Check out the Glide mast track. It might be possible to get one direct from Bruce Kendall for a small fee.
glidewindsurf.wixsite.com/glide1/copy-of-equipment
Select to expand quotecammd said..
I have a spare brand new RSX mast track, PM me if you want it.
Thanks cammd , but I'm re thinking it again . I think I'll just leave it .
Got it up to 23 kts today and thats plenty for such a beast . If I crash it at that speed or more it's going to be ugly .
I really should have been on a smaller board .
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..
Took out the FKD Titanic today with a proper 8.6 race sail . NP Evo for ****s,n giggles .
Started with 10 to 15 kts and slowly increased to 15 to 18 ish.
It behaved so well 
Planed super early for 115 kg me . Fired upwind , handled the bigger wind and chop with ease and a lot of noise .
Even with the noise it's a smoothish ride .
Even jybed OKish
Speed is medium , definitely not fast even with a race sail . I'd say possibly a tad slower with the race sail apposed to a two cam . I think the race sail pushes on the front too much and slows things down . I had a go standing behind the straps and it did get livelier. If i moved everything back I'm sure it would go faster but it would then change what this board is about . Later when the wind increased I could have changed down a board size or three but I was having too much fun .
Its main strengths are early planing and it's ability to go seriously upwind .
Thats enough waffling ,
Have you tried a decent fin in it?
Not knocking Fangy's fins but weedys don't give the same lift, a pointer might get the board flying properly.
Stick a 44cm fin it & take it for a spin before chopping the shiz out of it
Select to expand quoteAUS 808 said..Imax1 said..
Took out the FKD Titanic today with a proper 8.6 race sail . NP Evo for ****s,n giggles .
Started with 10 to 15 kts and slowly increased to 15 to 18 ish.
It behaved so well
Planed super early for 115 kg me . Fired upwind , handled the bigger wind and chop with ease and a lot of noise .Even with the noise it's a smoothish ride .
Even jybed OKish
Speed is medium , definitely not fast even with a race sail . I'd say possibly a tad slower with the race sail apposed to a two cam . I think the race sail pushes on the front too much and slows things down . I had a go standing behind the straps and it did get livelier. If i moved everything back I'm sure it would go faster but it would then change what this board is about . Later when the wind increased I could have changed down a board size or three but I was having too much fun .
Its main strengths are early planing and it's ability to go seriously upwind .
Thats enough waffling ,
Have you tried a decent fin in it?
Not knocking Fangy's fins but weedys don't give the same lift, a pointer might get the board flying properly.
Stick a 44cm fin it & take it for a spin before chopping the shiz out of it
I've got big pointer fins , can't wait to try them , only used a 28 cm weedy on the board so far .
Hi been following the board build looks awesome, I have a mistral prodigy which is almost identical dimensions to your build which I am repainting at the moment. I will be doing a grip area with caster sugar like yours, I was wondering if you used epoxy resin for sprinkling the sugar and also was it just standard contact adhesive for your footpads or do you need some specialist type, Also noticed you stuck the pads after grip was done did you sand the grip smooth in footpad area or no need for this?
^^^
I just looked up the Mistral prodigy , it looks like a plastic coated board . Beware , if it is , nothing will stick to it as far as resins go . Paint wont like sticking to it either and will peel lifting the grip and pads . If it is resin finished , no worries . Someone else might know what to use on a plastic coating .
I did use a clear epoxy rolled on evenly with a roller . Being even is the trick for neatness . Two parts caster , one part normal sugar .
I didn't sand the grip area for the foot pads but i did sand the smooth rails where the pad also stuck on .
Selleys Quick Grip Horizontal , Bunnings .
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..
^^^
I just looked up the Mistral prodigy , it looks like a plastic coated board . Beware , if it is , nothing will stick to it as far as resins go . Paint wont like sticking to it either and will peel lifting the grip and pads . If it is resin finished , no worries . Someone else might know what to use on a plastic coating .
I did use a clear epoxy rolled on evenly with a roller . Being even is the trick for neatness . Two parts caster , one part normal sugar .
I didn't sand the grip area for the foot pads but i did sand the smooth rails where the pad also stuck on .
Selleys Quick Grip Horizontal , Bunnings .
