Select to expand quotejn1 said..
Hi Imax. I followed the instructions on the can last night. The only thing I didn't do (that it instructed) was spray down the surface with water.
I know when using expanding foam, spraying with water seems to make it stick better to the surfaces you are trying to fill. I am not sure I would do it on a board though. But then again I am a divinycell/pour foam type of guy 
I'm thinking the foam may of had a reaction with the glue that is used on the duct tape . That is where it it didn't foam ??? Otherwise it looks like it foamed up good .
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..
I'm thinking the foam may of had a reaction with the glue that is used on the duct tape . That is where it it didn't foam ??? Otherwise it looks like it foamed up good .
The 1 part foam in-a-can does not like to be sealed off from the air. let it breath & it will cure. 2-part foam is much better but can foam will work.
Thanks all for feedback.
Having a chat on the phone with Imax yesterday, he was really scratching his head. "It should work !".
I did a simple test to see if the expander foam was reacting to the cloth tape. It wasn't that. But, I found out the fault in the end. It's was caused by an "Idiot Behind Machine" (IBM) error. I operated the can side up, and not upside down. However, the instructions on the can did not mention this, but the picture on the can showed what to do. And I call myself a picture man.. anyway
So I retried; making the area open (Imax's suggestion) and operating the can the way it was designed to be operated. Much better.
Paducah: I know you said not to use cloth tape. It was a hot weekend, I didn't want to use masking tape as it lifts off the board when it gets hot.
The result of Saturday. A nice finish in the fwd side of the box hole.
Today was the business - time to get buttery !. Some years back, I threw out my old talcum powder (I think because it went solid ?). Today, I could not for the life of me buy unscented talcum powder (3 supermarkets + Chemist Warehouse). Nobody seems to sell it anymore. I read somewhere not to use baby powder as a filler, but this is all that was available. So, baby powder it was. I mixed 60ml of epoxy and doubled the volume with baby powder until I got a mayonnaise thickness.
I buttered inside of box hole and outside of box, and fitted box into board from the bottom of board. Everything went well.
Once box was in, I taped up deck.
I checked fin to make sure it's 90 deg. I take back what I said earlier about never milling out a fin box again. The tight fit made it very easy today. It was forecast 27C today, but it hit 31C at my place, and the glue cured very quickly. If I had the extra step of making sure fin was square while doing everything else, it could've turned into a sh1t show.
Roughly 90min later, the glue had turned plastic on the bottom. So, now I flip board to work on the deck. This is what I found. A few spaces around box. It looked worse than it was I think.
Nb/ The remainder of the glue in the tray cured nicely. No melt down or unpredictable reaction. So, the baby powder seems ok at this stage.
About 10ml clear epoxy to fill the voids, then mixed in baby powder and closed it off.
You can get away with talc/baby powder mixed much thicker than that and it still works fine. I have made the mistake of making it too runny in the past and it ran too much.
Talc is better than microballons in that it mixes much better and quicker.
One little thing that might help for using epoxy in hot weather: I like to buy a bit more work time by chilling resins in the freezer before mixing, especially if making a bog mix.
I don't understand not using proper fillers?
That's funny with putting resin in the fridge, I've seen that in Maui 
In NZ winters we used to wrap the 20l resin in an electric blanket 
Select to expand quote515 said..
In NZ winters we used to wrap the 20l resin in an electric blanket
Yeah, temperature makes a difference. Its easy in cold weather to do all the mixing and work with cool resin, and then put the heater on to accelerate the reaction. Whereas hot weather can make it too much of a rush.
Yeah, in our winters heated resin and laminating bay. Without heating resin the resin is thicker and harder to wet out.
In summer and hotter climate need everything prepared and using wide flat container so resin doesn't build up temperature.
Work fast and when resin is warm it's easier to wet out. Saying that never worked when temperature in mid thirties
Select to expand quote515 said..
I don't understand not using proper fillers?
At least in my case it comes down to laziness. I use epoxy for filling timber a lot more these days than repairing boards. Talc works well and is very easy to get at a supermarket. Cheap too.
I came across something which compared filler compounds and talc rated surprisingly well. It mixes well and sands well.
I have a bag of microballoons around somewhere and I tried using them for a project recently and I think I ended up losing more to the air and floor than I mixed. It is like they do their best to avoid the epoxy.
In repairing some other stuff I have also used sand and cement as a filler (in concrete), sawdust, plaster base coat, and flour. I am not sure they all worked very well but the sand and cement epoxy mix seemed to work well and holding up. From memory I think the plaster was the worst for some reason. I wouldn't use any of these in a board before anyone asks 
515: I'm just the monkey following guidance. But Imax explained that the expander foam is a cost/time trade off, and been told to persevere with it. I'm in no rush to get this board finished. But, I'm happy to follow any advice or tips.
Sandee: Ok thanks 
Monday night, I gave the top of the fin box a jolly good 'what for' with the expanding foam. This morning:
This evening when I scraped the top off. It's not happy . I think there is no point applying this stuff from the top side. So, I turned board upside down, and went for it again. I did it in two stages: first I half filled it. Then came back 10min later, then filled the remainder. Let's see how that goes. Perseverance.
The previous night, I made this sanding tool. This is the _best_ frink'in tip I have had in the past ten years !. What a beauty. Thanks Imax
So, took a layer off the epoxy from the bottom of the fin box, and discovered some voids (which I was expecting). It was a very hot night on Sunday, and got hot quickly. I could see bubbles appearing that night. I few nights before that, I was in a puff jacket and a beany filing the box hole out.
