Thanks for the photos Marks ,it starts to become more clear.
Sorry for my many questions and if I get you confused sometimes.
Hi there!! Does anyone know how I can get the starboard stickers here in Japan? I found a site, however stickers are not available for Japan!
www.starboard-proshop.eu/2017-Starboard-TIKI-Sticker-Windsurfer-Aufkleber_1
Hi!! Finally, after a lot of time and hard work I completed the repair of my board.
I would like to thank you all of you for your assistance and your advises.
Some pictures are attached.
And a last question; After finishing with the clear UV coat some spots of the bottom are really glossy but some others are not so.When I tried to put one more layer of glossy clear coat on that spots they get really glossy but on the other hand the other spots that were previous glossy became some raffle. Does anyone know why this might happen and how can corrected?
I am suspicious on the spray dust coat which lay on the area that I am not spraying directly.
I agree - top job 
The paint problem you are experiencing is due to the drop of dry spray in other areas - its very hard to get a good job with spraycans on a large surface. You need to maintain a wet edge with overlap when spraying to avoid the dry areas, but even if you get that correct, the poor quality nozzle blows mist elsewhere and that lands dry on the surface.
More pressure can help so putting the can in hot water like 50deg for a few mins before can help.
Yes I see, Mark! So if I used some kind of polish compound I could make it all glossy or not?
Anyway, the job has been completed and even if I spent a lot of time and some money more it was a really nice experience!
I hope to last even if I have the feeling that the paint it is not so strong!
How many days do you believe it takes to fully dry?
Finally, I want to thank you all for your comments especially you Mark and Decrepit!!
Enjoy!!
Also I would like to thanks my japanese friend Ryosuke who helped me offering his workshop!
I did wonder about the air compressor blowgun on the wall of your house hahahaha
Buffing out paints always takes some coats off,you'd need to have a margin of at least 2 or 3 coats you can take off.
If there was adequate drying between coats you could maybe do it after a week, depends on ambient tempand airflow so the longer you wait the better.
Wet sand from 400 down to 2000 then a buffer.....its long........
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
I did wonder about the air compressor blowgun on the wall of your house hahahaha
Buffing out paints always takes some coats off,you'd need to have a margin of at least 2 or 3 coats you can take off.
If there was adequate drying between coats you could maybe do it after a week, depends on ambient tempand airflow so the longer you wait the better.
Wet sand from 400 down to 2000 then a buffer.....its long........
I think every room in a house could do with a compressed air outlet . Couldn't hurt .
OK , I know the routine , off to bed I go .
But I haven't been drinking ,
I know , still off to bed.
Select to expand quoteDratsas said..
Yes I see, Mark! So if I used some kind of polish compound I could make it all glossy or not?
Anyway, the job has been completed and even if I spent a lot of time and some money more it was a really nice experience!
I hope to last even if I have the feeling that the paint it is not so strong!
How many days do you believe it takes to fully dry?
Finally, I want to thank you all for your comments especially you Mark and Decrepit!!
Enjoy!!
Also I would like to thanks my japanese friend Ryosuke who helped me offering his workshop!
He has very white teeth and a air hose coming out of the wall , should we cal 911 ?
Have u seen the movie Hostel ???
ps : ok everyone , I dare u to watch it . I thought the Saw movies were enough.
pps : it's not my fault , I didn't make the movie.
Ok Mark I got it. I think I will leave it as it is because I think I will never go windsurfing if I always do something on my board. Also, I have not a big margin with the coat. That I will leave for the next project. I hope not soon enough,hahahaha!!
No, I havent seen the movie Imax1. I saw the trailer and I think I will keep it that way, hahaha!!!
What I was saying??? ( About sensitivity???)
Why I was not saying for a million dollars?
A piece of paint was removed. I thought it will not be so easy for the paint to get away with a simple hit.
Why this can be happened?
All kinds of reasons, normally primer had a greasy mark (not washed well before top coat with wax n grease remover) or not sanding primer well (too smooth)
Or maybe the little hit was a big one, and spray can paint is never that strong.