Yes it does seem kind of plasticy compared to my other boards, although I did cut out some fairly large sections of de laminated deck about 5 years ago and repaired with d cell and epoxy and it has been sound ever since, I will have to research the materials more before I start this
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..AUS 808 said..Imax1 said..
Took out the FKD Titanic today with a proper 8.6 race sail . NP Evo for ****s,n giggles .
Started with 10 to 15 kts and slowly increased to 15 to 18 ish.
It behaved so well
Planed super early for 115 kg me . Fired upwind , handled the bigger wind and chop with ease and a lot of noise .Even with the noise it's a smoothish ride .
Even jybed OKish
Speed is medium , definitely not fast even with a race sail . I'd say possibly a tad slower with the race sail apposed to a two cam . I think the race sail pushes on the front too much and slows things down . I had a go standing behind the straps and it did get livelier. If i moved everything back I'm sure it would go faster but it would then change what this board is about . Later when the wind increased I could have changed down a board size or three but I was having too much fun .
Its main strengths are early planing and it's ability to go seriously upwind .
Thats enough waffling ,
Have you tried a decent fin in it?
Not knocking Fangy's fins but weedys don't give the same lift, a pointer might get the board flying properly.
Stick a 44cm fin it & take it for a spin before chopping the shiz out of it
I've got big pointer fins , can't wait to try them , only used a 28 cm weedy on the board so far .
I used a 51 cm pointer fin today.
Big difference ,planed earlier , pointed even higher but the main thing is it planed higher out of the water , went quite fast in 12 ish kts extra grinny.
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..Imax1 said..AUS 808 said..Imax1 said..
Took out the FKD Titanic today with a proper 8.6 race sail . NP Evo for ****s,n giggles .
Started with 10 to 15 kts and slowly increased to 15 to 18 ish.
It behaved so well
Planed super early for 115 kg me . Fired upwind , handled the bigger wind and chop with ease and a lot of noise .Even with the noise it's a smoothish ride .
Even jybed OKish
Speed is medium , definitely not fast even with a race sail . I'd say possibly a tad slower with the race sail apposed to a two cam . I think the race sail pushes on the front too much and slows things down . I had a go standing behind the straps and it did get livelier. If i moved everything back I'm sure it would go faster but it would then change what this board is about . Later when the wind increased I could have changed down a board size or three but I was having too much fun .
Its main strengths are early planing and it's ability to go seriously upwind .
Thats enough waffling ,
Have you tried a decent fin in it?
Not knocking Fangy's fins but weedys don't give the same lift, a pointer might get the board flying properly.
Stick a 44cm fin it & take it for a spin before chopping the shiz out of it
I've got big pointer fins , can't wait to try them , only used a 28 cm weedy on the board so far .
I used a 51 cm pointer fin today.
Big difference ,planed earlier , pointed even higher but the main thing is it planed higher out of the water , went quite fast in 12 ish kts extra grinny.
I'll bet it even gybed better
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..
^^^
I just looked up the Mistral prodigy , it looks like a plastic coated board . Beware , if it is , nothing will stick to it as far as resins go . Paint wont like sticking to it either and will peel lifting the grip and pads . If it is resin finished , no worries . Someone else might know what to use on a plastic coating .
I did use a clear epoxy rolled on evenly with a roller . Being even is the trick for neatness . Two parts caster , one part normal sugar .
I didn't sand the grip area for the foot pads but i did sand the smooth rails where the pad also stuck on .
Selleys Quick Grip Horizontal , Bunnings .
Nice work with board build Imax!
I have a prodigy - pretty sure it's a carbon/glass layup (not foam sandwich) and looks like paint or gelcoat on outside.
What do you mean by plastic skin? I need to do a couple of surface repairs so good to know what I'm dealing with. Ivan
Select to expand quotehops said..Imax1 said..
^^^
I just looked up the Mistral prodigy , it looks like a plastic coated board . Beware , if it is , nothing will stick to it as far as resins go . Paint wont like sticking to it either and will peel lifting the grip and pads . If it is resin finished , no worries . Someone else might know what to use on a plastic coating .
I did use a clear epoxy rolled on evenly with a roller . Being even is the trick for neatness . Two parts caster , one part normal sugar .
