Next time I buy a yacht I will remind myself all the work should be done!
First coat of primer applied to my new handmade removable hinged doors and stormboard.
Will be finished in 2pack polyurethane white complements to the local crash repair shop.
Now I just need to get in the habit of locking the boat after 3.5 years!
Yep! I like to walk in! , not so keen on climbing over and down into the dark depths of a hull.
There's lots of old school silly designs on this yacht Which makes it unfortantly hard yakker for a youngish lad to modernise! But it's kind of rewarding!
Talk about old school, check out the pop hole that my old boat came with
So while I fixed that little bit of rot in the corner of the dodger ! I tried to make things less squeezey
Much better now
Nice job at least you don't have to climb down a hole and ladder to get below! It amazes me to see the expensive swan 44s etc ....with a hole and a ladder to climb down! Bugger that 3 steps for me and I'm below decks now!
Select to expand quoteAgent nods said..
Totally agree....two steps, no ladder!
Gee that's nice ...couldn't do it with the crap marine ply Bunnings sells so has to be white! Would be nice to see the locking arrangement. Nods.
Harp and staple....similar to yours,except for the harp coming from the sliding hatch cover.
Security on boats is a misnomer...a crowbar or even a large screwdriver will remove most fittings (small phillips head in your case, the hinges are on the wrong side of the door).
Thieves are very unlikely to steal your boat. (How long to find all the water cocks, turn the batteries on, and hot wire the ignition etc). Their more likely just to take sale-able items of the boat. The least damage they make on the way in the better off you are.
I have a paddle lock that not locked, you just want to make it look like there are easier targets to steal from.
Nice work Southace. Question - whats the best timber for a stormboard? Not knowing anything about timber I made a beautiful one varnished and all from marine ply (Bunnings!) 3 years ago and now its warped and wont slide in and out.
Select to expand quoteTrek said..
Nice work Southace. Question - whats the best timber for a stormboard? Not knowing anything about timber I made a beautiful one varnished and all from marine ply (Bunnings!) 3 years ago and now its warped and wont slide in and out.
I would have thought marine ply is perfect for the job. It should be the most stable timber material you can buy. Sometimes lower grade plywood with waterproof glue is sold as marine ply. I thought marine ply should be made from select and matched AA veneers on every layer. That way there are no voids inside the laminate and consistent characteristics for each veneer which minimise warping.
Select to expand quoteTrek said..
Question - whats the best timber for a stormboard? Not knowing anything about timber I made a beautiful one varnished and all from marine ply (Bunnings!) 3 years ago and now its warped and wont slide in and out.
Nothing wrong with Bunnings marine ply, or any other ply made with waterproof glue for that matter if you treat it right. Give it a couple of coats of slow epoxy , ( extra slow if you want to clear coat it ) then once cured coat it with a 2 pack polyurethane . For a stormboard I'd also cover it with a layer of 200gm cloth to make it bump proof. I also glued some extruded polystryrene board on the back of mine to give it extra strength, better flotation and double as a life buoy. 
Yep what harb said if it's glassed up with epoxy it should be good. Bunnings marine ply ?? Clear veneers & no voids ? I've looked at it a few times and always grin and leave it.
On the cheap marine ply caper if you can find a local stocker of dragon brand ply ( yes it even has a dragon as its stamp) and it's made you know where, with a British standards number which like our AS isn't worth a pinch of dragon poo to manufactures outside of Britain or Australia NZ, anyway it's the goods, Can be a bit splitty on the saw cuts ,I've cut up lots of it and no voids, it's reasonably stiff glues well and less than half the price of Aussie hoop pine ply, which by the way is excellent stuff but a tad heavy.
After a break in last year I went for a full panel of aluminium checkerplate in aluminium c channel still not Fort Knox but it looks the part. I have a 3 piece acrylic board for on board use.
Select to expand quoteWander66 said..
After a break in last year I went for a full panel of aluminium checkerplate in aluminium c channel still not Fort Knox but it looks the part. I have a 3 piece acrylic board for on board use.
It is that thin that Wander and I used it as a wobble board and sang "Tie Me Kangaroo Down Sport" together at the last party we had on his boat.
Sorry to rain on your parade Southace but did you check the structure before ripping out the bridgedeck? The boat now has no deck crossbracing forward of the cockpit and it used to have a really strong box beam there. (I can't tell if the bridgedeck went all the way across the underdeck).
If you go sailing and the companionway boards get tight on one tack, or when you go over waves, you may want to consider putting some sort of reinforcement back in.
Cheers
Phil
Select to expand quoteKankama said..
Sorry to rain on your parade Southace but did you check the structure before ripping out the bridgedeck? The boat now has no deck crossbracing forward of the cockpit and it used to have a really strong box beam there. (I can't tell if the bridgedeck went all the way across the underdeck).
If you go sailing and the companionway boards get tight on one tack, or when you go over waves, you may want to consider putting some sort of reinforcement back in.
Cheers
Phil
cant agree more
Oh my only concern was if I found myself a 100kg plus size girlfriend that when she's steps through my companion way (if she fits) that my poor Icon would cave in upon her! It was in my dream and I woke up in a cold sweat!
Question is "Would a 100 kg barge arse even fit through the doors?"
You could fit the required bracing bar in and she might trip through head first. Could be an oral opportunity there??
I was rather concerned about the structural intergraty of my companionway doors so today I added some carbon fibre 200 gm skin!
3 steps and I'm on deck! And four barrel bolts at $43 x 4 bucks each to lock down!
It's looking real good see how I go with the starboard door that's going to be a bit more tricky. $50 bucks does the two doors , just a test See how it goes !
I think having the carbon doors will strengthen the Bridge deck! Also it lightens up the ship 30% lighter than aluminium!
