Weight is a strange thing . I was fixing a mates board the other day with similar dimensions as my latest board . His board felt lighter , so I got out the scales . 1.3 kg difference . I can justify this extra weight to survive heavy me for years to come, ( extra deck glass , denser eps , twin screw straps and me being a backyard hack not using vac ).
It doesn't sound a lot , 10% , but handling it in the garage , back to back , the swing weight makes it feel noticeably more than the scales say .
So I really don't want to add another 1 kg in roll on paint 
Select to expand quoteMr Hooper said..mob dog said..Imax1 said..aus201 said..Mr Hooper said..Subsonic said..
Bunnings grade rattle can paint is cr!p. It never fully cures, even given ideal conditions and following the manufacturers guidelines to the letter. For little patch ups on the side of the board where you're not likely to ever hit it again is fine, but much better spending a bit more and getting something halfway decent for bigger areas or projects.
Yep !!! Bunnings is a home handyman store. If you're building a spice rack for your nanna or making a bird feeder for your back yard it's fine.
If you're looking for dedicated products go to a specialty store where you will find quality products and people that know what they're talking about.
Bunnings is similar to Harbor Freight. Never had a problem with Bunnings rattle cans. I don't use the ordinary enamels, only the epoxy ones like RustGuard and now Rustoleum, which would be familiar to our northern cousins. I've used their paint on boards and I use a lot doing motorcycle restorations.
I have wondered about rattle can , " kill Rust" , I use this on metal and is quite good and hard after a couple days . Just wasn't sure if I should use it on a windsurfer . Are we sure its safe ?
As olskool says norglass northane is super tough but not because it's hard. It cures to a perfect blend of hardness but with flexibility to be highly scratch and chip resistant, that's one reason it is commonly used over epoxy base on industrial flooring. I personally believe that it is the ultimate final finish on epoxy as long as light weight is not the main consideration as it usually ads roughly 500 to 700 grams to a 140 litre board if you do top and bottom coats x 2 and then additional clear coat mixed with flattening agent to obtain desired gloss level this is probably why no main stream board manufacturers use it cause light weight is king these days but I don't care about that, durability is king for me, I want to sail my boards hard with minimal of water time for repairs.
So an extra 1kg in paint for a 140litre board !!! For a non structural material that is massive !
Nobody said 1kg, 500 to 700gm max. The formula board above in this thread received 2 thick coats of white top and bottom, then virtually the whole deck with another coat of the tan colour then 2 further coats top and bottom of clear mixed with flattening agent and then the epoxy on the deck for the sugar grip. All this added 610 grams to be precise, slightly more than half way to a kilo and I can not feel the difference when sailing it. The durability is worth it for me.
That's still a truck load of paint !
Paint is heavy stuff designed for cars where weight doesn't matter. If a board is built well it shouldn't need paint to protect it, only to make it look pretty.
