Pretty cool looking SV prototype, but probably not really what I have in mind. I really like the parallel rails on the Alien, even with 4.0 in 20kts+, I'm usually getting all the way out on the rail when I'm cooking upwind. Definitely would need to try before buy, as it might just be a technique adjustment required.
Select to expand quoteWhiteofHeart said..NicoDC said..DarrylG said..swoosh said..
I think for serious foilstylers, they may just end up with slightly shorter freestyle boards, with a foil compatible box. Kind of like the Fanatic Foilstyler, or a lot of the current FS boards from the big brands come foil ready. Just because it's a familiar shape for the high level freestylers.
For more average punters, who probably more want a "FSW or Supercross" style board, for carving tricks, and some less technical jumps (nothing switch stance etc), which I'd count myself part of, I'd like my next board to be a cross between the Slingshot Wizard 90 & 114, and the Severne Alien 105. Or maybe just the MB Pegusus. I'm thinking similar to NicoDC:
- 105L or so board, 150-180 long x 60-65 wide. I'm 80kg, I'd like the volume for easy slogging, and the short length for easy storage.
- DT + US Box options. For my I'm leaning towards racier foils as in my opinion they are superior for all aspects of foiling I'm interested in, including light wind. Once you develop the pumping ability, I think something relatively high aspect around 900cm2 front wing is perfect foil size for someone my weight from 10-25kts as a single wing solution.
- The bottom shape of the Alien, it's super forgiving, and I don't think its necessary to go super silly with the cutouts like the slingshot. I like the rocker and the big bevels. I actually question realistically if the rear cutouts are necessary at all.
- More deck pad and single rear strap option like the Wizards.
I think I prefer the wide square tail of these boards (for the reasons mentioned above for easy of cranking upwind), tho the MB Pegasus carries all of its width to the front of the rear footstrap, so may be the best option of the lot, as it basically ticks all the boxes except for carrying the tail width all the way to the back. But watching how Balz sails it, he seems to sail rear foot out of the straps fairly often. I generally find when I really want to get the foil loose and crank upwind, having my back foot right on the rail is key.
Maybe you should talk to Severne again. I have seen a new foil board but don't know when being released
Maybe be similar to below ????
How is that "wide frontstraps & single backstrap" setting working for you? Isn't it kind of unnatural to keep yout balance that way? Do you have to bend your front leg once powered up or can you remain upright?
I have the wide front single backstrap too, but I'm not in the backstrap unless powering up for a jump. It doesnt feel unnatural to me, except that the distance between the front and backstraps is a little off (too long) because of how triangles work ;). I haven't yet tried centered frontstraps tho and having my foilboard modified soon for that purpose.
Looking forward to hear your impressions!
After some time googling, I have to conclude there aren't many foils suited to freefoil(-wave). Most are general freeriders (targeting beginners) or freerace and slalom. A freeridefoil might be nice for some carving tricks, but if they are beginner orientated I'm sure they'll get boring pretty quickly and not be fit/ strong enough for jumping. Are there any foils you would comfortably recommend for carving and small jumps with an ok speed?
Select to expand quoteNicoDC said..
After some time googling, I have to conclude there aren't many foils suited to freefoil(-wave). Most are general freeriders (targeting beginners) or freerace and slalom. A freeridefoil might be nice for some carving tricks, but if they are beginner orientated I'm sure they'll get boring pretty quickly and not be fit/ strong enough for jumping. Are there any foils you would comfortably recommend for carving and small jumps with an ok speed?
My own foil: F-one Levo 900 Carbon, super stable, ok for carving tricks (but granted, not the best), fast, and designed to be jumped.
Hy, I pop in this topic as I am using a personal custom foilboard I made last year (during first France Lock Down 
).
So I am just a regular froggy foil FreeRider, and as many around here I sail on a lake with gusty rather light wind. But as I get bored when sailing past 1 minute in a straight line, I tend to like carving, and I love practicing my gybes. I was mostly inspired by B.Muller video and f-one rocket shape, but I wanted inboard straps. The board is 1.70m long and 62cm wide for 100l. I have a deep dual concave at the front with bevels and it blends to flat at the rear. This board helped me improve my gybes mostly for its inboard straps I think, and I am now able to duck gybe with consistant succes rate. Also I place the mast foot way aft : it is just about 15 to 20 cm ahead of my front straps.
My goal with this board was to have a board that would make touch and go easier even if banked, possible uphaul and non flying sailing. So far, it is 100% success, and it is almost my allround board : I only change for my previous board when I want to sail full power to try to race with my friends.
I use Aeromod easyXL and easy M V2 foil, that is rather high aspect wing, 1m mast, full carbon foil.
Select to expand quote6u1d0 said..
Hy, I pop in this topic as I am using a personal custom foilboard I made last year (during first France Lock Down ).
So I am just a regular froggy foil FreeRider, and as many around here I sail on a lake with gusty rather light wind. But as I get bored when sailing past 1 minute in a straight line, I tend to like carving, and I love practicing my gybes. I was mostly inspired by B.Muller video and f-one rocket shape, but I wanted inboard straps. The board is 1.70m long and 62cm wide for 100l. I have a deep dual concave at the front with bevels and it blends to flat at the rear. This board helped me improve my gybes mostly for its inboard straps I think, and I am now able to duck gybe with consistant succes rate. Also I place the mast foot way aft : it is just about 15 to 20 cm ahead of my front straps.
