Just noticed a minor, 2" long by 1/2" wide delam on my board deck due to dent in that area, any advice on how to repair it? Do not want to open up deck. Thinking of using a syringe and needle to squirt in something to stabilize the deck.
Finger tip is just to upper right of delam, but not pressing down on it. Dent in deck to right of left finger is solid, see the slight shadow running at 45 degrees from left finger to above right thumb.

Below, Finger is pressing down on delam, can see slight shadow just to left of finger nail. Delam runs to the deck padding with black bottom layer.

I would hack the area out using a demolition saw . Use a fine blade . Stick it down with 3 day , off gassing , industrial glue . Something that is used in road construction. Cover with silver tape . Using weld wood , stick on a layer of plasterboard . To seal it , cover it with black gorilla tape . No need to be neat . Don't forget to paint it white so it doesn't get hot . Then , a couple half inch coach bolts through the board . Make sure the bolts are stainless so they won't rust . If you can't afford stainless , gal works , but have to be replaced every six months . If your thinking of keeping the board for more than two years , stainless is more economical . Don't for a second consider high tensile bolts , although the strongest , they will rust after one use and make the repair ugly . Don't forget to put a couple bolts through the other side to even the weight . As a bonus it will prevent the other side from delaminating. Finally cure in the bathroom for 3 days with the fan on .
Im sorry , couldn't help it .![]()
Its OK , he won't do it . He can't see this , I'm blocked .
ps: this post is for amusement only , not a recommended board fix .
Some people use a syringe and inject thickened epoxy, you will need something to plug the holes once the epoxy starts oozing out, best of luck.![]()
He's blocked everyone who knows how to fix this ??
Is that why I never see any of DLee's posts anymore?
No. I never blocked Lee but don't see posts from him. Perhaps Sandman is LeeDs alter ego. I do wonder tho why someone so knowledgable needs help from this forum...
No. I never blocked Lee but don't see posts from him. Perhaps Sandman is LeeDs alter ego. I do wonder tho why someone so knowledgable needs help from this forum...
LeeD was banned from the forum completely I believe
Sure it's not just a water tight compression that can be happily left as a little character mark? A sign you've had some good use out of the board? (Bit like the dent my wife had on her forehead?)
Is dent where is being stepped on often? No, leave it alone. Yes, monitor with attention and fix if expanding.
Sure it's not just a water tight compression that can be happily left as a little character mark? A sign you've had some good use out of the board? (Bit like the dent my wife had on her forehead?)
I also wondered what that dent was .
Yes, I use the epoxy injection method. 3 x 4mm holes (or 1 x 4mm and 2 x 2mm). You inject the middle (with the 4mm plastic syringe nozzle). The other two are tell tales. I use blue tack to contain any spills. It takes a bit of knack, but I can do it so that the tell tales are level. You can also suck the epoxy back to get the levels perfect. This method (at least for small areas) gives me good repair, with minimal intrusion, and it's a quick repair. I've been using this repair method for years now (key hole surgery !
).
Nb/ The holes will allow you to detect water in the board and allow a way to dry it out in that area.
Sure it's not just a water tight compression that can be happily left as a little character mark? A sign you've had some good use out of the board? (Bit like the dent my wife had on her forehead?)
I also wondered what that dent was .
I noticed ya mum has the same
Sure it's not just a water tight compression that can be happily left as a little character mark? A sign you've had some good use out of the board? (Bit like the dent my wife had on her forehead?)
I also wondered what that dent was .
I noticed ya mum has the same
Must be genetic.
Are you my brother ?
For the people who can see my posts: don't inject epoxy. You will make the board brittle and likely to crack if you are lucky enough to avoid thermal damage.
Instead use an expanding polyurethane which will fill the voids between EPS beads without compromising them. You might get a few more years out of the board.
I would hack the area out using a demolition saw . Use a fine blade . Stick it down with 3 day , off gassing , industrial glue . Something that is used in road construction. Cover with silver tape . Using weld wood , stick on a layer of plasterboard . To seal it , cover it with black gorilla tape . No need to be neat . Don't forget to paint it white so it doesn't get hot . Then , a couple half inch coach bolts through the board . Make sure the bolts are stainless so they won't rust . If you can't afford stainless , gal works , but have to be replaced every six months . If your thinking of keeping the board for more than two years , stainless is more economical . Don't for a second consider high tensile bolts , although the strongest , they will rust after one use and make the repair ugly . Don't forget to put a couple bolts through the other side to even the weight . As a bonus it will prevent the other side from delaminating. Finally cure in the bathroom for 3 days with the fan on .
