Can 2K acrylic (automotive base coats and clear top coats) be applied by roller for painting a board. I asked at the automotive paint store, they were not all that helpful, as the conversation goes something like "what car is it for mate", then "what's a windsurfing board" etc... I was told it would be too runny for a roller. I would use short nap roller or maybe a foam roller that I use for painting furniture.
Should I just forget it and get 2K polyurethane?
Spray is out of the question, I don't have the facilities.
Me too... for next time.
I ended up using some Rustoleum lacquer paint on the bottom of my big old Go when fixing up a bunch of dings and scratches this spring, as it was "ideal for metal, plastic and fiberglass". Came out looking all right, but took a lot of work to get a relatively even coat. Chose orange mainly for the silly factor, plus it looks hysterically bad against the blue foam deck.
Do it, it works well with a short nap roller.
Don't use any thinners and you'll be fine.
^^^ +1
and be careful as cheap roller or working too slow and the solvents will dissolve the glue between fuzzy bit and spindle bushing bit so suddenly roller won't spin - drag mark on your prefect paint job
2K solvents dissolve lots of stuff that others don't
Now what do you mean by 2K acrylic system? As usually acrylic does not use a hardener (ie - 1K / single stage . single pack). Basecoats need a clear over.
So a 2K polyurethane system, whilst more toxic, is going to be less hassle and more duable.
Select to expand quoteMr Hooper said..
Do it, it works well with a short nap roller.
Don't use any thinners and you'll be fine.
Thanks, I just did one board that I repaired the badly damaged deck and repainted with the 1K paint, vinyl graphics with my own scheme. Looked really good.
I have two more to do, so I thought I would try 2K. I post pics when I finish.Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
Now what do you mean by 2K acrylic system?
Automotive base and clear coats. I need the clear coat anyway for the deck grip.
Previously I have done 1K and clear UV resistant epoxy from for the deck grip.
OK there are lots of 2K systems and the best are polyurethanes (durable)
Some are acrylic 2K, and have urethane in them at varying amounts.
However when you talk to car people you have to be careful as they say "acrylic" and mean 1K lacquer based systems people commonly painted their car in 20yrs ago. When they say 2 pack they mean a predominantly urethane based paint.
If its industrial product, their 2K is usually all urethane.
If you try to buy acrylic at art store or Bunnings its water based rubbish. Even had a Bunnings bloke once tell me I was an idiot when I asked for a lacquer based (solvent based etc) acrylic - as there is no such thing apparently
That's why I asked, if you were at a car joint and said acrylic you'd almost always get pointed to a 1K product and at other places they'd show u house paint.
Anyyyway if doing solid colours, clear over base is too much work. Its only advantage is in making cars look nice.
In 2K I use Wattyl Colourthane or Nason as they can make almost any colour and are exceedingly durable. Also no reactions with either when sprayed over 1K primers (properly dried of course)
Sorry for the numpty question but I'm unfamiliar with the references to 2K/ 1K in regards to paint?
Anyone help me out?
Bloody germans are to blame here I believe
1 Komponent 2Komponent
2K has a hardener - usually means enormous durability increase and very toxic......
Sometimes wattyl and dulux can be hard to source in small quantities for diy.
Northane is what i use. Can buy small amount.
Im looking into using aquacote topcoat on my next board as it's less toxic. Also has a grip additive. Still investigating. Its suitability.
By rights with all of these products you are meant to use a primer. None of us do though because primarily we are doing what surfboard shapers have done for years which is based on clear finishes.
Go to your local boat yard and they will suggest a primer as thats what they do on boats.
Either way you need more than one coat to satisfy the manufacturers recommendations for the best uv protection and strength.
Of course the other choice is epoxy paint if you are doimg solid colours without clear coat.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
Bloody germans are to blame here I believe
1 Komponent 2Komponent
2K has a hardener - usually means enormous durability increase and very toxic......
Thanks, I knew it had to be something to do with single pack or 2 pack but couldn't make the connection... 
Many years ago i used 2K with a roller, it dried with a slight orange peel look, you can also buy 2K in a rattle can from auto paint shops. Fumes are pretty bad and I believe are toxic.
