After heavy rains/flooding I missed finding hidden water in cabin under seaberth.
Unfortunately that now means heaps of mould and rusty food tins/ruined towels.
Cleaned up/dried out with sugarsoap.
Now getting cheap low amp 12v computer fans from jaycar to run circulation thru boat, need to setup on a timer www.jaycar.com.au/ip55-rated-120mm-12v-dc-ball-bearing-fan/p/YX2522
Also purchased some Tea Tree Gel today that apparently antifungally cleans mould in the air/boat http://www.whitemagic.biz/product/air-purifier-gel-large/
Need to make the boat healthy to be in again.
Any other ideas how to beat this?
No affiliation with the companies in links
I have been battling this for a while now. I bought some of this last week - yet to deploy. solair.com.au/zydox.php
And I have no connection to the seller.
By way of extra reading www.mycologia.com.au/
My girlfriend has a chronic response to black mould resulting in mood swings, joint aches - and much more. We didn't know until after buying the boat; when I started removing the vinyl headliner in the cabin I found the fibreglass looking like leopard skin. Been scrubbing with vinegar, soapy water, rinse, paint with antifungal - No Bleach!
When completed I will use the chlorine dioxide to finish the job then wipe down every couple of weeks, keep the vents open, minimise the fresh water ingress. Note chlorine dioxide is used to clean water tanks, from Zydox site "chlorine dioxide will not react with many organic compounds, and as a result ClO2 does not produce environmentally dangerous chlorinated organics"
I have a de-humidifier that runs in auto, 24/7 with the drain sitting over the sink to take away the condensate.
De-humidifier came from Kogan (I think) but is exactly the same as the De Longhi as I have at work (in the switchboard room for the same reason, humidity is not a good friend of switchboards)
Have had zero mould even thro' Adelaide last winter which was foul.
We use Ti-tree oil cleaner and anpother Ti-tree based product on the ship here ..... I swear by the stuff and use it everywhere including in the ventilation system to kill any nasties people have brought onboard.
Ask Senor Google Gelair ( www.gelair.com.au/ )..... WA company and he will send it anywhere. I use it at home and even sent it to my better half's family in South America to kill the mold in house there. (I have no connection with them other than use and swear by the product)
Not only your girl is suffering from mould, the human constitution would not last in presence of mould.
Once mould is set it is almost impossible to remove.
The basic requirement on a vessel on the water is constant circulation of fresh air even if it is moist. It'll dry out in a day anyway.
I keep my boat dry by opening up all, l mean all parts of the boat into one biiiiiig room to be sure, all parts receive circulating fresh air. Hurricane wents on deck are the ducks guts plus open bilges, cabin wall hatches, lazarette hatches, deck hatches open all the time. My Nemo hatches have a 'just open' setting on the hatch lock. It gives a 1/8 of an inch gap for air to circulate. On the deck l got covers over the hatches all the time:
Not even the highest winds or heaviest rains cause any problems with the covers held by ocky straps to the gunwales.
It is like this since l got the tub. Dry bilge is achieved, though the mast is bringing down some water into a set up recepticle in the bilge, the mast being keel stepped.
If you lock up your boat air tight, you are asking for trouble and mould.
Queequeg - thanks, did you get the Exskinkt product (accelerator, spray or sachet)?
Dkd - yeah I was about to buy Gelair but found cheaper version from Qld. Check out the link I put up for the White Magic tea tree gel (cheapest one I've found). Same product as Kanberra Gel and Gelair I think but on sale atm
SirG - like the sound of those hatches, unfortunately mine are basic models. But looking to improve air thru flow. I made the massive mistake of gafftaping airvents closed during heavy rain (boat bilge was filling so tried this to eliminate water ingress and forgot to undo later).
Located another bilge section with water, now dried out.
Found a vid explaining a natural ingredient antimould process (tea tree oil > grapefruit seed oil > vingear > bicarb soda)
My personal view on fixed marine carpet is, NO!
One of the best way to contain mould below deck is glued of fixed carpets.
Other non absorbent coverings or easily removable carpets, covers are fine. My best 'carpets' are large thick towels on the cabin floor.
I have had success keeping away the mould by using 'Mould Power' (like bleach but without the toxic nasal burning fumes, & you can spray it on fabrics), got it at Coles, but last time I looked they didn't stock it anymore.
A critical factor I think is to leave the curtains un-drawn, mould does not like too much light.
I use a small 12V computer fan, blowing out thru a rear-facing snorkel vent on the forehatch. Since I'm on a swing mooring, wind is always fore-to-aft and the fan assists to pull a draft from the companionway to the forecabin and out thru the vent. This has kept mould to a minimum through a couple of Melbourne winters.
Cheers, Graeme
Clove oil mixed with a few drops of detergent and vinegar is a mouldicide that lasts after you cleaned..
Well, l have done my bit, if one is running a dehumidifier on a boat (24/7!
), one does not use the natural defence and instead of using natural ways to keep the boat dry puts extra demand on the already overworked coal powered electricity suppliers. It is neither a 'green' or a very clever way to deal with the matter.
