Hi,
Am thinking of getting the new smaller front wing (the current one is 1400). There's not much info over here in the UK and was wondering whether anybody had used one yet. I'm interested in how it compares to the existing larger front wing.
Many thanks.
Had the chance to test the 1000 with an Alien 115 and my 5.2 foilfreek at the Engadinwind. It gets up easy but felt harder to jibe than the 1400 or my SAB W950. It was about 15 to 20 knots (1800m high!). For more wind i think its a good choice
400 says isn't too big a jump.
I jump from 1220 to 600, and it barely takes a knot more wind and 2 more pumps.
I've also got a Redwing 1400 and was wondering about the 1000. I have a Starboard X145 with a SailWorks Flyer 6.0 and sail on a gusty lake. I am looking for the best light wind combo, sticking with small rig. I have borrowed a Supercruiser 1800 to try but am also thinking whether a smaller high aspect foil would be better - pump and glide. Would be great to hear people's thoughts and experiences with similar kit in similar conditions.
Gusty and flat, HA all the way but you'll need to work for it. Ie: pumping to get going and maintaining speed into the lulls.
Select to expand quotePatK said..
Had the chance to test the 1000 with an Alien 115 and my 5.2 foilfreek at the Engadinwind. It gets up easy but felt harder to jibe than the 1400 or my SAB W950. It was about 15 to 20 knots (1800m high!). For more wind i think its a good choice
Is there a smaller wing again? I thought I saw a picture somewhere of another shape.
Did you notice much difference in speed? I find with the 1400 wing the windier it gets I just go to a smaller sail, it always seems manageable. I'm interested in a smaller front wing to go faster sometimes.
A smaller wing from serverne? I only know the 1000, 1400 and 1800.
The 1000 is significant faster than the 1400. My focus was on the board. So i cannot say much more about the foil, sorry. I am now looking for a smaller Moses/SAB Frontwing. 1100cm2 will do it for me
Has anyone else tried the 1000 front wing? Keen to know what the bottom end range of this wing is compared with the 1400 wing. Area alone is not a good descriptor of a wing. AR, thickness, anhedral all play a noticable part.
Select to expand quotePatK said..
A smaller wing from serverne? I only know the 1000, 1400 and 1800.
The 1000 is significant faster than the 1400. My focus was on the board. So i cannot say much more about the foil, sorry. I am now looking for a smaller Moses/SAB Frontwing. 1100cm2 will do it for me
Is the Severne foil razor sharp like the Moses foil?
Select to expand quoteFaff said..
Is the Severne foil razor sharp like the Moses foil?
No, its not sharp at all. (have tested kicking it with both feet 
)
The Severne front and rear wings have downward oriented tips. This makes them less dangerous.
Hey PatK, the Moses 940 has a surface area of 1100 while retaining a high aspect ratio. It is basically a downsized 950. I have one but have not tried it yet. 17F here today.
If you get it, please let us know how it is.
Hey segler,
I was able to get a rarely used 940, but also not tried yet. Will try first with my 450 stab with plus shim. If it is not good i plan to buy a 425 stab.
If YOU get to the water please tell us 
Does someone have the specs of these wings? Especially interested in the thickness and span.
What i can identify from my photos:
Area Span Chord
Front
1000 720 180
1400 760 250 10.8% thick
1800 800? 260?
Rear
250 440 85
350 480 85
Fuse 950
Some good pictures can be found here
www.severne-by-ocean-essentials.com/products/severne-red-wing
Couple guys here at Berkeley use the 940 as their only foil on 75-85 liter boards.
95% foiling jibes, 50% foiling tacks, effective 11-30 knots with 3 wings.
Hi PatK. Yes, let us know how you fare with the SAB 940. I won't get on mine until April. Snow and cold here now, and I don't take my SAB stuff to Florida when we snowbird there (I use AFS-2 and i76 there).
By way of comparison I shim my SAB 450 (900 fuse) as follows: 950 -0.5?, 720 -1.0?, 940 don't know yet, probably -0.5? to start. For my 425 race stab with the 900 race wing (on the 1100 fuse) I shim also to -0.5?. I shim these negative numbers because I do not like to foil front-foot-heavy. It is too easy to breach in the usual gusts we get in the gorge.
Here in switzerland also snow and minus temperatures. Hopefully i can get out in march to try.
I have shimmed the 950 always with +1 deg for less lift. It feels much better then with no shim. The 900 fuse has a stab incidence of -1.5, with the +1 from the shim it is -0.5 totally. SAB offers only - shims, so i built my own +.
How is it with the red wing? Do not see any shims in that kit.
Just received my 1800 and 1000 front wings. Will provide feedback once I have tried them out. Hoping to sail this evening if wind comes in.
had it for a couple of months, used with 125 starboard freeride
the 1400 is covered with dust now !
pros
*same easy take off as the 1400
*better upwind (easier to give angle, doesn't auto correct like the 1400)
*incredible jibe !!! I nail them all !! (which I don't with my starboard race set up) , it stays in flight at really low speed and re accelerates on exit like a breeze
* great carving too and swell surfing
to be honest I love it !!
cons
paint finish on wings chips easily, the M8 bolts are a great idea, you do have to enlarge your fin box holes though
I lent it to a mate who's on race gear , he loved it, came to the beach saying "I wonder why we get to all the trouble of race setups when this thing is so secure and so much fun !"
really don't see the need for shims on the rear wing
Select to expand quoteseanhogan said..
had it for a couple of months, used with 125 starboard freeride
the 1400 is covered with dust now !
pros
*same easy take off as the 1400
*better upwind (easier to give angle, doesn't auto correct like the 1400)
*incredible jibe !!! I nail them all !! (which I don't with my starboard race set up) , it stays in flight at really low speed and re accelerates on exit like a breeze
* great carving too and swell surfing
to be honest I love it !!
cons
paint finish on wings chips easily, the M8 bolts are a great idea, you do have to enlarge your fin box holes though
I lent it to a mate who's on race gear , he loved it, came to the beach saying "I wonder why we get to all the trouble of race setups when this thing is so secure and so much fun !"
really don't see the need for shims on the rear wing
And the mast head has a flange. (I wish Severne offered alternative heads like NP does).
