An unforeseen result of the V-shaped tail is that a flat plate mount does not sit flat on the bottom. We made a little video on how a plate mount can be shimmed and we will provide free shims until we can come up with a more elegant solution. If you have a Tuttle mount foil this is not an issue of course.
@blueplanetsurf, I noticed in your earlier videos that you were using the coil leash attached to your waist. But in the last video it looks like you have it attached to the board. Any feedback on what works best? I would think the coil would bang around on the deck of the board.
I have a coil leash that arrived with my new board earlier this week but haven't tried it out yet. Two short sessions in garbage conditions on the 6'6" Easy Foiler and managed a few short flights using the Mahalo foil. Thought it would be best to use the larger foil to start with then move to the Iwa.
Many thanks to Kevin at Blue Planet for his exceptional service!
Select to expand quoteDaHammerBDA said..
@blueplanetsurf, I noticed in your earlier videos that you were using the coil leash attached to your waist. But in the last video it looks like you have it attached to the board. Any feedback on what works best? I would think the coil would bang around on the deck of the board.
I have a coil leash that arrived with my new board earlier this week but haven't tried it out yet. Two short sessions in garbage conditions on the 6'6" Easy Foiler and managed a few short flights using the Mahalo foil. Thought it would be best to use the larger foil to start with then move to the Iwa.
Many thanks to Kevin at Blue Planet for his exceptional service!
Great to hear you got your new board and that you got a few flights already!
Regarding the retractable leash, I just tried it once mounted on the board. At this point, I prefer having it attached to a waist belt, a rubber dive belt works great, I'm just always experimenting with the gear. I'll tell Kevin you are stoked, he will be happy to hear that.
Aloha, Robert
Select to expand quoteBigSeppo said..
I've been foiling a ton over the last six months. I'm loving feeling like a grom again.
Big thanks to Piros and everyone for sharing their knowledge. And some local pros who are world class, watching them fully load up the foil on turns is just inspiring. It's a good time to be a foiler.
The thing is, I have gone through a ton of foil gear. I probably have 8 wing sets and a number of boards from various brands. Much of it has either broken or has performed poorly (and "poorly" is an understatement in some cases).
I am a really big dude, riding big foils in small surf. It's a lot of forces at work. So gear that might be just fine for a normal sized dude strengthwise is not fine for me.
Anyway, I don't want to flame out the companies where the gear has either disintegrated or performed poorly (or both). (Piros knows some of what I've gone through.)
Instead, I want to share my stoke on a new toy that -- so far -- is the best I've ridden.
It's the Blue Planet Easy Foiler board. (No affiliation with Blue Planet, etc.)
It's really the BP Easy Foiler with the GoFoil Iwa foil. If you get a BP Easy Foiler and GoFoil that is appropriate for your weight and conditions, you are all set. You can't blame it on the kit. I'm sure there's other decent gear out there. But I haven't found it better than this...
Here's the basic rundown on the Blue Planet Easy Foiler...
It is true to it's name. It IS easy foiling.
* So easy to get into the wave (parallel rails? not sure why)
* So responsive with it's short length and carbon construction.
* So easy to come out of carves without catching with the slight "reverse" Kalama rails.
* Bomber stiff, quality GoFoil branded tuttle box and high-density foam insert. (I've broken everything.)
(I don't recommend it, but coming in to the beach with my leash off, the board came out of my hands and got tossed by a wave right onto dry sand spinning and crashing multiple times. The Easy Foiler and the GoFoil Iwa made it just fine. Whew.)
* Super price for carbon -- especially as it comes with everything (except straps, but it has strap inserts).
* Sounds obvious, but... It's actually designed for SUP surf foiling! It's not production sup model with a foil insert. It's not a crossover / windsurf / kite / surf / downwind / hybrid / convertible thingy. It's a dedicated foil sup. Yeah!
Kudos to Robert and Sam and the crew at Blue Planet.
Having tried a bunch of boards and masts and foils, I can confidently say this is the best one I've ridden by far. By far.
Blue Planet Easy Foiler with a GoFoil... worth a go!
BigSeppo
What size and how many litres is the board ?
Here's the Link Scotty to the board specs and they do look pretty sweet.
www.blueplanetsup.eu/product-category/foiling/
Many months in.
