Select to expand quoter13 said..
If any and all doubt wanted to be expelled you could join here and ask - fairly sure that this is the Aust Northshore FB Group not the US one which are a different oem - Jules will confirm.
www.facebook.com/groups/NorthshoreOwnersGroup/
regards Rob
Yep that's the one :)
Very nice late model/ready to go SpaceSailer 24 - with sliding hatch - at Church Point,with chance ? of mooring. Yachthub
Has diesel,but easy option for outboard with removal transom door .
( Sorry,but not smart enough to do link yet )
Select to expand quoteRamona My personal pick is this Ohlson 35 which is just as good a boat as an SS34..
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/ohlson-35-masthead-sloop/300544
I love that boat.
With your background you may find Compii etc a bit too pedestrian, especially given the big overlapping headsail which will have to be furled in a breeze and therefore inefficient.
For some reason I'm having trouble copying links, but on Yachthub there's a Hutton 28 that could do with aesthetic work down below, but looks good from outside. They're actually a development of a quarter tonner, much hacked about and not beautiful IMHO, but they're not a bad combination of good interior size and decent speed, with a fractional rig to allow easy depowering. I had a mate with a good all-round sailing background who was happy with his one. At $11000 with a decade-old engine and rigging it sounds like very good value, and the lazyjacks, boom bag and fully battened main make life incredibly easy. It looks like a handyman could put in a bulkhead to separate the head from the vee berth pretty easily, which makes a huge difference IMHO. My wife and I aren't fussy but we have found that even a cramped separate head is vastly better than no separate head.
Lots more pace than the skinnier older-style boats, significantly quicker for coastal jaunts, and if you handle it like a dinghy then it could be easier to handle. This particular Hutton 28 used to be a regular in the offshore fleet when it was new so it's not a paperweight even if some of the joinery looks rough.
Personally I find it better to upgrade an interior with timber trim than to upgrade an exterior, which normally requires expensive slip time and can result in either having to pay for a pro or risking a horrendous amateur paint job. I had a 28'er for years; it's a great size of boat because it can fit in all the features of a bigger yacht but you're a ton or so lighter than a typical 30 footer so everything is one or two sizes down and so is the budget and the weight of the gear. We love our 36'er but you can't do things like play the mainsheet when zapping home in front of a big nor'easter in the way you can do it with a 28'er.
Select to expand quoteChris 249 said..
With your background you may find Compii etc a bit too pedestrian, especially given the big overlapping headsail which will have to be furled in a breeze and therefore inefficient.
For some reason I'm having trouble copying links, but on Yachthub there's a Hutton 28 that could do with aesthetic work down below, but looks good from outside. They're actually a development of a quarter tonner, much hacked about and not beautiful IMHO, but they're not a bad combination of good interior size and decent speed, with a fractional rig to allow easy depowering. I had a mate with a good all-round sailing background who was happy with his one. At $11000 with a decade-old engine and rigging it sounds like very good value, and the lazyjacks, boom bag and fully battened main make life incredibly easy. It looks like a handyman could put in a bulkhead to separate the head from the vee berth pretty easily, which makes a huge difference IMHO. My wife and I aren't fussy but we have found that even a cramped separate head is vastly better than no separate head.
Lots more pace than the skinnier older-style boats, significantly quicker for coastal jaunts, and if you handle it like a dinghy then it could be easier to handle. This particular Hutton 28 used to be a regular in the offshore fleet when it was new so it's not a paperweight even if some of the joinery looks rough.
Personally I find it better to upgrade an interior with timber trim than to upgrade an exterior, which normally requires expensive slip time and can result in either having to pay for a pro or risking a horrendous amateur paint job. I had a 28'er for years; it's a great size of boat because it can fit in all the features of a bigger yacht but you're a ton or so lighter than a typical 30 footer so everything is one or two sizes down and so is the budget and the weight of the gear. We love our 36'er but you can't do things like play the mainsheet when zapping home in front of a big nor'easter in the way you can do it with a 28'er.
