Recently I switched from the Ozone Pocket Rocket 4.3m first to the BRM Ka'a 4.2m and then to a quiver of Kanaha 4.7m and 3.2m.
First of all I switched from the Ka'a to the Kanaha cause the upwind angles on the Ka'a were really too poor for my tastes.
The Kanaha is definitely much better for upwind as well as gusts managements compared to the Ka'a although not as efficient as the Ozone PR.
But my problems lie elsewhere.
1. I found the BRM, per size, to be way less grunty than the Ozone PR. Waterstart is also far less intuitive than the Ozone.
2. jibing in light wind is v tricky with the BRM. The Ozone PR at least had the "pull the upper c-line" trick which was a day saver. the same does not seem to apply on the Kanaha. any tips on that?
However the shorter lines makes the in-flight experience significantly more enjoyable. Success rate on stow/redeploy is close to 90%.
See you didn't like the 4.2 Ka'a wind angles much on the 4.2 be interested your take on on the 4.2 Ka'a as I'm learning and have same PW kaa 4.2 and not at the point yet to really quantify my upwind progress is the 4.2 Ka'a upwind dreadful gains that bad or tolerable for learning as I'm a advanced old kiter/foiler/winger/supfoiler have the skills but the PW been a bit frustrating on the learning scale but I'm 100 kgs using it in 15-20 kts usually just wondering what upwind gains I will be obtainable with Ka'a once I dial it in,guess I got wrong tool for the job shoulda got the kanaha in retrospect for better upwind gains if could shed a little light on your kaa 4.2 experience be useful
I did get a 4.0 F1 frigate too but for learning was starting on the BRM seems has a little more grunt out of the hole but too early to say
I ride the Ka'a and never feel like anyone on the water is out performing my upwind performance. I feel riders who complain about this just didn't put the time into learning the intricacies of using the Ka'a.
Select to expand quotefoilthegreats said..
I ride the Ka'a and never feel like anyone on the water is out performing my upwind performance. I feel riders who complain about this just didn't put the time into learning the intricacies of using the Ka'a.t well could be
it well could be the case. But my riding conditions are really challenging. We have tons of current and disordered side chop, so an easy upwind is a must. I am sure you unlocked the Ka'a inner workings, in my case I noticed an immediate gain with the Kanaha.Select to expand quotepitbulldoug said..
See you didn't like the 4.2 Ka'a wind angles much on the 4.2 be interested your take on on the 4.2 Ka'a as I'm learning and have same PW kaa 4.2 and not at the point yet to really quantify my upwind progress is the 4.2 Ka'a upwind dreadful gains that bad or tolerable for learning as I'm a advanced old kiter/foiler/winger/supfoiler have the skills but the PW been a bit frustrating on the learning scale but I'm 100 kgs using it in 15-20 kts usually just wondering what upwind gains I will be obtainable with Ka'a once I dial it in,guess I got wrong tool for the job shoulda got the kanaha in retrospect for better upwind gains if could shed a little light on your kaa 4.2 experience be useful
I did get a 4.0 F1 frigate too but for learning was starting on the BRM seems has a little more grunt out of the hole but too early to say
Yeah I found the downwind pull on the Ka'a to be too much. As well as gusts management. I think the Kanaha depowers better. I might be less grungy than the Ka'a though
I have the Ka'a 4.8 and 3.6 - with these PWs I can go as high upwind as I can with my inflatable strut wings - provided I have power closer to the top end of the range
I also have the v1 Malikos in 5.1/4.0/2.9. The bridle mods were done, and I've shifted from the original bar to the EVA carbon bar and moved the A line connecting point a fist distance ahead of the B line connection.
For me, the v1 Maliko is the best PW out there - I think with the subtle mods, Greg got it right the first time. People just needed to 1. Use a harness to increase the range, 2. Spend more time handling the PW so you better understand how it works, 3. Modify the bar to get the A lines further back (closer to the B line connection point)
Another friend just got a Kanaha 5.5 - I've asked to try it - would be interesting to see where the differences are (although it won't be apples to apples)
My v1 Malikos 2.9 and 4.0 are dreamy good in the right wind. With Greg's bridle mod and also adjusting the A and B connection points on the bar, I have plenty of depower without any flutter. I moved the A line connection point back, as recommended, to within a fist of the B. But it fluttered when sheeted out. So I moved the B further back towards the C and all flutter stopped. I do like the new after-market carbon bars for the v1 Maliko better than the original.