Select to expand quoteseanhogan said..
really don't see the need for shims on the rear wing
This depends on your weight and wind conditions. Or if you have a board with footstrap plugs not in optimum position for this foil. And you have no tracks 
A friend ordered a Severne Alien board and now he thinks about to change to red wing for full benefit of best trim.
Naming convention.
PatK wrote, "I have shimmed the 950 always with +1 deg for less lift."
The naming convention for shims, as I understand it, means a +1 degree shim makes for MORE lift since it INCREASES the stab down angle relative to the fuse and front wing. I know this is what I get from Sailworks where I buy my foil gear. Foilers in Seattle, who shim mostly Starboard with + and ++ fuses, also go by this convention.
My shims, provided by Sailworks, are all negative, which DECREASES the stab down angle to make LESS lift. This then lets me control the lift more with my back foot. A negative shim for SABfoil is thicker in the back than the front. Since a SABfoil stab is mounted to the underside of the fuse, a thicker shim at the back DECREASES the stab's down angle relative to the fuse and front wing. Such a shim is labeled with a negative number by Sailworks.
If the stab is mounted on the top side of the fuse, the shimming thickness profile is reversed. Such is the case with LP.
Moses/SAB says their fuses have minus incidence angle for the stab. The 900 has -1.5 deg:
sabfoil.com/en/products/Fuselage-900-High-Strength#datasheet
They are selling a set with shims, they are all minus:
SHIMS -0,5/-1/-1,5/-2/-2,5/-3
With my Moses 790 kit i got two 3d printed gray unlabeled shims, both increase the lift, so i think they are minus too like the one in the set. For me it is much more logical to count the angle as the sum of the built-in value with the shim. E.g. -1.5 of the fuse and -1 of the shim ends in -2.5 deg. This makes more lift. To reduce the lift i add a plus angle, e.g. -1.5 of the fuse and +1 of my self-made shim ends in -0.5 deg. This is easy to calculate and not confusing. For me it is important to know what the built-in angle is, so i can imagine what happens when i deal with a shim.
But this is very off topic. This has nothing to do with "Severne redwing small front wing" 
Cheers Patrick
Select to expand quotesegler said..
Naming convention.
PatK wrote, "I have shimmed the 950 always with +1 deg for less lift."
The naming convention for shims, as I understand it, means a +1 degree shim makes for MORE lift since it INCREASES the stab down angle relative to the fuse and front wing. I know this is what I get from Sailworks where I buy my foil gear. Foilers in Seattle, who shim mostly Starboard with + and ++ fuses, also go by this convention.
My shims, provided by Sailworks, are all negative, which DECREASES the stab down angle to make LESS lift. This then lets me control the lift more with my back foot. A negative shim for SABfoil is thicker in the back than the front. Since a SABfoil stab is mounted to the underside of the fuse, a thicker shim at the back DECREASES the stab's down angle relative to the fuse and front wing. Such a shim is labeled with a negative number by Sailworks.
If the stab is mounted on the top side of the fuse, the shimming thickness profile is reversed. Such is the case with LP.
Un-shimmed stabilisers have a negative angle of attack according to this definition of a positive(?) angle of attack. From then on it's just arithmetic.
I suppose rather than going with the up = positive, down = negative convention you could take into account the curvature of the foil, but that would lead to ambiguities when describing the angle of symmetrical foils.
I'm riding a Severne Redwing 1400 cm2 with an Alien 115 l, and I am wondering at what wind strength and sail size other foilers are choosing to change down to the 1000 cm2 front wing and is that extending your wind range?
Select to expand quoteseanhogan said..
had it for a couple of months, used with 125 starboard freeride
the 1400 is covered with dust now !
pros
*same easy take off as the 1400
*better upwind (easier to give angle, doesn't auto correct like the 1400)
*incredible jibe !!! I nail them all !! (which I don't with my starboard race set up) , it stays in flight at really low speed and re accelerates on exit like a breeze
* great carving too and swell surfing
to be honest I love it !!
cons
paint finish on wings chips easily, the M8 bolts are a great idea, you do have to enlarge your fin box holes though
I lent it to a mate who's on race gear , he loved it, came to the beach saying "I wonder why we get to all the trouble of race setups when this thing is so secure and so much fun !"
really don't see the need for shims on the rear wing
I had my first ride with the Redwing 1000 front yesterday and I fully agree with all the pros stated by Seanhogan it is spot on :-)The main differences in comparison with the 1400 is considerably better upwind characteristics and better top speed and top speed control.My setup was JP Hydrofoil LXT 133 and Phantom Iris X mk2 7.0. The wind was 15-16 knots and chubby water. I haven't got the 250 stab yet so it was the 350.The mast feels pretty solid when flying high.I rake my mast 2.0 dgr in order to get softer touch downs and avoid catapults - I strongly recommend this!
