Any tips on fixing this? Looks like the footstrap plug pulled out and took some of the deck with it (to the right). It is a 2009 futura. Don't have any local repair place so am on my own.
I'm not an expert but it looks like you should grind back all the damaged bits and route out the eps. You may need to fill it first with pour foam if there is a lot of delamination and damage. Insert a new plug with PVC foam around it and then repeat the original layup (probably 1 layer of 135gsm surfboard cloth, 2-3mm pvc or coremat, 1-2 layers of surfboard cloth and a patch of 200gsm carbon.
Unscrew the foot strap and take another photo.
We can't see the total damage.
That looks like it's a two screw arrangement, one screw has pulled out of the plug and the other plug has pulled out of the board.
It's possible you maybe able to just reglue the section that's lifted. But I doubt it especially if the other plug has pulled out.
That's what we need to see, what's happening at the other plug.
Select to expand quotedecrepit said..
Unscrew the foot strap and take another photo.
We can't see the total damage.
That looks like it's a two screw arrangement, one screw has pulled out of the plug and the other plug has pulled out of the board.
It's possible you maybe able to just reglue the section that's lifted. But I doubt it especially if the other plug has pulled out.
That's what we need to see, what's happening at the other plug.
Ditto
Starboard has a single screw with a modified washer to hold it in place. A tongue on the washer goes into the slot.
That looks like the edge of the pad has torn away, not actual board.
Select to expand quoteMr Milk said..
Starboard has a single screw with a modified washer to hold it in place. A tongue on the washer goes into the slot.
That looks like the edge of the pad has torn away, not actual board.
Look a little bit more up and right to that haha 
Now I see. Somebody else was using the outer strap position and part of the pad got lost. That damage looks bad.
Given the age of the board, no need to get fancy. Yes I'd do it properly but if you have basic skills and not really wanting to over capitalise on an old board:
Cut the pad back
Stick the busted bit of sandwich back down with epoxy and Qcell mix, making sure to bond the edges and re-bond the insert/plug in its hole.
Sand it all back
4 x 4oz cloth over about a 20cm x 20cm area, squirt of white, stick pad back on.
Thank you for the tips. I am traveling but will start taking it a part and getting a sense of it more and check back! Sounds do-able from the above to give it a try and maybe squeeze a bit more life out of it.
thank you
So naturally damage is a bit more than anticipated. A crushed portion above the footstrap in addition to the crack where the plug pulled out. Any renewed advice? Do I need to cut any of the surface out? If so how? Also I have some epoxy (in picture) and some carbon sheet left over from a boom repair. Would either work for this? If not what epoxy is needed for the 4oz glass? How do you keep epoxy out of the screw holes when glassing over?
You can use that epoxy with the carbon fiber you have or for the fiberglass. 4oz refers to the weight (thickness) so you don't need special epoxy for different fiberglass weight (at least for the glass we use to repair our boards). You don't need to cover the plugs to avoid the epoxy getting in the holes. As to what to do with that repair, someone with more experience than me will chime in
For the plug holes I use soft wax, rolled into a small rod and inserted, make sure none is on the surface of the plug as resin won't stick to it.
Carbon is great, for this job, but only trouble is, you can't see the plug holes through it. You have to remember to use something pointy to find the holes and spread the weave while resin is still wet. You can mark the board with lines that lead to the holes, to help this.
There's two ways to attack the lifted section.
1) Introduce resin underneath it and hold down with weights. I wouldn't do it this way with that damage.
2) cut damage away with a strong sharp knife, starting at end of the crack. try not to lift the existing glass.
If that is too hard, draw a curved line between the ends of the cracks, and grind the fibres down to the hard foam.
Taper the grind away from the cracks about 20mm. That will allow the new fibres to tie back in.
Then you should be able to remove the damaged sandwich. If the foam isn't too damaged you can stick the old bit back down. Probably best to decide which way you want to go. Then get back to us for more advice
If you lift the damaged bit make sure there are no loose floating pieces of foam. If that's the case it will need more work. If it's a clean separation, you can probably just stick it back down. Take more pics for the next step advice.
The compressed area will need filling anyway, and the loose plug has to come right out.
Thank you for all the tips! Given this occurred some distance from shore it must have taken in some water. Is it good to leave the vent plug in or out to promote drying?
It won;t have moved far so leave the damaged bit open for a couple days, upside down in the sun ie: damage to bottom
It doesn't look like they glassed over the plugs . Failure waiting to happen .
