Hi all
My Walker Sailmaster 845 was built here in Tassie by Central Marine who also built Doven 30's
Were the Walker H28'S only built by Walker or did others build them as well
Regards Don
Select to expand quoteDonk107 said..
Hi all
My Walker Sailmaster 845 was built here in Tassie by Central Marine who also built Doven 30's
Were the Walker H28'S only built by Walker or did others build them as well
Regards Don
I think towards the end some were bare hull and perhaps the mold were sold on . Im not to sure how it went Donk but some of the last one built I think were bare hulls
David Ryan of Ryan Sails at Yaringa. Had them about three years and would not be without them. Low profile and bird proof!
Select to expand quoteJabberwock said..
David Ryan of Ryan Sails at Yaringa. Had them about three years and would not be without them. Low profile and bird proof!
Thanks Jabber Ive sent him a email 
They look sweet
Walker H28 Halyard question
I'm converting my Walker from the original wire halyards to Spectra . My question is what diameter spectra are being used 6 mm or 8 mm?
Do you need to replace the sheaths to suit or can you still use the original sheaths?
Bubbles, I see you have refurbed the engine and also the cutless bearing. Would be really interesting to hear how you did these jobs. Like how did you remove/replace the engine? On the slips, lr did you manage to do it at a pontoon? Cutless bearing replacement?
Select to expand quoteYara said..
Bubbles, I see you have refurbed the engine and also the cutless bearing. Would be really interesting to hear how you did these jobs. Like how did you remove/replace the engine? On the slips, lr did you manage to do it at a pontoon? Cutless bearing replacement?
I dont think Bubbles has replaced his motor he has an extra motor he is rebuilding in his sparetime
Haydn, What sort of shaft seal do you have? The original stuffing box type? How are you planning to remove your motor? I guess not having a fixed spray hood that is one less job to do. Bubbles video shows him moving the propellor shaft sideways by hand inside the boat. (Coupling undone.)
I am interested in the setup for the prop shaft. Is it just one cutlass bearing at the prop end, or is there another one aft of the stuffing box?
Select to expand quoteYara said..
Haydn, What sort of shaft seal do you have? The original stuffing box type? How are you planning to remove your motor? I guess not having a fixed spray hood that is one less job to do. Bubbles video shows him moving the propellor shaft sideways by hand inside the boat. (Coupling undone.)
I am interested in the setup for the prop shaft. Is it just one cutlass bearing at the prop end, or is there another one aft of the stuffing box?
Im not to sure what or how many cutlass bearibng it has .Im fitting a PSS seal when I pull the DV20 out next year and Ill clena up the engine room throughly then.
The DV 20 runs ok but I was going to freshen it up next year and when the DV24 came up thought it would be a good swap out and it gives me plenty if thine to give it a minor over haul
question concerning mast fitting on Walkers
Some of these fittings seem to be walker only I would have preferred to buy complete units but it appears to be not source-able any ideas you guys .
One other question what size rigging wire is fitted to your walkers? mine is 1/4 on the main mast . Would 6 mm be sufficient?
<div>yeah I haven't replaced the motor.. ii done the engine mounts by lifting the engine with lengths of timber over the quarter births and using a bolt locked onto chain that when I screwed up lifted the engine.
the cutlass bearing was some composite material that I carefully cut out with a hacksaw. the new cutless bearing fitted on fine with no cooling just a rubber mallet.. you need to take the rudder off before you can remove the prop shaft.
also when removing the rudder the top mount that holds the rudder on is so hard to get to without an inspection port cut into the back of the cockpit. however my solution that worked really well was tape the nut to spanner and then tape a small inspection usb camera to the spanner ( $20 ) off ebay then you can see the bolt and place it on top and then get someone on the other side to turn the bolt onto the thread of the nut. made an impossible job doable without the need to start cutting into the boat which I always try and avoid.
For those interested, I inspected Walker H28 "Crested Tern" in Pittwater a couple of weeks ago. For sale at $35k and pretty firm. She has new rigging but original motor. A beautifully crafted owner- build fitout, with head at the foot of companionway starboard side. So far so good.
However, the luxurious wrap-around settee destroys the saloon berths, and makes access to the fore- cabin difficult. Bulkheads around the engine, and the head compartment make engine maintenance a puzzle. To suit my wants, I would have to take a saw and angle grinder to quite a few areas. I would not pay top dollars for a boat that you have to do that to.
