Ok just got my new DC 7-10 x 20 x 121 litres , really happy super stable could have easily gone 19" but I'm playing it safe for sh!tty ocean days. I used the color scheme of the most famous Aussie lure the Halco 160 DD or the Qantas lure. Looks so good. Only had one crack on it . I came back from Indo with a knee injury , hopefully another run in a couple of days .
This is the insta video , gives a nice long close look at it , then a short youtube clip.
www.instagram.com/reel/CrDLj6jOp1D/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Here's the board in action , in the Broadwater .
Great vid Rob.. Love the music.. Love the camera angle.. Now go buy some RainX.. ![]()
Few more shots of Dales new boards . Left to right
Blade 7-6 x 19 x 111 litres
Harpoon 7-10 x 20 x 121 litres
Blade 7-6 x 20-1/2 x 105 litres
www.instagram.com/reel/CraHuaLMC9r/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=



How is DC characterizing the differences in feel between the Harpoon and Blade? Is he evolving both designs or migrating towards one vs the other? Anybody tried both?
Yes constantly evolving both designs . You can see in this pic the double concave and extra nose volume added to the Harpoon . I've ridden both and being a part time Sup Foiler who just wants to DW , the Harpoon is the one for me . The Blades however are alot more versatile for DW carving , riding smaller foils and in waves . Getting out my crystal ball to answer your question yes I personally think the designs will merge BUT I think there will still be a place for the Harpoon as it really shortens the learning curve . That's the good part about getting a board off Dale just chat to him on what you want to do and he will build you one for that and to your exact size and weight .

Hey Rob I happen to meet a guy on a surf trip to the Mentawis who is a marine biologist who studies shark activity. Bad news mate is there is no evidence those eye stickers work. Good idea but no cigar.
Hey Scotty since all the Abalone and Scallop divers started wearing these none have been taken , prior to that Shanan Worrall" Co Founder" lost some very close friends in that industry , that's why he developed these. So take it as you may , I definitely feel safer with them on. Not that scientific I know but I haven't heard of any attacks across the board with anyone useing Shark Eye Deterrent stickers or prints. Have a bit more of a read up here about them before you write them off completely. My DC 7-10 Halco Lure Harpoon should be a good test ![]()
![]()
www.sharkeyesglobal.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjw9J2iBhBPEiwAErwpeSc6VX8fsZMyjWVV1SIm0eHORluj075Dsh9utbBBtFOzx6_41xF89RoCaqoQAvD_BwE
Rob have you got any thoughts to optimum foil box placement? I see it looks like they're inching forward on your boards, and wondering if having the foil near the middle of the board is viable for Axis and Uni specifically
Yeah super good question as I use multiple brand foils , my previous 8-0 Harpoon the rear of the 16 inch box was 600mm from the tail on my new 7-10 it's 525mm from the tail and the Axis 1300 is one inch from the back of the box , so that's spot on for the Axis 1300 and if I use the ART's it will creep forward. I'm definitely going further forward with my Cabrinha rigs and when the new 1300 comes out it will be way forward of the Axis 1300 on the Harpoon but well within the 16" box range it will also suit Uni no worries. So I reckon I'm on the money at the 525. If you go longer in board length bump the boxes forward , shorter do the reverse. I was in SurfFx to and checked out the brand new Armstrong 7-2 & 7-7 DW models... mate these boxes were super forward around the 725mm mark
so NO to Axis , Go Foil & probably Uni on these boards but sick looking boards though.
Alot of the box placement comes down to board design as well , if you have a long and skinny like the Harpoon or Barracuda the board will start to plane without foiling so your foot placement won't shift. If you have a Sunova Elite , Amos , Armstrong ect or similar with a fuller nose you will need to stand further forward to drop down the bump or thump it up , problem there is once it tries to foil or you miss the bump you are too far forward broaching the nose and you can drop over the front . Once you get it together on these fatter type nose boards they do push up well but a miss will put you in the drink . It's a more advanced skill set. So getting back to your question on these boards because you end further forward paddling in so should you boxes. IMHO ![]()
Cheers thank you! Great insights
Going long and skinny, and have yet to have a box that is too far forward.. though those Armstrongs sound probably like they'd be close!
Took my 7-10 Harpoon in the waves for the first time today in the Ballina Seaway entrance, this was super tricky conditions with flood out tide. I tea bagged (fell in) a few times but got my legs dialed and boom I was away. Look at the end of the video this was actually my first wave and got super boosted pretty funny and caught it on 2 cameras. Plus look out for the original Dogman Dutch rudder maneuver at 1.14 this was his signature move. Riding the Axis 1099 ART , 76cm HD mast , Ultra Short Fuse & 350 rear. .
Nice board! Can you share your camera setup? I've built similar and would like to see what you've come up with.
Look at 2min-36 sec in the video you will see the pole on the front of the board . It's a Insta 360 X3 . I had foot strap mounts fitted into the board when I had it made , but I tore the whole lot out today on a heavy fall . Major repair , best off to hand hold a pole .

Interesting. I was thinking of mounting on rear foot-strap inserts too but was worried about that type of breakage. I've only used adhesive mounts but they always fail with longer poles.
I've ordered this suction mount that looks promising:
www.seasucker.com/products/gopro-mount?_pos=3&_sid=5a47c63a3&_ss=r
4.5" vacuum mounts have a rated pull strength of 120lbs, pulling straight out from center. Pull strength on a shear load, i.e. pulling from the side, will be less. 6" vacuum mounts are 210lbs rated.