Tell me there is some hard foam inside there , not just glued into the EPS ?
An alternative to covering plugs with carbon, could be to fit the plugs afterwards, then glass over the plugs.
But you'd need to fill the existing plug hole first. As Imax says, hopefully there is a big block of high density closed cell foam there.
I say no carbon needed and given the age I still suggest just glue it all back down then 'too much' glass over top.
If you get resin in the holes it doesn't matter - but with care you won't anyway.... no need to drench glass.
EDIT sorry missed that you don;t have any repairers around so would have to mail order glass I guess? Just use the carbon u have
Mark, the reason I'm talking about carbon, is I assumed from this post,Select to expand quote Also I have some epoxy (in picture) and some carbon sheet left over from a boom repair.
that he doesn't have glass but he does have carbon. But as there's no actual mention of no glass, I'm probably wrong.
I think I definitely over glass,over my plugs. Can never be sure what 120 kg does to foot straps when catapulting at high speed. Including board laminations,I have five layers of 4 oz and one layer 12 oz glass . The 12 oz is only 1cm wider around the plug . How much overkill is this ?
I cant help it , I'm a box head and my boards are heavier than could be .
Never had a plug rip out 
Bloody hell its overkill.
I just do my last lam after they're routed in so they get a layer of 6oz and a layer of 4.
^^^^
Im now thinking I'm over glassing my boards . ???
Top lam,
1x4 Oz over blank.
3mm core,
2x 4 oz front to back,
1x 4 oz in font of mast box back,
1x 4 oz from back of mast box back .
Too much over strap plugs.
3x 4 oz under heel ,
1x 4oz under foot area including plugs ,
Could I save somewhere , remembering im 115 kg ?
Ive just about finished a 160 litre daily driver and it's going to be around 11.5 kg , would be nice if it was 10 .
No thats all about right. Just over the plugs is excessive.
I do all my deck with wood rear half and the heel patches etc under that so then it can be smoothed prior to the final lam of 1x6oz carbon or CK. So its not too lumpy with the thicker areas
So my last thing is plugs in, sand off smooth then the one layer of 6oz carbon or CK and 4oz glass. The plugs are bloody secure
But you will save by vacc'ing it all. A lot. You will also save by carbon on deck somewhere, as that stiffness gives buckling resistance. Glass bottom has plenty of tensile strength but to stop it folding in half you need a stiff deck. A strip of UD carbon up the middle and a one on each rail could help u lose a whole layer of glass on the deck.
That's good to know 
Il leave out the 12oz over the plugs .
But I think I have enough boards now . A small , medium , large and a speed board for my local conditions . Remind me , how many boards is too much ? I should of got a vac a couple years ago when you guys first suggested. Then it would of been 10 kg.
Even more good to know about the carbon .
There is no way my boards will buckle . I top lam half , then overlap bottom , then rest of top over edge . There is heaps on the rail .
Possibly swapping the in front of mast back , to carbon , then losing the back of mast back ? That's got to save 500 gm .?
Man $200 on ebay, use a bleeder to drop the vac (ie: induce a leak) and run it continuous (just like they say you can't) and lots of people made lots of board like that just fine :)
yes some professional setups use a bleeder, I just don't like wasting all that electricity.
If I was to re hash my 4 board quiver , I would definitely vac bag . I'm using a good slow resin , so it would be fine . I'm not a board builder , I just make my own boards . And fix stuff .
Im scared of carbon , I have a very expensive , ( at the time ) ,carbon slalom board , 132 litre , 7 kg , and it is bone jarring painful to ride . It's good , and I want to love it , but it hurts . Even trying to hang off the side it still jarres every small bump .
Select to expand quotedecrepit said..
yes some professional setups use a bleeder, I just don't like wasting all that electricity.
oh me too..... but they run bloody hot and any blockage means disaster. I now have an auto system I made and its lovely to stick it in the bag and go away overnight if need be with no worries at all. And do a couple of boards at same time etc....
Big reservoir is key.
I like the "just glue it all back down then 'too much' glass over top." idea if possible.
That seems straightforward for the lifted parts. What about the small crater in front of the plug? Do I pull that up somehow or just glass and try to finish from the top and leave depression?
when glassing on top does surface need to be treated , e.g sanded down or something?
As far as the glass vs carbon, it is true that I have some left over carbon but not glass. However I will need to order the qcel anyway so can order glass if that is better for this.
