Strapless super light 70L 5'1 board weighing around 4 kg or less pad included. Primarily for wave riding / carving and freerace in flat water. Rigid enough for pumping. I am 70kg.
Strapless: there wouldn't be unnecessary weight from strap inserts, and it wouldn't need to be built for jumping. Also there's no need for an overly long foil track since foot placement during the start doesn't have to be so precise. Minimal deck pad.
Such a board is not available in anyone's selection? I presume there are riders like me who would benefit from it?
I'm a bit frustrated that top of the line boards from major brands can cost $2,000 and still be very heavy and bulky.
A lightweight board is important because it allows for using a smaller stabilizer and enables more precise riding (wave and speed). Pumping also becomes easier.
However, I don't want a sinker board - prone boards are too tricky and exhausting to use with small 500-600cm2 foils.
With a lightweight 70L board, I could handle all conditions and still make it back to shore reasonably well when the wind drops.
I bet Sunova can do it for ya. I just got a custom Pilot made. 5'9"x20"x65l. I reached out to them and said I wanted it light with nothing more than a 4.5kg limit. Purely for surf winging.
I unboxed it yesterday and threw it on the scale, just under 4 kilos without pad. If you chopped it down to 5'1" I'd expect you'd be under 4kg including pad.
I think the biggest in the pilot range is 68l. Maybe shoot them a message and ask?
get a custom. personally I build my own, but for reference for your 4kg target, I have one board this weight which is 5'11"/93L, and even has footstrap inserts and HD sandwich, and can hold up to my size (198cm/130kg).
4kg is easily achievable for most custom builders. And it might even be cheaper. Production boards can't compare.
Custom is always an option, yes. It would just be nice to have a pre-designed and tested model that's known to work well.
I build boards all the time
4 is too light if you want it to last. For reference - My 16" tracks put into a block properly is 1kg before you start. so yeah 4 is doable but you won't be able to drop a knee on it and good luck if it sees a rock in the car park.
I also think in something with such little swing weight, I doubt people can feel 500g or so in the business area of tracks to front foot. So a bit of rail reinforcement up front isn't going to kill your waveriding. 4.5 seems to be a pretty sweet spot for all those trade-offs
My foildrive ready ML (with battery compartment so far bit extra stuff in there, in vicinity of 300g extra bits ) is 5.5kg
Custom is always an option, yes. It would just be nice to have a pre-designed and tested model that's known to work well.
Perfect
Most of my boards are customer wants a copy but stronger or volume tweak etc.
So find what u like and commission a copy
BTW I think you would be surprised by the lack of testing in some board lines. Literally CAD to water and most test one or two sizes but make five or six sizes .. With scaling errors and all sorts.
Omen just released 3 new boards. Here is some ad copy that sounds right up your alley.
Being dedicated wave boards, the Emissaries have no strap inserts to maximally reduce weight.
omenfoils.com/collections/boards/products/emissary-hp
I build boards all the time
4 is too light if you want it to last. For reference - My 16" tracks put into a block properly is 1kg before you start. so yeah 4 is doable but you won't be able to drop a knee on it and good luck if it sees a rock in the car park.
I also think in something with such little swing weight, I doubt people can feel 500g or so in the business area of tracks to front foot. So a bit of rail reinforcement up front isn't going to kill your waveriding. 4.5 seems to be a pretty sweet spot for all those trade-offs
My foildrive ready ML (with battery compartment so far bit extra stuff in there, in vicinity of 300g extra bits ) is 5.5kg
Agreed re feeling the weight difference. I made 2 similarly sized 5 foot boards around 50l : one super light at 3.5 kg and one heavy (for a custom) at 5kg. A difference of 1.5kg and in retrospect, I wish I build the lighter one (a narrower board) in the heavier construction. The added materials made it incredibly stiff and a thrill to ride.
Yup
and look at the factory boards with sandthru and / or cracks from tiny impact - especially on carbon boards with no glass over. Delicate
Keeps me in business though ![]()
I build boards all the time
4 is too light if you want it to last. For reference - My 16" tracks put into a block properly is 1kg before you start. so yeah 4 is doable but you won't be able to drop a knee on it and good luck if it sees a rock in the car park.
I also think in something with such little swing weight, I doubt people can feel 500g or so in the business area of tracks to front foot. So a bit of rail reinforcement up front isn't going to kill your waveriding. 4.5 seems to be a pretty sweet spot for all those trade-offs
My foildrive ready ML (with battery compartment so far bit extra stuff in there, in vicinity of 300g extra bits ) is 5.5kg
That might very well be true, that 4.5 kg is enough. My current Takoon Glide is significantly heavy, but also extremely durable and stiff. The knee didn't go through the board. The knee broke, but the board didn't.
Thank you for the comments and recommendations. There was a lot of eye-opening information here. Turttle boards seemed particularly interesting in my case.
