Select to expand quotesboardcrazy said..
It's never been left wet in a boardbag except for driving home after a sail.
Handy. I've seen a lot of boards get damaged from being wet inside board bags. I only use board bags for transport now too
Select to expand quoteGestalt said..
stainless is not great. Even the higher grade stuff. Stainless used in coastal environments requires a very regular maintenance scheme to avoid rusting. Brass and bronze are the best in extreme environments. Just a pity it's so soft. We use stainless because it's strong and is better than normal steel.
the real issue though is stainless screws into brass insert. dissimilar metals in salt water are not great. When all is said and done stainless screws into plastic is really the best option. Or regular maintenance.
Some parts have to be stainless. Fin screws and the pulleys used for downhaul are stainless and the only real way to look after them is by rinsing with fresh water, even though some tap water is not altogether ph neutral.
Large amounts of stainless fixings sold as 316 stainless (the higher grade) are still going to corrode. Lots of fixings sold as 316 are not in fact true 316 at all. Some unscrupulous retailers brand 306 as 316. Some imported 316 is garbage. Highest grade is Monel steel not very common but used in large vessel through hull valves etc.
Much of the corrosion, discolouration, and staining on stainless is due to galvanic action. Yachts install multiple anodes to help correct this but stainless still gets staining or worse corrosion. Using products like Teffgell helps but will not totally prevents this.
The sea is a harsh environment, boards get stored wet, whether rinsed or not foot strap neoprene covers hold salt and water, stainless fixings and brass inserts both induce currant flow through the board, carbon is a great conductor, something has to fizz. Just check your fixings every so often, most don't fail unless neglected for a long time, the plastic fails around them due to the expansion.
Select to expand quoteMr Milk said..
I just cleaned the same amount of staining by going back to chemistry basics. All acetates are soluble, so a squirt of vinegar over the area, soak a few minutes, scrub with a toothbrush, rinse, repeat and it's not quite as good as new, but the obvious stain has disappeared
Sprinkling a little bicarb (baking soda) soda over the (white) vinegar will help.
Select to expand quotesboardcrazy said..mikey100 said..
Sounds like a good excuse to buy a new board. 
They don't make them anymore..
The boards all good. I just replaced the tail plate adjuster screw with a new on and it's as good as new.
Where did you get the tail plate screw Sue? I have one of the early metal head ones and I can't turn it without tearing my fingers.
Select to expand quoteGasHazard said..sboardcrazy said..mikey100 said..
Sounds like a good excuse to buy a new board.
They don't make them anymore.. The boards all good. I just replaced the tail plate adjuster screw with a new on and it's as good as new.
Where did you get the tail plate screw Sue? I have one of the early metal head ones and I can't turn it without tearing my fingers.
You can spray WD40 into the screw and let it sit for a while then move the screw back and forth and it gradually gets it moving again.
My WT64 screwhead was jammed and I thought we'd break it getting it out but we used a socket and it worked well.
I had a plastic one and used pliers and eventually the plastic head came off. So probably not the best using pliers or if you do insert some cloth around the head of the screw to protect it..
I've loosened some using the technique above and then you can take them out to maintain them.
Neil sent me his last adjustments screws.
You need to take them out regularly and put some vaseline on them to maintain them. Contact Neil if these tips don't help..
try naval jelly - it dissolves rust. i havent tried on eva, so mebbe try an inconspicuous location 1st as they say,....
So does CLR that is known to be good on EVA, costs little and is a supermarket item.