Probably lots of people don't understand my motive, especially in a country where air conditioning is used recklessly and unnecessarily almost under any circumstances.
I highly recommend the 'hurricane went'! See Ww. catledog, they are selling it.
Dorade wents, yeah, but nothing beats the hurricane on a small boat.
@Dism "Queequeg - thanks, did you get the Exskinkt product (accelerator, spray or sachet)?"
I went with the sachet as I figure it will be easier to place in strategic places in boat. Good video clip.
Great to see so much interest in this topic.
As I previously posted I'm in the process of removing the front runner carpet in my forward cabin and replacing with textured wall paper and anti bacterial paint seems to be working a treat so far.
Southace - what paint are you using? Think this might be the go in galley/head/cupboards etc
Queequeg - cheers. Might have to ring them, can't find their eShop
SirG - will suss WW, agree on need to be more sustainable and efficient in boating choices, besides on a swing mooring and partially tropical humidity here means busy dehumidifier.
Slammin - good spray recipe, will add to arsenal
Everyone has good tips, geez that mould ruined my immunity later week.
Reading up on it, nasty stuff and massively dangerous to the old/young etc
Thinking on best setup for my T op Hat 25 have vented forward hatch, port over gallery seabird ventillator, stb over head seabird ventillator then rear grill vent in top washboard.
Thinking add solar night/day ventillator www.whitworths.com.au/ forward hatch
As on a swing mooring with fore-aft ventilation, guess need to put forward one to push mode then put extracting fan in washboards
Then add 12v pc fan on timer to std ventillator.
Clear all mould with all the sprays mentioned.
Repaint worst areas (galley/head/cupboards and poss lazatettes with antimould paint.
Leave Tea Tree Gel and Exstinkt sachets in galley/head/lazarette etc
On the right track now?
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
Well, l have done my bit, if one is running a dehumidifier on a boat (24/7!), one does not use the natural defence and instead of using natural ways to keep the boat dry puts extra demand on the already overworked coal powered electricity suppliers. It is neither a 'green' or a very clever way to deal with the matter.
Probably lots of people don't understand my motive, especially in a country where air conditioning is used recklessly and unnecessarily almost under any circumstances.
I highly recommend the 'hurricane went'! See Ww. catledog, they are selling it.
Dorade wents, yeah, but nothing beats the hurricane on a small boat.
The Hurricane vents are not in the latest Whitworth catalog.
I just read this thread after only yesterday cleaning the interior of my boat. I used Dettol mould spray from Coles. Yeah I know... caustic chemicals and all that but with a respirator the stuff works like a dream. After spraying, sponging and washing down I use lots of rag to wipe the surface down to keep the stink to a minimum.
Several years ago I pulled all linings out of my boat, faired the hull sides with high build primer then finished it in two pack polyurethane. This has paid off each season when it comes to cleaning.
Stop me if I get too interesting.
VENT HURRICANE
www.whitworths.com.au/hurricane-vent-white
Id like to see a picture of this installed if anyone has one?
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
Well, l have done my bit, if one is running a dehumidifier on a boat (24/7!), one does not use the natural defence and instead of using natural ways to keep the boat dry puts extra demand on the already overworked coal powered electricity suppliers. It is neither a 'green' or a very clever way to deal with the matter.
Probably lots of people don't understand my motive, especially in a country where air conditioning is used recklessly and unnecessarily almost under any circumstances.
I highly recommend the 'hurricane went'! See Ww. catledog, they are selling it.
Dorade wents, yeah, but nothing beats the hurricane on a small boat.
Running the humidifier in AUTO with the correct settings is actually cost effective FOR ME. The cost of running it is, in the long run, my expense and in the entire scale of the potential issue the most cost effective way for it to be managed. Not a cruising boat, but not sure why this actually matters but there is NO mould on my boat and that is the name of the game
Did not expect this to become a soapbox for people personal views ..... but SA still has the greenest power sources, (when it works) no coal here unless it comes in from Vic or NSW.
Select to expand quotedkd said..sirgallivant said..
Well, l have done my bit, if one is running a dehumidifier on a boat (24/7!), one does not use the natural defence and instead of using natural ways to keep the boat dry puts extra demand on the already overworked coal powered electricity suppliers. It is neither a 'green' or a very clever way to deal with the matter.
Probably lots of people don't understand my motive, especially in a country where air conditioning is used recklessly and unnecessarily almost under any circumstances.
I highly recommend the 'hurricane went'! See Ww. catledog, they are selling it.
Dorade wents, yeah, but nothing beats the hurricane on a small boat.
Running the humidifier in AUTO with the correct settings is actually cost effective FOR ME. The cost of running it is, in the long run, my expense and in the entire scale of the potential issue the most cost effective way for it to be managed. Not a cruising boat, but not sure why this actually matters but there is NO mould on my boat and that is the name of the game
Did not expect this to become a soapbox for people personal views ..... but SA still has the greenest power sources, (when it works) no coal here unless it comes in from Vic or NSW.
Why post on here dkd if you don't want other people's personal views, I thought that was the idea of this forum !??
Select to expand quoteRingle said..
