Select to expand quotesouthace said..2bish said..southace said..2bish said..southace said..2bish said..
I've got a spot between the drawers and aft cabin bulkhead where I can route the controller. I just ran out of time to complete the job. I've got some new cable for it ready to go. I'm tempted to move the controller wire plug closer to the heater end of the loom, but a simple rotary style controller and mount that instead of the LCD one. That way I can still plug the LCD controller in for trouble shooting or tuning. We've opted to use the controller in the hertz mode rather than the thermostat mode anyway, that gives us much better control. What mode are you using yours in?
Yes the heating air intake is in the aft cabin at floor level. We have five small ports in that aft cabin, so I just leave one cracked open to draw in fresh air, it seems to work well, and that'd just 100mm ducting and a vent from Bunnings, both inexpensive.
I use it in hertz mode. Around 2 hertz once cabin is warm and 3 or so hertz when it's really cold. The second speed fan doesn't cut in until about over 3 hertz. There is away to change the fan speed settings but I prefer not to change the settings.
Yes I think using the hertz settings is the way to go. We're mostly ok using high 5.5 on startup for 10 mins and then knocking it back to the 1.6 lowest setting, occasionally giving it a burst to 2 or 2.5 if we're in and out of the boat a bit. Thanks for the inspiration SA, I'm very happy I did the install.
I have a my first problem! The washing machine plastic grey water hose fell onto the S/S hotpipe and melted onto the pipe. Now I have the smell off burning plastic while using the heater. Seems impossible to clean off so I may need to change the hotpipe over with some spare I have. Gotta love boats!
Sounds like the best option, hard to get rid of those smells otherwise. I thought we had a fan noise problem this afternoon. Turns out it was a fish farm, some of their water works sounds travel a long distance and really resonate through the hull. We're in Randalls Bay for the night after a lovely sail this arvo. There's a fish farm sitting out in the mouth of the Huon River, not far from us, that's where the occasional noise is coming from. It's ok now, but hopefully doesn't start up in the middle of the night. Partridge Island is the worst. The first time we moored there for the night we thought the boat was taking water, there was a really loud rushing water sound. I believe it's from a fresh water pipeline they have running out of Dover across the channel the farms, probably 7-8 km long. It's made that anchorage unusable for us. Sooner we kick them offshore/onshore the better I reckon, they're just turning a really special environment into an industrial estate.
Another thing I've noticed with the controller is that when I turn the heater on, once it's done it start up properly and settled down, it will return to whatever temperature it was when last turned off. So if I turn it off when on low 1.6 htz, it goes back to that.
Yes I get it with the controller. Same as mine not a bad feature. I think there's a timer to turn the heater on as well but I haven't bothered trying to translate the Chinese English interpretation with the Manuel just to hard.
The new boat has a original German made heater with what I can see a simular hot pipe run length as yours. Will be intresting to see how it performs. Also has about 6 ducts throughout including the midships head and shower.
I have seen those fish farms in tassie , the port lincoln tuna farms are mostly out in the gulf but we have growing mulloway, kingfish and salmon farms around the bays and islands and growing bigger all the time!
Port Lincoln only grow Tuna and Kingfish. The sites inside Boston Bay (mainly outside of Spalding) and in close up at Louth, and soon to be in Fitzgerald Bay (near Point Lowly) grow Kingfish and the ones between Boston Island and the Sir Joseph Banks Group are all Tuna.
All Tassie grows Salmon only.
Select to expand quotedralyagmas said..southace said..2bish said..southace said..2bish said..southace said..2bish said..
I've got a spot between the drawers and aft cabin bulkhead where I can route the controller. I just ran out of time to complete the job. I've got some new cable for it ready to go. I'm tempted to move the controller wire plug closer to the heater end of the loom, but a simple rotary style controller and mount that instead of the LCD one. That way I can still plug the LCD controller in for trouble shooting or tuning. We've opted to use the controller in the hertz mode rather than the thermostat mode anyway, that gives us much better control. What mode are you using yours in?
Yes the heating air intake is in the aft cabin at floor level. We have five small ports in that aft cabin, so I just leave one cracked open to draw in fresh air, it seems to work well, and that'd just 100mm ducting and a vent from Bunnings, both inexpensive.
I use it in hertz mode. Around 2 hertz once cabin is warm and 3 or so hertz when it's really cold. The second speed fan doesn't cut in until about over 3 hertz. There is away to change the fan speed settings but I prefer not to change the settings.
Yes I think using the hertz settings is the way to go. We're mostly ok using high 5.5 on startup for 10 mins and then knocking it back to the 1.6 lowest setting, occasionally giving it a burst to 2 or 2.5 if we're in and out of the boat a bit. Thanks for the inspiration SA, I'm very happy I did the install.
I have a my first problem! The washing machine plastic grey water hose fell onto the S/S hotpipe and melted onto the pipe. Now I have the smell off burning plastic while using the heater. Seems impossible to clean off so I may need to change the hotpipe over with some spare I have. Gotta love boats!
Sounds like the best option, hard to get rid of those smells otherwise. I thought we had a fan noise problem this afternoon. Turns out it was a fish farm, some of their water works sounds travel a long distance and really resonate through the hull. We're in Randalls Bay for the night after a lovely sail this arvo. There's a fish farm sitting out in the mouth of the Huon River, not far from us, that's where the occasional noise is coming from. It's ok now, but hopefully doesn't start up in the middle of the night. Partridge Island is the worst. The first time we moored there for the night we thought the boat was taking water, there was a really loud rushing water sound. I believe it's from a fresh water pipeline they have running out of Dover across the channel the farms, probably 7-8 km long. It's made that anchorage unusable for us. Sooner we kick them offshore/onshore the better I reckon, they're just turning a really special environment into an industrial estate.