I had one built by the Hutton brothers in the very early 80s and kept it for well over ten years. It sailed well (with the optional tall rig) and as you say it had plenty of room inside for the size but I sold it in the end because I didn't trust that the keel wouldn't fall off.
The keel is a hollow steel fabrication with lead poured in the bottom third or half (or probably however much they felt like on the day) with an outward facing flange welded on around the top and bolted up into the hull.
Despite my giving the hull three coats of epoxy before I ever anti fouled it and put it in the water every time I slipped it the keel showed signs of rust around the flange (and elsewhere) and as I didn't think the steel was particularly thick I eventually didn't trust it. When the ballast was poured into the keel it bowed the keel out more on one side than the other so it was not symmetric.
The hull and deck always seemed reasonably solid to me and certainly not what I would call light weight.
My boat has some Italian sounding name now and is still at Clareville on the same mooring I installed. It has been for sale for over two years (perhaps on and off) and at one stage it was advertised that the keel had been redone - whatever that means. The original chain plates were also a bit of a strange set up being bolted to the side of the coach house roof which in turn had an internal stainless steel bracket bolted to the main bulkhead. The main bulkhead was tabbed to the hull but only at its lower portions which I was never that happy with.
Anyway if you inspect these items and it looks solid the boat should be quite good although the timber skeg was not encased in anything waterproof and could be rotting and the thin guage stainless steel rudder was rather wavey and was always full of water.
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said..Chris 249 said..
With your background you may find Compii etc a bit too pedestrian, especially given the big overlapping headsail which will have to be furled in a breeze and therefore inefficient.
For some reason I'm having trouble copying links, but on Yachthub there's a Hutton 28 that could do with aesthetic work down below, but looks good from outside. They're actually a development of a quarter tonner, much hacked about and not beautiful IMHO, but they're not a bad combination of good interior size and decent speed, with a fractional rig to allow easy depowering. I had a mate with a good all-round sailing background who was happy with his one. At $11000 with a decade-old engine and rigging it sounds like very good value, and the lazyjacks, boom bag and fully battened main make life incredibly easy. It looks like a handyman could put in a bulkhead to separate the head from the vee berth pretty easily, which makes a huge difference IMHO. My wife and I aren't fussy but we have found that even a cramped separate head is vastly better than no separate head.
Lots more pace than the skinnier older-style boats, significantly quicker for coastal jaunts, and if you handle it like a dinghy then it could be easier to handle. This particular Hutton 28 used to be a regular in the offshore fleet when it was new so it's not a paperweight even if some of the joinery looks rough.
Personally I find it better to upgrade an interior with timber trim than to upgrade an exterior, which normally requires expensive slip time and can result in either having to pay for a pro or risking a horrendous amateur paint job. I had a 28'er for years; it's a great size of boat because it can fit in all the features of a bigger yacht but you're a ton or so lighter than a typical 30 footer so everything is one or two sizes down and so is the budget and the weight of the gear. We love our 36'er but you can't do things like play the mainsheet when zapping home in front of a big nor'easter in the way you can do it with a 28'er.
I had one built by the Hutton brothers in the very early 80s and kept it for well over ten years. It sailed well (with the optional tall rig) and as you say it had plenty of room inside for the size but I sold it in the end because I didn't trust that the keel wouldn't fall off.
The keel is a hollow steel fabrication with lead poured in the bottom third or half (or probably however much they felt like on the day) with an outward facing flange welded on around the top and bolted up into the hull.
Despite my giving the hull three coats of epoxy before I ever anti fouled it and put it in the water every time I slipped it the keel showed signs of rust around the flange (and elsewhere) and as I didn't think the steel was particularly thick I eventually didn't trust it. When the ballast was poured into the keel it bowed the keel out more on one side than the other so it was not symmetric.
The hull and deck always seemed reasonably solid to me and certainly not what I would call light weight.