I just read this thread after only yesterday cleaning the interior of my boat. I used Dettol mould spray from Coles. Yeah I know... caustic chemicals and all that but with a respirator the stuff works like a dream. After spraying, sponging and washing down I use lots of rag to wipe the surface down to keep the stink to a minimum.
Several years ago I pulled all linings out of my boat, faired the hull sides with high build primer then finished it in two pack polyurethane. This has paid off each season when it comes to cleaning.
Stop me if I get too interesting.
Do carry on .
Well, the essence of my criticism of running a dehumidifier instead of naturally aerate ones yacht has obviously not been understood by some. Pity.
Once we generated electricity it should not be used with careless abandon, just because it has been generated an Earth-friendly way.
l husband my electricity at home as well as on my yacht regardless of it's source.
The hurricane wents omission from the Ww catledog is very regrettable, indeed.
It was one of the most useful items in the whole shebang. Pity.
If one would like to have a look at a hurricane went:
One is most grateful Sir G. Thank you. Trouble i have is a solid headliner which causes a few problems when installing items like this.
Ringle - think you're onto something there. Take you ages?
Thinking of doing this to my chop-strand internal finish but unsure how big the job would get and epic tidyup.
SirG - how do Hurricane Vents work better then other vents? Wonder if worth swapping out Seabird Ventillator/s for them or just add to a new location
The hurricane is a very practical went based on simple physics. It has a float inside which when water comes over the deck closes before water could sweep below and when the water pressure seases keeping the float closed it opens and let's air circulate. The went is only a link in a chain which includes the slightly open hatches, the blue hatch covers and the design of the yacht.
The other important thing about my yacht is the open plan design.
It was designed by Graham Radford under Joe Adams's tutelage and if one looks at other Radford designs, one can understand. Open design where air is not locked in by separate locked rooms, bolted bilge covers which are impossible to areate.
I always lift my bilge covers leave them open when l leave the boat. Also open the cabin and bathroom doors to create one single room.
The other thing is no carpets, no curtains no textiles (it is easy, l am single, no finework is forced on me {sorry sensitive males and girls
} ) which could get mouldy. Dry sails in the sail locker!only!
Bilge must be bone dry too. If it is not, there is something wrong.
Frequent use helps too.
Select to expand quotedism said..
Ringle - think you're onto something there. Take you ages?
Thinking of doing this to my chop-strand internal finish but unsure how big the job would get and epic tidyup.
SirG - how do Hurricane Vents work better then other vents? Wonder if worth swapping out Seabird Ventillator/s for them or just add to a new location
I ripped off all the glued on carpet, tried acetone etc for removing contact cement and ended up with small grinder to prepare surface. Started using high build epoxy then realised flowcoat would be easier/cheaper (poor mans' high build primer). Then I finished surface with 2 pack polyurethanes.
Yes... epic dust production and epic tidy up. All cushions sails etc off, use green tape to seal gaps at cupboard doors and drawers. cheap plastic drop sheet taped over motor. Respirator/overalls of course. Cheap shop vac (bunnings $80) and even with paper bag it will be RS by the time the fiberglass dust has found its way through the bearings.
17 years later the finish is still as new. It's down below out of the sun so it will last indefinitely.
Select to expand quoteRingle said..dism said..
Ringle - think you're onto something there. Take you ages?
Thinking of doing this to my chop-strand internal finish but unsure how big the job would get and epic tidyup.
SirG - how do Hurricane Vents work better then other vents? Wonder if worth swapping out Seabird Ventillator/s for them or just add to a new location
I ripped off all the glued on carpet, tried acetone etc for removing contact cement and ended up with small grinder to prepare surface. Started using high build epoxy then realised flowcoat would be easier/cheaper (poor mans' high build primer). Then I finished surface with 2 pack polyurethanes.
Yes... epic dust production and epic tidy up. All cushions sails etc off, use green tape to seal gaps at cupboard doors and drawers. cheap plastic drop sheet taped over motor. Respirator/overalls of course. Cheap shop vac (bunnings $80) and even with paper bag it will be RS by the time the fiberglass dust has found its way through the bearings.
17 years later the finish is still as new. It's down below out of the sun so it will last indefinitely.
Your discripition of that job sounds horendise!
I went to Bunnings and brought one can of quick grip , 3 rolls of textured wall paper and a can of light grey antibacterial easycoat single pack paint.
The forward v berth cabin was completed within a couple of hours, no dust, no grief ,no sweat!
Southace - your procedure sounds simpler and more likely to get done.
From my readings this week on mould, seems it likes paper. Assuming the paint sinks thru to glue-side of paper to countact all the dark hollows behind/wetpaper etc?
Any issues with wallpaper clogging the bilge?
Checked progress of mould destruction program, starting to win. Sprayed alot more tea tree spray around and left curtains ajar for light, no obvious sign of new mould. All doors now open into one airspace
Just need to get remaining last bilge water in that impossible to reach/crammed space between sides and manual bilge pickup
Next step more airholes in doors/cupboards, more ventilation fixtures and vent the lazarette that is manky
Dunno mate the paper is all sealed behind the paint now ....it's only been about 4 weeks now so time will tell.