I also have a Ka'a 3.6. To me it seems perfectly tuned as is. Good power and depower. No fluttering. I'm happy with my upwind angles. Seems similar to my inflato wings upwind. Ultra short lines. Packs small. Responsive turning.
A wise parawinger once told me: "All problems going upwind using a parawing can be solved by riding more powered." But then he added: "Except for those problems caused by having too much power."
But.but.but the YouTube videos told me that Ozone and FOne are the best?! ??
I too still love my original BRMs. Great that we have so many options but for those looking to get into pw don't over look a used v1 BRM.
I love my maliko with mods. I am trying to love my new Ka'a's and think I do but they are a different beast from the maliko. I also have a flow dwing 3m that is really well rounded. I will break down my quiver and experience:
Maliko 4m with mods
Pros
-water relaunch is second to none
-great light wind performance- easy to keep flying while waiting for gust
-sheets out on A-lines nicely and I can drag it upwind easily when depowered.
-turns and jibes easily with a slight back stall to initiate
-stows easily
-goes upwind great
Cons
-re-deploy is a roll of the dice 50/50
-bigger bar with more crap on it makes for more bridal snag points on re-deploy
-Can't get rid of all the flutter when well powered but still performs well, just bothers me visually
Ka'a 4.2
Pros
-good smooth power all the way from under to overpowered
-nice taught canopy when powered and on A-lines
-turns amazing even off a-lines
-stows super easy
-re-deploy is almost 100% success
-small clean bar is nice
Cons
-due to lower aspect it flies more downwind and so going upwind is harder (but I am getting better)
-Sensitive to back stalling (it wants to fly off A-lines)
-water relaunch is way harder than maliko
-light wind flying(just trying to keep in air in lulls) is crap
-bridals are thinner and sharper feeling on the stow than maliko
Flow D-Wing 3m
Pros
-all around super easy to fly, very user friendly compared to BRMs
-good low end takeoff grunt
-turns super well
-stows easy but material is thicker than brm(but its only a 3m so it still seems easy)
-flys great off A-lines when OP'd
Cons
-low wind flying it falls out of sky due to heavier canopy material
-rougher bridals when sliding hand up for stowing
-takes longer to dry while flying than BRM
If i was reading some of these comments i would think the BRM is easy to learn on and flys and rips up wind like the fone and ozone. 
having owned both Ozone and BRM I would never recommend the BRM Ka'a/Kanaha for a beginner.
They are way more technical to fly than the Ozone.
My advice is to learn with the Ozone, and then once you top your frustration level with their poor stow/deploy due to long lines, then and only then switch to the BRM Kanaha.
The Ozone has more grunt, better depower and magnificent upwind angles. Yet on sizes 3.6m and above, turning and pack/redeploy is definitely a *itch due to their long lines.
The BRM Kanaha/Ka'a have terribile low end, but they are the closest to perfection when used in their mid to upper range. I had the most memorable sessions of my life with the Kanaha. And despite its terrible low end, it's the one I would buy again and again.
Ka'a vs Kanaha? Not even a question. Ka'a upwind angles are terrible. Kanahas' lines are only 9-10cm longer per equivalent size and the upwind angle and depower is so much better. I feel BRM could have easily avoid introducing the Ka'a in the the line up as the Kanaha does everything the Ka'a does but better.
I have literally been doing this same comparison between my Maliko 5.1 and Ka'a 4.8
And I'll second the results. I have way more fun with the Ka'a if I know I'll be doing my local DW run - as I know I won't have to fight to stay upwind. If I need to hold my line (stay in the same area), I've been struggling a little lately. Lined up to take a wave, the Ka'a is the easiest retract of any wing I've tried.
With the Maliko - as long as I have sufficient wind, I can easily get upwind. The slightly longer lines makes retracting more difficult (I have to give up upwind ground to bear off and retract) - this is the only complaint I have with the Maliko.
Long live the Maliko!!!
It always puzzles me when people are critical of the line lengths for stowing. Sure its easier if they are super short but these are the same line lengths that helped them get all this power and sailing up wind ease with comfort. Now for the next 10 seconds tops you will need to deal with them to put them away nicely.
