Hi I fitted the second keel to Defiance at Trehanes Boatsheds in November/December 1973 . The method learnt while serving my apprenticeship at Douglas Brooker Custom Yachts was. Whilst upside down the keel flat on the hull that the lead keel was to be latter attached was built straight and level .When it came to joining the hull to the lead keel the process was , keel was setup vertical and the top face planed straight and level, as per a template 1 inch holes were then drilled into the lead and also the hull perpendicular to the two surfaces .
The hull was placed over the lead keel with mixture of polyester resin and talc between and the 1 inch silicone bronze bolts driven down from inside the yacht ,we only ever used 1 inch bolts because we only had one 3/4 drive socket. How true you had drilled the bolt holes was determined by how many hardwood blocks were used between the bolt head and the sledgehammer when the bolts driven in. The nuts were tightened before the polyester set. The hull and lead keel were together as two mating surfaces with no room for any movement between them. Because the two surfaces were true to each other the Kees went on straight. The following day nut were removed individually from the inside and caulking cotton grommets were installed under the washers with some silicone .
50+ years later l still get involved with fitting ballast keels which have got many times deeper in draft and with minimal attachment area to the bottom of the hull and I still believe you need hard matting surfaces and not something with a flexible sealant between.
Select to expand quoterowc said..
Hi I fitted the second keel to Defiance at Trehanes Boatsheds in November/December 1973 . The method learnt while serving my apprenticeship at Douglas Brooker Custom Yachts was. Whilst upside down the keel flat on the hull that the lead keel was to be latter attached was built straight and level .When it came to joining the hull to the lead keel the process was , keel was setup vertical and the top face planed straight and level, as per a template 1 inch holes were then drilled into the lead and also the hull perpendicular to the two surfaces .
The hull was placed over the lead keel with mixture of polyester resin and talc between and the 1 inch silicone bronze bolts driven down from inside the yacht ,we only ever used 1 inch bolts because we only had one 3/4 drive socket. How true you had drilled the bolt holes was determined by how many hardwood blocks were used between the bolt head and the sledgehammer when the bolts driven in. The nuts were tightened before the polyester set. The hull and lead keel were together as two mating surfaces with no room for any movement between them. Because the two surfaces were true to each other the Kees went on straight. The following day nut were removed individually from the inside and caulking cotton grommets were installed under the washers with some silicone .
50+ years later l still get involved with fitting ballast keels which have got many times deeper in draft and with minimal attachment area to the bottom of the hull and I still believe you need hard matting surfaces and not something with a flexible sealant between.
Rowe, there is a story over on southernwoodenboats.com.au with more pics.
Looks straight to me!
Hope I am getting the details right by the way and thanks for your help.