I didn't sand the grip area for the foot pads but i did sand the smooth rails where the pad also stuck on .
Selleys Quick Grip Horizontal , Bunnings .
Nice work with board build Imax!
I have a prodigy - pretty sure it's a carbon/glass layup (not foam sandwich) and looks like paint or gelcoat on outside.
What do you mean by plastic skin? I need to do a couple of surface repairs so good to know what I'm dealing with. Ivan
Yeah im not sure if it is plastic or resin . It just looks like it is in the pic i looked at . Different year models could be made different . If it has a seam along the edge it probably is plastic coated . I have a mistral race-board and is , i believe carbon and Kevlar construction and is still plastic coated for some toughness . BIC also use a plastic coating .
Can you post close up shots of the damage , rails and fin box ? What size and year is yours ? Ill try and sus it out .
Hi, no seams like an IMCO but it's almost like a shorter/wider version with tail cut off haha.
Year about 2008 - around time of Mistral change of ownership, blue padded deck, 255L.
Thanks, here's pics:
It does look like resin finish , should be fine to fix with epoxy .
Non structural easy bog fixes .
If you dont have resin id suggest Araldyte or Selleys for porcelain fixes . Its cheap and easy , is thick , ( like toothpaste ) , and white in color , from Bunnings .
Chip off loose bits sand area with 400 grit.
Make a flexible squeegee that u can wrap around the rail profile . ( soft plastic ice-cream lid ).
Pile resin oversive on hole .
Scrape the curved squeegee over the area and it will be almost perfect .
Awesome, thanks for the tips!
Experienced with some sailboat repairs and built a couple dodgey sailboards a long time ago.
Have west system & microballoons, but wasn't sure about putting the epoxy over the top of
the surface. Seems now like it'll be fine, should I spray some white paint over the top?
Or for simplicity, the Selleys porcelain sounds like the go :-)
The selleys stuff is easy and the color will be close.
When finished id go over the whole board with 400 wet and dry with lots of water , it will bring that slightly yellowing look back to original.
A good soapy truck wash will clean the rest quite good .
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..hops said..Imax1 said..
^^^
I just looked up the Mistral prodigy , it looks like a plastic coated board . Beware , if it is , nothing will stick to it as far as resins go . Paint wont like sticking to it either and will peel lifting the grip and pads . If it is resin finished , no worries . Someone else might know what to use on a plastic coating .
I did use a clear epoxy rolled on evenly with a roller . Being even is the trick for neatness . Two parts caster , one part normal sugar .
I didn't sand the grip area for the foot pads but i did sand the smooth rails where the pad also stuck on .
Selleys Quick Grip Horizontal , Bunnings .
Nice work with board build Imax!
I have a prodigy - pretty sure it's a carbon/glass layup (not foam sandwich) and looks like paint or gelcoat on outside.
What do you mean by plastic skin? I need to do a couple of surface repairs so good to know what I'm dealing with. Ivan
Yeah im not sure if it is plastic or resin . It just looks like it is in the pic i looked at . Different year models could be made different . If it has a seam along the edge it probably is plastic coated . I have a mistral race-board and is , i believe carbon and Kevlar construction and is still plastic coated for some toughness . BIC also use a plastic coating .
Can you post close up shots of the damage , rails and fin box ? What size and year is yours ? Ill try and sus it out .
Mine is 2001 model and does have the seam round the edge. Maybe I can sand back until I can see the glass fibre removing all the plastic and start again from there.
Select to expand quotemob dog said..Imax1 said..hops said..Imax1 said..
^^^
I just looked up the Mistral prodigy , it looks like a plastic coated board . Beware , if it is , nothing will stick to it as far as resins go . Paint wont like sticking to it either and will peel lifting the grip and pads . If it is resin finished , no worries . Someone else might know what to use on a plastic coating .
I did use a clear epoxy rolled on evenly with a roller . Being even is the trick for neatness . Two parts caster , one part normal sugar .
I didn't sand the grip area for the foot pads but i did sand the smooth rails where the pad also stuck on .
Selleys Quick Grip Horizontal , Bunnings .
Nice work with board build Imax!
I have a prodigy - pretty sure it's a carbon/glass layup (not foam sandwich) and looks like paint or gelcoat on outside.
