to be light polished stainless tubing or possibly crome plated tube. I would avoid electrical conduit as it may change shape once heated by the elements.
Select to expand quoteBlueMoon said..
Boom bag looks good Southace, what did you use for the stiffener where the lazy jacks attach, electrical conduit?
cheers
My boom bag has the same stuff as used for sail battens. That's how Hood made it.
Select to expand quoteMichaelR said..BlueMoon said..
Boom bag looks good Southace, what did you use for the stiffener where the lazy jacks attach, electrical conduit?
cheers
My boom bag has the same stuff as used for sail battens. That's how Hood made it.
That would be the best material but the most expensive MichaelR.
After building doors for my companionway and giving them the carbon wrap look I have been researching spraying the the product in a clear coat. After some googling it seems possible and will do some tests in the next few days. Next will be the switch board panel if all goes well! Will keep you posted how it works out.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
New boom bag hand made by my good friends! And more grinding and glassing and moved saloon table forward and will be doing upolstery in cream macro suede all hand made by meeee! Apart from the sewing bits!
I see you still have those squeaky crappy old Fico Ronstan Offshore 100 blocks in your mainsheet system and they are still rigged incorrectly.
You said you were going to replace then with some sexy new ones some time ago. What happened there??
One would be excused for thinking they are a higher priority than stick on carbon fibre sexifying of cabin doors.
The Fico Ronstan Offshore 100 blocks that I have are still for sale. They consist of an unused double block, an unused double block with becket, two lightly used single blocks and a lightly used single block with swivel.
I will be replacing the metal sheaves with nylon and building the main sheet system including a a solid boom vang! Winter is here and my carbon doors are a treat!
Have you finaly got your new skin fittings in Cisico it's been many blue moons and beers since your last update?