Kalevi, I have a number of boards. A most are heavier (6+kg for 110+ L), but all are durable. I also have a very light board (<5kg for 110L). It's much lighter because there's a single skin and this makes the board fragile. I've bumped it and the outer layer was compromised. I tried a repair and it was impossible for me. Got a mate who has some repair skills to have a go and he struggled, but it worked after lots of effort.
With all these things there are pro's and cons. I reckon the lighter board will not have the same life expectancy as my heavier boards.
Give me extra weight and durability.
I'll disagree with some people here. In most cases, Heavier does not equal stronger. (though, yeah sure, it is possible that's the case) Heavier usually means that they are building for 'production' instead of for performance. So... lot's of build decisions done to reduce production time & steps, and to increase repeatability and cost margins.
That means added weight for things like fairing putty, or not taking the care to properly sand or smooth between steps, or maybe not vacuum bagging so you have extra resin (which is not only heavier but also weaker). You could actually have a weaker board.
It's not a rule that a heavier board is built better, more durable and will last longer. I'd almost guess there's an opposite correlation. .
If it's for carving and wave riding then look at the shape first and then at the weight. A board with a good shape - done with having wave riding in mind - could feel more responsive and more fun to ride than a lighter board that's made for some other purpose.
I have a 60l custom KT with no strap inserts. It weighs 4kg. I'm 80 kg and very rarely do I feel that I would have benefited from more volume
I'll disagree with some people here. In most cases, Heavier does not equal stronger. (though, yeah sure, it is possible that's the case) Heavier usually means that they are building for 'production' instead of for performance. So... lot's of build decisions done to reduce production time & steps, and to increase repeatability and cost margins.
That means added weight for things like fairing putty, or not taking the care to properly sand or smooth between steps, or maybe not vacuum bagging so you have extra resin (which is not only heavier but also weaker). You could actually have a weaker board.
It's not a rule that a heavier board is built better, more durable and will last longer. I'd almost guess there's an opposite correlation.
if you are talking factory boards, yes sometimes heavier is all filling etc
but that's not what this thread is about.
in my boards there is no crap so yeah heavier is stronger.
@Kalevi
Maybe you'll find what you're looking for here:
www.airinside.ch
-> 70 liter board = 3,5 kg.
They are just starting out, but have gained some experience with Formula windsurf boards - there is also a video on YouTube where someone hits the board with a windsurf fin...
I haven't found any testimonials anywhere. But the weight is sensational !
Funny but I'm not a fan of super low weight boards, I do like to have a certain weight in boards to keep momentum. I do not whip the nose a lot however, maybe because of my style of riding or my lack of style in riding waves lol.
Funny but I'm not a fan of super low weight boards, I do like to have a certain weight in boards to keep momentum. I do not whip the nose a lot however, maybe because of my style of riding or my lack of style in riding waves lol.
I think you're right about this. I don't know what the exact weight is, but I like feeling like there's a board below me. I know some love the ultra short ultra light feel but I'm somewhere in the middle. I want to feel the boards feedback in my riding and in turns.
@Kalevi
Maybe you'll find what you're looking for here:
www.airinside.ch
-> 70 liter board = 3,5 kg.
They are just starting out, but have gained some experience with Formula windsurf boards - there is also a video on YouTube where someone hits the board with a windsurf fin...
I haven't found any testimonials anywhere. But the weight is sensational !
This is interesting! Thank you!
I am curious if Flikka are using the name Airinside under licence from Patrik who made hollow WS boards called Airinside too.
or if its a collab?
Either way- both Flikka and Patrik really know what they're doing so it would be a ripper construction no doubt.
Thanks TuberiderG for the tip for Airinside board. I just got mine, and it`s awesome. Ordered w/o foot-straps, so it was even lighted than the weight listed on the website. Mine`s 72Liter, and the weight is 3.34 kg. First test-drive posted here:
www.tiktok.com/@letsgokitesurfing/video/7483437461289323784
Thanks TuberiderG for the tip for Airinside board. I just got mine, and it`s awesome. Ordered w/o foot-straps, so it was even lighted than the weight listed on the website. Mine`s 72Liter, and the weight is 3.34 kg. First test-drive posted here:
www.tiktok.com/@letsgokitesurfing/video/7483437461289323784
Great! So you've ridden an Armstrong board before, right? How does the difference of a kilo or two feel to you? Does the Superfly still feel stiff when you're pumping with your legs?
Heavier definitively is stronger, especially for impact resistance.
And impact resistance is very important with EPS, as your first dent will risk putting water into the blank that will never get out. (less risk with vacuum-bagged full PVC sandwich however)
So, in a way, production ultralight boards are kind of "disposable", as they will not be ultralight anymore after the first ding.
And Mark is right: you should look at the actual swing weight more than the "static" weight.
Heavier definitively is stronger, especially for impact resistance.
