Having sailed with Shaggy on Fusion I hereby attest that he is not a reckless sailor and keeps the safety of his fellow sailors in mind at all times.
Re the wheel vs tiller on a Pogo 12.5, I think it hard to fault the choice of wheel steering. You can be seated steering Fusion sitting outboard of the wheel but I did not find it a naturally comfortable position and the tendency is to stand behind the wheel. That is great for racing but not so good for longer passages, but then the auto pilot is going to stand in for you. Maybe a stool for the helmsman that plugs into one of those holes at the back of the cockpit floor would work.
Tiller steering on a Pogo 12.5 I believe will have it's challenges too. The cockpit is so incredibly wide that I think it would be impossible to steer without a battle stick tiller extension unless you are sitting on the cockpit floor and then you wont be able to see anything.
I am sure the problem Shaggy described is a management thing he has not quite nutted out yet.
Re towing the dinghy. For short runs, towing it is the preferred choice but with out motor or anything in it. Towing a dinghy when sailing can be a management issue as well. Might I suggest that in fresher conditions the painter be shortened up bringing it closer to the yacht and adjusting it to the following wave putting it just behind it, just on it or just in front of it, whichever works best for that yacht and dinghy combo.
Another idea is to have two painter lines, one attached each side of the transom, allowing the ride point of the dinghy to be adjusted between windward and leeward. I think the dinghy will be more stable riding more to leeward.
It has been over a year since I sailed on Fusion so I am relying on memory which may not be the best considering my proclivity to beer consumption. 
To Me when fusion was not racing Id make a removable over head much like the Hunter and design it strong enough so you could fit slide out dinghy davits . and have it dis mountable when racing .
That way when you dont have your race crew it takes up the mistakes
or add two of those climbing figure 8's that Ramona users on his boom brake smaller units so it slows the process in a jibe
maybe on the end of the boom in a triangle to either side of the hull slowing the booms movement in a controlled fashion
I appreciate all the arguments for towing a dinghy because of whatever reason. Many do it even while passage making.
I am handling this question as a safety and management issue by a forward thinking single hander.
Nobody in the universe could argue with the fact - if it is not there, it is not going to cause a problem - presently or in the future.
Same argument applies to the wearing a harness and clipping on.
Or every time when l stop the engine, l check it over ready to be restarted.
If l use a tool, l always put it back to it's place when l am done with it.
Keys always in the same pocket or place.
So is wallet phone, money.
Am l anally retentive? 
Well, this is my organised madness.
Hey Shaggy I've been thinking about your mainsheet problem for a while and can't come up with any static solution besides a big ugly guard around the wheels to deflect the mainsheet.
I guess the best way to solve the problem is to have a process that you stick to for every gybe that involves assigning a person to ensure the mainsheet is clear on each and every gybe no matter what the wind strength and decide to granny when your not confident in the mainsheet hand
Select to expand quoteJolene said..
Hey Shaggy, I not quite understanding why you cant safely gybe the boat by collecting up main sheet as you bring the stern through the wind, then ease out sheet to complete the gybe.
I know you said something about powering up the sail if you sheet it in. but in my case, sheeting in and bringing the leech into the wind de-powers the main. My boat is slow though with small sails I have not sailed on a pogo so could you elaborate a little more for me.
Cheers
Hi Joelene,
Yep, I know what you mean. I think the difference is the apparent wind is a lot further forward on the 12.50. With the main eased out, I'm depowered and almost luffing, less lift is being generated . As I sheet in, the air-flow over the back of the the main reattaches itself and we gain more lift, ie: speed up. If I exaggerate and sheet all the way in to near centreline, I can depower, but I'm stalling the sail, the angle of attack is now too great and gusts will heel the boat more.
This also lends itself of course to the issue when the main is sheeted in, a broach becomes more likely and more extreme. You know when you get the hint of a broach coming on you normally ease vang and mainsheet, this "point of no return" increases the more we sheet in. Having the main on as you enter a broach can make it get interesting real quick for the guy next to you! When the main is eased, it won't try to broach as easy as soon or as hard. Select to expand quoteandy59 said..
Hey Shaggy I've been thinking about your mainsheet problem for a while and can't come up with any static solution besides a big ugly guard around the wheels to deflect the mainsheet.
I guess the best way to solve the problem is to have a process that you stick to for every gybe that involves assigning a person to ensure the mainsheet is clear on each and every gybe no matter what the wind strength and decide to granny when your not confident in the mainsheet hand
Hi Andy,
This pretty much sums it up, we work around it for now. We have the traveller guy keep an eye on it as we go through. Light to medium airs we just sheet in. I agree regards the guard, maybe a small say 3mm dyneema lashed to the side of the cockpit from the pedestal or summink.
Boty, I'm down the boat this morning to pull the wheel off, we're still aiming for sthc. I'll spend the next few nights on it, see if we can give it some structural integrity and then worry about the cosmetics if we have time.
Select to expand quoteshaggybaxter said..Jolene said..
