This isn't a rant, just a heads up.
In the past 12 months I have worn away 3 trim lines for my kite bar.
I use the same bar for all my kites so its gets about 2 uses a week.
I have improved the bar by removing/sanding back all edges that could cause wear on the trim lines.
However the lines still erode quite quickly, the typical spot is just after the stitching where the outer layer gets eaten away. (~About 15cms from the chicken loop)
If trim lines where replaceable at a reasonable cost, this wouldn't be an issue. Trim lines are now hitting the $50 dollar mark for a 1.6m length of 4mm Dyneema. (Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene).
This isn't a crack at the shops, I have priced the same products at numerous shops across Australia. It's all the same for this branded trim line.
So after some research I have found an Australian online retiler, who can delivered 4mm Dyneema for $2.70per meter. ($27 for 10m)
There is also a terrific app on the itunes store where you can learn the correct way to splice hollow Dyneema. The apps called Grog Knots.
The knot I have used is a Brummel knot. This knot in previous tests will last survive well past a "rated" load for a line.
Total cost for a trim line is now less than $4.50.
why don't you sleeve the trim line with rubber tube like some of the other bars? They last years. Thanks for the app, splicing is a great art to have down.
The Brummel lock splice is a good option if you don't want to sew anything. Just my opinion but I think a sewn bury splice is the better option, just make sure the bury is long enough. I think 72 diameters is the recommended length.
Its a joke what they charge.. I bought a few small splicing needles and make whatever needs replacing.
The standard bury splice on kite gear is held by stabbing it to death - stitching.
The Brummel splice does not need stitching at all, locks solid you can tow a car ...
PU tube over depower lines with Ocean Rodeos trick sliding stopper is the go 
Select to expand quotedafish said..
why don't you sleeve the trim line with rubber tube like some of the other bars? They last years. Thanks for the app, splicing is a great art to have down.
Yep, I need to look into this. I do have some clear PU tube at home somewhere.
Select to expand quotestrydz said..
The Brummel lock splice is a good option if you don't want to sew anything. Just my opinion but I think a sewn bury splice is the better option, just make sure the bury is long enough. I think 72 diameters is the recommended length.
A sewn bury splice would make it much easier to fit the line back into the chicken loop. (Skinner)
The Brummel splice took some serious work. Got there in the end.
Yep, I wasn't happy either when the price literally doubled for those mainlines...
We also have the grey spectra which we order from Ozone in 3mm (leaders) and 5mm (mainline) $4.50 and $7.50 per/m respectively.
I have made a couple for customers but it is very time consuming! So I now also recommend that app, it's a good skill to learn.
I used that knot to make up 5th lines (part that goes through bar) for my torches - easy as... 1/3 of the price
bring back the art of making up your own bar/limes and boycott those companies that try and make components proprietary by design.
#makekiteboardingaffordableagain
anyone seen 2017 pricing? omfg kiteboarding equipment has exclusively become toys for doctors these day
Mind u there is switch and takoon... seem a very tight risky market though to invest in direct marketing/sales - interesting to see how long they last - very interesting market.
I snapped min a few weeks back. Replaced it with windsurfing line. Works well, but very ruff on the fingers
Select to expand quoteUnderoath said..
This isn't a rant, just a heads up.
In the past 12 months I have worn away 3 trim lines for my kite bar.
I use the same bar for all my kites so its gets about 2 uses a week.
I have improved the bar by removing/sanding back all edges that could cause wear on the trim lines.
However the lines still erode quite quickly, the typical spot is just after the stitching where the outer layer gets eaten away. (~About 15cms from the chicken loop)
If trim lines where replaceable at a reasonable cost, this wouldn't be an issue. Trim lines are now hitting the $50 dollar mark for a 1.6m length of 4mm Dyneema. (Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene).
This isn't a crack at the shops, I have priced the same products at numerous shops across Australia. It's all the same for this branded trim line.
So after some research I have found an Australian online retiler, who can delivered 4mm Dyneema for $2.70per meter. ($27 for 10m)
There is also a terrific app on the itunes store where you can learn the correct way to splice hollow Dyneema. The apps called Grog Knots.
The knot I have used is a Brummel knot. This knot in previous tests will last survive well past a "rated" load for a line.
Total cost for a trim line is now less than $4.50.
Nice one. The mark-up on so much kiting gear is ludicrous. The pumps scam is a classic - paying $50 for a pump with a company logo on it at a kite store, when you can get the same pump, probably made in the same factory, for $15-20 at a camping store.
Well done for making your own line. ;-)
The Brummel is good but I agree that the long bury is the easiest way to go + imo it's better if you want an precise length. Stitch it with some whipping twine & it's not going anywhere.
I've made a couple of trim lines & a set of pigtails, so far.
Select to expand quoteSaveTheWhales said..
The standard bury splice on kite gear is held by stabbing it to death - stitching.
The stitching only holds it in place when there is no tension on it. When it's loaded up, the outside grips down in the centre part of the splice, holding it in place.
Think chinese finger trap - the harder you pull, the tighter it gets.
If you run a plastic outer sheath, you can get away with a much thinner centre line, as it has no wear on it from the bar. It also helps to wash out (from the bottom up) the line, to try and get the sand out of it, as this is what will slowly wear the line in the plastic tube.
Stitching with whipping twine is also a good idea if you cannot get the recommended 72 x diameter, for length/size limitations.
I stitch all my work for peice of mind.