I then bored void holes out to 4mm for syringe. Vaselined box and then packed it with plastic foam "just in case" glue goes down in to it. Mixed up the Aparency Epoxy (pictured a few posts ago), and injected. I didn't need too much. This stuff takes double the time to cure than the 105/206 West System, so, plenty of time for it to sink in. I'll monitor it's progress tonight.
The top of the board, upside down. Fingers crossed
Select to expand quote515 said..
Without heating resin the resin is thicker and harder to wet out.
Interesting you use the term 'wetting'. That term is used in electronic assembly. I suppose electronics has borrowed this term from an older profession.
There is something strange about your expanda foam .
You could just jam some styrene in there . It's not important .
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..
There is something strange about your expanda foam .
You could just jam some styrene in there . It's not important .
I think it's just too big a mass for 1part foam. It needs atmospheric moisture 7 air to cure so if its sealed off even if it's from the surounding mass of foam it will take forever to cure.
Hey JN1, I'm sure your new repositioned Tuttle box will work out. I used to love watching progress on Imax's and others board builds on this forum. You will find board builders have slightly different processes to achieve the end result
'Wetting out' was referring to laminating.
FN - ok understand different powders and the fine microballons going everywhere - need a bigger container and patience. Most my latest resin work has been on ply cat. Apart from glassing certain jobs using microfibres for strength or the wests brown fairing (like the way it mixes and easy sand). Sometimes use a mix of both.
Thanks All
The past two nights of progress (after work).
Yesterday, started working on the deck. Expanding foam in top of box is nice and hard, but it sprung a leak when I was sanding it down.
So upside down for some Naracoorte caves action again.
Working on the bottom. Sanded and removed cloth tape. Looking good (Nb/ Box packed with plasticy electronics packing foam and lots of Vaseline. This packing foam is easy to cut and shape accurately with a bread knife).
But as I was sanding, more voids. Used a blunt (dropping) needle this time.
This afternoon: Sanded the top. This is basically ready for the glass now. Expanding foam is firm.
Sanding the bottom again. More voids 
. Next time I do this, I might as well test every recess along the box by drilling a hole.
The 2 layers of 4 oz glass and squeegied. However, I balls'ed up 
. I was loosing light and rushing. I clean forgot to fill the voids before applying the glass. Oh well. I suppose it will become apparent after sanding if I need to deal with them.
I don't think voids in the top will be a huge problem, but I would have used a heavier layer there than 2X4oz.
Don't ask me why, I just would.
Select to expand quotedecrepit said..
I don't think voids in the top will be a huge problem, but I would have used a heavier layer there than 2X4oz.
Don't ask me why, I just would.
It's the bottom .
decrepit: Would more layers of 4 Oz be equivalent to a heavier grade ?
Today's effort:
Removed cloth tape, paper and sanded using home made sanding tool. This is the result. Although, I did speed things up with an orbital sander. (PS/ Contoured shape of the laid fibre with the rocker of the board).
Cut out fin box using craft knife and removed packing.
Chamfered edges of fin box with file and cleaned up the box.
The result. Very very happy with it . It's nice 'n square. As they say in Adelaide - "Like a bought'ton one"
So now, the deck.
I want to recess the fwd bolt about 10mm, because I know this bolt will touch my foot and be annoying. Any tips on how to create a well for the bolt ?
Select to expand quotejn1 said..
I want to recess the fwd bolt about 10mm, because I know this bolt will touch my foot and be annoying. Any tips on how to create a well for the bolt ?
I think dredging my memory tells me I used a spade bit to provide a recess for the fin screws. Try it at your own peril.
Select to expand quotejn1 said..
I want to recess the fwd bolt about 10mm, because I know this bolt will touch my foot and be annoying. Any tips on how to create a well for the bolt ?
Router ?
Yes, I have the big router, but I've also got a dremel router for fine work (lighter, easier to control). The only thing with that is it will be hard to eyeball/hand level it on the sloping surface of the desk - "Zipppit !.. %$#@ !" etc
I've got a 25mm spade bit in my shed that just fits inside the box, but I think I might have to use a smaller bit (20mm ?) if I do use a spade bit.
Sealing the recess can be messy if you just try and glass it. Using a bit of tubing makes it easier. You have to use you ingenuity to find an appropriate sized tube.
Select to expand quotedecrepit said..
Sealing the recess can be messy if you just try and glass it. Using a bit of tubing makes it easier. You have to use you ingenuity to find an appropriate sized tube.
Ahh, too late. I've done it. May have to use your advice tomorrow.
As per olskool's suggestion, I routed out the recesses using a dremel router using an old switch panel as a guide. Not ideal, but worked ok.
The aft recess was tricky. I had to use the bigger router and watch for the "Zippppppppppt !". No F/ups thankfully.
The result. Cleaned up recesses with craft knife.
It's getting windy outside (bullet gusts), so board indoors to do the sealing. Cut out glass for the bottom and sides of the recesses and patted with a bit of sponge. I'll see tomorrow if it has lifted off.
Then covered top with two layers of 4 Oz and squeegeed.
So, next I am thinking about the deck padding now.
I would do that same procedure again. More glass in the recesses and another two layers of 4oz over the top.
Select to expand quotejn1 said.. Ahh, too late. I've done it. May have to use your advice tomorrow.
Nah, you've done a good job there, just follow imax now.