Hey Shaggy, I not quite understanding why you cant safely gybe the boat by collecting up main sheet as you bring the stern through the wind, then ease out sheet to complete the gybe.
I know you said something about powering up the sail if you sheet it in. but in my case, sheeting in and bringing the leech into the wind de-powers the main. My boat is slow though with small sails I have not sailed on a pogo so could you elaborate a little more for me.
Cheers
Hi Joelene,
Yep, I know what you mean. I think the difference is the apparent wind is a lot further forward on the 12.50. With the main eased out, I'm depowered and almost luffing, less lift is being generated . As I sheet in, the air-flow over the back of the the main reattaches itself and we gain more lift, ie: speed up. If I exaggerate and sheet all the way in to near centreline, I can depower, but I'm stalling the sail, the angle of attack is now too great and gusts will heel the boat more.
This also lends itself of course to the issue when the main is sheeted in, a broach becomes more likely and more extreme. You know when you get the hint of a broach coming on you normally ease vang and mainsheet, this "point of no return" increases the more we sheet in. Having the main on as you enter a broach can make it get interesting real quick for the guy next to you! When the main is eased, it won't try to broach as easy as soon or as hard. andy59 said..
Hey Shaggy I've been thinking about your mainsheet problem for a while and can't come up with any static solution besides a big ugly guard around the wheels to deflect the mainsheet.
I guess the best way to solve the problem is to have a process that you stick to for every gybe that involves assigning a person to ensure the mainsheet is clear on each and every gybe no matter what the wind strength and decide to granny when your not confident in the mainsheet hand
Hi Andy,
This pretty much sums it up, we work around it for now. We have the traveller guy keep an eye on it as we go through. Light to medium airs we just sheet in. I agree regards the guard, maybe a small say 3mm dyneema lashed to the side of the cockpit from the pedestal or summink.
Boty, I'm down the boat this morning to pull the wheel off, we're still aiming for sthc. I'll spend the next few nights on it, see if we can give it some structural integrity and then worry about the cosmetics if we have time.
Now you'd think the other Pogo owners with twin steering would have same issues and giving feedback to manufacture , maybe a word with
the manufacturer, has some ideas or suggestions from other owners.
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
I appreciate all the arguments for towing a dinghy because of whatever reason. Many do it even while passage making.
I am handling this question as a safety and management issue by a forward thinking single hander.
Nobody in the universe could argue with the fact - if it is not there, it is not going to cause a problem - presently or in the future.
Same argument applies to the wearing a harness and clipping on.
Or every time when l stop the engine, l check it over ready to be restarted.
If l use a tool, l always put it back to it's place when l am done with it.
Keys always in the same pocket or place.
So is wallet phone, money.
Am l anally retentive?
Well, this is my organised madness.
SG,
That sounds like the sort of sailor I like sailing with!
The anal retentiveness...aahh..that's an interesting question!
You know how some guys are just naturally gifted and can seemingly breeze through a cyclone without breaking a sweat? I'm not 
, so I fall back on processes, or yep being anal retentive. It sucks as it's not natural for me, so I have to continually work at putting tools away for example.
But I see real tangible benefits in my sailing experience. I have a theory here, it seems to mitigate escalation of issues.
The knife being in the right place, jacklines are anchored properly, spares are locate-able, tools are fit for purpose and locate-able. They all make the difference in managing problems before they become full scale disasters.
I believe being anal retentive, or put another way being methodical and detailed, is more prevalent amongst sailors that short or single hand a lot, is this because it has more significant impact?
I'd be interested to see what Andy has to say worked for him in his epic ventures of late! Or MB, South or Jode or any of the myriad of SB short handers I'm sure there are.
It's an interesting topic.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Bolted my windvane back on. Replaced the Delrin bevel gears with brass and replaced the delrin oar pivot bearings with black nylon. Also the housing for the SS bearing for the small bevel gear is now in black nylon. Sun had effected the Delrin and a few teeth had chipped off the gears. Machined new pulleys as well. The nylon I bought from Cammthane in Albion Park and it's a pleasure to work with on the lathe.
www.cammthane.com.au/
there plenty of these in alloy any size or ratio you want
or would a self steering wind vane be better like a planes
rudder or flaps or ailerons instead of a paddle when its not in used add it to the rudder shape in a neutral position
or it used air to make two different shapes inflated one way it gives this then it could have another path making the opposite shape made of a flexible material
so it could be controlled by an air cylinder and a wind vane paddle that makes the shape of the aileron fitted to the rudder blade less moving parts
so even a bicycle pump could make that shape under water stretching a rubberised material
it works above water maybe we will have a racing sail that flexes its shape depending on wind direction and tack your on
I'm not trying to be a smart arse its my way of make my brain reconnect after a mine accident back in 1976 in Nobles Knob Gold mine back then
So I puzzle other ways of doing stuff like other do cross words
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
or would a self steering wind vane be better like a planes
rudder or flaps or ailerons instead of a paddle when its not in used add it to the rudder shape in a neutral position
or it used air to make two different shapes inflated one way it gives this then it could have another path making the opposite shape made of a flexible material
The best shape for the vane I have found to be a wedge, leading edge about 2mm and the back edge about 15mm with a spoiler. The spoiler makes it a bit less sensitive.