I collapse even my small wings in two goes (not a single span) due to poor shoulder movement at the extremities of reach. No big deal and costs me an extra 2 seconds and never tangles when you have a technique sorted. So the bigger wings are no harder for me with the same technique. You must use all A lines for success. Then i use Brian's method of pulling the centre lines tight to my hand another 2 seconds.
I see this statement everywhere that longer lines would help with power generation, but I don't understand why it would. With a kite it's obvious because longer lines allows it to move faster through a bigger wind window, but a parawing you hold in the same position, perhaps with some pumping. Unless the line length affects how the canopy profile can be designed, why would longer lines give more power?
Select to expand quoteAnyBoard said..
It always puzzles me when people are critical of the line lengths for stowing. Sure its easier if they are super short but these are the same line lengths that helped them get all this power and sailing up wind ease with comfort. Now for the next 10 seconds tops you will need to deal with them to put them away nicely.
I collapse even my small wings in two goes (not a single span) due to poor shoulder movement at the extremities of reach. No big deal and costs me an extra 2 seconds and never tangles when you have a technique sorted. So the bigger wings are no harder for me with the same technique. You must use all A lines for success. Then i use Brian's method of pulling the centre lines tight to my hand another 2 seconds.
There are many ways to go once you have the lines snug but from here the wing always redeploys. I think all the early advice to grab the centre A lines was crazy as it just creates an opportunity for the tips to fly through the lines.
I also think the marketing of just collapse and stuff straight away is just a pipe dream as everybody with a brand with battens in the leading edge should take more care than this if your paying for your wings.
More than stowing, I meant retract line to ride waves and redeploy shortly after.
Line length is the #1 factor in governing success in the above.
If you tried Ozone and BRM Kanaha you would appreciate the stark difference between the two. Particularly in there 3.6 and 4.3m size.
The success on the Ozone is a lottery ticket whereas with the BRM is a constant.
I'm surprised no one here has mentioned shortening the Ozone lines, such a simple mod, lots of info online, I did the mod and it turns the pocket rocket into such a great parawing, easy stow/redeploy, no tangles, flys perfectly!! Guarantee V2 has shorter lines!!??
Select to expand quotebroVan said..
I love my maliko with mods. I am trying to love my new Ka'a's and think I do but they are a different beast from the maliko. I also have a flow dwing 3m that is really well rounded. I will break down my quiver and experience:
Maliko 4m with mods
Pros
-water relaunch is second to none
-great light wind performance- easy to keep flying while waiting for gust
-sheets out on A-lines nicely and I can drag it upwind easily when depowered.
-turns and jibes easily with a slight back stall to initiate
-stows easily
-goes upwind great
Cons
-re-deploy is a roll of the dice 50/50
-bigger bar with more crap on it makes for more bridal snag points on re-deploy
-Can't get rid of all the flutter when well powered but still performs well, just bothers me visually
Ka'a 4.2
Pros
-good smooth power all the way from under to overpowered
-nice taught canopy when powered and on A-lines
-turns amazing even off a-lines
-stows super easy
-re-deploy is almost 100% success
-small clean bar is nice
Cons
-due to lower aspect it flies more downwind and so going upwind is harder (but I am getting better)
-Sensitive to back stalling (it wants to fly off A-lines)
-water relaunch is way harder than maliko
-light wind flying(just trying to keep in air in lulls) is crap
-bridals are thinner and sharper feeling on the stow than maliko
Flow D-Wing 3m
Pros
-all around super easy to fly, very user friendly compared to BRMs
-good low end takeoff grunt
-turns super well
-stows easy but material is thicker than brm(but its only a 3m so it still seems easy)
-flys great off A-lines when OP'd
Cons
-low wind flying it falls out of sky due to heavier canopy material
-rougher bridals when sliding hand up for stowing
-takes longer to dry while flying than BRM
Out of curiosity regarding upwind angles on the Kaa 4.2 are you hooking in with harness and still getting these undesirable upwind gains?Kinda seems like the general consensus on the Kaa here is upwindability is piss poor but if you hook in any improvements
Select to expand quoteSlowlyButSurely said..AnyBoard said..