The best thing is, after the first damage you are not scared to use it now :) I always like it the first time I damage a new board. Kinda....
I did not clean the primer before apply the paint, since when I tried to clean by acetone the primer was removed like butter, I just made some wet sanding with a 1500wet sand paper. I applied two kind of primers! At first a 500 of something, i think has to do with the thickness of the primer. After i put a 1200 of the same primer and then wet sanding with the 1500 sandpaper. I tried to use a rafter one as you suggested me but it was removed the all primer.
Anyhow, I put some paint on the damaged spot. I hope do not paint the ocean as I will be windsurfing!!!! Hahahaha!!
I will revert soon!!!
Thanks!!!
Primer only needs a light sand with about 360-400 grade wet so as to smooth it out but leave enough marks for paint to adhere well.
1500 is way too smooth to sand the primer, the paint will not stick well.
After sanding with about 400 wet, just a good wash then a rub with wax n grease remover
I understand. Probably I should apply more primer in order to be able to do the sanding with the 400 wet paper.
Now another problem has been appeared.
I was curious about the sealing of vent plug and made the test with cold-hot condition. I found out that there is a leakage from the vent plug.
I will try to make the surface smooth and flat where the o-ring lay down, and I will check again.
Any other options of repair methods?
Some suggestions were: 1.Epoxy and fiberglass above the hole.
2. Apply silicone and then screw the plug.
Good idea to wear gloves when you move the object too. It's amazing how an oily fingerprint will stuff up a job.
Yes that needs to come out ideally - but then you're repainting again!
Seal it up with surf wax I reckon......
It's a weak point that will kill your board.
Id fill it up with resin and glass a patch over the top and put a new vent plug in.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
Yes that needs to come out ideally - but then you're repainting again!
Seal it up with surf wax I reckon......
What do you mean surf wax I reckon? Is it some kind of material like epoxy?
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
Yes that needs to come out ideally - but then you're repainting again!
Seal it up with surf wax I reckon......
What do you mean surf wax I reckon? Is it some kind of material like epoxy?Select to expand quoteImax1 said..
It's a weak point that will kill your board.
Id fill it up with resin and glass a patch over the top and put a new vent plug in.
To put a new vent plug in a different position or at the same spot with a smaller diameter?
What about if I fill the hole with silicone, then screw the vent plug and check for leakage?
Something Else!
The vent plug isn't for the board to keep breathing whenever the temperature change so the pressure in the internal part of the board?
I was thinking that if we did not want the air to come out of the board how it will be breathing?
What I want to make clear to me is that the vent plug should or should not leave the air comes out?
Or maybe common board plugs are not work as auto vent plugs but as sealing plugs and when you unscrew them work as a vent! Maybe this matches better. Is that correct?
Yes as per your last line, that plug will obviously only breathe when opened - it is designed to be open any time the board is not in use.
If it never gets really hot, nor goes on an aeroplane, then you may be fine leaving it closed. (not with that crack though)
The rubber o-ring is what seals it normally. Its possibly not sealing due to the crack
Silicone would work to seal the crack just fine....but the reason I suggested surfboard wax is it is very cheap (only $5 per block?) easy to force into the crack, won't melt styrofoam core, and is easily reapplied each time you go sailing. In fact, some people cover the vent plug with surf wax so if it is leaking, water can't get in but if the board pressure is high, it will still vent as it can move the wax aside easily.
Put it this way, if it was a one year old board, I'd replace the vent plug.
But given it is an older board, and you have just done a great job restoring it so might not want to have to repaint part of the deck again, plus difficulty of ordering a vent plug insert in Japan (?) and the time required to neatly install it when that crack may not even go all the way thru to foam- I said maybe just fill it with wax.... as really all you are trying to do is ensure water stays out (and it may not even be getting in.
Do u sail in salt water? If u do, clean around the crack, put the screw in (with rubber o-ring) and leave board upside down in the sun for a couple of days. If there is salt water coming out that crack, u will see crystallisation around it. If no white crystals in crack after few days, just go sail it :)
Hi there.
Silicone made a very good sealing on the board.
9,8 kilos before and after windsurfing session.
