Another DIY GPS logger approach

Thanks Jan.

Meanwhile things go to slow for my liking for the next itteration.
Time kills me.
Unit height will be smaller by 8 mm.
Still using the acrilyc tape and pvc cover plate design which proofs to be 100% water resistant in normal cases.
PVC cover plate can be removed and a fresh one attached if needed (not needed sofar).
Pogo charge pins do not oxided with fresh water use during 5 month testing.
No need anymore to cut off the 3 switches black parts.
Memory by 16 MB flash or 128 MB XNAND
Push button at the top side of the Lilygo board has a new place you cant see from the outside!
Charge and push button action LED are removed from the top too.
Still it is possible to use a reed contact with a magnet if you prefer.

Is there user instructions still available for customising the screen layout?

So new version finally ready.

Smaller as previous version but same functions and design construction.

2.13 B74 version Lilygo.

This version has no HighSide switch circuit but simple push switch connected on GPIO39.

A push button switch is located at the corner of the Lilygo PCB.

Due to the flex of the acrylic tape and the 0.3 mm transparant cover when pressing on the lilygo the switch is easily activated from the outside (black circle).

No need for using a magnet and reed contact.In the spaces beside the flexible LCD connector a 3mm LED is placed for switch activation (Green) and charge (Red).

This version works with a regular Micro SD card placed in and external SD card module connected with 6 wires to the Lilygo PCB.

GPS is a Beitian M10 BE-220.

2000 mAh Li-Po battery.

Pogo style 2 pin charge port.

The velcro strap is 38mm wide and 40cm long.

These units are not potted but are used with high tack double sided clear adhesive acrilyc tape to create a water resistant seal in combination with a transparant 0.3mm PVC or PET plate.

Due to the flex of the top plate the pressure inside the unit can alter without causing any problem.

2 x 3mm carbon rods are used to stiffen the velcro strap locations and close the topcover on the main base.

Next version will be with a High Side Switch (50% less current consumption when not used) and a 128MB Nand memory.

Brothers on arms.

Used on left upper arm and right upper arm. in same session.

Seems to be millions on Aliexpress Elmo. First option listed:- $16.46 AUD delivered for one, $258AUD delivered for 20. $12.90 ea. Could get the get the BN180, bit smaller for slightly more. www.aliexpress.com

Is that the branded Beitain or unbranded versions?

My last devices. These are non potted as i dont know why my last epapers froze. I found a burned pogo connector, although I've always been very careful not to use more than 1-amp charger. These ones of mine stick to any metal surface, so they may shortcut I guess, i dont know how but there is something there.
These last ones go with wireless chargers to avoid that, also a made a simple adaptor in TPU to the boom. All leds are visible through the translucent part, push comfirm, Gps, and charging leds from the charger coil.
The screen and frame are glued with flexible resin. I tested it and seem to be very reliable, time will tell..
b r

Nice Jan, thanks a lot!!

Hey experts, I'm trying to program a new one using linux.
I just about had the OTAwebupdater sorted when it disappeared.
Is it still part of the esp dev file?
if not any idea where I can find it?

Looking at Jan's video above, I may have the reason, I'm not sure what espresive version I have, I think a few updates came through, that may have wiped the updater.
More work later.

Decrepit, I can't help you with your problem but would suggest using AI (Grok, Chatgpt etc)...It will make light work of all these niggling programming issues...I copy and pasted your issue and got a solid step by step guide to troubleshooting your issue...way too long to post here....same goes for writing or debugging code..effortless..

I just want to share some ideas. I prnted a supesmall cable organizer, glued to the pcb . Like that you can arrange all parts in the thickness of the board, the reed swich glued with cianocrylate and the Led inserted under one of the cables, everithing secured with the conformal silicon. For me is much simpler now placing it into the enclosure, also if you use translucent filament you will see the led light very clear.

In that first pic you just wait the 3s, then it should say something indicating it's ready to go, you just have to move over the min threshold and it will stat displaying speeds.
The 2nd screen with the magnet, turns the device into a webserver. you can then log into that URL with your browser, and view your data. Although that URL looks wrong, not sure what's going on there.

Looks like you haven't set your WiFi details in the config file

Yes, be very careful of shorting out between connectors, I use very close up glasses, about X3 I think, just to check.

You need a very fine tipped soldering iron to connect to the chip pin, my old wobbly hands aren't the best for that either.
Aldo be careful not to overheat the chip.

Depending how your intended housing you may need to extend the cable. Do that by peeling back the sticker, cutting in the middle, scratch off the insulation with a sharp knife then solder small extension wires, keeping the polarity the same of course. A bit of heat shrink to protect the connections from shorts. Of course you will need to use your awesome soldering skills but its far easier than trying to solder onto the charge chip.....Should be clear in the below photos.