In the US I have never seen paint described as 1K or 2K at HD and the like. There are lacquer spray can paints that dry after the toxic solvent evaporates, and enamel spray can paints that have toxic solvents to suspend the paint and then evaporate leaving the paint to cure and that involves the slow migration of oxygen into the paint and subsequent cross-linking which makes the paint very hard.
Then there are water based acrylic paints which work good for small ding repairs as long as the ding area is not being walked on, and dry fast. The spray can acrylic paints with solvent are not for outdoor use from what I have seen.
Read you do not want to top coat an uncured enamel paint with an acrylic paint, since the acrylic paint will dry fast and seal off the enamel paint so that oxygen can got migrate into it, and then it never fully cures.
Select to expand quoteR1DER said..
Many years ago i used 2K with a roller, it dried with a slight orange peel look, you can also buy 2K in a rattle can from auto paint shops. Fumes are pretty bad and I believe are toxic.
For the orange peel problem ,that's when you do add a tiny bit of thinners. It helps it self level.
It's common for boat repairers to roll on 2 pack when they're in marinas where you're not allowed to spray. Ive seen some jobs come out as good as a spray job.
Select to expand quoteSandman1221 said..
In the US I have never seen paint described as 1K or 2K at HD and the like.
You won't find 2 pack at Home Depot.
I believe it is the equivalent of our "Bunnings" where you also won't find anything that is truly quality or useful for a tradesman.
Bunnings grade rattle can paint is cr!p. It never fully cures, even given ideal conditions and following the manufacturers guidelines to the letter. For little patch ups on the side of the board where you're not likely to ever hit it again is fine, but much better spending a bit more and getting something halfway decent for bigger areas or projects.
Select to expand quoteSubsonic said..
Bunnings grade rattle can paint is cr!p. It never fully cures, even given ideal conditions and following the manufacturers guidelines to the letter. For little patch ups on the side of the board where you're not likely to ever hit it again is fine, but much better spending a bit more and getting something halfway decent for bigger areas or projects.
Yep !!! Bunnings is a home handyman store. If you're building a spice rack for your nanna or making a bird feeder for your back yard it's fine.
If you're looking for dedicated products go to a specialty store where you will find quality products and people that know what they're talking about.
This board was re done using norglass 2 part poly urethane with 4mm nap microfibre rollers.Was fairly easy to mix and obtain desired gloss level by adding norglass flattening agent. Much safer to apply this product with a roller than spray but beware the fumes are still highly toxic and investment in a proper carbon filter mask is a must.
Hi Gestalt , guys . Where would I get that stuff from on the Sunshine Coast ?
I would like to do this to my board bottoms to leave it sunny side up on the beach . My boards get hot because I tint the resin to get colour and it lets heat in . Also it hides imperfections so I don't have to be so anal.
Select to expand quoteMr Hooper said..Subsonic said..
Bunnings grade rattle can paint is cr!p. It never fully cures, even given ideal conditions and following the manufacturers guidelines to the letter. For little patch ups on the side of the board where you're not likely to ever hit it again is fine, but much better spending a bit more and getting something halfway decent for bigger areas or projects.
Yep !!! Bunnings is a home handyman store. If you're building a spice rack for your nanna or making a bird feeder for your back yard it's fine.
If you're looking for dedicated products go to a specialty store where you will find quality products and people that know what they're talking about.
Bunnings is similar to Harbor Freight. Never had a problem with Bunnings rattle cans. I don't use the ordinary enamels, only the epoxy ones like RustGuard and now Rustoleum, which would be familiar to our northern cousins. I've used their paint on boards and I use a lot doing motorcycle restorations.
Select to expand quoteaus201 said..Mr Hooper said..Subsonic said..
Bunnings grade rattle can paint is cr!p. It never fully cures, even given ideal conditions and following the manufacturers guidelines to the letter. For little patch ups on the side of the board where you're not likely to ever hit it again is fine, but much better spending a bit more and getting something halfway decent for bigger areas or projects.
Yep !!! Bunnings is a home handyman store. If you're building a spice rack for your nanna or making a bird feeder for your back yard it's fine.
If you're looking for dedicated products go to a specialty store where you will find quality products and people that know what they're talking about.
