Select to expand quoteMagicRide said..That's great to hear from your experiences! I feel I'm through with the hurdles of setting the foil up. I'm just allowing more time, patience and not to rush the assembly process. I'm realizing that's key to properly setting the foil up. I guess I'm just used to the windsurfing setup process, where I can speed through the setup with no issues and get on the water fast. I realize the foiling setup takes more time to assemble and the delicate threads don't help to speed up the process any. Can't wait to give it a go!!
I haven't stripped any threads on my Slingshot gear in more than 300 sessions - it seems super robust to me.
I Tefgel everything and only pull it apart to inspect/re-Tefgel every couple of months.
I modified the mast-cap bolts that attach the wings to the fuse and replaced the mast/fuse bolts with SS - easy and cheap to do and works for me.
It's quick to attach the assembled foil to the board - as fast as sticking a fin in a slalom board.
A big advantage is only needing 1 short board (1.8m ) in my car (no need to lower the front seat) that works for 10-30 knots 
Select to expand quoteMagicRide said..
Just received the new Tuttle head and everything assembled beautifully!! The front bolt is more centered in the oval than the rear bolt is, so my finger can fit in that one better. The rear bolt is positioned more aft of the oval but in the threads. I can use the very tips of my finger to get the rear bolt started. If my fingers were any larger, I'd have a hard time finger starting the bolts. After I finger started both bolts, I took the Allen key and twirled it into the threads then grabed up on the handle to snug it up. I assembled it twice with really no issues, just patience. I didn't grease those bolts, as I need every grip with no greasy slippage on my fingers to hand start the bolts. Those bolts are the only ones on the kit I refuse to grease. All others will be greased. But one more thing. Can I get away with not greasing the bolts that attach the front i84 wing to the fuse? Or should I grease those too? I'm only in fresh water by the way. The whole foil will be disassembled after every session, except where the tuttle bolts to the mast. I will routinely check those, but they will be tight all the time. I'll loosen them occasionally then snug em up again. Actually, I'll probably keep the rear wing attached as well, loosen it and snug it up every once in a while. But everything else will be disassembled. Your ideas worked perfect!! I'm very impressed!! Problem is solved now
A question MagicRide: are the barrels in the Tuttle Box made of Brass? If not, if they are stainless or titanium, the risk of cross threading will be much more pronounced and I would remove them and install nice softer brass ones.
No barrels in the Slingshot foil. If combined with a Slingshot board, it is 8mm thread cut directly into the aluminium Tuttle-adapter. If you use it with other bards, you can get brass inserts, that reduce from M8 to M6 thread. I used that from may until recently, without any worries.
David
Above it was said: "That and boards are getting fatter in the tail. The recesses become a necessity after a certain tail depth."
I have seen two websites from people that supply really tall, and really thick, deep tuttle boxes to install in boards with really thick tails. When you install these flush with the bottom deck, they usually stick out from the top deck. You just trim them to be flush with the top deck. Then, when you have finished the top deck with glass and carbon, you have a flush top surface for the fin screws. No recessed tunnel necessary.
The guys that are making custom thick-tailed foilboards are using these and installing them this way. I have one of these from North Pacific. Flush deck, no recessed tunnels, really long fin screws, big fender washers. Just like the old days with thick-tailed formula boards.
I believe production foil-ready boards with thick tails are now also using these extra tall deep tuttle boxes.