What do you mean by plastic skin? I need to do a couple of surface repairs so good to know what I'm dealing with. Ivan
Yeah im not sure if it is plastic or resin . It just looks like it is in the pic i looked at . Different year models could be made different . If it has a seam along the edge it probably is plastic coated . I have a mistral race-board and is , i believe carbon and Kevlar construction and is still plastic coated for some toughness . BIC also use a plastic coating .
Can you post close up shots of the damage , rails and fin box ? What size and year is yours ? Ill try and sus it out .
Mine is 2001 model and does have the seam round the edge. Maybe I can sand back until I can see the glass fibre removing all the plastic and start again from there.
Oooooh,
I wouldn't do that . The layer is quite thick and part of the layup. Remove it and it will considerably weaken it ,and probably leak . Also if you remove the seam it will come apart .
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..mob dog said..Imax1 said..hops said..Imax1 said..
^^^
I just looked up the Mistral prodigy , it looks like a plastic coated board . Beware , if it is , nothing will stick to it as far as resins go . Paint wont like sticking to it either and will peel lifting the grip and pads . If it is resin finished , no worries . Someone else might know what to use on a plastic coating .
I did use a clear epoxy rolled on evenly with a roller . Being even is the trick for neatness . Two parts caster , one part normal sugar .
I didn't sand the grip area for the foot pads but i did sand the smooth rails where the pad also stuck on .
Selleys Quick Grip Horizontal , Bunnings .
Nice work with board build Imax!
I have a prodigy - pretty sure it's a carbon/glass layup (not foam sandwich) and looks like paint or gelcoat on outside.
What do you mean by plastic skin? I need to do a couple of surface repairs so good to know what I'm dealing with. Ivan
Yeah im not sure if it is plastic or resin . It just looks like it is in the pic i looked at . Different year models could be made different . If it has a seam along the edge it probably is plastic coated . I have a mistral race-board and is , i believe carbon and Kevlar construction and is still plastic coated for some toughness . BIC also use a plastic coating .
Can you post close up shots of the damage , rails and fin box ? What size and year is yours ? Ill try and sus it out .
Mine is 2001 model and does have the seam round the edge. Maybe I can sand back until I can see the glass fibre removing all the plastic and start again from there.
Oooooh,
I wouldn't do that . The layer is quite thick and part of the layup. Remove it and it will considerably weaken it ,and probably leak . Also if you remove the seam it will come apart .
Must be something I can prime it with first. Im going to use norglass polyurethane paint I will ask them if there is a product for priming the plastic before painting.
Ive done a few repairs on the older ASA skinned board like that. The repair often looks very small but seems to grow as you sand away. Its like the ASA skin had peeled away for a large area along the join. I was expecting a small patch 3x5cm. Ended up 5x15cm. But still an ok repair. Good sanding n surface prep are key to success.
Paintwise try Rustoleum. Its Super sticky paint.
Sounds like the MK1 & MKII are different beasts. One day I'll post result of what should be relatively simple touch-ups Imax1, and give it a clean and rub with 400.
Good luck mob dog!
Select to expand quotehops said..
Sounds like the MK1 & MKII are different beasts. One day I'll post result of what should be relatively simple touch-ups Imax1, and give it a clean and rub with 400.
Good luck mob dog!
Yes Mk1 and Mk2 definitely different my one has the seam around it as seen in pic whereas yours doesn't but one things for sure, epoxy definitely sticks to it. Took me over 6 hrs to sand previous epoxy coating I applied about 5 years ago using 40 grit sandpaper on a powerful disc sander it was rock hard and stuck like s!#t to a blanket. Got some technical advice from norglass and was told epoxy will stick straight to all plastic except PVC, what's needed for this is sanded surface, (not glossy) and wiped with a preparation product which is identical to the primer plumbers use before they glue PVC pipes together. Don't know what kind of plastic the board is wrapped in but probably not PVC judging by the way it stuck. Any way a little bit of glass work to do, then new epoxy base then paint in 2 pac polyurethane and see how it goes, gotta learn somehow right.
Looking good . The skin is also not polyethylene either , nothing sticks to that also. Looks good to go with resin .
Its a strange looking construction with those extra patches along the sides .
Leave the seam there , don't grind it off .
Should get good results