Bunnings is similar to Harbor Freight. Never had a problem with Bunnings rattle cans. I don't use the ordinary enamels, only the epoxy ones like RustGuard and now Rustoleum, which would be familiar to our northern cousins. I've used their paint on boards and I use a lot doing motorcycle restorations.
I have wondered about rattle can , " kill Rust" , I use this on metal and is quite good and hard after a couple days . Just wasn't sure if I should use it on a windsurfer . Are we sure its safe ?
I basically give any paints, glues or resins a miss from Bunnings. None of it is good enough quality for board building and repairs. I never use enamel either, it's just not the right stuff for boards.
I only use rattle cans for very basic colours. I've found the Anchor brand cans to be pretty reliable.
Everything else I'll mix myself and use spray guns. It's much easier to get a decent match and good quality job, and way cheaper !
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..aus201 said..Mr Hooper said..Subsonic said..
Bunnings grade rattle can paint is cr!p. It never fully cures, even given ideal conditions and following the manufacturers guidelines to the letter. For little patch ups on the side of the board where you're not likely to ever hit it again is fine, but much better spending a bit more and getting something halfway decent for bigger areas or projects.
Yep !!! Bunnings is a home handyman store. If you're building a spice rack for your nanna or making a bird feeder for your back yard it's fine.
If you're looking for dedicated products go to a specialty store where you will find quality products and people that know what they're talking about.
Bunnings is similar to Harbor Freight. Never had a problem with Bunnings rattle cans. I don't use the ordinary enamels, only the epoxy ones like RustGuard and now Rustoleum, which would be familiar to our northern cousins. I've used their paint on boards and I use a lot doing motorcycle restorations.
I have wondered about rattle can , " kill Rust" , I use this on metal and is quite good and hard after a couple days . Just wasn't sure if I should use it on a windsurfer . Are we sure its safe ?
As olskool says norglass northane is super tough but not because it's hard. It cures to a perfect blend of hardness but with flexibility to be highly scratch and chip resistant, that's one reason it is commonly used over epoxy base on industrial flooring. I personally believe that it is the ultimate final finish on epoxy as long as light weight is not the main consideration as it usually ads roughly 500 to 700 grams to a 140 litre board if you do top and bottom coats x 2 and then additional clear coat mixed with flattening agent to obtain desired gloss level this is probably why no main stream board manufacturers use it cause light weight is king these days but I don't care about that, durability is king for me, I want to sail my boards hard with minimal of water time for repairs.
Select to expand quotemob dog said..Imax1 said..aus201 said..Mr Hooper said..Subsonic said..
Bunnings grade rattle can paint is cr!p. It never fully cures, even given ideal conditions and following the manufacturers guidelines to the letter. For little patch ups on the side of the board where you're not likely to ever hit it again is fine, but much better spending a bit more and getting something halfway decent for bigger areas or projects.
Yep !!! Bunnings is a home handyman store. If you're building a spice rack for your nanna or making a bird feeder for your back yard it's fine.
If you're looking for dedicated products go to a specialty store where you will find quality products and people that know what they're talking about.
Bunnings is similar to Harbor Freight. Never had a problem with Bunnings rattle cans. I don't use the ordinary enamels, only the epoxy ones like RustGuard and now Rustoleum, which would be familiar to our northern cousins. I've used their paint on boards and I use a lot doing motorcycle restorations.
I have wondered about rattle can , " kill Rust" , I use this on metal and is quite good and hard after a couple days . Just wasn't sure if I should use it on a windsurfer . Are we sure its safe ?
As olskool says norglass northane is super tough but not because it's hard. It cures to a perfect blend of hardness but with flexibility to be highly scratch and chip resistant, that's one reason it is commonly used over epoxy base on industrial flooring. I personally believe that it is the ultimate final finish on epoxy as long as light weight is not the main consideration as it usually ads roughly 500 to 700 grams to a 140 litre board if you do top and bottom coats x 2 and then additional clear coat mixed with flattening agent to obtain desired gloss level this is probably why no main stream board manufacturers use it cause light weight is king these days but I don't care about that, durability is king for me, I want to sail my boards hard with minimal of water time for repairs.
So an extra 1kg in paint for a 140litre board !!! For a non structural material that is massive !
i managed to do 2 coats on a 135lt board at about 300 grams. but that did feel a little thin when sanding.
