Select to expand quoteIndecentExposur said..
I, like you, started with the GT and ended up building new inventory to literally build a new foil set.
I have the GT & Race (ish) setups. Here's my inventory:
MAST: 85cm & 110cm
FUSE: 75cm & 115cm
WING: 800 & 1100
STAB: 255 & 330
I've ridden most combinations above (let's not consider the mast for below recommendations)
FUSE: 115 (Awesome stability)
--Best light wind: 1100wing & 255stab (best light wind combo. I can lift with my SS 86 counterparts in the same wind)
--Best speed: 800wing & 255stab (have to put the mast track forward, but this does go faster)
--Not good (Works): 1100wing & 330stab (Too much pitch resistance, or overly stable. I damn near have to run to the front of the board to pitch it down. I need to do more testing in light winds)
--Bad: Any front wing & the 500 stab (someone in the bay area tried this and bent their fuse)
FUSE: 75 (sensitive stability) - much harder to learn on
--Best light wind: 1100wing & 330stab (works well, twitchy, but great for jumping and freestyle stuff) I use my 85cm mast on this mostly
--Best speed: 800wing & 255stab (Original GTR)
MASTS:
--110cm (Love this because you can go fast or slow and deal with gusts easily. Lots of room to maneuver and be sloppy without landing or breaching. It does take a little more rear foot pressure/power to lift. This also works best in larger waves when trying to blast so you won't breach or touch down)
--85cm (I used this for colder months (don't have to go too far into the water) mostly. I also like this paired with the GT setup (800w/255s/75cm Fuse) for fast freestyle maneuverability, jumping, etc)
So, based on what you asked:
Get a 1100 wing. The 1000 isn't all that much of an upgrade, why not just get the 1100? provides maxim lift in lighter winds. My speed differential between the 800 and 1100 isn't all that different (maybe a few knots?). But the 1100 will lift faster/earlier than the 1000 and there isn't much difference in speed trade offs. Make a super light wind kit with this one.
Also get a 255 stab. If you want a little more pitch input on the 1100, it can help. I've not tried that combo with a 95cm fuse. Buy the 1100 first, and see how the pitch stability is. It might work well if paired with the 330 stab.
Other options down the road: the 115cm fuse is lots of fun. But if you're dealing with hitting waves/breaching in troughs, get a longer Mast.
Hey - which version of the 115 fuse are you using?
Im thinking of getting a 115 cm fuse for my 1100/255-2 wings. I know the ++ moves the front wing forward.
There is the 115, the 115+, and the 115++. Each plus moves the wing further forward. Be sure to know your overall geometry of board, footstraps, and mast base so that you can balance it.
Which 115 to choose is mostly a function of sail size and whether you are going for maximum VMG up/down wind.
Just posting a couple more pics now that I have seen the 95+ fuse.
Its interesting that the 95+ and 115 have almost the same forward wing position. It would be reasonably easy to convert an old 115 into a 95+
Select to expand quoteche66er said..
The SB GTR+ comes standardwise with a 800 wing, a 330 stab and 95+ fuse. I had many sessions in like 11-20 knots with sails 4,7, 5,7 and a 7.0 foil sail. All on the SB 125 freeride board.
Now i ask myself, how to upgrade the wings as budgetfriendly as possible (that means change 1 wing rather than 2, front and rear). What SB wing combinations work, which don't? Especially I'm interested to sail in a even lower windrage than 11 knots.
Does for example 1000/330/95+ work? Or do I have to change rear wing to?
Just to open the discussion - starting from the SB gtr+ kit. Feel free to write your experiences with other wing upgrades that work, doesn't matter if its to be faster or for stronger winds - whatever. I'm interested, others might be too.
Hi - I have sailed all season with the 95+ fuse with the 1100 Freeride front wing and the 330 rear wing. (I'm using the 95cm carbon mast).
I think this is a great combination on my SB 150L Freeride foilboard. I cruise with roughly 17-19 knots and when I push hard I get to 20-22 knots.
Select to expand quoteFoiler69er said..che66er said..
The SB GTR+ comes standardwise with a 800 wing, a 330 stab and 95+ fuse. I had many sessions in like 11-20 knots with sails 4,7, 5,7 and a 7.0 foil sail. All on the SB 125 freeride board.
Now i ask myself, how to upgrade the wings as budgetfriendly as possible (that means change 1 wing rather than 2, front and rear). What SB wing combinations work, which don't? Especially I'm interested to sail in a even lower windrage than 11 knots.
Does for example 1000/330/95+ work? Or do I have to change rear wing to?
Just to open the discussion - starting from the SB gtr+ kit. Feel free to write your experiences with other wing upgrades that work, doesn't matter if its to be faster or for stronger winds - whatever. I'm interested, others might be too.
Hi - I have sailed all season with the 95+ fuse with the 1100 Freeride front wing and the 330 rear wing. (I'm using the 95cm carbon mast).
I think this is a great combination on my SB 150L Freeride foilboard. I cruise with roughly 17-19 knots and when I push hard I get to 20-22 knots.
I'd say thats a good speed for the 1100! My cruising speed is with the 800/95+/330 setup is maybe 1-2 knots more. I guess there is more potential with full commitment.
I will be back on water in 2 months as it is getting a bit warmer. Hopefully i can test and compare also the 1100 for lighter winds.
Select to expand quotetbwonder said..
Just posting a couple more pics now that I have seen the 95+ fuse.