My goal with this board was to have a board that would make touch and go easier even if banked, possible uphaul and non flying sailing. So far, it is 100% success, and it is almost my allround board : I only change for my previous board when I want to sail full power to try to race with my friends.
I use Aeromod easyXL and easy M V2 foil, that is rather high aspect wing, 1m mast, full carbon foil.
Photos?
Select to expand quoteFaff said..6u1d0 said..
Hy, I pop in this topic as I am using a personal custom foilboard I made last year (during first France Lock Down ).
So I am just a regular froggy foil FreeRider, and as many around here I sail on a lake with gusty rather light wind. But as I get bored when sailing past 1 minute in a straight line, I tend to like carving, and I love practicing my gybes. I was mostly inspired by B.Muller video and f-one rocket shape, but I wanted inboard straps. The board is 1.70m long and 62cm wide for 100l. I have a deep dual concave at the front with bevels and it blends to flat at the rear. This board helped me improve my gybes mostly for its inboard straps I think, and I am now able to duck gybe with consistant succes rate. Also I place the mast foot way aft : it is just about 15 to 20 cm ahead of my front straps.
My goal with this board was to have a board that would make touch and go easier even if banked, possible uphaul and non flying sailing. So far, it is 100% success, and it is almost my allround board : I only change for my previous board when I want to sail full power to try to race with my friends.
I use Aeromod easyXL and easy M V2 foil, that is rather high aspect wing, 1m mast, full carbon foil.
Photos?
as newcomer, can't post photos or link yet, but as said google guidedupetitshaperamateur or windsurfing33 same id on YT id Guido.
Select to expand quote6u1d0 said..
Hy, I pop in this topic as I am using a personal custom foilboard I made last year (during first France Lock Down ).
So I am just a regular froggy foil FreeRider, and as many around here I sail on a lake with gusty rather light wind. But as I get bored when sailing past 1 minute in a straight line, I tend to like carving, and I love practicing my gybes. I was mostly inspired by B.Muller video and f-one rocket shape, but I wanted inboard straps. The board is 1.70m long and 62cm wide for 100l. I have a deep dual concave at the front with bevels and it blends to flat at the rear. This board helped me improve my gybes mostly for its inboard straps I think, and I am now able to duck gybe with consistant succes rate. Also I place the mast foot way aft : it is just about 15 to 20 cm ahead of my front straps.
My goal with this board was to have a board that would make touch and go easier even if banked, possible uphaul and non flying sailing. So far, it is 100% success, and it is almost my allround board : I only change for my previous board when I want to sail full power to try to race with my friends.
I use Aeromod easyXL and easy M V2 foil, that is rather high aspect wing, 1m mast, full carbon foil.
Hi and welcome! I absolutely love your website. It has been a real help and imo the best source for home shapers. I also appreciate the fact that the s3d files are downloadable. Same about the yt channel, I don't want to know how much time I spend watching your videos. Thanks for that!
If you have a file for the board you discribed and are willing to share it, I'd love that!
Now about this topic, something very intresting you mention is the mastfoot position. Rightnow I'm working on my foilskills with a clasic freestyle board and I notice that because you stand so close to the centreline, you tend to overpower much quicker. As a result I don't sheet in that much. When I do sheet in to get some more power and when I'm not pushing upwind, the board has a lot more pressure in front of the board resulting in the board coming down. The other way around (and more annoyingly), when sheeting back out the pressure reduces resulting in (over)lifting. In short balancing is much more difficult than on a wide board. Maybe placing the mastfoot all the way back helps.
Starboard recommended in their ignite presentation to place the mastfoot more to the front for foiling compared to freestyle. Maybe that helps for pop and spinning? I don't know.
How are those central footstraps working for you? I find it a bit like jumping from your first freeride fin board to a wave or freestyle board. Difficult at first, a bit scary, but so worth the effort! I might go for a wider frontstap stance on a custom board to get a bit more control when fully (over)powered, but that's just me. First I'll play around with the mastfoot position, hope it helps.
Select to expand quoteNicoDC said..
Hi and welcome! I absolutely love your website... Same about the yt channel
Well, guidedupetitshaperamateur is not MY website (I haven't any) but just a place where I got inspired. But this place is indeed the best french website for those looking for information about shaping and laminating...Select to expand quoteNicoDC said..If you have a file for the board you discribed and are willing to share it, I'd love that!
I do have the file and will share it. I am not sure the link will be ok due to forum rules : drive.google.com/file/d/1PAfnvmAsaVE13mj7JispLIVzzhJ9sN0s/view?usp=sharing
Old image : changed for single aft straps and pushed the forward straps all the way forward. Select to expand quoteNicoDC said..Now about this topic, something very intresting you mention is the mastfoot position.
