STC beautiful conditions there. I can't remember the last time I had glass like that. And your previous pics where you live in a fairly populated
area of the US and you can get a glassy nice wave with only a couple out there to share with. Do the sleek grey fellas with the sharp teeth keep the crowds in check?

Some civil disobedience at Black Rock this morning...some downwinders wait for no man...and this was one of them!
I hereby declare the Honourable DJ Peterson mid-week downwinding season...OPEN!!!
STC beautiful conditions there. I can't remember the last time I had glass like that. And your previous pics where you live in a fairly populated
area of the US and you can get a glassy nice wave with only a couple out there to share with. Do the sleek grey fellas with the sharp teeth keep the crowds in check?
Yeah, the recent insane number of Great Whites here have emptied the line-ups
I have a fair bit of appreciation for the GW's now ![]()
The "A" Team locals, only seem to surf when it is big and hollow. Mostly in colder months
Really weird, they can go dormant for months, then show up in the pit, when it's on.
The "B" team surfers that surf all year are much fewer in number these days, and we are all friends.
The great thing about Cape Cod:
We have extremely hollow, thick lipped beach breaks that the "A" team surfers love
We have nice long tapered sandbanks, that break more like points, that the "B" team surfers and SUPsters love.
The Cape SUPsters are numerous and very good , my video of the SUP crew is almost done!
SUPs rule the "B" team spots ![]()
Many of the "A" team surfers are actually starting to SUP, during peak shark season. (mid July- Oct)
Not many surfers seem to ever go out at dawn or dusk...
SUPsters are in before the Sun, so we get great, empty conditions.
I actually get to surf alone quite a bit.
I used to love the hard breaking, hollow spots,
72 year old me only surfs the sandbars that produce softer, more point like waves.
Of course this pic only shows the very best of bigger days, but those are the only days the good surfers seem to go out.
We have a lot of quality small waves, and the prevailing wind is offshore.
I have no idea how anyone can be a "part time" surfer...

Love how you lay that out. I have always been in awe of these A teamers who show up when it the spot goes to that epic level and just sit deep and score. Those days the spot fills up with these guys, who then pretty much control the lineup. When the spot reverts back to B status these guys disappear and leave to us.
Unfortunately I am very much a B team or maybe half way between the two. The A team lip looks like it is a foot thick. Beating would be an understatement especially now if you had your SUP in the mix as well.
Happy to be on the B team, surfing with the A team has knobs on it in my experience - a lot more competitive among that level of surfing.
They are awesome to watch none the less!
Cracking pics STC, looks real peaceful.
I surfed metro beach break this morning, had to pinch myself, no one out, had it to myself with chest high runners when you picked the right one.
Yesterday was the busiest I had seen it and expected the same but it wasn't to be, thanks Huey!
On a side note been practicing paddling on my smaller board, got some advice on bending the knees, really helped, alas now my lower back is tight, is this as a result of paddle technique now?? Have not had this on higher volume boards before but noticed it with this board
Cracking pics STC, looks real peaceful.
I surfed metro beach break this morning, had to pinch myself, no one out, had it to myself with chest high runners when you picked the right one.
Yesterday was the busiest I had seen it and expected the same but it wasn't to be, thanks Huey!
On a side note been practicing paddling on my smaller board, got some advice on bending the knees, really helped, alas now my lower back is tight, is this as a result of paddle technique now?? Have not had this on higher volume boards before but noticed it with this board
I think you get lazy on the big board then your body feels the lower volume when you ride them ! a lot more wobble and dipin the paddle alot more as long as its not hurtin you it can make u stronger !
Cracking pics STC, looks real peaceful.
I surfed metro beach break this morning, had to pinch myself, no one out, had it to myself with chest high runners when you picked the right one.
Yesterday was the busiest I had seen it and expected the same but it wasn't to be, thanks Huey!
On a side note been practicing paddling on my smaller board, got some advice on bending the knees, really helped, alas now my lower back is tight, is this as a result of paddle technique now?? Have not had this on higher volume boards before but noticed it with this board
I think you get lazy on the big board then your body feels the lower volume when you ride them ! a lot more wobble and dipin the paddle alot more as long as its not hurtin you it can make u stronger !
Sounds reasonable, the tightness went away but the sciatica lingers a bit, more attempts should see the core adapt.
99% of the time going for a regular SUP sees my back feel really good.
Allowed back on the water as of today! 35 mins was enough. 20 into it,short rest then back.
No I wasnt doing 100 push ups a day during confinement!

Great to have a keen daughter. After 2 months of confinement she was coming no matter what the weather was like. Even the rain didn't stop her. Need to get a new paddle for her!

Sit down paddle at Ventnor, first time on the water after a back hurty thing a couple of weeks ago.
Brilliant weather.

Local Sydney beaches so busy at moment . A nightmare . Stressful . Must be because local sport is still canceled . Felt like peak of summer out there today . 3 waves in 90 mins. But many have no etiquette and paddle for everything . Seeing 3 or 4 people on a wave is madness
Shame to hear of the crowd struggles Gboots, I had the opposite the other day.
The swell dropped off but I found a nice clean peak at dawn and had it to myself for about 30min before sharing it with a bloke on a Mal and a couple of blokes on softboards for another 30min. Beautiful waves that had great shape.
Bit of local knowledge on the shape of the different stretches of the beach is paying dividends lately ![]()