Conclusion, leave the lovely woodwork to someone who wants a day sailing boat, and can pay professionals to maintain the engine.
Select to expand quoteYara said..
For those interested, I inspected Walker H28 "Crested Tern" in Pittwater a couple of weeks ago. For sale at $35k and pretty firm. She has new rigging but original motor. A beautifully crafted owner- build fitout, with head at the foot of companionway starboard side. So far so good.
However, the luxurious wrap-around settee destroys the saloon berths, and makes access to the fore- cabin difficult. Bulkheads around the engine, and the head compartment make engine maintenance a puzzle. To suit my wants, I would have to take a saw and angle grinder to quite a few areas. I would not pay top dollars for a boat that you have to do that to.
Conclusion, leave the lovely woodwork to someone who wants a day sailing boat, and can pay professionals to maintain the engine.
The advantage on crested tern to me the way hes done the saloon birth is the mast has a support post directly from the keel I do prefer the original settee's.
I kept bumping my head as the cabin roof drops down before the forward cabin . Thats one of the reasons I have a double birth in the forward cabin.
I intend to make a mattress that can be removed easily from the forward cabin and fits snug on the floor between the settee's the best place to sleep
The forward cabin for me will be a place to store extra solar panels when under sail and fitted at anchor . and storage for other items. Im happy the way Ive set up the slide out table Mangofrog and I used it before we left Port Philip bay. It worked a treat and the storage draw under the the forward cabin double bunk is great for storage. Its still has to be finished off . I have some louver doors which Ill cut down to suit and the draw underneath will have a fixed louvered door to match.
To excess the table you open the top double louvered door slide out the table and close the door so the forward cabin wont be exposed .
I removed one stern bunk and can step over the head and lay on my side comfortably to excess the engine compartment with out any trouble or stress .
As I get older and less nimble Ill need such things .
Ill be sliding the Bukh Dv 20 motor & gear box out into the cabin tomorrow and will start cleaning the bilge before a nice white paint out by the time I'm finished my PSS prop shaft seal should be here to fit. And while Im in there I will paint out and tidy where Ive removed the port side stern bunk. As well as using it to work on the motor Ill make it a storage area as well for light bulky items that can be removed easily and quickly so if I ever need to work on the back of the motor.
Below is an old photo but you can see on the right hand side of the photo where the bunk was
Not sure If I can do it but I'm also hoping to use the table in the cock pit if I can.
I am thinking of utilizing the other stern bunk area as a navigation area some one has done it to a walker and I think the Saga Kahn Walker a larger 31 foot had a similar navigation station in that area
Some thing like this below but I wont be doing this till every thing else is complete ( basic idea)
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
HG...........On smaller yachts as most of us have here I think there should only be two tables, both of which should be multi functional.
The first is the tide table. It's primary function is as a navigation aid. Beyond that the time passed pages have a multitude of uses. We are talking about the hard copy printed version here of course.
The cover and past pages can be used as gasket material if needed. Cut them up into drink coasters that become a conversation piece. If you scrunch the sheets up enough you can make them almost as soft as toilet paper. A few pages balled up can be good fire starters.
The uses of out of date tide table pages is near endless. You are paying $10 to $15 for them so why not get the most out of them?? Shoot!!! If you saved them up for a few hundred years you could have a boat full of them that you could sell to the paper recyclers for a fortune. 
The other table for smaller yachts is the more substantial one that can handle being sat on among other things, such as the one you have in the pic.
The mind boggles. It is dining, chart, bar, massage, medical emergency, sewing and more table and more. I dare not mention the sexual antics one could perform on that table.
In racing circles, table tops are often accepted as part of the emergency rudder equipment for racing category certification.
You have one of the best tables I have ever seen on a yacht HG. Great bit of thinking.
There's not a lot of room on a 30 foot boat so you have the make every thing do more than just on use.
While Mangrove frog and my self were using it I had the same thought Cisco. it works for me and it slides away with out a lot of space taken up.
And as you cant walk into the forward cabin any more you don't bump your head.
I sort of got over bumping my head on a old wooden boat up north a few years ago every time I went to get up from the table Id bump my head on a Carlin above
you get really p**s off when you continually do it every night 