Still surfs far better than other boards. I keep trying boards, as Piros knows I've gone through a lot (I tried a Takuma DBS yesterday) but nothing is close. (Takuma was a foot longer, with a harder rail, so it would spin later to catch a wave of course, and the rail itself would "catch" or "bog" sometimes on wave entry compared to the BP.)
Also, the BP still looks almost new. I had Blue Planet install their rail tape, so the rails are still clean. I'm a big dude (6'4", 115+ kg). So deck dents where I stand are common over time on SUPs. But not on this.
Also, I have torn up a lot of mast boxes. Not on this BP. Instead, over the weekend the two stainless steel tuttle box screws bent. Man it's a lot cheaper to replace two screws than a tuttle box! This board is built well.
No affiliation to BP. Just a stoked big dude, on the right equipment after going through a lot of bad equipment, wanting to share my experience.
I'm riding BP 7'6" and GoFoil Iwa in chest high surf. I'm using the GoFoil M-200 foil in REALLY weak or smaller waves.
Stoked!
Hey Piros,
How does your Kalama custom go when paddling in to small bumps with teh heavy tail bevel? Does that design work dwownwind? I am having some success with a 7'6" x 28" traditional shape combined with the 280. I need to learn to stay on the foil longer but its up and working in a 15 to 20 sea breeze in Adelaide in pretty much wind fetch. Getting short runs on the foil but have a lot to learn before i can say i have it dialed!
The board has really good flat water paddle speed , but it does push water trying to get over the hump of the wave. That kicked up tail really threw me at first paddling out back over waves , kept bucking me off but I'm used to it now. By far the best surfing and pumping board I have been on but definitely not for a downwinder in our conditions the 7-1 is just too short .I surf heaps with Dale Chapman (DC Boards) and his 7-6 x 28 leaves me for dead picking up bumps. The 280 really flexes the mast and wobbles the board so a slightly longer & wider board will helps heaps for the downwinding.
Good to know, thanks. The downwind side of things will be interesting to see what design works the best!
Select to expand quoteBigSeppo said..
Just to clarify, I have had total failures on twin mast boxes installed by foil board manufacturers.
Piros and Robert from Blue Planet have seen pictures of one of these failures.
The manufacturer did have the two "fin boxes" set into a high density foam box. But the high density foam did not go from bottom to deck. So the separation happened as the high density foam rubbed up against the "beer cooler" foam, and delammed on day one. Standing on the beach, you could push on the foil and see the bottom of the board deforming each way you pushed it. The high density box was unattached from the EPS foam. (Don't want to flame out the manufacturer, they made good on things.)
I bring this up because there's some discussion of this over on StandupZone.com, saying the twin mast boxes might be superior to the tuttle.
www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,32989.0.html
I don't have a dog in the fight. Just wanted to point out that I have killed twin-mast-box boards, actually way easier than tuttles.
Piros has said to me that, regardless of box style, the high density foam should go all the way through, and that both the deck and the bottom should be reinforced.
The boards I've had that follow this thinking have held up. The others have not. It just so happens that my boards with tuttle boxes have this type of reinforcement. So tuttle has been better for me.
But I think it's about Piros's idea, not necessarily about the tuttle.
It's interesting you say that. I'm about to get a board made and wasn't sure what to put into it. I was talking to Armie Armstrong and he is set that twin boxes will be the future over Tuttle. Based on his r&d the female Tuttle in the board cannot be made strong enough for the massive forces of a big wing. I liked the Tuttle as there is less drag when paddling but I keep seeing Tuttle "plates" which to me defeats the purpose.
In terms of putting boxes through to the deck, I have also heard theories that not tying it through is actually stronger. With the reasoning being the deck and base flex differently (tension & compression) so tying it through increases the chances of the board snapping. I've had one made not the entire way through. I added a massive plate of 20mm high density foam around them and it held up well. As well as a big carbon patch supporting it.
My current plan is to make a poly board for extra support against the high density insert. It is a trade off in weight but I really don't want anything to break.
Armie is a smart guy. And he is really doing the R&D. He should know better than me.
I was just relaying my experience.
I don't agree yes my early track box failures were bad installs . Fixed that then had cracked boxes , fixed that then snapped T-nuts . Plus when you fix tracks you have to add packer to offset rocker. A Tuttle you can offset to suit rocker. Only 2 screws and boom you are away . T nuts are the Bain of my life loosing them. Also have cracked a Tuttle we now also reinforce the Tuttle before we fit it. On a 4 inch thick Sup I'll go Tuttle all day but on a thin prone board tracks will be better. I'm still vote One for Tuttle and use a track mount Converter gives you best of both worlds and you also pick up 3 inches in mast length. Good thing....