My boat has some Italian sounding name now and is still at Clareville on the same mooring I installed. It has been for sale for over two years (perhaps on and off) and at one stage it was advertised that the keel had been redone - whatever that means. The original chain plates were also a bit of a strange set up being bolted to the side of the coach house roof which in turn had an internal stainless steel bracket bolted to the main bulkhead. The main bulkhead was tabbed to the hull but only at its lower portions which I was never that happy with.
Anyway if you inspect these items and it looks solid the boat should be quite good although the timber skeg was not encased in anything waterproof and could be rotting and the thin guage stainless steel rudder was rather wavey and was always full of water.
Interesting a lot of the things you brought up where similar to my thoughts on the Hutton
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said..Chris 249 said..
With your background you may find Compii etc a bit too pedestrian, especially given the big overlapping headsail which will have to be furled in a breeze and therefore inefficient.
For some reason I'm having trouble copying links, but on Yachthub there's a Hutton 28 that could do with aesthetic work down below, but looks good from outside. They're actually a development of a quarter tonner, much hacked about and not beautiful IMHO, but they're not a bad combination of good interior size and decent speed, with a fractional rig to allow easy depowering. I had a mate with a good all-round sailing background who was happy with his one. At $11000 with a decade-old engine and rigging it sounds like very good value, and the lazyjacks, boom bag and fully battened main make life incredibly easy. It looks like a handyman could put in a bulkhead to separate the head from the vee berth pretty easily, which makes a huge difference IMHO. My wife and I aren't fussy but we have found that even a cramped separate head is vastly better than no separate head.
Lots more pace than the skinnier older-style boats, significantly quicker for coastal jaunts, and if you handle it like a dinghy then it could be easier to handle. This particular Hutton 28 used to be a regular in the offshore fleet when it was new so it's not a paperweight even if some of the joinery looks rough.
Personally I find it better to upgrade an interior with timber trim than to upgrade an exterior, which normally requires expensive slip time and can result in either having to pay for a pro or risking a horrendous amateur paint job. I had a 28'er for years; it's a great size of boat because it can fit in all the features of a bigger yacht but you're a ton or so lighter than a typical 30 footer so everything is one or two sizes down and so is the budget and the weight of the gear. We love our 36'er but you can't do things like play the mainsheet when zapping home in front of a big nor'easter in the way you can do it with a 28'er.
I had one built by the Hutton brothers in the very early 80s and kept it for well over ten years. It sailed well (with the optional tall rig) and as you say it had plenty of room inside for the size but I sold it in the end because I didn't trust that the keel wouldn't fall off.
The keel is a hollow steel fabrication with lead poured in the bottom third or half (or probably however much they felt like on the day) with an outward facing flange welded on around the top and bolted up into the hull.
Despite my giving the hull three coats of epoxy before I ever anti fouled it and put it in the water every time I slipped it the keel showed signs of rust around the flange (and elsewhere) and as I didn't think the steel was particularly thick I eventually didn't trust it. When the ballast was poured into the keel it bowed the keel out more on one side than the other so it was not symmetric.
The hull and deck always seemed reasonably solid to me and certainly not what I would call light weight.
My boat has some Italian sounding name now and is still at Clareville on the same mooring I installed. It has been for sale for over two years (perhaps on and off) and at one stage it was advertised that the keel had been redone - whatever that means. The original chain plates were also a bit of a strange set up being bolted to the side of the coach house roof which in turn had an internal stainless steel bracket bolted to the main bulkhead. The main bulkhead was tabbed to the hull but only at its lower portions which I was never that happy with.
Anyway if you inspect these items and it looks solid the boat should be quite good although the timber skeg was not encased in anything waterproof and could be rotting and the thin guage stainless steel rudder was rather wavey and was always full of water.
Interesting stuff and I've got nothing like your depth of knowledge. The info about the bullhead chimes with the fact that the boat for sale has big gaps between the bulkhead and the deck moulding.
For the cash and given the OP's experience it seems to have lots of potential, which largely agrees with what you said.
So I've been reading a lot..