The oar is usually a Naca section though this is more for fashion and strength. In reality a flat aluminium blade with the leading edge rounded off would be more effective. A Naca foil with a thick cord would have to rotate more before it generates power. Hold a butter knife under a running tap and it becomes obvious.
Re stepped the masts after removing all fittings, bare wooding and re finishing there was no nasty surprises and I'm so happy that they're pointing at the sky again
, so I fall back on processes, or yep being anal retentive. It sucks as it's not natural for me, so I have to continually work at putting tools away for example.
After spending boat bucks on 2.5 hypalon RIB some things changed: #1 no more money, #2 fell in love with rigid bottom, #3 had to improve my "from/to boat ramp dink. Now my 2m Mercury has "Rigid" internal floor, to protect "soft" keel against concrete ramp S/S eye pad was installed together with identical pad inside "lifting eye"?. For the fraction of cost of the proper RIB I can stand upright comfortably under way to and from the mother boat.
Hi Shaggy and anyone else who can give me an explanation
With you mainsheet catching on the wheel issue when gybing where you say you can't sheet the main in before gybing because it powers the boat up as the apparent wind moves forward, if your are sailing dead down wind at the time of the gybe and the wind speed is greater than the boat speed is there going to be any apparent wind forward to deal with
Regards Don
This is not my boat but I'm counting it as sea time! Friends and I rescued this 45 footer off a sandbar today after she went sailing unattended. Mooring parted in the strong Westerlies. Mooring was serviced only a couple of weeks ago. Rescue association refused to help, they don't do salvage work. Mates towed her back up to a safe spot and I anchored her with a full chain rode and a CQR. Naturally she dragged a bit but the contractor has been out and repaired the mooring and she should be back there safe now. Expensive yacht with a cheap anchor! The marine rescue association vessel did come out and watch though!
This thread is getting more weird by the minute.
First HG's posts, now Twohulls. (are you bloody serious standing up in a two meter inflatable? Strewth!)
Sometimes it just doesn't make any sense.
Something must be in the water...
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
This thread is getting more weird by the minute.
First HG's posts, now Twohulls. (are you bloody serious standing up in a two meter inflatable? Strewth!)
Sometimes it just doesn't make any sense.
Something must be in the water...
Never fear southace is here!
I have been away from my yacht for 4 months on a working contract!
The list of my "what did you do to your sailing boat today" is longer than both my arms!
Work will commence next week...just where do I start! Hmmmm
Wish me luck. I spent a happy couple of days stripping down the TMC toilet to fix a leak that was dribbling out rusty water. I though that it was a seal, had to buy the whole repair kit for $60. I found that the stainless steel wear plate was the culprit, it was deeply pitted, so I only needed the rubber gasket from the kit, bugger. BLA had wear plates for $99. My Scottish ancestry kicked in and out came the ubiquitous Kneadit. Lots of clean up and epoxy bog later and voila! it's all back together and so far, no leaks. Next time round, old toilet goes overboard and new one comes on board.
Select to expand quotePhoenixStar said..
Wish me luck. I spent a happy couple of days stripping down the TMC toilet to fix a leak that was dribbling out rusty water. I though that it was a seal, had to buy the whole repair kit for $60. I found that the stainless steel wear plate was the culprit, it was deeply pitted, so I only needed the rubber gasket from the kit, bugger. BLA had wear plates for $99. My Scottish ancestry kicked in and out came the ubiquitous Kneadit. Lots of clean up and epoxy bog later and voila! it's all back together and so far, no leaks. Next time round, old toilet goes overboard and new one comes on board.
Those TMC toilets are really not the best design ... The little bolts to get into those impellers are always a mission!
Very simular hull to my Adams 42 .....this duck board will be one of my projects to add to the transom and possibly them flip up solar panels could also be another project.
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
This thread is getting more weird by the minute.
First HG's posts, now Twohulls. (are you bloody serious standing up in a two meter inflatable? Strewth!)
Sometimes it just doesn't make any sense.
Something must be in the water...
Ouch, I'm sorry, I did not know that standing on GRP floor in 2m inflatable is prohibited. Thanks for pointing it out, I'll never do it again. Please tell me what is length of inflatable dinghy to legally stand in it. Thanks in advance for shearing you wisdom with me. I do believe every other person did known about this prohibition but me, ignorant old full. Thanks once more.
Purchased very large bin from Bunnings and took all sails home and soaked them in aldi nappysan overnght
Today hung them up on side fences ( just as well they are very high ) in the sun and washed down with the hose. Not one had been properly packed and I'll swear they had never been rinsed in fresh water before.
Whats the world coming to?' Cushion covers next.
Not quite today, but on Wednesday I had a lovely evening sail home from Tangalooma with my new FarEast fully battened main.
I have to refine my reefing system and buy a new boom cover (I'll go back to FarEast for this), but the sail itself is brilliant.
It's like Christmas hosting a new sail for the first time:
