Got no hits in the surfing forum.
I have been fixing up the odd Gum-tree Specials over the past couple of months.
This has got me thinking about making a surfboard.
Does anyone know, or have a list of the required tools for the job? Thinking of something like this...
/images/misc/forum-image-missing.gif
I have seen a few starter kits online, however I don't know whats really required and or, whats overkill.
Also, who is the best person to grab a blank from on the Sunshine Coast?
Cheers.
Shortboard forum is a bit slow.
Head on over to Swaylocks for some reading. Plenty of MPH threads running and details from people who have built their own. There are some backyard guys on SB who have made Vaders (Tux and Dr Funk) - for example:
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Surfing/Shortboards/TOMO-Vader/
www.swaylocks.com/forums/someone-want-to-share-their-tomo-surfboard-dimensions
forum.realsurf.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=21326&sid=659b5119a8d39d05f09b5c1913752d35
Easy. Some more info on starting here:
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Surfing/Shortboards/Start-Shaping-but-where-to-start/
But yeah, Swaylocks is the go.
There's a guy on kiteforum.com building those boards...they look epic. And he's just some guy working from his shed.
Yeah. Kiteforum has a board builders section.
Yourl need to do a heavier layup than a surfboard only build. So the advice of the surfboard shapers will have to be adapted to kite surf needs.
I build tt style construction so am of little use for surfboard layups.
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..
There's a guy on kiteforum.com building those boards...they look epic. And he's just some guy working from his shed.
Pretty sure the guy in on here too.
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kitesurfing/General/Slater-Designs-Omni-as-a-kiteboard-any-thoughts/#1889330
TomW059
Hey,
i'Ve made a few boards in my time, all you need is
a shaping bench which you can make yourself like two yokes out of wood, two paint cans aNe concrete
a lightweight electric planer
a long ruler
a router
a smaller hand plane for the stringer
a wood saw
a squeegee for laminating
cardboard for template making
sandpaper, stick it on a piece of wood about 400mm long, have different ones with multiple grades, 2 or 3
cant remember the name of it but it is like stiff sand paper but with holes though it like gauze for inal shaping of the rails but you Cound get away with emery paper
a long straight edge to measure the rocker
a board calliper which you can buy online or your local board blank supplier
a carpenters scribe to mark out the rail shape
A good eye and patience
cheers
Rich
ps I may have forgotten a couple of items
^^ great advice from all up here
I'd just be aware as well that the tomo boards have a lot of funky stuff going on, on the bottoms. Definitely try to get your hands on the one u like in a store, and get all hand friendly over it to get a feel for what's going on.Don't be afraid if the first one or two don't come out right. That's the shaping addiction (or so I hear, I don't do it enough sadly!), trying and trying again!
Also glassing those channels and stuff can be really difficult too. If you nail a blank and it feels like a keeper, consider getting it done by a pro. Still your shape, but will be sweetly finished and you might be able to watch and get some pointers.
Have fun!
Your first board should be a very basic minimal maaaaaybe a fish.
Not a tomo multi hull converted to a kiteboard beast thatd challenge most shapers.
Really you should just be comeing to terms with all your new tools and methods by just bringing a blank in a bit. Your going to need some fluros stacked horizontaly in your shed and am air compressor for cleaning up foam etc will help alot to.
Theres quite alot of expenses for your first. You may aswell make something you can catch waves with then your 2nd board can be a super crazy tomo that youll probably stuff up BUT it wont coat nesr as much as your first because blank and resin amd glass is probably like 400 a board where as that first one with all your tools will swt you back a grand id say. Go find a local shapeing bay to see what sort of set up is required.
hey Underoath
I have made a few surfboards in my time. Here is my recommendation.
- Download APS3000 or aku shaper software. Import a similar board to the one you want to create as an "Image board". This will allow you to copy the outline and rocker profile (if you have a side on shot).
- Export your board into the appropriate format (.brd format), email file to company that sells blanks and has a shaping machine (I have used Shapers at the gold coast, they ship too).
- If its your first time, use a conventional PU blank. No mucking around with spackle to seal the blank like with EPS.
- When your blank has been shaped by the machine, go pick it up, it will be about 90% complete. You just need to give it a once over to remove the tool cutting pattern, refine the rails and add any concave (i have never added any concave to the bottom, and my boards ride sweet).
- Glass your board using epoxy resin.
- I recommend a layup of 1 x 6oz on the bottom, with an extra layer in the tail area where the fins will be. On the top I recommend 2 x 6 oz that cover the entire surface, or even think about using some of that biaxial cabron/glass weave with the carbon fibres at about 20mm intervals on 45 degree angles (again Shapers carry this on their website, have a look and you will see what im talking about and that it will significantly increase dent resistance without increasing longitudinal flex of the board).
- Filler/hot coat each side. Use epoxy again.
- Install fins. I have used a system called "Pro Box" because the installation kit was much cheaper than future. They accept FCS 2 tab fins and are reasonably strong.
- Wax up and go ride.
If you do the machine shaping method, your outlay for the tools and general bits and pieces of shaping equipment will be much less. Some people say its less fun, but I think its more fun to ride a board that is symmetrical and has smooth curves.
Thank you so much!
In my head I had the idea of using a standard PU core and normal resin (not epoxy). With a 6 oz on the bottom and two layers on the top. Ill look at adding extra glass on the bottom.
I'll also look into epoxy resin, as I really don't know much about it. I just use normal resin from bunnings.
As far as working with these chemicals, what do you lads use as breathing masks? Is using epoxy more toxic?
When glassing do you glass the top first or the bottom, just thinking if its better to do it one way or the other, as the glass will overlap on the rails.
Cheers all, much appreciated.
Select to expand quoteUnderoath said..
Thank you so much!
In my head I had the idea of using a standard PU core and normal resin (not epoxy). With a 6 oz on the bottom and two layers on the top. Ill look at adding extra glass on the bottom.
I'll also look into epoxy resin, as I really don't know much about it. I just use normal resin from bunnings.
As far as working with these chemicals, what do you lads use as breathing masks? Is using epoxy more toxic?
When glassing do you glass the top first or the bottom, just thinking if its better to do it one way or the other, as the glass will overlap on the rails.
Cheers all, much appreciated.
Yeah spot on.
However, assuming you've understood laminating procedures and preparation, you pour the resin over the top of the fibreglass and squeegy it top to bottom. Do not squeegy side to side.
Let the resin run out the sides. It doesn't matter but make sure the resin has covered all of the top and all of the sides (3mm or what ever thickness your board is).
Some guys prefer to also go under the other side a bit with the squeegy to create overlaps. But if you do, just cut sections into the fibre glass along the edge, so it's easier to overlap and not have any folds underneath.
When all the fibreglass looks invisible, allow to dry and do the same on the other side.
Then sandpaper and work it from there.
UO,
I have no advice to give or board making ability - one request please for the gumbies (like me) out there - a step by step photo album of your progress - it's always great to watch someone else's progress.
good luck with it
Juddy
EDIT: photo chronology something like this - cause I like to watch:
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/SUP/LOW-PRESSURE-182-unlimited-2/
Juddy- I'm off to Airlie Beach next month for a holiday with the misses.
Ill start it when im back.
Any $$dollars$$ missing from the daily account and I'll be bound to loose my man hood.
Select to expand quoteUnderoath said..
Thank you so much!
In my head I had the idea of using a standard PU core and normal resin (not epoxy). With a 6 oz on the bottom and two layers on the top. Ill look at adding extra glass on the bottom.
I'll also look into epoxy resin, as I really don't know much about it. I just use normal resin from bunnings.
As far as working with these chemicals, what do you lads use as breathing masks? Is using epoxy more toxic?
When glassing do you glass the top first or the bottom, just thinking if its better to do it one way or the other, as the glass will overlap on the rails.
Cheers all, much appreciated.
I'd go epoxy mate. You have longer working time and less fumes. Im not sure what is more toxic out of polyester and epoxy but im pretty sure neither are good for you and at the very lease I wear long sleeves, gloves, eye protection and a respirator. Also if youre going to invest the time and money in the rest of the board, the extra outlay for epoxy is easily justified.
I glass top first and wrap the bottom alyer of glass half way around and the outer layer the whole way onto the bottom so that it extends about 25mm onto the bottom of the board on the flat section. If you do the top first, and then gwrap the bottom laminate over the edge you can hide any imperfections and they are less likely to be a source of turbulence and slow you down when using the board.
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Kozzie, nice share, the hardest part imo in making a board is the rails,
agreed epoxy, much easier to work with but I believe it Is more toxic than poly resin. Which either way you go, follow the mixing instructions and take into consideration the ambient temperature, the first board I made the resin went off halfway while laminating the bottom deck, I was running around sweating bullets and had to do a lot of rework to fix it. My second board came out perfect except I used a reject blank and creased it on my first wave.
My 3rd board I got it close tolerance machined and had to complete the rails and tail. It was a 7" foot mini mal which I made for my wife, still got it, the glassineg came out beautiful but I cocked up on the paint job, sprayed on some black pin stripes and it bled a bit, in my wisdom I tried to clean up the lines with a texter and when I glassed it, it bled even more.
You can buy close tolerance blanks which makes life a bit easier and you don't have plane so much away.
You will get great satisfaction from it either way you go, stoked even if you cock it up royally, kind of.
Cheers
Rich
Has anyone done design only and fully outsourced the shaping and glassing?
1. Design on computer
2. Machine shaped and shipped
3. Finish by hand yourself
4. Glassed by local glasser/shaper
Select to expand quotebene313 said..
Has anyone done design only and fully outsourced the shaping and glassing?
1. Design on computer
2. Machine shaped and shipped
3. Finish by hand yourself
4. Glassed by local glasser/shaper
Where in WA can you get a blank machined bene?
Select to expand quotebene313 said..
Has anyone done design only and fully outsourced the shaping and glassing?
1. Design on computer
2. Machine shaped and shipped
3. Finish by hand yourself
4. Glassed by local glasser/shaper
You can go to Colin Earl Osbourne Park, buy a blank which is almost 99% true to the final shape, you can finish it off with sand paper, they can get you in touch with a guy in Lano who will glass it for you, theres a hugh variety of shapes and sizes all ready off the shelf, most builders just skim the blanks these days,cut a few channels, maybe take a few mm of the rail here and there.
Dont mess with Epoxy on the first board, its too expensive, if you need more time, use solares, which doesnt go off untill you shift the board out into the sun.
Working with poly styrene blanks requires a whole diffrent skill level, and you will have to get it totaly water tight, which you think it is untill in the water the first time.........
Select to expand quotebene313 said..
Any backyard guys here using UV cure?
Yes I have used it, great for Lam but don't touch it with filler. I've asked a couple of times about getting glassing done but every time cost has prevented me following up
Underoath,
when glassing do bottom first and then top, I generally do both layers at once on the top (not sure if this is good or bad just what I do) and cut the bottom rail lap (first layer) at or just before the rail mid point. I've done a couple of boards for kiting now and would just go with the single 6oz laminate on the bottom. Everyone has their preferences but that's mine. Find some vids (youtube or buy one of the glassing materclass ones from shapers etc. as there's heaps of things in there that will save you lots of trouble).
there seems to be a bit of a market going on at moment after talking to a buddy mine we might start up a shapeing school in september just near maroochydore underoath if you can wait that long. just to many dirty nappys at his joint right now for it sadly
Select to expand quoteDARTH said..bene313 said..
Has anyone done design only and fully outsourced the shaping and glassing?
1. Design on computer
2. Machine shaped and shipped
3. Finish by hand yourself
4. Glassed by local glasser/shaper
Where in WA can you get a blank machined bene?
Not sure doggie, was thinking those east coast providers who provide shipping. Maybe a local shaper with a machine would do it.
Does CE use a machine or does he bring in these 99% completed blanks?
Select to expand quotebene313 said..DARTH said..bene313 said..
Has anyone done design only and fully outsourced the shaping and glassing?
1. Design on computer
2. Machine shaped and shipped
3. Finish by hand yourself
4. Glassed by local glasser/shaper
Where in WA can you get a blank machined bene?
Not sure doggie, was thinking those east coast providers who provide shipping. Maybe a local shaper with a machine would do it.
Does CE use a machine or does he bring in these 99% completed blanks?
No he brings his in I believe, there are machines around (mostly around dunsborough, Al Bean I believe has one, possibly Yahoo too) I have heard rumours of one coming around perth the problem is having people willing to do cuts or having capacity on the machine.
Select to expand quoteblueprint said..bene313 said..DARTH said..bene313 said..
Has anyone done design only and fully outsourced the shaping and glassing?
1. Design on computer
2. Machine shaped and shipped
3. Finish by hand yourself
4. Glassed by local glasser/shaper
Where in WA can you get a blank machined bene?
Not sure doggie, was thinking those east coast providers who provide shipping. Maybe a local shaper with a machine would do it.
Does CE use a machine or does he bring in these 99% completed blanks?
No he brings his in I believe, there are machines around (mostly around dunsborough, Al Bean I believe has one, possibly Yahoo too) I have heard rumours of one coming around perth the problem is having people willing to do cuts or having capacity on the machine.
I wondered where he gets his from (CE) I asked him once and he got a bit upset that I wanted to have a crack at doing my own.
Wade in Lancelin now has a shaping machine but im not sure if he is doing one offs for the public. Seeing your in QLD that probably doesn't help, but there is usually a shaper in all the big cities with a machine. If there is anyone in WA starting out with vacuum laminated epoxy boards I have a vacuum pump with switch and reservoir I would like to move on. Free. Needs one small repair.
Select to expand quoteUnderoath said..
Why are all shaping rooms blue?
For shadows.