And impact resistance is very important with EPS, as your first dent will risk putting water into the blank that will never get out. (less risk with vacuum-bagged full PVC sandwich however)
So, in a way, production ultralight boards are kind of "disposable", as they will not be ultralight anymore after the first ding.
And Mark is right: you should look at the actual swing weight more than the "static" weight.
The thing with airinside boards is that if you get a leak you can just drain them out without any problems. I remember patrik made a video showing exactly this on their airinside windsurf boards.
KT SuperK 2, custom, no footstraps, 68L, 3.6kg, new sandwich construction which is significantly stiffer than the "normal" Carbon construction. Same weight but needs noticeably less effort to pump on foil. The picture is of the 85L board. I absolutely love both boards, they ride incredibly well (I'm 190lbs), come up ridiculously early (20 inch wide), and when you're riding it feels as if the board just isn't there. I agree w everything that was said here, the secret to these narrow boards is low weight and stiffness. Every pound or two you feel pumping and most of all in the turns. I've ridden the predecessor for over a year nearly every day and am surprised by the amount of progress (earlier takeoff, turns better, less board to throw around, more stable when standing still).

KT SuperK 2, custom, no footstraps, 68L, 3.6kg, new sandwich construction which is significantly stiffer than the "normal" Carbon construction. Same weight but needs noticeably less effort to pump on foil. The picture is of the 85L board. I absolutely love both boards, they ride incredibly well (I'm 190lbs), come up ridiculously early (20 inch wide), and when you're riding it feels as if the board just isn't there. I agree w everything that was said here, the secret to these narrow boards is low weight and stiffness. Every pound or two you feel pumping and most of all in the turns. I've ridden the predecessor for over a year nearly every day and am surprised by the amount of progress (earlier takeoff, turns better, less board to throw around, more stable when standing still).

Cool, thanks for the input.
Would you happen to know dims and details about the upcoming SuperK V2 stock boards in both constructions?
Heavier definitively is stronger, especially for impact resistance.
And impact resistance is very important with EPS, as your first dent will risk putting water into the blank that will never get out. (less risk with vacuum-bagged full PVC sandwich however)
So, in a way, production ultralight boards are kind of "disposable", as they will not be ultralight anymore after the first ding.
And Mark is right: you should look at the actual swing weight more than the "static" weight.
There is actually a way to get out even big amounts of water (but it's not straightforward for the average person, shapers using advanced composites should be able to do it though ) through vaporisation of the water under vacuum and heat. Basically under vacuum the vaporisation temperature of water gets lower (just as water boils at lower temps at higher altitudes). So put the board in a vacbag/ or seal only around ding (laminate opened enough) (you might need to airtighten the vent and/or also need to replace goretex vents afterwards), then add vac pump and heat (check vaporisation tables, something like -0.9 bar relative and 50deg-60deg Celcius should be enough, stay below 80deg C or the eps will start to melt). The water will come out as vapour and condensate in the pump, so don't let oil based pumps run too long with the water inside, they will need an oil change asap, maybe more depending on water amount and pump size. With a lot of water you might need to do it in intervals, opening the vacuum slightly to let air into the system which is needed for the vaporisation.
Funny but I'm not a fan of super low weight boards, I do like to have a certain weight in boards to keep momentum. I do not whip the nose a lot however, maybe because of my style of riding or my lack of style in riding waves lol.
I think you're right about this. I don't know what the exact weight is, but I like feeling like there's a board below me. I know some love the ultra short ultra light feel but I'm somewhere in the middle. I want to feel the boards feedback in my riding and in turns.
You can always add some weight to the nose to add swingweight, not much needed when in the nose...e.g. those thick and heavy adhesive noise vibration/noise cancelling films (Alubutyl) used in campers
Heavier definitively is stronger, especially for impact resistance.
And impact resistance is very important with EPS, as your first dent will risk putting water into the blank that will never get out. (less risk with vacuum-bagged full PVC sandwich however)
So, in a way, production ultralight boards are kind of "disposable", as they will not be ultralight anymore after the first ding.
And Mark is right: you should look at the actual swing weight more than the "static" weight.
There is actually a way to get out even big amounts of water (but it's not straightforward for the average person, shapers using advanced composites should be able to do it though ) through vaporisation of the water under vacuum and heat. Basically under vacuum the vaporisation temperature of water gets lower (just as water boils at lower temps at higher altitudes). So put the board in a vacbag/ or seal only around ding (laminate opened enough) (you might need to airtighten the vent and/or also need to replace goretex vents afterwards), then add vac pump and heat (check vaporisation tables, something like -0.9 bar relative and 50deg-60deg Celcius should be enough, stay below 80deg C or the eps will start to melt). The water will come out as vapour and condensate in the pump, so don't let oil based pumps run too long with the water inside, they will need an oil change asap, maybe more depending on water amount and pump size. With a lot of water you might need to do it in intervals, opening the vacuum slightly to let air into the system which is needed for the vaporisation.
No. you can't get it all out like that