It always puzzles me when people are critical of the line lengths for stowing. Sure its easier if they are super short but these are the same line lengths that helped them get all this power and sailing up wind ease with comfort. Now for the next 10 seconds tops you will need to deal with them to put them away nicely.
I collapse even my small wings in two goes (not a single span) due to poor shoulder movement at the extremities of reach. No big deal and costs me an extra 2 seconds and never tangles when you have a technique sorted. So the bigger wings are no harder for me with the same technique. You must use all A lines for success. Then i use Brian's method of pulling the centre lines tight to my hand another 2 seconds.
There are many ways to go once you have the lines snug but from here the wing always redeploys. I think all the early advice to grab the centre A lines was crazy as it just creates an opportunity for the tips to fly through the lines.
I also think the marketing of just collapse and stuff straight away is just a pipe dream as everybody with a brand with battens in the leading edge should take more care than this if your paying for your wings.
More than stowing, I meant retract line to ride waves and redeploy shortly after.
Line length is the #1 factor in governing success in the above.
If you tried Ozone and BRM Kanaha you would appreciate the stark difference between the two. Particularly in there 3.6 and 4.3m size.
The success on the Ozone is a lottery ticket whereas with the BRM is a constant.
I retract and redeploy all the time. I don't have redeployment issues. Line length can certainly bring you undone if your line retraction method lets them flap around so of course shorter lines get less tangles when they are flapping around. Mine use to even get under my toes when i was letting them flap. If your retracting them then you should be getting close to 100%. success.
I agree that if you are riding a short wave like less than 400 metres then there is little point to having long lines but in that case i think i would just wing it.
Select to expand quotepumpnjump said..
I'm surprised no one here has mentioned shortening the Ozone lines, such a simple mod, lots of info online, I did the mod and it turns the pocket rocket into such a great parawing, easy stow/redeploy, no tangles, flys perfectly!! Guarantee V2 has shorter lines!!??
Would you have done the mod if you are travelling long distances up wind? It makes sense for short waves of course. I can't imagine it being better for sailing with shorter lines as you must loose range and particularly on the very bottom and very top. We use to extend and lengthen kite lines for a reason.
What method did you use to shorten them?
I think v2 will have one short and one long targeted at wave versus upwind downwind.
It would be interesting to see the market split on use cases. In my region i haven't spoke to anyone interested in parawing for waves. Surprising i know.
Select to expand quoteAnyBoard said..
It always puzzles me when people are critical of the line lengths for stowing. Sure its easier if they are super short but these are the same line lengths that helped them get all this power and sailing up wind ease with comfort. Now for the next 10 seconds tops you will need to deal with them to put them away nicely.
I collapse even my small wings in two goes (not a single span) due to poor shoulder movement at the extremities of reach. No big deal and costs me an extra 2 seconds and never tangles when you have a technique sorted. So the bigger wings are no harder for me with the same technique. You must use all A lines for success. Then i use Brian's method of pulling the centre lines tight to my hand another 2 seconds.
There are many ways to go once you have the lines snug but from here the wing always redeploys. I think all the early advice to grab the centre A lines was crazy as it just creates an opportunity for the tips to fly through the lines.
I also think the marketing of just collapse and stuff straight away is just a pipe dream as everybody with a brand with battens in the leading edge should take more care than this if your paying for your wings.
Would like to hear more about your two goes technique. How do you prevent spinning, specially in stronger winds?
Select to expand quotepumpnjump said..
I'm surprised no one here has mentioned shortening the Ozone lines, such a simple mod, lots of info online, I did the mod and it turns the pocket rocket into such a great parawing, easy stow/redeploy, no tangles, flys perfectly!! Guarantee V2 has shorter lines!!??
Im thinking of shortening the lines on my 4.3 this weekend. Did you splice, or just do the bar wrap method? 9" shorter? Ive seen a few summaries on Facebook, but if you have any tips, I'd appreciate them before I take this on.
Select to expand quotepitbulldoug said..broVan said..
I love my maliko with mods. I am trying to love my new Ka'a's and think I do but they are a different beast from the maliko. I also have a flow dwing 3m that is really well rounded. I will break down my quiver and experience:
Maliko 4m with mods
Pros
-water relaunch is second to none
-great light wind performance- easy to keep flying while waiting for gust
-sheets out on A-lines nicely and I can drag it upwind easily when depowered.
-turns and jibes easily with a slight back stall to initiate
-stows easily
-goes upwind great
Cons
-re-deploy is a roll of the dice 50/50
-bigger bar with more crap on it makes for more bridal snag points on re-deploy
-Can't get rid of all the flutter when well powered but still performs well, just bothers me visually
Ka'a 4.2
Pros
-good smooth power all the way from under to overpowered
-nice taught canopy when powered and on A-lines
-turns amazing even off a-lines
-stows super easy
-re-deploy is almost 100% success
-small clean bar is nice
Cons
-due to lower aspect it flies more downwind and so going upwind is harder (but I am getting better)
-Sensitive to back stalling (it wants to fly off A-lines)
-water relaunch is way harder than maliko
-light wind flying(just trying to keep in air in lulls) is crap
-bridals are thinner and sharper feeling on the stow than maliko
Flow D-Wing 3m
Pros
-all around super easy to fly, very user friendly compared to BRMs
-good low end takeoff grunt
-turns super well
-stows easy but material is thicker than brm(but its only a 3m so it still seems easy)
-flys great off A-lines when OP'd
Cons
-low wind flying it falls out of sky due to heavier canopy material
-rougher bridals when sliding hand up for stowing
-takes longer to dry while flying than BRM
Out of curiosity regarding upwind angles on the Kaa 4.2 are you hooking in with harness and still getting these undesirable upwind gains?Kinda seems like the general consensus on the Kaa here is upwindability is piss poor but if you hook in any improvements
I am using a harness and it does help with upwind angles. I will clarify that my first couple of sessions with the ka'a had me thinking that it didn't go upwind as good as others but since I have had maybe 5-6 sessions, my tune has changed. If I am not flying off mostly front lines, it tends to pull downwind. I think this is what most people struggle with. Once I realized that it flies great off the front lines, the problem has mostly gone away. Its all suttle nuance with these brm's. The maliko took me weeks to figure out how to go upwind, and once I did it was great. I would disagree that the upwind performance of the ka'a is piss poor. Its just like greatlakes said it just takes figuring out the nuance of it. I had a Kanaha 4.7 for a few sessions and it went upwind slightly easier but the canopy never really got fully inflated. It was closer feeling to the maliko. It was good wing but just a little too big for my needs. I swapped it for a 4.2 Ka'a and am stoked.
Reports from rider to rider vary so much it's crazy. I think the Ozones have poor low end but others say they have great grunt. I think the BRM's have awesome low end but others say they are soft. I don't get it.
For re-deploy, I do think that taking the time to pack it down nice makes all the difference in the world. After working up that technique for the Ozone and doing it for 10 sessions I don't even think about it anymore. I'm surfing while packing and stowing it nicely. When I make a mistake, I reverse the packaway because I know how important it is. Once you start getting runs where you are spending 2-3 hours doing flawless redeploys it's a joy.
For those talking about shortening your lines: Consider just ordering replacements. Your dealer can get you replacement lines for the Pocket Rockets. I'd much rather order a replacement set and fool around with them than mess up my current lines. I also wonder about simply ordering the lines for 1 size down and then putting them into the size you want smaller (order 3m lines for your 3.6m or other size). I personally prefer the length though and have no desire to change them.
Select to expand quoteBWalnut said..
Reports from rider to rider vary so much it's crazy. I think the Ozones have poor low end but others say they have great grunt. I think the BRM's have awesome low end but others say they are soft. I don't get it.
For re-deploy, I do think that taking the time to pack it down nice makes all the difference in the world. After working up that technique for the Ozone and doing it for 10 sessions I don't even think about it anymore. I'm surfing while packing and stowing it nicely. When I make a mistake, I reverse the packaway because I know how important it is. Once you start getting runs where you are spending 2-3 hours doing flawless redeploys it's a joy.
For those talking about shortening your lines: Consider just ordering replacements. Your dealer can get you replacement lines for the Pocket Rockets. I'd much rather order a replacement set and fool around with them than mess up my current lines. I also wonder about simply ordering the lines for 1 size down and then putting them into the size you want smaller (order 3m lines for your 3.6m or other size). I personally prefer the length though and have no desire to change them.
Ordering a set of smaller lines isn't a bad idea, but a few of the line shortening methods that I've seen are reversible, so I can try the shorter lines and see how I like it and go back to the full length if I decide its not for me. That was the method I was planning to use for now at least. I'm only looking to shorten them on my 4.3, and even then its still in the "consideration" phase and I may not follow through.
I ask again, how would longer lines increase power? Longer lines with a kite increase power by a completely different mechanism that isn't relevant to parawings.
I'm not an engineer, but I would think that a flatter high aspect canopy profile like the Pocket rockets might need a bit longer lines to be stable, but the PR is really not known for it's good low end power. If the lines were shorter the canopy would either have to be more C-shaped (giving lower power for the AR) or the angle of the bridles to the canopy would be sharper, which I'd guess would make it less stable. My thinking is that line length thus has more to do with what kind of canopy you can design, not really in itself contributing to power. The medium AR parawings like D-wing or Frigate seem to have more low end despite shorter lines than the PR. Can anyone give a convincing explanation of the opposite?
Select to expand quotebroVan said..pitbulldoug said..broVan said..
I love my maliko with mods. I am trying to love my new Ka'a's and think I do but they are a different beast from the maliko. I also have a flow dwing 3m that is really well rounded. I will break down my quiver and experience:
Maliko 4m with mods
Pros
-water relaunch is second to none
-great light wind performance- easy to keep flying while waiting for gust
-sheets out on A-lines nicely and I can drag it upwind easily when depowered.
-turns and jibes easily with a slight back stall to initiate
-stows easily
-goes upwind great
Cons
-re-deploy is a roll of the dice 50/50
-bigger bar with more crap on it makes for more bridal snag points on re-deploy
-Can't get rid of all the flutter when well powered but still performs well, just bothers me visually
Ka'a 4.2
Pros
-good smooth power all the way from under to overpowered
-nice taught canopy when powered and on A-lines
-turns amazing even off a-lines
-stows super easy
-re-deploy is almost 100% success
-small clean bar is nice
Cons
-due to lower aspect it flies more downwind and so going upwind is harder (but I am getting better)
-Sensitive to back stalling (it wants to fly off A-lines)
-water relaunch is way harder than maliko
-light wind flying(just trying to keep in air in lulls) is crap
-bridals are thinner and sharper feeling on the stow than maliko
Flow D-Wing 3m
Pros
-all around super easy to fly, very user friendly compared to BRMs
-good low end takeoff grunt
-turns super well
-stows easy but material is thicker than brm(but its only a 3m so it still seems easy)
-flys great off A-lines when OP'd
Cons
-low wind flying it falls out of sky due to heavier canopy material
-rougher bridals when sliding hand up for stowing
-takes longer to dry while flying than BRM
Out of curiosity regarding upwind angles on the Kaa 4.2 are you hooking in with harness and still getting these undesirable upwind gains?Kinda seems like the general consensus on the Kaa here is upwindability is piss poor but if you hook in any improvements
I am using a harness and it does help with upwind angles. I will clarify that my first couple of sessions with the ka'a had me thinking that it didn't go upwind as good as others but since I have had maybe 5-6 sessions, my tune has changed. If I am not flying off mostly front lines, it tends to pull downwind. I think this is what most people struggle with. Once I realized that it flies great off the front lines, the problem has mostly gone away. Its all suttle nuance with these brm's. The maliko took me weeks to figure out how to go upwind, and once I did it was great. I would disagree that the upwind performance of the ka'a is piss poor. Its just like greatlakes said it just takes figuring out the nuance of it. I had a Kanaha 4.7 for a few sessions and it went upwind slightly easier but the canopy never really got fully inflated. It was closer feeling to the maliko. It was good wing but just a little too big for my needs. I swapped it for a 4.2 Ka'a and am stoked.
Good to know your sorting it out as was thinking when riding with harness should make some decent up wind tracks was getting impression that the Kaa 4.2 was not the greatest tool for the job for getting upwind from what I hear here.but like Brian says seems alot of varied opinions on parawings strong and weak points from rider to rider to be expected a lot of variables
Select to expand quoteJve said..
I ask again, how would longer lines increase power? Longer lines with a kite increase power by a completely different mechanism that isn't relevant to parawings.