Another thing I've noticed with the controller is that when I turn the heater on, once it's done it start up properly and settled down, it will return to whatever temperature it was when last turned off. So if I turn it off when on low 1.6 htz, it goes back to that.
Yes I get it with the controller. Same as mine not a bad feature. I think there's a timer to turn the heater on as well but I haven't bothered trying to translate the Chinese English interpretation with the Manuel just to hard.
The new boat has a original German made heater with what I can see a simular hot pipe run length as yours. Will be intresting to see how it performs. Also has about 6 ducts throughout including the midships head and shower.
I have seen those fish farms in tassie , the port lincoln tuna farms are mostly out in the gulf but we have growing mulloway, kingfish and salmon farms around the bays and islands and growing bigger all the time!
Port Lincoln only grow Tuna and Kingfish. The sites inside Boston Bay (mainly outside of Spalding) and in close up at Louth, and soon to be in Fitzgerald Bay (near Point Lowly) grow Kingfish and the ones between Boston Island and the Sir Joseph Banks Group are all Tuna.
All Tassie grows Salmon only.
Cleanseas are farming mulloway and trial run of Australian salmon now as well. I have lived there and worked around the industry for 10 years.
www.seafoodsource.com/news/environment-sustainability/kingfish-mulloway-certified-sustainable-by-friend-of-the-sea
Just bought one of these heaters and planning the installation, Is there any reason why you cant run them direct from the second outlet on primary fuel filter/water separator? With isolating valve which I would have turned off when engine is running?
The fuel pumps act as a check valve so I couldn't see the motor sucking air in if I forget to shut heater valve.
Would save trying to fit a 10lt diesel tank in the engine compartment.
Thanks.
Select to expand quoteSeadevil said..
Just bought one of these heaters and planning the installation, Is there any reason why you cant run them direct from the second outlet on primary fuel filter/water separator? With isolating valve which I would have turned off when engine is running?
The fuel pumps act as a check valve so I couldn't see the motor sucking air in if I forget to shut heater valve.
Would save trying to fit a 10lt diesel tank in the engine compartment.
Thanks.
I'm convinced that you could. I'm drawing up with a oil pump to fill my day tank works well and at least I can keep note on what I'm using from my main tank. Edit, I have used 70 litres since 7th July full time livaboard.
Select to expand quoteSeadevil said..
Just bought one of these heaters and planning the installation, Is there any reason why you cant run them direct from the second outlet on primary fuel filter/water separator? With isolating valve which I would have turned off when engine is running?
The fuel pumps act as a check valve so I couldn't see the motor sucking air in if I forget to shut heater valve.
Would save trying to fit a 10lt diesel tank in the engine compartment.
Thanks.
Hi Seadevil, that's a great idea, the only comment I would make is to be certain that there's no undue pressure in the line from the fuel filter/separator. The heaters have a tiny little pump that could be affected. Let us know how it goes? Are you up with the requirements for combustion exhaust and combustion air intake runs? It's prudent to upgrade the wiring loom battery run to thicker gauge wires as part of the install too.
I've been putting together some notes for installation of the heaters. If you have anything to add or correct, PM me and I'll do so.
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gOki9ZP5AAsdXzX0Rq1FUnxTu9YZEhVu9mUjr7tVGbI/edit?usp=sharing
Southace and 2bish thanks for replies, I have been watching all of the youtube videos by John and they are very informative, I have a catamaran so I am going to mount heater in rear cavity lust inboard of port motor, going to suspend it from cockpit floor exhaust will then run down at approx 45 degrees to skin fitting which will either exit into hull tunnel or transom ( I will decide when heater is mounted ) I am not going to use muffler, space is pretty tight for the exhaust run but I shouldn't need pipe any longer than supplied with unit, I am also going to wrap it in fibreglass exhaust wrap for insulation.
The hot air duct is going to be a challenge (aren't all boat jobs!) but I have found some 75mm aluminium ducting from Pacific Air which doesn't cost a fortune, (3m $23 plus del) I will lag this also with insulation.
Wiring is already 6mm.
I am also going to put a Carbon monoxide alarm in the engine room area for peace of mind.
2bish; I will take photo's and notes and pass on any tips for your spreadsheet as I go along. I am putting the heater in as we plan to head to Tassie this November and the boss feels the cold.
Hi All,
Heater is in, fuel line tapped off engine prefilter and we have just been away for a week and Have been running heater for a couple of hours morning and night and so far I have not noticed any problems with either heater or engine. So at this stage I will not be using the supplied tank.
The boss thinks it is the best boat modification and makes winter nights very comfortable. Only need to run heater on low setting to keep saloon and cabin warm, as per youtube video's I run it on high for 10 mins before shutdown.
Also don't bother with the aluminium duct from Pacific air as when you try and stretch it out and fit around fittings etc the spiral seam will keep separating (Lesson learned again, pay more-cry less)
Select to expand quoteSeadevil said..
Hi All,
Heater is in, fuel line tapped off engine prefilter and we have just been away for a week and Have been running heater for a couple of hours morning and night and so far I have not noticed any problems with either heater or engine. So at this stage I will not be using the supplied tank.
The boss thinks it is the best boat modification and makes winter nights very comfortable. Only need to run heater on low setting to keep saloon and cabin warm, as per youtube video's I run it on high for 10 mins before shutdown.
Also don't bother with the aluminium duct from Pacific air as when you try and stretch it out and fit around fittings etc the spiral seam will keep separating (Lesson learned again, pay more-cry less)
Well done! Yes, they are a game-changer, I think I've been out and away maybe 20 days sailing since my install. I no longer think about how cold it will be when I'm considering a trip, just how wet 
. Shoot through any notes etc that you think would be helpful for the spreadsheet via PM anytime.