Im sorry , couldn't help it .![]()
Its OK , he won't do it . He can't see this , I'm blocked .
ps: this post is for amusement only , not a recommended board fix .
Gave me a bloody good laugh ![]()
Leave it as it is because there are no cracks. If it soft and you often step in this area, drill a few holes in this spot and inject resin with a needle.
Injecting fast curing hard resin is bad . It is brittle and can melt foam . I use a very slow , ( cold ) curing , rubbery resin for these kind of fixes with great results .
yes like a few have said ; if you are going to inject resin into the void choose your epoxy carefully.
i did a rush repair the night before a race and it got hot ; i ended up with a big cavity that then needed part of the deck cut away and new foam glued in place to fill.
i think i was injecting west 206.
I had a Falcon slalom board go soft in the area just in front of both the front footstraps, quite a large area. I wish I had spotted it earlier before it got large. I injected it with foaming epoxy. If I had done it in warm conditions I think it would have been fine, but in 12c it didnt really foam up much. It lasted a year before I decided to get a new board. I did another repair in the nose of board, doesnt get stood on, in 20c and that foamed up a lot, and has been fine for 6 years.
Before injecting anything, read boardlady.com/injection.htm
One possible issue is that the dent may be right at the edge of a reinforced area (e.g wood under the footstrap area). If so, that will require a careful repair (full sandwich rebuilt with vacuum) if you want it to last. Anything else will be just a temporary band aid.
Injecting fast curing hard resin is bad . It is brittle and can melt foam . I use a very slow , ( cold ) curing , rubbery resin for these kind of fixes with great results .
would you recommend just drilling and filling with this sort of resin?
Also what resin do you use?
Thanks
I use Surfset Flex from Sanded Australia. When I said it's rubbery , it's still hard , just not brittle and cures without much heat . It takes half a day to gel . Although I've fixed large areas with this method with great results , it's not the proper way . For small areas like above , I think it is fine .
I've done it with 2 part PU foam and it seems to be fine. It does a pretty good job of glueing your fingers together so I imagine that's what it does between the deck laminate and EPS too.
Before injecting anything, read boardlady.com/injection.htm
Interesting viewpoint, and quite correct in that the cause of softness isnt known unless you cut into it. I guess it comes down to repair cost and the value of the board. With my Falcon I could cut it in half to see what the damage was, but it is still sailable (not saleable) and I'm keeping it as a spare. I bought a second hand full carbon board after, still in use nearly 6 years later, for the about 75% of the cost of a proper repair.
Sure it's not just a water tight compression that can be happily left as a little character mark? A sign you've had some good use out of the board? (Bit like the dent my wife had on her forehead?)
It does appear to be water tight, getting worried about my repair ability, maybe just leave it, thanks Sparky.
Leave it as it is because there are no cracks. If it soft and you often step in this area, drill a few holes in this spot and inject resin with a needle.
Do not step on it, thanks Hanstholm.
yes like a few have said ; if you are going to inject resin into the void choose your epoxy carefully.
i did a rush repair the night before a race and it got hot ; i ended up with a big cavity that then needed part of the deck cut away and new foam glued in place to fill.
i think i was injecting west 206.
Oh, good to know fjdoug, thanks.
I had a Falcon slalom board go soft in the area just in front of both the front footstraps, quite a large area. I wish I had spotted it earlier before it got large. I injected it with foaming epoxy. If I had done it in warm conditions I think it would have been fine, but in 12c it didnt really foam up much. It lasted a year before I decided to get a new board. I did another repair in the nose of board, doesnt get stood on, in 20c and that foamed up a lot, and has been fine for 6 years.
Got it, thanks PhilUK.
Injecting fast curing hard resin is bad . It is brittle and can melt foam . I use a very slow , ( cold ) curing , rubbery resin for these kind of fixes with great results .
would you recommend just drilling and filling with this sort of resin?
Also what resin do you use?
Thanks
Got it, thanks Imax1.
I've done it with 2 part PU foam and it seems to be fine. It does a pretty good job of glueing your fingers together so I imagine that's what it does between the deck laminate and EPS too.
Got it, thanks SaltySkiffies.