Surface tension is your friend when glassing over Finboxes, Mast boxes, and footstrap inserts.
??
Surface tension is your friend when glassing over Finboxes, Mast boxes, and footstrap inserts.
??
.??
Surface tension is your friend when glassing over Finboxes, Mast boxes, and footstrap inserts.
??
.??
My point is, why just say random crap that doesn't mean anything?
Everyone else in this thread posts well thought out logical steps open for discussion but LeeD just posts stupid crap that doesn't mean anything.
I don't know why he bothers
I have glasses over 170 boards.
For the 1st 5 or so, I taped over the fin box openings.
That's US box.
After that, I just avoid sqeegeing as hard near the opening, but added extra resin WHICH DID NOT SEEP INTO THE INSIDE OF THE BOX!
Still had to cut before dry cure.
Several instances, I left to surf or forgot...it fully cured, and really hard to cut, so I routered.
Then, I started making multiple boards and my memory faded [went on longer surfing trips] so I used masking tape again so I could SEE the imprint on those glass pigment opaque resins.
You glass clear epoxy.
And on the 3 or so windsurf boards, 25 odd years later, glassing clear epoxy, never taped or plugged fin boxes, mast tracks, footstrap inserts,....but DID plug air vents because that was a totally new thing.
As YOU undoubted know, you have to sand the surfaces of any plastic you install in the core to insure full adhesion with the glass/resin.
So cut somewhat carefully, depending on how much the glass/rein has cured.
Don't forget to chamfer fin and mast boxes before installing fins.
I use board wax.
But a US box for a foil???????? how are you going to stop it from rolling? Don't trust those pegs in a Chinook strong box, I've snapped them off with a wave fin.
Even better to use some silicone sealant. It will completely seal the thread forming a plug, and then it will pop out in one piece when the resin has cured. Seal, then cover with a strip of tape. When the resin is partly cured take off the tape (you might need to use a razor blade to do so). When completely cured take off the silicon plug.
Nah, I wouldn't use anything that can leave a residue like wax or silicone. It's too easy to get a little bit of it somewhere you don't realise. You will then be guaranteed of a delam.
What delam? What residue? You just put a drop of silicone into the thread. Time honored method and full proof. Otherwise just cover with tape, it will be enough if you do no vacuum bag ... certainly DO NOT use a drill to clear the epoxy that spilled into it as you suggest!!!!!!
Do not drill into metal machine screw inserts.
Do not drill with a bigger bit than diameter of hole.
Do not drill too deep.
Do not wiggle the bit as you drill.
I'm surprised you experts didn't know that resin, when applied by hand, tends to stay in the laminate and not drip into box cavities and screw holes.
Now I know how much my detractors really know.
Who would have thought of the other 3 tips?
Anyone with half a brain ![]()
Old thread and not trying to revive, just add info for future reference about what to do to glass over footstrap insert holes. What did I do? Nothing. Just glass over and when it cures you won't find any epoxy inside. For the first layer, I applied resin on the board, being careful not to go over the holes but around them. I put three layers of 4 oz glass. Let it cure and then made a hole with a small bit first and then with the same size as the hole, or just directly with the big drill bit (I didn't notice any difference between the two systems). I just finished drilling 30 holes and all of them were free of epoxy.
This was not my idea, the board lady doesn't say anything about filling the holes and the pics don't show anything either in her tutorial. It worked for me.

Aren't we all?
Not in Oz, you'd have hardly thought there was a virus over here. 52,000 in a stadium watching a match at the weekend, drinking beer with no masks.