Regarding Point B, I thought vents were made of plastic (?), so silicone would stick. (Or weren't you referring to vents?)
Points A and F are good but in some cases they self destruct very slowly! Take my board that was accidently not drilled at the factory, with no sign of damage after 20 years. Despite presumably the previous owner(s) being unaware therefore wouldn't have gone to much trouble to protect the board from heat etc. I tried to contact the previous owner, just out of curiosity about this stuff but the Seabreeze robot suggested he may be in France. Does anyone know if I think his name is Loic (Seabreeze name "lehic"), from near Gosford is around/contactable?
There is an old instructive thread in surf or sup section where Bert Burger explain is though about venting foam. He is a goretex guy, that can work but like decrepit i see many problems with goretex nuts. Bert explain that d?pend of temp?rature when board is build and close. Find the same, if board is cook to high temp, about 50?C at end of build, closed vent when hot, then no problems up to this temp. When i repair unvented boards i try to close board when it start cooling from hot temp, seems to work.
Select to expand quotelemat said..
There is an old instructive thread in surf or sup section where Bert Burger explain is though about venting foam. He is a goretex guy, that can work but like decrepit i see many problems with goretex nuts. Bert explain that d?pend of temp?rature when board is build and close. Find the same, if board is cook to high temp, about 50?C at end of build, closed vent when hot, then no problems up to this temp. When i repair unvented boards i try to close board when it start cooling from hot temp, seems to work.
If the vent is closed when the board is hot, this would make it negative pressure when cooler. Wouldn't this mean that if the board was dinged it would suck in even more water?
Select to expand quotejontyh said.. >>>>Wouldn't this mean that if the board was dinged it would suck in even more water?
Sure would, don't like that idea at all.
But I suspect no board is ever that air tight, I think pressure would slowly equalise.
When I do my bung up at the beach, I try to do it with the board cold, not hot.
Select to expand quotejontyh said..lemat said..
There is an old instructive thread in surf or sup section where Bert Burger explain is though about venting foam. He is a goretex guy, that can work but like decrepit i see many problems with goretex nuts. Bert explain that d?pend of temp?rature when board is build and close. Find the same, if board is cook to high temp, about 50?C at end of build, closed vent when hot, then no problems up to this temp. When i repair unvented boards i try to close board when it start cooling from hot temp, seems to work.
If the vent is closed when the board is hot, this would make it negative pressure when cooler. Wouldn't this mean that if the board was dinged it would suck in even more water?
Leads me to a good emergency repair tip for when you don't have a vacuum pump handy
Place the board in the warm sun before repairing. Place the patch/epoxy over the damaged area, then close the vent and move the board into the shade. As the board cools, it will draw the epoxy into the damaged area making for a stronger repair.
Select to expand quotejontyh said..lemat said..
There is an old instructive thread in surf or sup section where Bert Burger explain is though about venting foam. He is a goretex guy, that can work but like decrepit i see many problems with goretex nuts. Bert explain that d?pend of temp?rature when board is build and close. Find the same, if board is cook to high temp, about 50?C at end of build, closed vent when hot, then no problems up to this temp. When i repair unvented boards i try to close board when it start cooling from hot temp, seems to work.
If the vent is closed when the board is hot, this would make it negative pressure when cooler. Wouldn't this mean that if the board was dinged it would suck in even more water?
No it's reverse, pressure in board go out from ding pushing water out but it's just for a small time.
Select to expand quotejdfoils said..jontyh said..lemat said..
There is an old instructive thread in surf or sup section where Bert Burger explain is though about venting foam. He is a goretex guy, that can work but like decrepit i see many problems with goretex nuts. Bert explain that d?pend of temp?rature when board is build and close. Find the same, if board is cook to high temp, about 50?C at end of build, closed vent when hot, then no problems up to this temp. When i repair unvented boards i try to close board when it start cooling from hot temp, seems to work.
If the vent is closed when the board is hot, this would make it negative pressure when cooler. Wouldn't this mean that if the board was dinged it would suck in even more water?
Leads me to a good emergency repair tip for when you don't have a vacuum pump handy
Place the board in the warm sun before repairing. Place the patch/epoxy over the damaged area, then close the vent and move the board into the shade. As the board cools, it will draw the epoxy into the damaged area making for a stronger repair.
For gun where you want strenght and wait, i used to cook shape blank in oven for some hours, when it's hot i put it out and while it cool i make it suck resin deep. Add wait and stiffness increased buckling and denting strengh.
We had more interesting thoughts - when would be the best time to permanently seal a board, followed by does it matter because perhaps all boards leak very slowly.
A more practical question - fully removing the screw would be annoying (both doing it, then putting the screw where it won't be lost) so how often do you think the threads on a screw are airtight? Some screws have a flat on the threads for this, some don't. I've never heard the hiss some people talk about - how far they unscrew before hearing that, would answer the question.
Has anyone ever blown up a board by only backing off, rather than removing, the screw?
I have had a few boards that needed an e-z out screw extractor and spanner to get the screw out so yeah that would be air tight surely.
Select to expand quotelemat said..jontyh said..lemat said..
There is an old instructive thread in surf or sup section where Bert Burger explain is though about venting foam. He is a goretex guy, that can work but like decrepit i see many problems with goretex nuts. Bert explain that d?pend of temp?rature when board is build and close. Find the same, if board is cook to high temp, about 50?C at end of build, closed vent when hot, then no problems up to this temp. When i repair unvented boards i try to close board when it start cooling from hot temp, seems to work.
If the vent is closed when the board is hot, this would make it negative pressure when cooler. Wouldn't this mean that if the board was dinged it would suck in even more water?
No it's reverse, pressure in board go out from ding pushing water out but it's just for a small time.
I can be out here. You are right, water sucking d?pend of pressure variation so if you close board hot and it's air tight, when it's cooling incide pressure lower than outside so if ding in water it suck !
Select to expand quotewendell said..
We had more interesting thoughts - when would be the best time to permanently seal a board, followed by does it matter because perhaps all boards leak very slowly.
A more practical question - fully removing the screw would be annoying (both doing it, then putting the screw where it won't be lost) so how often do you think the threads on a screw are airtight? Some screws have a flat on the threads for this, some don't. I've never heard the hiss some people talk about - how far they unscrew before hearing that, would answer the question.
Has anyone ever blown up a board by only backing off, rather than removing, the screw?
Only conical screw thread are water/air tight when squezze, screw vents waterproofing come from O-ring. Flat on thread allow higher air flow, better for this but not if O-ring is damage.
I hope a "good board" is waterproof, at least when it's new. A board that let air going in an out but not water would be the solution, but except goretex...
If you use a Chinook 2 bolt base and have the normal cobra-style vent screws, you can completely remove the screw and store it upside down and locked in the base plate. Then you cannot install the universal without removing the vent screw; reminding you not to forget it,,,