I'll always be pro Tuttle given the ease of assembly and less drag when you paddle.
However I keep seeing tuttles coming as "tuttles with a flat support plate" which to me defeats the benefits of the zero drag from a Tuttle. Also you can't offset the Tuttle with board rocker as the flat support plate wouldn't be flush?
Im putting zero tail lift in my prone board so wont have an issue with the angle.
Its interesting because I thought everyone out there would convert to Tuttle as the sport progressed but the industry is still split
The tuttle to track converters I have seen so far are very heavy. Any good one available in carbon that are lightweight?
Does anyone know what the moth guys are doing for reinforcement around their centerboard casings?
I think the plate mount should win the mounting war.
I like Ike being able to bolt-on a kite foil. My kite foil needs to be slid forward in the tracks. Same board works great for surfing or kiting.
You dont need a mounting shim when the board is designed to not need one. Not that hard to figure out. The Kalama tail bevel eliminates the need for rocker, so flat through the foil mounting area trims perfect.
Tracks fail when board builders take shortcuts and use futures boxes. You need high glass fill chinook windsurf boxes. These boxes were in such high demand there was a world wide shortage and guys started using chinook mast tracks. Supplies are back now.
Tuttle boxes are thin inside. Very thin walled carbon. Scary weak looking. I'm talking about the Tuttles made by Larry Tuttle himself in the US. His later boxes appeared to have thicker plywood in the wall. Bet you didn't know it had plywood in it! The Chinese Tuttle I installed was more heavy duty, but quality was sketchy. Bottom was not square to foil. I think guys are tilting foils in the box. You should not do that. It point loads the tapered surfaces. You'll crack it. Not much carbon in that area of the Tuttle. It's likely to get better over time.
So many Tuttle foils pop and squeak once up and riding because they don't get seated fully tight against the tapered front and back. Not good. Tuttle is far from perfect.
It comes down to two bolts are faster than four to install, but four gives options.
Both ways need to be installed right, by the rider and the builder.
Select to expand quoteScotty Mac said..
I have had no problem with Tuttle. Just sayin............
I have had no problems with Tuttle either, it's a strong, solid connection with no wiggle and just two screws. The only advantage I see in the Plate mount is adjustability. If the Tuttle box is mounted in the right place that's not an issue though.
I just saw this video review of a carbon Tuttle to Plate mount converter that looks really well thought out:
Groove carbon $405 Aus +frieght 450 grams .Manta Ali light equivalent 700 grams $216 Aus + freight . Or the Mac kiting Ali plate for only $200 Aus delivered. All still look super chunky and have to create drag paddling back out .Good way to pick up 100m in length of mast not so good for learning but a plus when you charge bigger waves. The original Manta was 1kg , I bought one it and felt like a brick in your hand. Here are some shots of the adaptors available now. The Groove looks nice but is it worth the extra money to save 250 grams and the Camet guys are dreaming.
Groove carbon $405 Aus + freight 450 grams
The Manta Light 700 grams $216 Aus + freight
The Manta original 1kg $216 Aus + freight
Camet Carbon 400 grams $480 Aus + freight, they are dreaming ...
And this is the winner at 700 grams from Mac Kite Boarding $200 Aus delivered, buy it here: -http://www.mackiteboarding.com/2018-gofoil-tuttle-to-track-adapter-plate/
Nice summary of plate adapter options, thanks Prios!
Here is a short video of a fun session in Waikiki a couple of weeks ago using the Soloshot3 with a new clamp on mount and windscreen:
I have the opposite question, does anyone know where I can buy a Tuttle adapter for a Naish Thrust foil? (Mine has a plate mount but I am buying a board with Tuttle mount). Thanks.
Can anyone see an issue cutting into naish mast plate turning holes into slots so easy to move from kiteboard to sup board quicker.
Strength wise should be OK but you will wreck the anodising and it will corrode. Why ruin a good plate you lazy bugger. 
We had some great foiling waves on the South Shore the last few days, this is a fun ride from this morning:
Great video Robert I also shared on foil vidoes on this site and how good are those foot blocks front and back great idea. 