That's a long topic... IMHO, you have to consider both yaw balance (as with a fin windsurf) and pitch balance. When considering yaw balance, you have a fin with a lift force that is pushing windward, so does the mastfoot. Then the rider drives the board by shifting his lateral push either on the front or the rear foot. When you reduce the distance between the mast foot and your front foot, you get a more direct drive, as you conterbalance the windward push of the sail more directly with your front foot. Pitch balance is achieved betwwen the lift of the foil's wing, the downward force of the stab, and the weight of the rider. By shifting weight on either foot or on the sail (so toward the foot mast) we drive the pitch of the board. When you move the foot mast more to the aft, you have less leverage with the sail, and also a more direct drive with your feet.
I believe that tilting the stab for more downward force works well with a mast foot further forward : this moves the balance forces further apart giving more stability as the rope walker with a long balance pole.
With this board, I move my mastfoot back (about 80cm ahead of forward tuttle bolt) and increased the width of my stance (moved the front straps forward) this mostly because I felt I had to push hard leeward with my front foot. More or less, if I take the axis of my front foot, it crosses the board centerline just 5 or 10 cm behind the mastfoot, and it is the same with my more regular Horue like board with outboard straps (forward foot axis crossing centerline just behind mast foot).
The result is a very responsive and playfull kit.
Centered straps definitly helped me through switch stance that I now keep until the very end of my jibes.
Select to expand quoteswoosh said..
Pretty cool looking SV prototype, but probably not really what I have in mind. I really like the parallel rails on the Alien, even with 4.0 in 20kts+, I'm usually getting all the way out on the rail when I'm cooking upwind. Definitely would need to try before buy, as it might just be a technique adjustment required.
The real things look even better 
Should definitely be an option on your shopping list
Those Severnes look really good and a great shape. The current foilsylers also aren't great for heavyweights, but a 125l version is just what is needed.
The market really needs something to get wavesailors into foiling. There is still the impression where I sail that foiling is just big sails and straight-lining, rather than swell riding, jumps, freestyle tricks etc. It's also the reason people are going winging.
Market it as a freestyle-wave board or even a waveboard and you'd hopefully see a lot of interest.
Is there any more information on them?
Those severnes do look nice. I hope the volumes are accurate, I have a 115 alien and it has the same volume as my 105 JP.
Select to expand quote6u1d0 said..NicoDC said..
Hi and welcome! I absolutely love your website... Same about the yt channel
Well, guidedupetitshaperamateur is not MY website (I haven't any) but just a place where I got inspired. But this place is indeed the best french website for those looking for information about shaping and laminating...NicoDC said..If you have a file for the board you discribed and are willing to share it, I'd love that!
I do have the file and will share it. I am not sure the link will be ok due to forum rules : drive.google.com/file/d/1PAfnvmAsaVE13mj7JispLIVzzhJ9sN0s/view?usp=sharing
Old image : changed for single aft straps and pushed the forward straps all the way forward. NicoDC said..Now about this topic, something very intresting you mention is the mastfoot position.
That's a long topic... IMHO, you have to consider both yaw balance (as with a fin windsurf) and pitch balance. When considering yaw balance, you have a fin with a lift force that is pushing windward, so does the mastfoot. Then the rider drives the board by shifting his lateral push either on the front or the rear foot. When you reduce the distance between the mast foot and your front foot, you get a more direct drive, as you conterbalance the windward push of the sail more directly with your front foot. Pitch balance is achieved betwwen the lift of the foil's wing, the downward force of the stab, and the weight of the rider. By shifting weight on either foot or on the sail (so toward the foot mast) we drive the pitch of the board. When you move the foot mast more to the aft, you have less leverage with the sail, and also a more direct drive with your feet.
I believe that tilting the stab for more downward force works well with a mast foot further forward : this moves the balance forces further apart giving more stability as the rope walker with a long balance pole.
With this board, I move my mastfoot back (about 80cm ahead of forward tuttle bolt) and increased the width of my stance (moved the front straps forward) this mostly because I felt I had to push hard leeward with my front foot. More or less, if I take the axis of my front foot, it crosses the board centerline just 5 or 10 cm behind the mastfoot, and it is the same with my more regular Horue like board with outboard straps (forward foot axis crossing centerline just behind mast foot).
The result is a very responsive and playfull kit.
Centered straps definitly helped me through switch stance that I now keep until the very end of my jibes.
Tried to place the mastfoot more aft, didn't work. In fact I now out it even more forward than before. When taking off, the board (220cm long) seems to need a decent amount of pressure on the mastfoot to shift from lifting to leveling (while still using backfoot pressure to get up). The fuse of my foil is 120 so that for sure explains a bit why I need frontfoot or mastfoot pressure.
A bit sad because indeed I need almost constant mastfoot pressure when in the air to have a sustained flight, meaning I have to remain well sheeted in or be carefull with sheeting out. Over time this might actually be good to jump higher.
One last thing, I can't stress enought how fantastic this freestyleboard surfs for foiling. It is super quick to accelerate, playful and very forgiving. I hade some foilouts that for sure would result in major crashes if I was on my slalom board, but on this one I remained upright and could take off again right away.
Nice looking entry to to market from Patrik. 5'9 by 115L I think.
Crazy tail shape going on.