I'm not an engineer, but I would think that a flatter high aspect canopy profile like the Pocket rockets might need a bit longer lines to be stable, but the PR is really not known for it's good low end power. If the lines were shorter the canopy would either have to be more C-shaped (giving lower power for the AR) or the angle of the bridles to the canopy would be sharper, which I'd guess would make it less stable. My thinking is that line length thus has more to do with what kind of canopy you can design, not really in itself contributing to power. The medium AR parawings like D-wing or Frigate seem to have more low end despite shorter lines than the PR. Can anyone give a convincing explanation of the opposite?
AOTBE, don't underestimate wind gradient. And the bumpier the surface is, the more on/off the effect of a just a couple of feet or half a meter can be.
Select to expand quoteVelocicraptor said..pumpnjump said..
I'm surprised no one here has mentioned shortening the Ozone lines, such a simple mod, lots of info online, I did the mod and it turns the pocket rocket into such a great parawing, easy stow/redeploy, no tangles, flys perfectly!! Guarantee V2 has shorter lines!!??
Im thinking of shortening the lines on my 4.3 this weekend. Did you splice, or just do the bar wrap method? 9" shorter? Ive seen a few summaries on Facebook, but if you have any tips, I'd appreciate them before I take this on.
I did the bar wrap method, I didn't want to risk stuffing up the parawing if it didn't work, I would happily splice them now as it improves the performance for me so much, there's a couple of videos online of how people have tied there's off which shorten the lines 8-10 inches, it didn't feel like it affected upwind angles or power, it actually made it easier to pump up onto the foil, definitely recommend giving it a go
Select to expand quotepumpnjump said..Velocicraptor said..pumpnjump said..
I'm surprised no one here has mentioned shortening the Ozone lines, such a simple mod, lots of info online, I did the mod and it turns the pocket rocket into such a great parawing, easy stow/redeploy, no tangles, flys perfectly!! Guarantee V2 has shorter lines!!??
Im thinking of shortening the lines on my 4.3 this weekend. Did you splice, or just do the bar wrap method? 9" shorter? Ive seen a few summaries on Facebook, but if you have any tips, I'd appreciate them before I take this on.
I did the bar wrap method, I didn't want to risk stuffing up the parawing if it didn't work, I would happily splice them now as it improves the performance for me so much, there's a couple of videos online of how people have tied there's off which shorten the lines 8-10 inches, it didn't feel like it affected upwind angles or power, it actually made it easier to pump up onto the foil, definitely recommend giving it a go
What size PR are you on? I'm on a 3.0 and am going to try to stiffen the lines up with fabric glue as that's a bigger issue to me than the length on smaller size. That said- I'm looking at larger sizes as lighter winds of winter approach. Suspect with a 3.6 or a 4.3 I'll probably want to shorten. Anyone have a link to good instructions on how to?
Select to expand quoteHoloholo said..pumpnjump said..Velocicraptor said..pumpnjump said..
I'm surprised no one here has mentioned shortening the Ozone lines, such a simple mod, lots of info online, I did the mod and it turns the pocket rocket into such a great parawing, easy stow/redeploy, no tangles, flys perfectly!! Guarantee V2 has shorter lines!!??
Im thinking of shortening the lines on my 4.3 this weekend. Did you splice, or just do the bar wrap method? 9" shorter? Ive seen a few summaries on Facebook, but if you have any tips, I'd appreciate them before I take this on.
I did the bar wrap method, I didn't want to risk stuffing up the parawing if it didn't work, I would happily splice them now as it improves the performance for me so much, there's a couple of videos online of how people have tied there's off which shorten the lines 8-10 inches, it didn't feel like it affected upwind angles or power, it actually made it easier to pump up onto the foil, definitely recommend giving it a go
What size PR are you on? I'm on a 3.0 and am going to try to stiffen the lines up with fabric glue as that's a bigger issue to me than the length on smaller size. That said- I'm looking at larger sizes as lighter winds of winter approach. Suspect with a 3.6 or a 4.3 I'll probably want to shorten. Anyone have a link to good instructions on how to?
Do some test glue ups before you glue your real lines! I hated the feeling of the fabric glue on the lines.
I would shorten lines first, that solved the lightweight line issue and is reversible should it not suit you, no going back with glue! I have the 3m and 4.3
Appreciate the words of caution BW & pump. Definitely feels a bit dicey to be messing w/ a brand new PW.