As sibbo said, the stitch is only a lock stitch to stop the splice from pulling out when not under tension. Whipping twine is ok but can be a pain to get through the eye of a small needle, I just use 20lb platypus fishing braid.
Yeh I need this I think. My hands are getting shredded. What was the exact name of this tube so I can orber it online?
Aussie tight arses
you don't winge about how much grog costs
Oh my carton lasted 3 days and it cost me $50
this is inexcusable
Kiting is worth every cent
You are looking at it wrong Cauncy,
You can have an equivalent kiting part for 10% of the original cost, then spend the 90% of saving on additional beer.
BTW, does a carton only last you 3 days? I'm a lightweight, a 6 pack will last me two weeks.
I fly North kites and have had to replace at least 3 or 4 de-power lines over the years. Have always used this line from Binks Marine ans seems to wear better than the original. Also have tried heavy duty heat shrink plastic tubing from Jaycars over the line and it seems to be just as good as rubber tubing.
binksmarine.com.au/store/ropes/spectra-dynex-vectran/dynex-75-5mm-hrl-150
www.jaycar.com.au/10mm-green-heatshrink-tubing/p/WH5515
$2.60-4.04 per metre. Cheaper if you buy 10m lengths.
ropegalore.com.au/3mm-4mm-dyneema-ropes-r/
Re: Plastic tube, I recently replaced some 7 year old depower line that was inside plastic tube. The only visible wear is where it goes around the steel shackles at the end. The line itself looked to be in perfect condition.
In the early days I tried DIY plastic tubing and it wore out in no time. I have not investigated to find out exactly what tubing works. I just re-use the tube that came with the bar.
that is a fine looking bar setup Toppleover. Looks similar to Greg Drexlers bar. Is there any way to trim the kite though? Just wondering not so much about being over powered, but light wind days when you have to trim the kite a bit to keep from stalling.Select to expand quotetoppleover said..
The Brummel is good but I agree that the long bury is the easiest way to go + imo it's better if you want an precise length. Stitch it with some whipping twine & it's not going anywhere.
I've made a couple of trim lines & a set of pigtails, so far.
Select to expand quotecauncy said..
Aussie tight arses
you don't winge about how much grog costs
Oh my carton lasted 3 days and it cost me $50
this is inexcusable
Kiting is worth every cent
slow three days mate!
Select to expand quotedafish said..
that is a fine looking bar setup Toppleover. Looks similar to Greg Drexlers bar. Is there any way to trim the kite though? Just wondering not so much about being over powered, but light wind days when you have to trim the kite a bit to keep from stalling.toppleover said..
The Brummel is good but I agree that the long bury is the easiest way to go + imo it's better if you want an precise length. Stitch it with some whipping twine & it's not going anywhere.
I've made a couple of trim lines & a set of pigtails, so far.
Hi dafish,
Like with most kites, I have 3 knots under the floats on the bar end & also 3 knots up on the pigtails on the steering lines at the kite end. But in saying that, I pretty much just rig at full power - unless it's nukeing.
Thought I'd miss the trim cleat but have not so far, I think this is because the throw is so much longer now - compared to the original.
Yes, copied Greg's design - it's so simple & just works.
Hi toppleover,
what kites are you riding? Love the simple bar..
how adaptable do you find it brand to brand?
Select to expand quotevespa said..
Hi toppleover,
what kites are you riding? Love the simple bar..
how adaptable do you find it brand to brand?
I'm using Switch Element 5 kites ATM, have not tried my bar on any other kites yet but pretty sure it would work ok.
My bar is a direct copy of the BRM but with a stopper ball set so I can just reach the bar. I found when I owned a BRM Cloud kite, whenever you let go of the bar it was a pita to get hold of it again. Also because the Clouds are so light they are very stable at the zenith, 3 Strutt kites are heavier & with increased throw can Hindenburg, so imo the stopper reduces the chance of this happening.
Green ball is push away for front line release.
Red ball is pull for full release.
No additional leash is required.
I would not recommend this set up for beginners, as it's very easy to become detached from your kite. But for experienced kiters, this is imo the quickest way to dump your gear - if needed.
Select to expand quotetoppleover said..
when I owned a BRM Cloud kite
Did you get rid of the cloud? If you did, what didn't you like about the kite in the surf?
Select to expand quotecauncy said..
Aussie tight arses
you don't winge about how much grog costs
Oh my carton lasted 3 days and it cost me $50
this is inexcusable
Kiting is worth every cent
... 3 days,,,,, I wish 
Select to expand quoteSibboV1 said..toppleover said..
when I owned a BRM Cloud kite
Did you get rid of the cloud? If you did, what didn't you like about the kite in the surf?
Yes had a 12m C2, sold it because I couldn't relaunch it & got sick of swimming in.
In hindsight, I probably should have given it more time.
Select to expand quotetoppleover said..SibboV1 said..toppleover said..
when I owned a BRM Cloud kite
Did you get rid of the cloud? If you did, what didn't you like about the kite in the surf?
Yes had a 12m C2, sold it because I couldn't relaunch it & got sick of swimming in.
In hindsight, I probably should have given it more time.
Did you try reverse launching it? The kite is a little trickier to relaunch than a standard kite, it needs to sit deeper and with slack it rolls over and up. Once you do it a few times you know where it's spot is. When it's super light I reverse launch it. I guess though in hard crash when water washes over the kite it takes time to shake it. Like all designs, you have to sacrifice something to have it so light and nimble. Curious to see G.D. fly his new D design, which looks even more promising and easier relaunch due to more curve on the wing tip.