We're doing Day Skipper in the new year, so have decided as much as I'd like a boat now now, I'll wait for the right boat :)
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
My personal pick is this Ohlson 35 which is just as good a boat as an SS34 and usually sell for more than a SS34..
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/ohlson-35-masthead-sloop/300544
So I've been looking at models.. Ohlsen 35 looks like a very nice boat.. BUT it clearly needs $40k spent on it (my uneducated ballpark estimate from reading a lot here and elsewhere) or to be local to someone who can do much of it themselves.
Things it needs IMO:
All Seacocks (per description) and hoses
Standing rigging (probably)
Running rigging / winches redesign (nothing goes back to cockpit - would like reefs / halywards / vang / etc.)
Lazy jacks
Paint (looking at condition - probably back to gelcoat, faired, epoxied?)
Re-wiring (looks like temporary battery box in back of quarter berth)
New safety gear (! not to be skimped on!)
Sadly - my budget/location isn't compatible with that one at this stage.
Select to expand quoteWomblingFree said..Ramona said..
My personal pick is this Ohlson 35 which is just as good a boat as an SS34 and usually sell for more than a SS34..
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/ohlson-35-masthead-sloop/300544
So I've been looking at models.. Ohlsen 35 looks like a very nice boat.. BUT it clearly needs $40k spent on it (my uneducated ballpark estimate from reading a lot here and elsewhere) or to be local to someone who can do much of it themselves.
Things it needs IMO:
All Seacocks (per description) and hoses
Standing rigging (probably)
Running rigging / winches redesign (nothing goes back to cockpit - would like reefs / halywards / vang / etc.)
Lazy jacks
Paint (looking at condition - probably back to gelcoat, faired, epoxied?)
Re-wiring (looks like temporary battery box in back of quarter berth)
New safety gear (! not to be skimped on!)
Sadly - my budget/location isn't compatible with that one at this stage.
I would make an offer of 15 grand. I would replace the seacocks, probably only 3. Leave the topsides for later when you have the time and change to white. Buy 4 second hand winches for the aft end of the cabin and a handful of plastic 150mm cleats. Buy a heap of Spectra off eBay. Stitch up a stackpack/lazyjack combination. It will cost about $200 in Weathermax 80. Nylon tape and SS rings off eBay. Merbau garden edge strips from Bunnings to fix the interior up a bit. Should be sailing this summer for 20 grand.
This Ohlson 35 looks very much like the boat I was going to buy a few years ago in NZ. I chickened out on sailing back across the Tasman. At the time I was keenly following Claire Francis in "Golly" an Ohlson 38 which is very similar to the 35.
www.gollycorner.co.uk/d_06_yacht.htm
Select to expand quoteWomblingFree said..
So I've been reading a lot..
We're doing Day Skipper in the new year, so have decided as much as I'd like a boat now now, I'll wait for the right boat :)
So much for waiting.. stupid heart strings got tugged, and yesterday I officially registered as the new owner custodian of Apache, the Lotus 9.2 posted in the Interesting Boats thread, and also known to a bunch of people here.
Thanks all for the input - and thanks especially to Kay1982 and Cisco for their stewardship, maintenance, upgrades and also inspiring confidence in taking a leap into my own keel boat thanks to documentation.
I went for a sail on her earlier this week to seal the deal - she's a relaxing boat in near 20kts of wind.
I've been through the history, and am now figuring out how all the gadgets work by (gasp) reading the manuals.
And in the spirit of "pics or it didn't happen".. 
Congratulations!! I am sure you will grow to love Apache. She would have been romping in 20 knots of breeze.
Now is the time to do some practice drills. No1:- Changing out the cooling water pump, No2:- Reefing and changing head sails.
No3. Man overboard and heaving to.
Just a quick note. At the rear of the sump plate there is an elbow with a cock on it screwed into the sump. There is a cap that is normally screwed onto the cock. When changing the oil take the cap off and put the tube with the sump pump on to it. You still need to pump the oil out as there is not enough height for it to drain properly.
If you have any tech questions just message me.