Its interesting that the 95+ and 115 have almost the same forward wing position. It would be reasonably easy to convert an old 115 into a 95+
Hi, Am about to cut my 115 fuse to make a 95+. So I am guessing cutting to 95 length and reshaping a saddle to accomodate a shim. I see on some pictures that the + fuselages have a step in the stab saddle. Does anyone know if this to make some extra thickness for the threads or to add stability to the shim/stab assembly? This add complexity to machine the saddle without a milling machine and am wondering if I can get away by machining a flat saddle like the original fuse..Since my shortened de 115 will be thicker at that spot there should be enough meat to make some decent threads..Does anyone have any experience doing that mod? Much appreciated.
Select to expand quoteFoiler69er said..IndecentExposur said..
I, like you, started with the GT and ended up building new inventory to literally build a new foil set.
I have the GT & Race (ish) setups. Here's my inventory:
MAST: 85cm & 110cm
FUSE: 75cm & 115cm
WING: 800 & 1100
STAB: 255 & 330
I've ridden most combinations above (let's not consider the mast for below recommendations)
FUSE: 115 (Awesome stability)
--Best light wind: 1100wing & 255stab (best light wind combo. I can lift with my SS 86 counterparts in the same wind)
--Best speed: 800wing & 255stab (have to put the mast track forward, but this does go faster)
--Not good (Works): 1100wing & 330stab (Too much pitch resistance, or overly stable. I damn near have to run to the front of the board to pitch it down. I need to do more testing in light winds)
--Bad: Any front wing & the 500 stab (someone in the bay area tried this and bent their fuse)
FUSE: 75 (sensitive stability) - much harder to learn on
--Best light wind: 1100wing & 330stab (works well, twitchy, but great for jumping and freestyle stuff) I use my 85cm mast on this mostly
--Best speed: 800wing & 255stab (Original GTR)
MASTS:
--110cm (Love this because you can go fast or slow and deal with gusts easily. Lots of room to maneuver and be sloppy without landing or breaching. It does take a little more rear foot pressure/power to lift. This also works best in larger waves when trying to blast so you won't breach or touch down)
--85cm (I used this for colder months (don't have to go too far into the water) mostly. I also like this paired with the GT setup (800w/255s/75cm Fuse) for fast freestyle maneuverability, jumping, etc)
So, based on what you asked:
Get a 1100 wing. The 1000 isn't all that much of an upgrade, why not just get the 1100? provides maxim lift in lighter winds. My speed differential between the 800 and 1100 isn't all that different (maybe a few knots?). But the 1100 will lift faster/earlier than the 1000 and there isn't much difference in speed trade offs. Make a super light wind kit with this one.
Also get a 255 stab. If you want a little more pitch input on the 1100, it can help. I've not tried that combo with a 95cm fuse. Buy the 1100 first, and see how the pitch stability is. It might work well if paired with the 330 stab.
Other options down the road: the 115cm fuse is lots of fun. But if you're dealing with hitting waves/breaching in troughs, get a longer Mast.
Hey - which version of the 115 fuse are you using?
Im thinking of getting a 115 cm fuse for my 1100/255-2 wings. I know the ++ moves the front wing forward.
Sorry for the long delay. I'm using the original 115 fuse. Although I'm thinking of upgrading to a + version for the hell of it.
Coming back to this thread, as foil season begins here again for me. I might have the opportunity to get a 255 -2 tail wing.
As stated from some of you, 255 works well with 800/900 and 95+ fuse. Will the 255 -2 tailwing be too much downward angle for 95+ fuse? Rather go with normal 255? Am I right? cheers
Select to expand quoteche66er said..
Coming back to this thread, as foil season begins here again for me. I might have the opportunity to get a 255 -2 tail wing.
As stated from some of you, 255 works well with 800/900 and 95+ fuse. Will the 255 -2 tailwing be too much downward angle for 95+ fuse? Rather go with normal 255? Am I right? cheers
Wait what shim are you using now? Really new to starboard foils but are you looking to go all the way to -4? The iqfoil set has 95+ and 115+with shims from +1 to -2 and a 255 (-2deg) wing. All that wing seems to get you is more negative angle if you don't already have something like a -4 shim?
And -4 shim or a -2 rear and -2 shim would be more for all out speed unless I'm misunderstanding something.
+1 shim or 0 shim.
I guess the - shims (-2,-1.5,-1,-0.5) are too much minus in total. Thats why im sceptical 
With my similar setup, I'm typically using -1 shim... so if you purchased a -2 wing you'd have to run the +1 shim to have the same character.
I have never felt the need to run a -2 shim.
The advantage of having the -2 wing
when you're on the 115+ You can carry on reducing the tw lift rather than bottoming out with the standard tw.
reducing tw angle when you're on the slalom fuselage and small wings, as your potential speed is so much greater
in my mind if you're not planning to go foiling with either of these, just go for the standard tw.
Select to expand quoteche66er said..
+1 shim or 0 shim.
I guess the - shims (-2,-1.5,-1,-0.5) are too much minus in total. Thats why im sceptical
May want to try the -2 shim just for grins. So far everyone with 115+ recommends the zero with the 255 (-2deg) rear, which would make getting that extra rear redundant for you.
May fool around later and get smaller front wing with the thin rear and 115 double plus for high speed shennanigans but I'm not good enough yet. That seems to be the only reason to get a different rear wing imho
Select to expand quotetbwonder said..
Just posting a couple more pics now that I have seen the 95+ fuse.
Its interesting that the 95+ and 115 have almost the same forward wing position. It would be reasonably easy to convert an old 115 into a 95+
Useful info. Will the 1100/330 combo work with a 95 fuse or is a 95+ really needed to avoid being too back footed?
using mainly 7/7.8m sails
